Mallorca Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.559651, 2.885229

description

Beautiful limestone climbing on countless larger and smaller crags and deepwater spots.

There are also a number of bouldering spots on the island. They are listed including approach in the (German) PDF guide Boulderführer Mallorca en bloc. More topos and videos on Instagram at @bouldermallorca and @croquismallorca.

For Cala Figuera, a boulder sector on the south-east coast, there exists a local paper topo which can be bought for 10 EUR in Rocodrom Es Cau in Palma.

Hermosa escalada en piedra caliza en innumerables riscos grandes y pequeños y lugares de aguas profundas.

También hay una serie de lugares de boulder en la isla. Se enumeran, incluido el enfoque, en la guía PDF (alemana) Boulderführer Mallorca en bloc. Más topos y videos en Instagram en @bouldermallorca y @croquismallorca.

Para Cala Figuera, un sector de rocas en la costa sureste, existe un topo de papel local que se puede comprar por 10 EUR en Rocodrom Es Cau en Palma.

approach

Various flight connections to Palma de Mallorca. A rental car is recommended.

Varias conexiones aéreas a Palma de Mallorca. Se recomienda un coche de alquiler.

where to stay

As a popular tourist destination, Mallorca boasts a plethora of accommodation sites. However, don't expect to find something without booking in advance: during high-season, crowds of tourists have already occupied most places and during off-season, many hotels close completely.

Booking a finca in the country can be done via the internet for reasonable prices almost in every corner of the island.

Camping is difficult: as there are only one or two official camping sites, and wild camping is tricky (everything is steep, stony, fenced-off or all of these), think twice.

Como destino turístico popular, Mallorca cuenta con una gran cantidad de sitios de alojamiento. Sin embargo, no espere encontrar algo sin reservar con anticipación: durante la temporada alta, la mayoría de los lugares ya están ocupados por multitudes de turistas y durante la temporada baja, muchos hoteles cierran por completo.

La reserva de una finca en el campo se puede hacer a través de Internet a precios razonables en casi todos los rincones de la isla.

Acampar es difícil: como solo hay uno o dos sitios oficiales para acampar, y acampar en la naturaleza es complicado (todo es empinado, pedregoso, cercado o todo eso), piénselo dos veces.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.708149, 2.757771

description

The Serra de Tramuntana (Catalan pronunciation: [ˈsɛrə ðe tɾəmunˈtanə], Spanish: Sierra de Tramontana) is a mountain range running southwest–northeast which forms the northern backbone of the island. It is also the name given to the comarca of the same area. On 27 June 2011, the Tramuntana Range was awarded World Heritage Status by UNESCO as an area of great physical and cultural significance.

The highest peak is the Puig Major, which, at 1,445 metres is the highest mountain in the Balearic Islands. It is closely followed by the Puig de Massanella, which stands at 1,364 metres.

The climate in the Tramuntana Range is significantly wetter than the rest of the island, recording as much as 1507 mm (59.3 inches) of precipitation per year, in comparison with some other parts of the island where annual rainfall is less than 400mm (15 inch). It is also cooler due to the height and a few days of snow are not unusual during winter.

The Serra de Na Burguesa is the southernmost portion of the Tramuntana Range.

Source Wikipedia

access issues

Since 2013 a permit is necessary for access to the nature protection zone of Sierra de Tramuntana. More information at https://www.caib.es/sites/espaisnaturalsprotegits/es/como_solicitar_una_autorizacion-22089/ and since 5/2020, only the online application is possible, not any more the email-based. If you can provide more details about the online process, please edit this text.

Before 5/2020, you could apply by sending the following two signed documents plus a copy of your ID document (driving licence or passport) to the email autoritzacions@dgmambie.caib.es

For climbing area put 'Serra de Tramuntana' and for dates put the duration of your stay.

Article with map.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.551618, 2.371350

description

Mont Port está situado en el suroeste de Mallorca cerca de Port d'Andratx y ofrece dos sectores que son bastante diferentes de la vista sola. Desde el sector Sombra se puede ver un litoral salpicado de casas. En el sector Dragonera ni un solo edificio enturbia la vista. Aquí solo hay naturaleza y mar abierto. En un día despejado se puede ver la isla de Ibiza en el horizonte, y por la tarde el sol baña de rojo mágico la pequeña isla de Sa Dragonera. Impulsa el aire salado del mar contra las rocas y la fricción disminuye.

Los pequeños muros de Mont Port han sido el proyecto más importante de Andrés Morales, más conocido como 'Txolo', en los últimos años. Se había enterado de una roca en el lado este del Mont Port en 2012, con cinco o seis vías perforadas por Toni Riscos tiempo atrás. A primera vista, la roca del actual sector Sombra Txolo no convencía. Solo había vías cortas de unos 15 metros de longitud, pero le motivaba el fácil acceso y la oportunidad de escalar en verano. Se puso a trabajar y agregó casi 30 rutas más. Zyon (6b), Choque de adrenalina (6c+) y Arista Güllich (7c+) son tres de ellas que definitivamente deberías haber escalado. kl-escalada-mallorca-c-esteban-pano-q (jpg) Esteban Lahoz Escalada con vistas: El sector Dragonera con su brillante panorámica.

Pero eso no es todo. El equipo de desarrollo esperaba que también hubiera algunas rocas escondidas al otro lado del Mont Port. La alegría fue igualmente grande cuando descubrieron la cueva y el muro oeste. Su deseo de poder abrir grandes líneas en un entorno de ensueño se hizo realidad. Y con el primer recorrido del Txolo por la cara oeste, nace en 2013 el sector Dragonera.

Hoy en día la zona de escalada del Mont Port está prácticamente desarrollada en su totalidad. Como en todas las zonas cercanas al mar, también existe el problema de la corrosión. Inicialmente, las rutas se roscaron con pernos regulares de 10 mm, pero una vez que se repiten y queda claro dónde se colocan mejor los pernos, se reemplazarán con pernos de titanio. Se lanzará una campaña de crowdfunding para cubrir estos costos.

Por supuesto, no tenemos que agradecer a una sola persona por la nueva área. También estuvieron presentes Carlos Raimundo, Sergi Segui, Raquel Mulet, Alberto Juaneda y amigos de Villena. Finalmente, invito a todos a explorar Mallorca, con sus muchos rincones especiales y zonas de escalada gratificantes. ¡Sube al Mont Port por la tarde hasta que se pone el sol y las rocas brillan de rojo! Los escaladores somos muy afortunados de poder disfrutar de estos lugares y ambientes.

Mont Port is located in the southwest of Mallorca near Port d'Andratx and offers two sectors that are quite different from the view alone. From the Sombra sector you can see a coastline dotted with houses. In the Dragonera sector not a single building clouds the view. Here there is only nature and the open sea. On a clear day you can see the island of Ibiza on the horizon, and in the evening the sun bathes the small island of Sa Dragonera in magical red. It drives the salty sea air against the rocks and the friction decreases.

The small walls of Mont Port have been the most important project of Andrés Morales, better known as 'Txolo', in recent years. He had learned of a rock on the east side of Mont Port in 2012, with five or six routes drilled by Toni Riscos some time ago. At first glance, the rock in today's Sombra Txolo sector was not convincing. There were only short routes of around 15 meters in length, but the easy access and the opportunity to climb in the summer motivated him. He went to work and added almost 30 more routes. Zyon (6b), Choque de adrenalina (6c +) and Arista Güllich (7c +) are three of them that you should definitely have climbed. kl-climbing-mallorca-c-esteban-pano-q (jpg) Esteban Lahoz Climbing with a view: The Dragonera sector with its brilliant panorama.

But that's not all. The development team hoped that there would also be some rocks hidden on the other side of Mont Port. The joy was correspondingly great when they discovered the cave and the west wall. Her desire to be able to open up great lines in a dreamlike environment became reality. And with Txolo's first route on the west face, the Dragonera sector was born in 2013.

Today the Mont Port climbing area is practically completely developed. As in all areas near the sea, there is also the problem of corrosion. The routes were initially tapped with regular 10mm bolts, but once they're all repeated and it's clear where the bolts are best placed, they'll be replaced with titanium bolts. A crowdfunding campaign is to be launched to cover these costs.

Of course, we don't have just one person to thank for the new area. Also present were Carlos Raimundo, Sergi Segui, Raquel Mulet, Alberto Juaneda and friends from Villena. Finally, I invite everyone to explore Mallorca, with its many special corners and rewarding climbing areas. Climb Mont Port in the afternoon until the sun goes down and the rocks glow red! We climbers are extremely lucky to be able to enjoy such places and atmospheres.

approach

(39.555000, 2.371889)

Sector Dragonera: (39.551583, 2.371222)

Sector Sombra: (39.551417, 2.371167)

Desde Palma por la autopista dirección Andratx y continuar por la circunvalación al Port de Andratx. Desde allí, siga las indicaciones hacia el Hotel Mont Port Spa. Justo antes del hotel, gira a la derecha por Carrer Cala de Egos con asfalto amarillo y sigue la carretera hasta el final del asfalto. Estacionar aquí. Desde el parking seguir un camino a la izquierda que discurre aproximadamente paralelo al camino que lleva a Cala de Egos. Después de unos 50 metros llegará a un cruce. El camino de la derecha lleva al sector Dragonera en unos 20 minutos, el camino de la izquierda a la parte alta del sector Sombra (10 minutos).

From Palma on the motorway towards Andratx and continue on the bypass to Port de Andratx. From there, follow the signs to the Hotel Mont Port Spa. Just before the hotel, turn right onto Carrer Cala de Egos with yellow asphalt and follow the road to the end of the asphalt. Park here. From the parking lot follow a path on the left that runs roughly parallel to the path that leads to Cala de Egos. After about 50 meters you will come to a junction. The right path leads to the Dragonera sector in about 20 minutes, the left path to the upper part of the Sombra sector (10 mins).

history

Some background information in DE at outdoor-magazin.com (2018)

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.524365, 2.389304

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.538416, 2.404129

description

Pequeño roquedo soleado sobre el camino de acceso a Cala Blanca.

Small sunny crag above the access road to Cala Blanca.

approach

(39.538524, 2.405168)

(39.538435, 2.404347)

Estacione en la bifurcación de la carretera y camine por un sendero corto y empinado hasta el peñasco ya visible. 1 minuto.

Park at the road fork and walk up a short steep path to the already visible crag. 1min.

Summary:

Deep water soloing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.503457, 2.472933

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.536672, 2.530032

description

El museo es una zona delicada en una propiedad privada, se ruega si queréis ir a escalar allí, ponerse en contacto antes con escaladores locales.

The museum is a sensitive area on private property, please contact local climbers beforehand if you want to go climbing there.

Blog and pictures. Article. Article.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.560654, 2.425655

description

Large and pleasant crag, a must-visit if you are in the south-west of the island. The sectors are very different from each other, both in difficulty and style. Trees at the wall's base give some shadow on warm days (exception: sector 'Colmena'), but the rocks seep badly after rainfall.

access issues

There have been major access issues with the landowners. Sector solarium is now permanently closed for climbing. In the other sectors try to keep a very low profile to avoid the closure of the entire crag.

approach

Follow the Ma-1 from Palma towards Andratx. Just a bit before Andratx, after a hill, a small road sharply exits to the right. Park your car carefully after about 200m - there is significant activity of trucks around the waterwork building, which should not be interfered.

From parking, either follow the large track up the hill behind the trees (sector Sombra) turning left at an old wall (sectors Corral, Colmena) or start using the small track to the left before the fence / gate (sectors Salto, Duck, To Pa Ti, Rigor Mortis). There is a path along the cliffs to change sectors, too.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.572108, 2.451969

description

Bonito peñasco que ofrece una selección bastante variada de estilos de escalada. Lugar tranquilo y resguardado, que puede resultar muy agradable incluso en los días de invierno.

Nice little crag offering a quite varied selection of climbing styles. Calm and sheltered place, which can be very pleasant even at winter days.

approach

(39.571223, 2.453223)

Desde la carretera de Palma a Andratx, tomar la salida hacia Es Capdellà. Después de 3 km, toma una pequeña calle a la izquierda (gran cartel de madera "Itinerari de la Vall Verda") que pronto se convierte en un camino de tierra. Después de aproximadamente 1 km hay un aparcamiento a mano derecha. A pie, siga la carretera durante unos 100 metros hasta que vea una puerta. No cruces la puerta, toma un pequeño camino escondido a través del bosque para llegar a las rocas después de unos pocos metros.

From highway Palma to Andratx, take exit towards Es Capdellà. After 3km, take a small street to the left (big wooden sign "Itinerari de la Vall Verda") that soon turns into a dirt road. After about 1km there is a parking at the right side. By foot, follow the road for about 100 metres until you see a gate. Don't cross the gate, take a small hidden path right through the woods to reach the rocks after few metres.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.586050, 2.460369

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.574771, 2.531314

access issues

As of November 2022, the parking spots are blocked by big rocks and there's a closed gate blocking the access to the crag.

approach

(39.568969, 2.533530)

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.624608, 2.425214

description

Los pernos y anclas de algunas rutas están oxidados. Maravillosa vista, sombreada en los días calurosos.

Bolts and anchors of some routes are rusty. Wonderful view, shady on hot days.

approach

(39.624325, 2.424428)

Park in a lay-by right after the sharp right turn after the 103km marker on Ma-10 towards the coast. Rough path up to the wall between the fences toward the left part of the crag. Or right of the fence is a rough path to the right end of the crag.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.610176, 2.510287

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.619057, 2.508509

description

Beginners' area with many easy problems.

Description and topos on foracorda.com

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.607947, 2.584929

description

This is a small crag located on the royal road from La Vileta to Puigpunyent, within the Son Marill estate. North facing it has shade from 11 o'clock onwards, and the routes are pleasant and quite steep. The best season is spring and autumn, in summer you can also climb but it is hot, and in winter, the wall is usually wet due to the humidity and as it is a north face it is very cold.

A coarse hand-drawn topo can be found here

access issues

In some years, kites nest in the wall. In such cases climbing is prohibited by the Consellería de Medi Ambient from January to July. It is very important that this regulation is respected by everyone!

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.640801, 2.531843

approach

From the street, just walk up and follow the wall for 2min.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.646430, 2.560284

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.667144, 2.563465

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.684703, 2.571941

description

Small crag which is not more than 12 meters high, but due to its proximity to the road and the quality of rock and routes, this is still an interesting venue. Very compact rock with little holds, climbing is mostly dominated by technical slabs and walls.

Well sheltered from north-western winds. Due to its orientation this crag can be quite a sun trap, even though the trees at the base give some shadow.

approach

Very convenient. Various parking possibilities along the street under the crag. From there just walk up the hill and arrive at the crag after just a couple of metres.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.692277, 2.634568

summary

Peña principal, umbría, acceso corto.

Main crag, shady, short approach.

approach

(39.693131, 2.634242)

where to stay

Possible to sleep over on concrete border of water reservoir.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.715814, 2.591334

description

Small slightly overhanging wall with lots of holes; most routes (even the easy ones) are a bit athletic. Shaded for almost the whole day and often a bit humid, so a good place for the hotter days.

approach

Park your car in Port de Valldemossa on the small port car park. From the port car park, walk in the direction you came from, pass a restaurant and after about 100 metres you will see some stairs to the right. Keep going up the stairs until they turn into a path. Follow it for some hundreds of meters until you arrive at a small house. Here take the path that slightly descends and find the wall around the corner. The wall is not visible during the whole approach.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.717365, 2.599672

description

Crag with picturesque views over the mediterrenean sea, offering a nice selection of medium level routes. Steep wall climbing is dominating. Very short access: at sector parking, you can belay from the co-driver seat! At all the roadside routes, beware of cars when belaying!

approach

From Valdemossa take the road to Port de Valdemossa. Shortly after it starts descending, there is a small parking on the right side for ca. 3 cars (39.717522, 2.599056).

summary

West-facing sea cliff with rusty old bolts.

description

Roundabout 10 routes of approximately 15-20m in height. Most bolts look seriously corroded and untrustworthy.

approach

Paid parking at (39.751284, 2.629793). From the parking follow the path down towards Sa Foradada. The cliff will be visible just right of the path.

history

A topo might have been published in "ESCALAR Nº3, Oct 1997"

https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/revistas/escalar/342/

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.694564, 2.673286

summary

Large crag with diverse climbing. Sport and (at least one) trad, single and multi-pitch, shade and sun.

description

Essentially the entrance into a gorge, Sa Gubia boast high walls, an airy ridge, pumping overhangs and some minor buttresses. Easy routes can also be found; the real hard-mover may be a bit bored.

approach

(39.695538, 2.687861)

(39.693541, 2.673580)

Take Ma-11 from Palma towards Sóller. Use the car park immediately after the turnoff to Bunyola. Walk into the narrow road heading West opposite the turnoff (driving is possible, but parking problematic, so leave the car at the main road to avoid trobling the locals). Follow the track for ~800 m until it turns into a path at crossing a (dry) riverbed (39.688836, 2.679273). Walk up this riverbed for 400 m till the entrance of the gorge.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.697940, 2.707656

description

More information (in spanish) and topos: https://www.foracorda.com/es/guias/penyal-de-can-fil

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.698822, 2.719506

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.688643, 2.719404

description

Rockfax 2020: "Access is an extremely sensitive issue in Mallorca. The steep tufas of Ca'n Torrat,... have been lost because of a variety of problems." Listed here. Routes listed at 8a.nu.

approach

Desde Bunyola en dirección Sta. María (PM-201) coger pista a la izquierda en el PK.3.´200 (PM-202). Dejar el coche en el cruce con una pista que sale a la derecha. Continuar a pie.

From Bunyola towards Sta. María (PM-201) take the track to the left at PK.3.´200 (PM-202). Leave the car at the crossroads with a track that goes to the right. Continue on foot.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.802692, 2.690849

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.791748, 2.777080

summary

Small mountain crag with a dozen nice routes and a short approach

description

This nice crag (also called Torella in some guidebooks) is located at rather high altitude. Together with its NW-facing walls this make it a excellent choice on hot days, but may as well be chilly in the wind. Besides the described routes there seem to be some recent projects.

approach

Take C-710 from Sóller towards Lluc. Approx. 10 km after Sóller, just before passing tunnel, there is a viewpoint at the right side of the road. Use the parking left of the road. The climbs can be found 50 - 300 m on the wall above the road.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.807639, 2.792026

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.810074, 2.826581

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.813007, 2.825337

summary

Crag with 60+ steep and long routes, almost no easy stuff.

description

Prominent steep wall downstream the Gorg Blau reservoir's dam. Many steep routes, shady almost all day. Can be a bit noisy due to the traffic on the main road.

approach

Going from Sóller to Lluc/Pollenca (Ma-10) park at the small café at the turn off towards the coast (to Sa Calobra). Opposite the road a gate blocks a gravel road into a gorge towards the foot of the dam of Gorg Blau reservoir. Bypass the gate and walk 200 m into the gorge - the climbing will appear at the left walls.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.777740, 2.814717

Summary:

Sport climbing, Deep water soloing and other styles

Lat / Long: 39.844120, 2.791634

summary

Small crags with few routes in a stunning setting

approach

Between Sóller and Pollenca turn off towards the coast at the road to Sa Calobra. A VERY winding road with stunning views will keep you busy turning the steering weel for 15-20 min (on all accounts, avoid coming or going between 10:00 and 16:00, when the road is often clogged with tourist cars and busses).

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.831874, 2.944453

description

Description and topos on foracorda.com

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.833693, 2.894103

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.899727, 3.019787

description

Muro soleado y protegido con rutas cortas (12-18 m) y el acceso más corto de la isla. Magníficas vistas.

Peña publicada en 2009 la guía 'Mallorca Escalada Deportiva'. Artículo.

Sunny protected wall with shorts routes (12-18m) and the shortest approach on the island. Great views.

Crag published in 2009 guidebook 'Mallorca Escalada Deportiva'. Article.

approach

(39.899177, 3.020270)

Conducir hasta la parte más alta de la urbanización Sa Font, hay un aparcamiento al final de la carretera. El peñasco está a sólo 100 m al oeste. Aproximación más corta a la isla 1min.

Drive to the highest part of the Sa Font development, there is a parking at the end of the road. The crag is just 100m west. Shortest approach on the island 1min.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.917630, 3.083646

description

Descriptipn, pictures and approach. Topo.

approach

(39.913079, 3.084130)

Approach description and map here.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 39.934813, 3.100525

description

Description and topos.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.927203, 3.106286

summary

El 90% de las chapas están oxidadas, le hace falta un buen reequipamiento a todos los sectores.

description

West facing wall of the Penta del Migdia, above Polenca at the start of the cap formentor. Slab climbing and great views.

approach

Park at carpark of the viewpoint Colomer. Follow a path parallel to an old pipeline into direction south west until you reach an old sign post. Head right (west) and follow the stonemans until you reach the edge of the wall next to 'Cara Norte'. Scramble down to the left. This part of the approach is quite dangerous and may be secured by rappelling. If you decide to rapel you need slings to build an temporary anchor or leave some other trad gear. At the bottom of the wall to the sectors.

where to stay

Polenca offers plenty of accommodation.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.930744, 3.111952

description

Northwest facing wall below the ridge walk to the popular and stunning Mirador Colomer. If you walk to the view point platform you may find lots of padlocks locked to the top bolts of some climbing routes. The views are breathtaking.

Published in 2015 guidebook, p. 101. Topo looks like abseiling and climb back.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.948183, 3.174475

description

Gran pared sombría con 2 sectores deportivos, buenos pernos pegados, roca naturalmente lisa.

Shady huge wall with 2 sport sectors, good glued bolts, naturally smooth rock.

approach

(39.948197, 3.171592)

(39.948288, 3.174509)

Park at the side of the road, the old big parking is blocked (2022). The path to the obvious crag starts here (39.948814, 3.173036). See also map.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.952165, 3.184491

description

Topo.

approach

Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the village along the coast. Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag 100m after the tunnel.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.564290, 2.672455

description

Palma (/ˈpɑːlmə/ or /ˈpɑːmə/, Catalan: [ˈpalmə], Spanish: [ˈpalma]), often called Palma de Mallorca, is the capital and largest city of the autonomous community of the Balearic Islands. It is situated on the south coast of Majorca on the Bay of Palma. The Cabrera Archipelago, though widely separated from Palma proper, is administratively considered part of the municipality. Palma de Mallorca Airport serves over 22 million passengers each year.

Source Wikipedia

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.545125, 2.619314

access issues

No hay.

approach

Desde el parking bajar hacia el mar. El sector de travesías de bloque está bajando a la derecha, y los de Psicoblock bajando a la izquierda.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.551019, 2.586906

description

Pequeño peñasco cerca de Palma. No demasiado impresionante, pero presenta algunas rutas agradables con calificaciones bajas. Sun-trap, por lo que es mejor evitarlo en los días cálidos, pero es perfecto para las visitas de invierno. El ruido de la carretera cercana puede resultar molesto para algunos.

Small crag close to Palma. Not overly impressive, but featuring some nice routes with low grades. Sun-trap, so better avoid on warm days, but perfect for winter visits. The noise of the nearby highway might be annoying for some.

approach

(39.549586, 2.589175)

En Ca's Català, aparca tu coche al final de la "Carrer del Barranc" donde hace un giro de 180°. Suba las escaleras allí, gire a la izquierda al final y siga el camino grande durante unos 100 m hasta un pequeño camino de acceso a la izquierda cuesta abajo.

In Ca's Català, park your car at the end of "Carrer del Barranc" where it makes a 180° turn. Climb the stairs there, turn left at their end and follow the large path for about 100m to a small access path left down the hill.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.558182, 2.582466

description

Un peñasco pequeño pero agradable situado sobre Palma. Amplia vista sobre la ciudad y el Mediterráneo más allá.

A small but pleasant crag situated above Palma. Extensive view over the city and the Med beyond.

approach

(39.554180, 2.586590)

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.602689, 2.602585

summary

Nice little peaceful crag which is the whole day in the sun. All routes are fresh bolted, unfortunately poorly executed.

description

Sunny peaceful crag with lots of sun. Mainly pleasent routes between 10 - 20 m. The bolting is poorly executed. Many bolts are not screwed tightly or are not drilled deep enough. The threads stick out too far. In two routes scaffolding anchors were used which are not recommended for climbing. The surrounding and the climbing are great, but pay attention to the bolts and anchors.

approach

Leave the car near the cementery of La Vileta (GPS: 39.600104,2.602726), crag at GPS: 39.602731, 2.602500

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.470571, 2.499416

summary

Fantásticas vistas y gran escalada se pueden encontrar aquí. Sin embargo, para visitas repetidas, debe escalar al menos 7a o incluso mejor. Con su orientación sur y el hecho de que las cuevas están muy bien resguardadas del viento, esta zona se volverá bastante calurosa. ¡Incluso en invierno!

Fantastic views and great climbing can be found here. However for repeat visits you need to climb at least 7a or even better.

With its south facing aspect and the fact that the caves are very well sheltered from the wind this area will get pretty hot. Even in Winter!

description

Más de 60 rutas se reparten entre dos cuevas más grandes y dos zonas intermedias. Solo seis de ellos tienen 6a o menos y la mayoría tienen al menos 7a y hasta 8c.

El estilo de escalada es en su mayoría muy sobresaliente (con largos tramos de techos casi horizontales en las dos cuevas) en presas bastante buenas. Puedes llamar a la escalada aquí "carnosa" o física.

Configuración sabia, p. mirando hacia el océano y cerrado a las vistas de los transeúntes, el área es similar a los riscos de la costa este.

Los pernos y los adhesivos están todos en muy buen estado y con una distancia razonable entre sí.

More than 60 routes are spread between two larger caves and two areas in between. Only six of those are 6a and below and most are at least 7a and up to 8c.

The style of climbing is mostly very overhanging (with long stretches of near horizontal roofs in the two caves) on fairly good holds. You can call the climbing here „meaty“ or physical.

Setting wise, e.g. looking out onto the ocean and closed off from views by passersby, the area is similar to the east coast crags.

The bolts and glue ins are all in very good shape and with reasonable distance to each other.

Article. Blog with photos and topo. Blog with photos. German description with topo (photo number 2).

access issues

Parte del área es utilizada por los militares y oficialmente no se permite la entrada de personas; sin embargo, a nadie parece importarle.

Part of the area is used by the military and officially people are not allowed to enter - nobody seems to care however.

approach

(39.472453, 2.510603)

(39.471312, 2.498463)

A la peña se puede acceder tanto desde el poblado de elToro como desde la zona de la playa de Portals Vells. Desde cualquier lado hay una caminata de unos 30 minutos antes de llegar a las cuevas por un pequeño búnker a través de unos pocos pasos y un camino bien transitado.

The crag can be approached either from the elToro settlement or from the Portals Vells beach area. From either side it is an about 30 min walk before getting towards the caves by a small bunker via a few steps and a well trodden path.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.605846, 2.655901

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.744294, 2.925039

description

Raiguer is a comarca (county) located in the north-central part of Majorca. It runs parallel to the Serra de Tramuntana district from the town of Marratxí to the town of Sa Pobla. Like the rest of the Majorcan districts, it is only recognized at a geographic level.

Source Wikipedia

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.713508, 2.774529

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.721855, 2.783434

summary

El "sector kiko" está insertado en el "sector chorreras" con las vías mejor descritas ( como están en la guía "oficial").

approach

Existen regulaciones en esta escuela que afectan a los sectores: Castell d'Alaró s'Olivaret, Castell d'Alaró SE, Chorreras, Kiko y Medio https://montanaregulada.org/area/alaro

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.777404, 2.894225

description

There are a handful of more undocumented climbs (some apparently shiny new, some chopped) at the wall above the road north-east of Hairpin Wall. No proper path there, but probably a new sector to come.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.802664, 2.901230

access issues

Since 2013 a permit is necessary for access to the nature protection zone of Sierra de Tramuntana. More information at https://www.caib.es/sites/espaisnaturalsprotegits/es/como_solicitar_una_autorizacion-22089/ and since 5/2020, only the online application is possible, not any more the email-based. If you can provide more details about the online process, please edit this text.

For climbing area put 'Serra de Tramuntana' and for dates put the duration of your stay.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.831667, 3.097892

description

Nice though small crag with great view. First bolts are often missing, but the first moves are mostly easy. The west face will get a lot of sun in the afternoon and offers no shelter.

Warning

Bring a tool to tighten the bolt hangers. Some of them are loose. Most of the bolts and hangers show corrosion so check them before use. Some routes have been re-equipped recently.

approach

(39.832912, 3.096911)

Park right below the crag. From there it is 3 minutes walk only. You reach the crag between North and West Wall.

ethic

It's a dry area so don't smoke and don't make fire. Don't leave litter and tick marks.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.875238, 3.177879

description

Small area with easy, short routes. Shade until early afternoon and a bit more due to the trees.

Published in 2015 guidebook.

approach

Park at Ermita de la Victoria. Follow big path uphill in direction to Atalaia. After about 10 minutes follow a small path, with wooden handrail, to the left directs to Penya Roja. Follow this path for just 20 meters; Crag is then up-hill on the right side.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.766561, 2.871910

description

Pictures.

description

Pla de Mallorca or Es Pla is a region (Catalan: Comarca) and is located in the central part of the island. The plain is between the mountain ranges of the Serra de Tramuntana in the northwest and the Serres de Llevant in the east, interrupted only by smaller mountain ranges. The highest point is the 540-metre-high Table Mountain Puig de Randa at the border to the southern bordering Migjorn.

Source Wikipedia, translated with DeepL

Currently there are no known crags.

Summary:

Deep water soloing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 39.397517, 3.005392

description

Migjorn is a landscape zone (Catalan: Comarca) and is basically the southern continuation of the plain 'Pla de Mallorca'. Despite its rather flat character, the southernmost landscape of Mallorca has an elevation above 500 metres above sea level. The monastery of Santuari de Sant Salvador is located on the 509-metre-high Puig Sant Salvador in the municipality of Felanitx. The mountain is the highest elevation in the southern area of the Serres de Llevant.

Source Wikipedia, translated with DeepL.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.469933, 3.140282

description

Genial para escalar por la tarde a la sombra. La sombra comienza alrededor de la 1:00 p. m., pero puedes llegar a las 2:00 p. m. y todavía tienes mucho tiempo para escalar en verano. Los grados son de 4 a 7a con muchas rutas más fáciles. Una gran característica son las calificaciones escritas en la parte inferior de la mayoría de las subidas. Los pernos tienen estilo de pegamento con algunas de las escaladas más antiguas que usan pernos de expansión. No deberías necesitar más de 12 sorteos. Con los niños OK: El stand está mayormente nivelado y tiene entre 2 y 4 m de ancho, pero los niños pueden caerse del muro de contención que tiene una altura de aproximadamente 3 m.

Great for afternoon climbing in the shade. Shade starts around 1pm but you can get there at 2pm and still have plenty of time to climb in summer. Grades are from 4 to 7a with plenty of easier routes. A great feature is the grades written on the bottom of most climbs. Bolts are glue in style with a few of the older climbs using expansion bolts. You shouldn't need any more than 12 draws. With kids OK: The stand is mostly level and 2-4m wide, but kids could fall off the retaining wall wich is up to app 3m high.

access issues

El enfoque es a través de un edificio abandonado con carteles de "prohibido el paso", pero a nadie parece importarle.

Approach is through an abandoned building with 'no tresspassing' signs but no one seems to care.

approach

(39.470962, 3.143244)

(39.470264, 3.140270)

El acceso puede cambiar dependiendo del desarrollo de la bodega abandonada Es Sindicat. Estacione al noreste de la rotonda. Camine hacia el oeste a la izquierda a lo largo de la pista al sur del edificio de la bodega, gire a la derecha, suba los pequeños escalones en la esquina oeste del edificio de la bodega, atraviese el antiguo jardín con un poco de izquierda y derecha, pero siga caminando hacia el acantilado.

Access may change depending on development of the abandoned bodega Es Sindicat. Park northeast of the roundabout. Walk west left along the track south of the bodega building, turn right, go up the small steps at west corner of the bodega building, traverse through the old garden with some left and right but keep walking up towards the cliff.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.457121, 3.183311

description

Pared norte empinada y sombreada, acceso corto, buenos tornillos.

Shady steep north wall, short approach, good bolts.

approach

(39.456550, 3.182252)

Aparcamos en la pequeña capilla al lado de la carretera, ya viste el peñasco a la izquierda. Vuelve por la carretera, trepa por el costado de la carretera y sigue el camino debajo de la pared hasta los primeros pernos. En total 3min.

Park at the little chapel beside the road, you already saw the crag to the left. Walk back the road, scramble up the road side and follow the path below the wall to the first bolts. In total 3min.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.431389, 3.188466

description

Published in 2015 local guidebook.

access issues

¡Los nuevos propietarios del castillo ahora prohíben permanentemente la escalada!

Climbing is now permanently banned by the new owners of the castle!

approach

The climbing area is about 100m to the right as you face the castle.

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.414241, 3.271644

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.408778, 3.262365

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.403054, 3.255793

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.399765, 3.253558

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.391072, 3.251272

approach

(39.392755, 3.246162)

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.387297, 3.249656

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.381562, 3.246565

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.349750, 3.189011

description

Cala Mondragó es una bahía muy pintoresca y popular en la reserva natural de Mondragó. Gracias al comité de conservación sólo quedan 2 hoteles antiguos y la zona se salvó de ser arruinada por enormes hoteles turísticos.

La bahía tiene 2 pequeñas playas de arena: Cala Mondragó y Cala S'Amarador. Todo ello rodeado de acantilados de piedra caliza muy abruptos. Todas las subidas están ubicadas al lado del mar de la bahía, a unos 5 a 10 minutos a pie.

Cala Mondragó is a very scenic and popular bay at the Mondragó nature reserve. Thanks to the conservation committee there are just 2 old hotels and the area was saved from being spoiled with huge tourist hotels.

The bay has 2 little sand beaches: Cala Mondragó and Cala S'Amarador. All surrounded by very sharp limestone cliffs. The climbs are all located at the sea side of the bay, about 5 to 10 minutes to walk.

approach

Sector East: (39.356928, 3.190790)

Sector West: (39.345615, 3.187309)

Aparca en los aparcamientos oficiales de Cala Mondragó (este) o Cala S'Amarador (oeste) y sigue la calle o sendero hasta las playas (máximo 10 minutos).

Park at the official carparks of Cala Mondragó (east) or Cala S'Amarador (west) and follow the street or trail to the beaches (max 10minutes).

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.329953, 3.175964

description

Torre d'en Bèu es un acantilado marino muy bien situado, no muy diferente a la cercana y establecida "Tijuana".

Torre d'en Bèu is a beautifully situated sea cliff not dissimiliar to the nearby and long established "Tijuana". Sunny, the left sectors 'Boira' etc. getting sun around noon.

approach

(39.329982, 3.176941)

Aparca junto a la torre al final del camino de tierra. Luego camine a la izquierda (este) por un camino corto hasta la plataforma debajo del peñasco.

Park by the tower at the end of the dirt track. Then walk left (east) down a short path to the platform below the crag.

To the left sectors 'Boira' etc. you can shorter downclimb 3m chimney (or abseil bolt) here: (39.330472, 3.174261). Or abseil directly at the left routes (39.330152, 3.174494).

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.328171, 3.173367

description

Hermoso lugar de roca en una terraza perfecta.

Beautiful boulder spot on a perfect terrace.

approach

(39.328028, 3.173459)

Desde Cala Figuera simplemente camine hacia el sureste por el camino de la costa a la derecha de la bahía.

From Cala Figuera just walk southeast along the coast path right of the bay.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.328139, 3.154837

description

Acantilados soleados, buena terraza alta y seca para asegurar. El primer sector ofrece una excelente escalada sobre nuevas colas. El segundo sector más antiguo es un muro alto impresionante (50 m), algunas de las rutas más antiguas también se han vuelto a atornillar ahora.

Sunny sea cliffs, good high dry terrace for belaying. The first sector offers excellent climbing on new glue ins. The older 2nd sector is an impressive high wall (50m), some of the older routes are also rebolted now. Crag published in 2009 guidebook.

approach

Shortest parking: (39.327043, 3.164399)

Or at the end of the village: (39.326880, 3.167394)

Go down here: (39.326589, 3.164809)

(39.326124, 3.161717)

Pase Santanyni y gire hacia Cala Figuera. Tome una pequeña calle a la derecha que indica Calle Imperial y conduzca hasta el final para estacionar con cuidado. Camine hacia el camino de la costa y luego gire a la derecha (oeste) durante 50 m. Encuentra otro camino pequeño que salga del camino principal hacia la izquierda (sur) por un área de barranco abierto hasta la plataforma debajo de los acantilados. Dirígete más a la derecha a lo largo de la plataforma, pasa algunas rocas y continúa unos 150 m hasta la primera pared. La pared dura está otros 150 m más adelante en una esquina.

Drive past the Santanyni turning towards Cala Figuera. Take a small road on the right signed Calle Imperial and drive down to its end to park carefully. Walk towards the coast path then turn right (west) for 50m. Find another small path leading off the main path leftwards (south) down an open gully area to the platform below the cliffs. Head further right along the platform past some boulders and continue for around 150m to the first wall. The hard wall is another 150m further on around a corner.

Summary:

Bouldering, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.326814, 3.154481

description

Bonita terraza, buena roca y bloques de canto rodado!

Nice terrace, good rock and boulder blocks!

approach

(39.327478, 3.155570)

(39.326770, 3.154317)

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.327243, 3.149835

description

¡EL risco de postal de la costa sureste! Acogedora terraza soleada sobre el océano. Hoy en día está bastante pulido.

THE southeast coast postcard crag! Friendly sunny terrace above the ocean. Nowadays pretty polished.

approach

(39.328158, 3.149197)

Aparca cerca de la rotonda. Sigue el camino que baja hasta la costa donde pronto comienza el sector izquierdo. También puedes acercarte a través de la terraza de Pascua.

Park near the roundabout. Follow the path down to the coast where soon the left sector starts. You can also approach via the easter terrace.

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.327655, 3.146229

description

Si te gusta mojarte los pies con Deep Water Solo, ¡este es tu lugar! Hermosas rutas que van desde bastante fáciles hasta bastante difíciles.

If you like to get your feet wet with Deep Water Solo, this is the crag for you! Beautiful routes ranging from pretty easy to pretty hard.

approach

Simplemente siga las indicaciones hasta la playa de Cala Santanyi. Desde allí se puede nadar o caminar hasta las distintas zonas.

Simply follow directions to the beach of Cala Santanyi. From there you can either swim or walk to the various areas.

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.316763, 3.136477

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.356103, 3.212796

Summary:

Sport climbing, Deep water soloing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 39.620337, 3.307945

description

The Llevant (English: East) is a landscape zone on the eastern side of Mallorca. Hills and mountains, fertile fields, cliffs with bays and sandy beaches make the landscape a kind of Mallorca concentrate. Nowhere else on the island are all the elements united in such a small space.

Source Wikipedia, translated with DeepL

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.763150, 3.332306

summary

Hard routes in a beautiful landscape. Unfortunately most of the bolts and anchors are in a poor condition.

approach

Park your car in Betlem and then walk along the coast track to Es Calo. After around 10 min Sector Subte is on the right and a further 10 min to El Caló de Betlem (AKA Tudosa)

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.736000, 3.318458

approach

Path is not clearly visible all the time.

Mostly gentle but need to pass through some boulders at the end.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.730588, 3.311009

description

some route with rusty bolts

access issues

unknown access state

approach

directly at the end of parking site

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.609418, 3.359655

description

West facing suntrap crag, pleasant settin, easy approach. Published in Rokfax guidebook 2020.

Article with approach info.

approach

(39.611551, 3.360155)

(39.609541, 3.359653)

Park at the large carpark. You see the crag up the hill. Don't go straight, but a path right and then up, see map.

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.543224, 3.346296

summary

One of the best deep water solo area in the world!

description

A perfect overhanging limestone cliff with dozens of superb routes. Watch out, the top out is a high 18m-20m.

access issues

Don't go when the sea is rough. Make sure you tie a rope somewhere to climb back up.

approach

(39.543872, 3.345570)

(39.5433645, 3.3476057)

By boat, downclimbing (scary!) or traversing in from the right side of the cliff. For the traverse, walk along the cliff until you reach a bouldery descent (easy and safe).

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.533315, 3.337256

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.521449, 3.318814

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.507913, 3.305846

description

Article with pics and approach.

Most routes are newly bolted as if 2023?

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.500782, 3.299254

summary

Beautiful deep water soloing area toping out at 12-14m.

description

Discovered a year or so after the development of Cova del Diablo, Cala Varques offers a slightly less intimidating alternative to Diablo's taller cliffs. The rock is generally very solid and gives a variety of features, including stalactites, arches and some rather shapely caves. There are four main areas at Barques. The first is known simply as 'Cova' - a stunning stalactite cave around fourteen metres high. Further along the cliff are two more caves known as the Metrosexual Area and the Snatch Area. Both of these crags are connected by a giant grotto which can be accessed from the top of the cliff. The final feature here is a little further around the headland and is known as the Tarantino Cave - this is the tallest cliff in the vicinity, and houses some of the hardest routes on the island.

approach

The original approach, that started here [39.50245, 3.28931] is apparantly not longer an option. The gate is locked and parked cars seem to get towed.: Further, old info about this approach: "Park your car at the end of the dirt road. Depending on how busy the beach is, you'll have to park further away from the the start of the track... Walk through the chained gate and follow the track to the beach for 10-15min. The main cave (Cova) is on the left side of the beach and accessible by walking or swimming. For the other caves (Metrosexual and Snatch), keep walking an extra 5min through the bushes."

Currently, the approach is as follows: Park here: [39.51296, 3.27841]. Then walk along the street in southeast direction for about 200m until you reach the dirt road leading towards the beach. Follow it to its end (1.5km). There, you can climb over the stone wall to the right and another stone wall left of it. After having climbed both walls walk towards the sea for a few meters alongside another wall until you can spot a gap in the fence above it which allows you to climb over that wall. from there it is only about 5min to the beach on an obvious trail. Make sure you cross three walls or you will find yourself fighting your way through brushes until you reach the coast while taking a huge detour While this looks quite shady, it appears to be the default access nowadays, tons of people use it (to get to the beach mainly, not just for DWS).

history

Most routes here were put up by Klem Loskot, along with the Salomon team, local enthusiast Miquel Riera and U.S. convert Chris Sharma.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.492671, 3.290769

approach

Approach map.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.487382, 3.286080

description

Probablemente la pared de escalada deportiva más popular de Mallorca (al menos para los turistas). Muchas buenas rutas en roca perfecta justo al lado de la playa hacen que sea difícil elegir cómo pasar el día. Aquí puede hacer mucho sol y calor, lo que puede ser una ventaja y una desventaja. Desafortunadamente, algunas rutas se han pulido un poco con el tiempo. Además, la calidad de los pernos varía entre perfecta y horrible, así que verifique primero.

Probably the most popular sport climbing crag in Mallorca (at least for tourists). Many good routes on perfect rock just beside the beach make it hard to choose how to spend the day. It can become very sunny and hot here, which can be advantage and disadvantage. Unluckily quite some routes have become a bit polished over time. Also the bolt quality varies between perfect and horrible, so check first.

approach

(39.4970370, 3.2702360)

Aparca tu coche junto a la calle (MA-4014) por el valle de Cala Magraner (aparcamiento más grande en el lado suroeste). El camino de acceso comienza en el lado noreste, sígalo pasando algunas puertas (¡ciérrelas de nuevo!) y sobre una pared para llegar a los sectores / playa después de unos 30 minutos.

Park your car beside the street (MA-4014) through the Cala Magraner valley (larger parking at the south-west side). The access path starts at the north-east side, follow it past some gates (close them again!) and over one wall to reach the sectors / beach after about 30min.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.475103, 3.287864

description

La bahía de Cala Bota atrae con la mejor roca y una playa de ensueño. Desde el verano de 2018 hay un nuevo jardín de escalada para escaladores principiantes y avanzados en la costa este de Mallorca. 37 rutas variadas con dificultad de 3 a 7a y de 15 a 20 metros de longitud, todas bien aseguradas, te están esperando. La idea se les ocurrió a los desarrolladores Kerstin y Armin Helbach en un bote que se dirigía a un lugar de aguas profundas en solitario. Les llamó la atención el largo muro y la roca perfecta. En el transcurso de la temporada de invierno 2017/2018, los dos abrieron la pared de piedra caliza directamente sobre el mar. Todos los ganchos son de acero inoxidable Bühler y las distancias se mantienen deliberadamente fáciles de usar.

La mitad de las rutas están orientadas al sureste y, por lo tanto, están sombreadas por la tarde. Esto hace que la pared, a diferencia de la cercana Cala Magraner, sea un lugar perfecto para la escalada deportiva en verano. El acceso (justo arriba de las rutas) es una caminata de 20 minutos por un camino público. Tienes que bajar unos metros muy fácilmente para llegar a las entradas, pero esto es fácilmente factible. Una amplia banda en la base del muro permite un fácil y seguro acceso a las vías. De esta franja, sin embargo, se adentra unos diez metros en el mar en forma de bloques. Por lo tanto, el área es solo parcialmente adecuada para familias con niños pequeños. Pero a solo unos cientos de metros, una hermosa playa lo invita a relajarse y nadar.

Todos los costos de material para el desarrollo corrieron a cargo de escaladores de todo el mundo. Cada uno de ellos patrocinó una ruta completa individualmente o en equipo y se les permitió dar su nombre a la línea. Una experiencia especial fue el desarrollo conjunto de Elmo Love (5c) con Ramin AlHarthi, el fundador del primer (y único) club de escalada de Arabia Saudita.

Esta forma de financiación para una remodelación importante ha sido un gran éxito y se recomienda encarecidamente imitarla. Kerstin y Armin Helbach se habían ganado el acto de fe necesario para la financiación de este perno durante la renovación y ampliación del jardín de escalada de Sa Mola, cerca de Felanitx.

Debido a la ubicación especial del jardín de escalada en una reserva natural de propiedad privada, se debe dar gran importancia a la conservación de la naturaleza. La acampada, el fuego, la música y la basura no tienen cabida aquí. Para evitar que los costosos deflectores se desgasten demasiado rápido, también pedimos que las cuerdas superiores solo se instalen con su propio material, es decir, destornilladores.

The bay of Cala Bota attracts with the best rock and a dream beach. Since the summer of 2018 there has been a new climbing garden for beginners and advanced climbers on Mallorca's east coast. 37 varied routes with difficulty from 3 to 7a and 15 to 20 meters in length, all well secured, are waiting for you. The idea came to the developers Kerstin and Armin Helbach on a boat on their way to a deep water soloing spot. They were struck by the long wall and the perfect rock. In the course of the 2017/2018 winter season, the two then opened up the limestone wall directly above the sea. All bolts are bonded stainless steel Bühler and the distances are deliberately kept userfriendly.

Half of the routes face south-east and are therefore shaded in the afternoon (shade comes in around 2pm). This makes the wall, unlike the nearby Cala Magraner, a perfect afternoon sport climbing spot for the summer. Access (to just above the routes) is a 20 minute walk on a public path. You have to climb down a few meters very easily to get to the route starts, but this is easily doable. A wide band at the base of the wall allows easy and safe access to the routes. From this band, however, it goes down about ten meters into the sea in a blocky manner. The area is therefore only partially suitable for families with small children. But only a few hundred meters away, a beautiful beach invites you to linger and swim.

All material costs for the development were borne by climbing travelers from all over the world. They each sponsored a complete route individually or as a team and were allowed to give the line its name. A special experience was the joint development of Elmo Love (5c) with Ramin AlHarthi, the founder of the first (and only) Saudi Arabian climbing club.

This form of funding for a major redevelopment has been a great success and imitation is highly recommended. Kerstin and Armin Helbach had earned the necessary leap of faith for this bolt funding during the renovation and expansion of the Sa Mola climbing garden near Felanitx.

Due to the special location of the climbing garden in a privately owned nature reserve, great importance should be attached to nature conservation. Camping, fire, music and rubbish have no place here. In order to protect the expensive anchors from wearing through too quickly, we also ask that top ropes only be set up with your own material.

Picturesque crag above the sea with nice, but relatively short routes on limestone rock with big variances of roughness, color, solidity, amount and size of holes. Due to the special location of the crag in a privately owned nature reserve, great importance should be attached to nature conservation. The grades of all routes are written on the rock at the base of each climb.

The right parts of the crag receive shadow in the afternoon and due to the proximity to the sea there is often a fresh breeze blowing. Unluckily, it's not straightforward to change over to the beach of Cala Bota, this requires some scrambling down the ledge or a longer walk (see: approach). Not really kid's friendly, but it's ok. The starting ledge is wide and comfortable, but falls off to the sea for about 20m.

Topo.

approach

(39.47736, 3.27238)

(39.4751106, 3.2868855)

Desde la Ma-4014 Portocolom dirección Portochristo desviarse hacia Cales de Mallorca. Después de 2,1 km, aparcar a la izquierda en una curva a la derecha (39.4773911, 3.2727154). Siga el ancho camino de grava. Pasa por alto la puerta cerrada a la derecha. La pendiente conduce en curvas a Cala Magraner (3 km). Después de un kilómetro, en un giro a la derecha, tome el depósito más estrecho de frente. (El otro camino, ligeramente cuesta abajo a la derecha, lleva a la playa de Cala Bota). Después de 500 metros, tome el camino más angosto (incluso) de frente. Llegado al acantilado (arriba de las rutas) sin camino, gira a la derecha y después de unos 100 metros encuentra el descenso fácil hacia la cómoda cornisa a mitad del acantilado. Allí podéis ver la playa de Cala Bota a la derecha. Yendo a la izquierda se llega a las primeras rutas a los pocos metros.

From the Ma-4014 Portocolom direction Portochristo turn to Cales de Mallorca. After 2.1 km, park on the left in a right-hand curve (39.4773911, 3.2727154). Follow the wide gravel road eastwards for 150m. Bypass the locked gate on the right. After 1.4km, in a left turn (3km to Cala Magraner) take the narrower path straight ahead. (The other path, slightly downhill to the right, leads to Cala Bota beach). After 500 meters take the (even) narrower path straight ahead. Arrived at the cliff (above the routes) without a path, turn right and after about 100 meters find the easy descent onto the comfortable ledge halfway up the cliff. There you can see the beach of Cala Bota on the right. Going to the left you reach the first routes after a few meters. Total 25min. See map.

ethic

No music!
Leave no trace!
Don't toprope on fixed gear! Use your own quickdraws or biners!

history

2018 established by the [Camperhof team - Kerstin und Armin Helbach )(http://klettern-mallorca.com/). Some description (DE) and a photo topo at outdoor-magazin.com (2018, see 2nd half)

summary

Small crag high above cala millor

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 39.527783, 3.327455

description

A DWS cave just outside of Cala Magrana.

Stunning video of the area by Marco Müller (including a topo at the end of the video):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbreQjA-1_s

history

Discovered initially by Philipp Geisenhoff, Benjamin Weber, Benjamin Schelker, Flo Weber and Marco Müller in 2022.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.730481, 3.293676

Table of contents

1. Mallorca 3,039 routes in Region

1.1. Serra de Tramuntana 1,464 routes in Region

1.1.1. Mont Port 59 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Cala Llamp 35 routes in Crag

1.1.3. Can Formiga 10 routes in Crag

1.1.4. Santa Ponça 22 routes in Crag

1.1.5. El Museo 21 routes in Sector

1.1.6. Puig de Garrafa 124 routes in Crag

1.1.7. La Vall Verda 13 routes in Crag

1.1.8. Es Capdellà 41 routes in Crag

1.1.9. Calvia 19 routes in Crag

1.1.10. Can Ortigues 20 routes in Crag

1.1.11. Galilea 15 routes in Crag

1.1.12. Puigpunyent 1 route in Field

1.1.13. Penyal de sa Mel 23 routes in Crag

1.1.14. Penyal d'es Grau 19 routes in Crag

1.1.15. Es Verger 40 routes in Crag

1.1.16. Esporles 2 routes in Field

1.1.17. Tazmania 14 routes in Crag

1.1.18. S' Estret 272 routes in Crag

1.1.19. Es Torrent 15 routes in Crag

1.1.20. Valldemossa 59 routes in Crag

1.1.21. Sa Foradada 0 routes in Crag

Fixed Gear: Seriously corroded bolts

1.1.22. Sa Gubia 141 routes in Crag

1.1.23. Penyal de Ca'n Fil 40 routes in Crag

1.1.24. Fraguels 62 routes in Crag

1.1.25. Ca'n Torrat 46 routes in Crag

1.1.26. Port de Sóller 71 routes in Area

1.1.27. C'an Nyic 11 routes in Crag

1.1.28. Puig Major 3 routes in Crag

1.1.29. S'Aigua Blava 19 routes in Crag

1.1.30. Gorg Blau 56 routes in Crag

1.1.31. Tossals 1 route in Area

1.1.32. Cala Tuent & Sa Calobra 28 routes in Area

1.1.33. Campanet 1 route in Field

1.1.34. Pixarells 6 routes in Area

1.1.35. Sa Font 21 routes in Crag

1.1.36. Vall de Bóquer 32 routes in Crag

1.1.37. Cavall Bernat 1 route in Area

1.1.38. La Creveta 44 routes in Crag

Access: No access to sectors Nord and Central

1.1.39. Es Colomer 6 routes in Crag

1.1.40. Punta la Nao 0 routes in Crag

1.1.41. El Fumat 26 routes in Crag

1.1.42. Xon Xanquete 25 routes in Crag

1.2. Palma 156 routes in Region

1.2.1. Porto Pi 7 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Ca's Català 36 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Sa Cantera 13 routes in Crag

1.2.4. La Vileta 14 routes in Crag

1.2.5. El Bünker 67 routes in Crag

1.2.6. Indoorwall Mallorca 19 routes in Gym

1.3. Raiguer 429 routes in Region

1.3.1. Na Bastida 45 routes in Area

Access: Access forbidden from February to July

1.3.2. Alaró 99 routes in Crag

1.3.3. Caimari 180 routes in Area

1.3.4. Es Grau des Ruc 60 routes in Crag

1.3.5. Puig St. Martí 20 routes in Crag