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Summary
Limestone
A small quarry with 20 routes ranging from 4c to 7a. It is sunny until late afternoon and the rock dries quickly.
Description
Morning sun
Noon sun
Sheltered from wind
Not as big as its neighbors but it's a nice place to tick a lot of routes in the 5-6 grade.
Access issues
No issues.
Approach
Driving from Stoney village, just before the main car park at Horseshoe quarry there is a small layby, leave your car there and cross the road through the woods where you will find the quarry. (less than 2 minutes of walk).
Beware of crossing the road, the road is busy and the layby is just at the bend of the road. It's better and safer to walk up a little bit to the straight bit of the road, then cross to the other side.
Where to stay
Plenty of B&B in the nearby villages.
Ethic inherited from Peak District Limestone
Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.
History
Bolted, and first ascents by Gary Gibson. Please support his work at: https://www.sportclimbs.uk/
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Steve Broadbent
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9781913167110
A selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing areas in the northern half of England and Wales, covering 89 crags across Cumbria, Lancashire, North Yorkshire, the esoteric Filey sea cliffs, the Peak District, Cheshire, Clwyd limestone, the A55 and North Wales coast, and Llanberis slate.
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Author(s): Alan James & Chris Craggs
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781873341582
A selective guidebook describing the best Trad rock climbing and sport climbing found on the limestone crags in the Peak District, covering over 3,000 routes at 30 crags.
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Author(s): Ian Carr & Gary Gibson
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780903908399
A comprehensive guidebook describing the trad climbing, sport climbing and bouldering in the southern area of the Peak District, covering 50 crags including the classic areas of High Tor, Dovedale, Wirksworth, Matlock and the Manifold Valley.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Wed 7 Jun
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