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Гравитация - Миф

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 8

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Lechinkaj

The Crag is easily driven to on most days by car although in winter and spring the road can become impassable by car requiring a four wheel drive. It's located 5 kilometers past the village of Lechenky on a well traveled dead end gravel road. The gravel road is 8 kilometers long and you'll know when you get to the crag because you'll narrow into a small valley with the wall 40 meters to your right. In Russia there are very few places in the woods, hills or mountains that are off limits due to private property and those that there are tend to be well marked.

Ethic inherited from Lechinkaj

The biggest thing we can ask is that you keep the trash picked up and use common sense when finding a place to use the bathroom. Bolting is best left to those who have the experience and equipment but help in the process is always appreciated. Chalk when needed but use sparingly if possible.

Routes

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An fun but relatively easy route for the whole family. The start is the hardest part of the climb and requires you to use a small crack system and some stemming to get up to the next hold. From that point it's just big holds and pulling yourself up to the chains.

Set: jetson, 2011

FA: jetson, 2011

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2021

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2021

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2021

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2020

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2020

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2020

Set: Christopher Langhout, 2020

Set: Christopher Langhout, 2020

Set: Christopher Langhout, 2020

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2021

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2021

Set: Адам Казанчев, 2021

This route is just to the left of the Fridge but only has top rope access. It's a nice route but is seldom climbed since there are other more popular routes near by. This route uses many different types of climbing technique and keeps the climber tucked away inside a smooth seam of rocks which cuts down on most beginners fear of heights.

Set: Mark Scott & Jetson, 2012

FA: Mark Scott, 2012

A great route with many different types of climbing all rolled into one route. You start off on a slab with good cracks and pockets then go into a stemming section that has just enough incline to make you feel the pull. Next you pull a little slopper section and then back into a stem. During it all you feel very little exposure since you're in a small seam much of the time. It's well protected but has a little reach to the first bolt. This route can be set from the top but it's best done from lead as the route to the top is hard to find and tricky to get into.

FA: Mark Scott, 2014

Fun route for all who enjoy the feeling of being squeezed into a jello mold. It has tons of good holds a keeps you inside a rock seam much of the time so exposure is at a minimum. The constrictive shape of the rocks makes for some interesting climbing and requires you to be moldable. It’s fun for the whole family. This route is not yet bolted for lead and must be set up from the top. I usually lead The Fridge and then set up the 10 Commandments. They are only about 10 meters apart with this one being just to the right of The Fridge.

FA: jetson, 2013

This route is a great, yet short off width which also has many face holds although they are small. It's located in a great spot that has full light but gentle heat from the sun and you feel like you're in Jurassic Park. We are still projecting this route but it is sure to be a classic when it's ready to go.

Set: jetson, 26 Jun 2015

FA: Adam K, 15 Oct 2015

A short climb that is half crack and half small face pockets. The crack is easily climbed without the use to the face but if your not a crack climber then the pockets will help make this climb a success. It's located in a great spot for summer climbing since it's well shaded and tucked away between many different large rocks that help to keep it cool.

Set: Akmed, 11 Jun 2015

FA: Zalina, 11 Jun 2015

Fun route full of wacos to choose from. You can make the route much harder by only using the passive wacos but most opt for the ever present waco jug that can be found everywhere. This route is located just to the left of one of the best lookout points in the valley, place we call, "The Apartment".

Set: jetson, 12 May 2015

FA: Adam, 12 May 2015

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