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Santo Bohorquez Wall

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Description

This wall offers climbing on tufas and crimps and stays in teh sahde most of the day. The sun only arrives very late in the afternoon. The rock quality at the bottom is not the best but some of the routes are still good. Partially overgrown by vines.

Approach

Continue for about 500 meters passed the main wall and take a faint trail to the left to a grey wall with tufas.

Ethic inherited from El Salto; C.d.G.

Climbing around Cienega de Gonzalez developed over many years and was and is being carried out by many different developers. Many of them local Mexicans but also loads of foreigners that pass through, bolt and "disappear". The information about climbs in this area is thus incomplete in the sense of route names, developers, first ascensionists and sometimes even grades. Please contribute by entering your grade contributions (Edit Route, enter grade, safe) and by adding new routes and information whenever you encounter it. The climbing community will be thankful!

History

History timeline chart

It took 5 days of cleaning, 10 days of anti-biotics and 2 shots of cortizon to get this wall up and the 300+ pounds of vines off the rock and away from the base. Nathan and Ulric both got massive infections from the vines, Ulric mostly in the right eye. Both learned how to shoot themselves with syringes. The wall is now clean and offers the steepest tufa ridden and coolest moderates in El Salto. Mike would be proud.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

FA: Bruno Hache, 2014

Starts right of the tree with a "porous" tufa and finishes in an open dihedral.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

FA: Marco Lazure, 2014

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

FA: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

Start just right of Easyrider and follow the featured growth and chosy looking blocks up and right. Lean into the dihedral and get ready for the crux, and follow more tufas up towards the looming block overhead. Its bomber. Another easy 10 meters to the anchors.

Set: Ulric Rousseau & Nathan, 2014

FA: Ulric Rousseau & Nathan, 2014

Hard face and dihedral to an even harder roof. Pulling the roof is the crux.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

Slab climb and angle to the left towards the roof. Pull the overhang after the rest, figure out the one move to get you out of the overhang and saddle up for the long headwall and slab.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

FA: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

Climb the slab left of the looming block. follow laybacks and underclings to the bulge below the tufa roof. Pull the roof and hit the easy slab to the anchors.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

FA: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

Climb the tufa slab right of the looming block up steeper pulls. Superbe. Easy.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

FA: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

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Tue 13 Jun
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