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Oliana Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ben Jenga Jakob Schubert Matt Pascoe carmen@laidbackplaces Jake Forker Martina Demmel Melwin Quacke Adam Ondra

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Oliana 89 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.081451, 1.271870

where to stay

====Sponsored Entry====

Apartamento bien ubicado y equipado para 4-6 personas en Peramola. St.Honorat-Contrafort de Rumbau.

Reservations on AirBnB

Ubicación: Frederic Ribó 15, 25790 Peramola

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1.1. Sant Honorat 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 42.080915, 1.268527

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Núria 6a Sport 220m, 6, 44
2 Aresta Idílica

Agulla dels Tres Ponts. Spectacular aerial rappelling on the way back

6a Mixed trad 160m, 6, 19
3 Retiro Espiritual

Set: 2005

Sport 210m, 6

1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau 86 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.077620, 1.287141

description

The main and mega cliff of the area, an awesomely steep barrel-shaped wall.Winter crag as it is sunny from the morning until almost the end of the day.

approach

First one need to arrive in a hotel called Hotel Restaurant Can Boix De Peramola. Just before the entrance of the hotel, there is a dirty road on the right. Take this road for a bit more of 1km and you will see a small path to go up to the crag on your left. You can also see the crag on your left.The access by walk is 5 min.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tavalón 6b+ Sport 25m
2 El Sardo 6b Sport 25m
3 Chupito de Sake 6a+ Sport 30m
4 Old Moon 6a Sport 35m
5 Figues d'un altre paner 6c+ Sport 32m
6 La Viga del Biga 7b Sport 25m
7 El Calçotet del Bigarret 6c+ Sport 22m
8 Emboscades Panxaquen 7b+ Sport 22m
9 Judici al Process 6a Sport 25m
10 Ketzna 6a+ Sport 30m
11 Bloc Café 7a Sport 30m
12 Entrada per Bloc Cafe sortida per Pitos 6a+ Sport 20m
13 Pitos 6c Sport 20m
14 Entre pitos y flautas

L1: 6c, L2: 6a+

6c Sport 37m, 2
15 Flautas 6b Sport 20m
16 ?? 7a Sport 20m
17 Cabernet 6b+ Sport 15m
18 Burt 6c Sport 18m
19 Reggleton 7c Sport 40m
20 Brut nature 8a Sport 42m
21 Placa Ferdinand 7b Sport 25m
22 Route10 7a Sport 25m
23 Directa al pastellón 7c Sport 25m
24 Pastellón 7b Sport 25m
25 Crimptonite 8b+ Sport 33m
26 T-1 Full Equip 8c Sport 35m
27 China crisis 8b+ Sport 35m
28 Rollito ninja SportProject 35m
29 Mishi 8a Sport 30m
30 Nunca doy un paso atrás R1 7a+ Sport 20m
31 Nunca doy un paso atrás

Set: Dani Andrada

FFA: Domen Škofic, 2 Jan 2015

8c Sport 47m, 2
32 Happy hour 8a Sport 35m
33 Happy Day

FA: Adam Ondra, 10 Feb 2017

9a/a+ Sport 47m, 2
34 Humildes pa casa 8b+ Sport 48m, 2
35 Mind control

Monique Forestier's 2016 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c+/34.

8c+ Sport 45m
36 Humildes pa'Arriba 8a+ Sport 45m
37 Project 1 SportProject
38 Le Blond SportProject 45m
39 La Dura Dura / The Hard Hard

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents
:
  • Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
  • Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

FA: Adam Ondra

Set: Chris Sharma, 2009

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2013

9b+ Sport 50m
40 Duele la realidad

Set: Dani Andrada

FA: Ramon Julian, 2010

8c+/9a Sport 50m, 2
41 Chaxi

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

9a+ Sport 45m
42 Chaxiraxi / Shaxi Raxi

Set: Chris Sharma

FFA: Adam Ondra, 2011

9b Sport 45m
43 La realidad duele 7b Sport 20m
44 Fish eye

Monique Forestier's 2012 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 8c/33.

Set: Chris Sharma, 2009

8c Sport 50m
45 American Hustle

FFA: Sam Elias, 2014

Set: Sam Elias & Walker Emerson, 2014

8c Sport 45m
46 Red Bull L1

To the first anchors

7c+ Sport 35m
47 Red Bull L2 8a+ Sport 50m
48 La Marroncita L1

Pitch one of La Marroncita

7a Sport 15m
49 La marroncita

7a first pitch, 8b second.

8b Sport 35m
50 Marroncita Extension 8c+ Sport
51 Gorilas en la niebla 8b+ Sport 50m
52 El gran blau 8c Sport 50m
53 Joe Blau 8c+ Sport
54 Joe Cita

Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

9a Sport
55 Patxitxulo / Patxixulo

A connection of "Joe Blau" and "Papichulo".

FA: Patxi Usobiaga, Mar 2017

9a/a+ Sport
56 La Morenita 8c+ Sport
57 Papichulo

A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

  • Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
  • Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • Sachi Amma
  • Cédric Lachat
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Domen Škofic
  • Magnus Midtbø
  • Mateusz Haladaj
  • Jonathan Siegrist
  • Daniel Woods
  • Matty Hong
  • Piotr Schab
  • Said Belhaj
  • Klemen Bečan
  • Patxi Usobiaga
  • Jon Cardwell
  • Felipe Camargo
  • Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

FFA: Chris Sharma

Set: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2008

9a+ Sport 45m
58 Mamichula

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents
:
  • Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
  • Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

FA: Adam Ondra, 8 Feb 2017

9b Sport
59 Pachamama

Set: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2009

9a+ Sport 50m
60 Joe Mama

Set: Joe Kinder

FA: Klemen Bečan, 1 Mar 2016

9a+ Sport
61 Viejo gudari SportProject 45m
62 Fight or Flight

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

  • Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
  • Adam Ondra
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Sachi Amma
  • Piotr Schab

FA: Chris Sharma

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

9b Sport 35m
63 De picos pardos 8b Sport 45m
64 Project 4 SportProject 45m
65 Blanquita 8c+ Sport 50m
66 Power Inverter

Set: Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2010

9a+ Sport 45m
67 Project 5 SportProject 48m
68 Paper mullat 8c Sport 45m
69 Identification y placa 8c Sport 40m
70 El Gran Morau 8c Sport 35m
71 Soul rebel 7c+ Sport 32m
72 Mon dieu 8a+ Sport 32m
73 ?-?. 8a+ Sport 30m
74 Crunchi 8b Sport 30m
75 ?!? 7c+ Sport 25m
76 Macedónia 7c+ Sport 23m
77 Parabolización 7c Sport 23m
78 Via del Markus 8a Sport 18m
79 Comando borrasca 7b+ Sport 25m
80 Victorinox 7b Sport 25m
81 ?$? 7a+ Sport 22m
82 Baja la moral 7a Sport 20m
83 Baja laboral 6b+ Sport 20m
84 Canto hondo 6a+ Sport 20m
85 Va de canto 6a+ Sport 20m
86 Mínim esfroç 6a+ Sport 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
6a Aresta Idílica Mixed trad 160m, 6, 19 1.1. Sant Honorat
Núria Sport 220m, 6, 44 1.1. Sant Honorat
Judici al Process Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Old Moon Sport 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
6a+ Canto hondo Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Chupito de Sake Sport 30m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Entrada per Bloc Cafe sortida per Pitos Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Ketzna Sport 30m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Mínim esfroç Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Va de canto Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
6b El Sardo Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Flautas Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
6b+ Baja laboral Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Cabernet Sport 15m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Tavalón Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
6c Burt Sport 18m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Entre pitos y flautas Sport 37m, 2 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Pitos Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
6c+ El Calçotet del Bigarret Sport 22m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Figues d'un altre paner Sport 32m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
7a ?? Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Baja la moral Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Bloc Café Sport 30m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
La Marroncita L1 Sport 15m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Route10 Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
7a+ ?$? Sport 22m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Nunca doy un paso atrás R1 Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
7b La Viga del Biga Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
La realidad duele Sport 20m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Pastellón Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Placa Ferdinand Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Victorinox Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
7b+ Comando borrasca Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Emboscades Panxaquen Sport 22m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
7c Directa al pastellón Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Parabolización Sport 23m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Reggleton Sport 40m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
7c+ ?!? Sport 25m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Macedónia Sport 23m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Red Bull L1 Sport 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Soul rebel Sport 32m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
8a Brut nature Sport 42m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Happy hour Sport 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Mishi Sport 30m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Via del Markus Sport 18m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
8a+ ?-?. Sport 30m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Humildes pa'Arriba Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Mon dieu Sport 32m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Red Bull L2 Sport 50m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
8b Crunchi Sport 30m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
De picos pardos Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
La marroncita Sport 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
8b+ China crisis Sport 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Crimptonite Sport 33m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Gorilas en la niebla Sport 50m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Humildes pa casa Sport 48m, 2 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
8c American Hustle Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
El Gran Morau Sport 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
El gran blau Sport 50m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Fish eye Sport 50m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Identification y placa Sport 40m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Nunca doy un paso atrás Sport 47m, 2 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Paper mullat Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
T-1 Full Equip Sport 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
8c+ Blanquita Sport 50m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Joe Blau Sport 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
La Morenita Sport 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Marroncita Extension Sport 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Mind control Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
8c+ to 9a Duele la realidad Sport 50m, 2 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
9a Joe Cita Sport 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
9a/a+ Happy Day Sport 47m, 2 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Patxitxulo Sport 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
9a+ Chaxi Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Joe Mama Sport 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Pachamama Sport 50m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Papichulo Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Power Inverter Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
9b Chaxiraxi Sport 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Fight or Flight Sport 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Mamichula Sport 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
9b+ La Dura Dura Sport 50m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
? Retiro Espiritual Sport 210m, 6 1.1. Sant Honorat
Le Blond SportProject 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Project 1 SportProject 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Project 4 SportProject 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Project 5 SportProject 48m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Rollito ninja SportProject 35m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
Viejo gudari SportProject 45m 1.2. Contrafort de Rumbau
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