★★★ Yankee Clipper 5.12a

Grade context: US
Length: 460m
Bolts: 12
Pitches: 15
Ascents: 56

Rock: Loose rock on P3 or P4

There is a loose rock somewhere on P3 or P4, about the size of 4 or more housebricks. It's just balancing in a small ledge. Both climbers touched it and it almost fell. Left side of route.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago

1 5.8

2 5.8

3 5.10b

4 5.8

5 5.9

6 5.10b

7 5.9

8 5.9

9 Class 3

10 5.10b

11 5.9

12 5.9

13 5.8

14 5.10b

15 5.12a

description

The summit register is at the end of pitch 13, most people skip the last two pitches, and, especially, the last pitch. Bring a 70m rope and 24 draws if linking pitches. Fixed draws on P7 for rappelling the traversing pitch.

Route history

	First ascent: Magic Ed, Tami & Ismael Garza

Warnings

29 Oct 2020	Warning Rock: Loose rock on P3 or P4

Location

Lat/Lon: 25.94855, -100.47695

Grade citation

5.8,5.8+,5.10b,5.8+,5.9,5.10b,5.9,5.9,3rd,5.10b,5.9+,5.9,5.8,5.10b,5.12a	Assigned grade
5.10b	★★michael batchelor
5.10b [5.10a - 5.10c] --	grAId
5.8, 5.8, 5.10b, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10b, 5.9, 5.9, 3rd, 5.10b, 5.9, 5.9, 5.8, 5.10b, 5.12a ***	★★★David Gibbs

ethic

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

inherited from Nuevo León

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 77 from 36 ratings.

Difficulty - 5.12a

Suggested Grade

5.12a

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight	19	19
Red point	6	6
Tick	15	15
Attempt	2	2

Comment keywords

fall sharp technical hands easy dihedral hard crux fun great good amazing super classic nice

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

EPC Climbing: A Climber's Guide to El Potrero Chico

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Date: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Buy

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★★★ Yankee Clipper 5.12a - Yankee Clipper

Thu 8 Jun

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