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The Lounge All Sport climbing 20 routes in sector

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 396
  • Aka: Main face
20
FR
6b6c7a7b7c8a8b8c

Seasonality

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Description

The first sector when you come around the corner and walk right from the camp, lots of steep and good stuff.

Ethic inherited from Chong Phli - Spirit Mountain

Chong Phli is approximately 90% titanium bolts. There are slings used for some routes because of soft rock, where they tend to be safer than bolts. All anchors and slings are checked yearly to make sure they are safe.

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Routes

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1
6b ★★ Baby Foot Sport 10m, 7

Short line starting on tufas at the very left up the small hill. All titanium bolts.

2
6b+ ★★ Schmoopy Power Sport 18m, 10

Starts just left of 'Babies in the Sky'. All TI bolts.

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3
6c+ ★★ Babies in the Sky Sport 28m

This route originally finished after 15m at the anchor of 'Mainlander' which would be a good option if the upper section is wet after rain.

Now it continues up on black rock to it's own anchor at 28m. Possibly you need about 15 quickdraws, but I need to check.

FA: Nicola taatjes, 2015

Set: Nicola taatjes, 2015

4
8a/a+ ★★ Mainlander Sport 15m, 6

Shares the anchor with 'Babies in the Sky'. All titanium bolts.

FA: Jonas Wallin, 2015

Set: Jonas Wallin, 2015

5
7b ★★ Rex Kwan-Do Sport 17m, 7

All titanium bolts. Two TI bolts with SS rings for anchor.

FA: Jonas Wallin, 2015

Set: Jonas Wallin, 2015

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6
7a+ ★★★ Superstition Sport 15m, 8

All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Set: Bob, 2010

7
8a ★★★ Slap and Tickle Sport 26m, 14

Second pitch of 'Superstition'. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Set: Martin, 2010

8
7b+ ★★★ Man Sport 21m, 10

Great rock, technical crux up high. Share start with Mouse. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Set: Fred & Martin

9
7b ★★★ Mouse SportProject 21m, 10

Same start as 'Man', but traverses right to a big hole just before the 8th clip. From the hole continue to left anchors. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Set: Fred & Martin, 2010

10
7b ★★★ Kaeng Raeng Sport 21m, 9

Shares the start with 'Pill Box', then left after the first sling. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Set: Fred, 2010

11
7c ★★★ Middle Path Sport 32m, 13

Extension of 'Kaeng Raeng'. All TI bolts. 70m rope required. TI Anchor ring (2022)

12
6b+/c ★★ Pill Box Sport 21m, 9

Shares the start with 'Kaeng Raeng', then right after the first sling. Finishes on the anchor slightly to the left. All TI bolts.

Set: Fred & Bob, 2010

13
8a ★★★ Red Planet Sport 33m, 5

Second pitch of 'Pill Box'. 5 titanium bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Set: Fred & Bob, 2010

14
8b+ ★★★ Red Planet Extension SportProject 40m, 4

Open Project, maybe 8b+? please try. 80m is rope fine, tie knot in end.

Set: DnD, 25 Jan 2023

15
7b ★★★ Scorpion Sport 33m, 14

Climb 'Pill Box' to the last bolt, then go right and up. Two bolts before the anchor, take the left lines into the huecos. One hold has been "enhanced" (drilled) to make it more homogeneous. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Set: Fred, 2010

16
8a Scorpion (Direct) Sport 33m, 14

Same climb as 'Scorpion', just don't use the manufactured four finger pocket.

17
8b+/c ★★★ Doctor Doom SportProject

OPEN PROJECT, 8B+/8c??? Same start Scorpion, continue on 2nd pitch, Scorpion extension 🦂 70m rope, tie a knot in the end.

Set: DnD, 10 Jan 2022

18
7a+ Ice-9 Sport 33m, 14

Climb 'Scorpion', but take the right of the two bolt lines on the 3rd last clip. One hold has been "enhanced" (drilled) to make it more homogeneous. All TI bolts.

Set: Fred, 2010

19
7c+ Ice-9 (Direct) Sport 33m, 14

Same climb as 'Ice-9', just don't use manufactured four finger pocket.

20
7c+ Chasing Windmills Sport 7

To the right of Pillbox.

Set: Jonas W.

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6b+/c ★★ Pill Box
7a+ ★★★ Superstition
7b ★★★ Kaeng Raeng
8a ★★★ Red Planet

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on ★★ Babies in the Sky 6c+ - vlcsnap-2018-05-25-15h48m31s5~2.png

★★★ Superstition 7a+ - Superstition

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