Lowland Outcrops Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Lowland Outcrops 1,708 routes in Area

7 3 8 1 2 4 5 6

1 Cambusbarron North 2 Cambusbarron Quarry 3 Fife 4 Edinburgh / East Lothian / Fast Castle 5 Glasgow Outcrops 6 The Outcrops of the South West 7 St. Andrews 8 Wolfcrag

Summary:

J

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Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.516798, -3.677538

summary

Also called the Central Belt, this area mainly focuses on crags (mostly quarries) between Glasgow and Edinburgh, with some others north and south of them.

description

This area covers the venues of the ever popular Lowland's of Scotland from Ben A'an in the Trossachs to the granite mountains and sea cliffs of Galloway. Includes Dumbarton Rock and its boulders, Craigmore, Aberdour, Traprain Law and many other popular crags.

1.1. Cambusbarron North 0 routes in Area

summary

One of the best venues in the central belt for those operating in the E3-5 range (plenty to go at above and below too).

description

Even though the crag has since a bit of a renaissance in 2017 with a committed band of locals tidying things up, clearing back vegetation and giving some of the routes a much needed scrub, a lot more is there to do yet, with lines suffering from moss accumulation and bad conditions.

Very sheltered, left wall catches evening sun in summer. However, can seep quite a bit over the winter. Very close to the M9 so makes an ideal stopping off point if heading further north or south.

approach

(56.107574, -3.976590)

Walk straight south and after passing a bunch of fallen trees you'll reach the crag in 3-4 mins.

1.2. Cambusbarron Quarry 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.105741, -3.977222

summary

Pleasant outlook that dries quickly. Year-round climbing possible.

description

As with all the Central belt dolerite quarries there is often loose rock to be found here, particularly on the top-outs and even on well established routes.

approach

(56.107574, -3.976590)

Park at the west end of Old Drove Road, walk through the barrier, and after about 60m take the left path (sign-posted) that goes slightly uphill. First route on the left is a lonely pillar with an interesting E1 (Ninety-Five).

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Left (Forest) Routes Left of Chisel
2		Ninety-Five	E1 5b	Trad 10m
3		★ Scales of Injustice	{FR} 7b+	Sport 10m
4		Bird's Nest Crack	VS 5a	Trad 10m
5		One for the Buzzards	HVS 5a	Trad 10m
6		Cross in Oz	E1 5b	Trad 10m
7		Cross-town Traffic	E1 5b	Trad 10m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★ Yoshimi	E1 5b	Trad 10m
9		★ Force 8	E1 5b	Trad 10m
10		★ Pipistrelle	HVS 5a	Trad 10m
11		Miss Po	E2 5b	Trad 10m
12		★★ Public Spirited Individual	E4 6a	Trad 18m
13		★ Unnamed	{FR} 6c	Sport 10m
Right (Contract area) Routes right of Chisel
15		★★★ Chisel	E4 6a	Trad 10m
16		★ Gobi Roof	E2 5c	Trad 10m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
17		★★ Easy Contract	HVS 5b	Trad 10m
18		★★ Not Easy Contract	E1 5b	Trad 10m
19		Kansas City Shuffle	E3 5c	Trad 12m
20		★★ Slot Shot	E3 5c	Trad 15m
21		Chime	E2 5b	Trad 15m
22		Another One Bites the Dust	E1 5b	Trad 15m
23		Still Better than Peak	VS 4c	Trad 12m
24		Malky the Alky	E1 5b	Trad 15m
25		Another Malky	E1 5b	Trad 12m
26		Ethanol Start Malky and move right into the blank looking face by face holds, to climb the thin crack to the top.	E3 5c	Trad 15m
27		The Doobie Brothers	E1 5b	Trad 15m
28		★ Bo's Girdle Start up Easy Contract, traverse to the ledge on Not Easy Contract, climb the layback crack until you can traverse right towards the corner of Malky the Alky. Go round the arete and finish up the crack.	E2 5b	Trad 17m
South Wall

1.3. Fife 180 routes in Area

4 1 2 3

1 The Hawkcraig 2 Limekilns 3 Rosyth Quarry 4 Dollar Quarry

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.220808, -3.151313

1.3.1. The Hawkcraig 67 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.050232, -3.286726

summary

It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.

description

This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs.

Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Partially tidal. Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high tide.

access issues

Bird bans may be present. Please read Disturbance of Birds section on Mountaineering Scotland website.

Partially tidal.

approach

If driving from Mill Farm Road to Aberdour, take a left on A921 and quickly the first right onto Hawkcraig Rd. Park at one of the car parks (56.052574, -3.289378) and walk south east towards the lighthouse. The crag will be on the right facing south. 

An easy and short descent approach is possible on the eastern side of the crag to the base of the very first climbs on the right. Alternatively, and abseil on stakes further west is also possible. Furthermore, there is also the option to walk west down the path that leads to the Forth View Hotel and then walk back eastwards towards the crag, giving you the most impressive sight of the cliffs.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Fish Head Arete	VD	Trad 20m
2		Fish Head Wall	VD	Trad 5m
3		Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish)	S	Trad 10m
4		Ugh!	HS	Trad 8m
5		Sacriledge	HVS 4c	Trad 8m
6		★ Eech! The quartz-filled crack at the back of the recess. Climb it and step left into Ugh when you reach the roof. Belay with the tree stump on the terrace.	VS 4b	Trad 8m
7		★ Squirrel Slab Stark on the terrace, near the tre stump, where it says 'KEN'.	VS 5a	Trad 12m
8		Weasel Wall There's a white-ish corner above a terrace (3m right of Squirrel Slab), and to the left of it a small roof can be seen. Climb from the bottom of the corner, to directly underneath the small roof. From here move slightly leftwards to climb the left edge of the wall above, without moving into Squirrel Slab.	E2 5c	Trad 12m
9		Garlic Bread	E2 6a	Trad 12m
10		Pizza	E2 5c	Trad 12m
11		★★ Cranium Crack 1). The overhanging crack at the back of the bay is well protected and leads to a good belay ledge. Cams needed for the belay. 2). From the bottom terrace, climb the corner right in front which has a white patch on the left at the bottom. If you finished the pitch higher up, traverse slightly right to be on top of the white patch, and climb up on good rounded holds.	VS 4c	Trad 20m
12		★ Conquistador Crack	VS 5a	Trad 7m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
13		The Groper	HVS 5a	Trad 7m
14		★ Stomach Ache	S	Trad 7m
15		★ The Beast	HS 4c	Trad 7m
16		★ Gismo	VS 4c	Trad 20m
17		★ Gismo Direct	HVS 5a	Trad 20m
18		★★ Pain Pillar (Left Variation)	VS 5a	Trad 25m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
19		★★★ Pain Pillar	VS 4c	Trad 25m
20		★★★ Gaucho Go right at the small roof, then back left.	HVS 5a	Trad 25m
21		Gaucho Direct a slightly harder version taking the roof direct.	HVS 5a	Trad 25m
22		Psylocible This takes the wall (buttress) to the right of Gaucho and left of Rebel's Groove. Avoiding holds and gear from either of the climbs left or right (eliminate), climb the crack in the pillar to a ledge (same ledge of Rebel's Groove, and from there climb straight up to a blunt black rib. There's a creaky/shaky/loose flake that you inevitably use to overcome the bulge. From top of the bulge, continue straight up to the top. UPDATE 30/04/2021: The shaky flake(s) have both fallen off leaving a large scoop of dirt. The grade is now unknown. Climb with caution.	E2 5a	Trad 25m
23		★ Rebel's Groove	VS 5a	Trad 25m
24		★ Saki	VS 4c	Trad 25m
25		★ Short Circuit	VS 5a	Trad 25m
26		Slack Alice	HS	Trad 20m
27		Brutus	HS	Trad 20m
28		Torment	HS	Trad 20m
29		★ The Dwarf Climb a series of shallow corners that you will find about 3m left of Guano. The crux (not well protected) is the protruding nose. Finish above climbing past the gorse plants.	E1 5b	Trad 20m
30		★★ Guano	HVS 5a	Trad 20m
31		Guano Variation	E2 5b	Trad 20m
32		Ganja	VD	Trad 20m
33		The Chimney	VD	Trad 20m
34		The Chimney Direct Finish	S	Trad 20m
35		Chimney Arete	VD	Trad 20m
36		★★ Asinine	VS 4c	Trad 20m
37		★ Asinine-ty	VS 4c	Trad 20m
38		The Arete	HVS 5a	Trad 20m
39		★★ The Lilly	S	Trad 20m
40		★ Gunga Din	S	Trad 20m
41		Crusader	HS	Trad 20m
42		★★ Saracen	VS 4c	Trad 20m
43		Toerag's Wall	S	Trad 15m
44		★ Toerag's Wall (Direct Start)	VS 5a	Trad 15m
45		Hip Replacement	E1 5b	Trad 15m
46		Diptera	VS 4c	Trad 15m
47		Escalator	VD	Trad 15m
48		Tink	S	Trad 15m
49		Aaron's Way	S	Trad 15m
50		★ Hallelujah Wall	HS 4a	Trad 15m
51		Rib and Groove	HS	Trad 15m
52		The Whang	D	Trad 12m
53		Guillemot Head Mush Find the big flake (5m wide) of Flake and Wall, and climb its left edge/arete without bridging into the main cliff wall. Poorly protected but some decent committing moves.	VS 4c	Trad 5m
54		★ Flake and Wall	S	Trad 12m
55		Flake and Wall (Variation)	S	Trad 12m
56		Five o'clock Shadow Arete	HVS 5a	Trad 1m
57		Shadow Corner	S	Trad 10m
58		★ Destiny Groove	S	Trad 10m
59		The Dreeping Beak There is a bit of quartz on a wall just left of Destiny Groove. Climb this to a 'porthole' and keep climbing to the triangular roof. Climb straight up the Beak (nose, crux) without escaping left of right if you want to claim the grade. Protection is poor throughout. Bolt belay.	E1 5c	Trad 10m
60		★ Urmi	VS 4c	Trad 10m
61		★ Maureen	S	Trad 10m
62		Welly Wall	VD	Trad 10m
63		Serendipity Goes up the pillar between Welly Wall and Eureka. If you find Eureka, climb the wall immediately left avoiding holds of Eureka, and whithout fully stepping left into the slanting ledge.	HVS 5a	Trad 10m
64		★ Eureka	VS 5a	Trad 10m
65		Where Were You? A natural eliminate between Termination and Eureka, without using holds or protection of either. From exactly below the small overlap with an obvious large undercling, climb straight up. Reaching the undercling is protected from below. The crux (above) is unprotected. Commitment and determination will see you through. Worth it if climbed purely.	E2 5c	Trad 10m
66		Termination The crack at the extreme right end of the cliff. Don't bridge out behind you for the grade.	VS 4c	Trad 10m
67		★ The Low Girdle	VS 4c	Trad 80m

1.3.2. Limekilns 51 routes in Crag

1 2

1 The Sentinel 2 Gellet Block

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.036895, -3.494160

summary

One of the few if not only limestone crags in Scotland.

description

Two weird quarried limestone blocks in a pleasant woodland setting, with some good middle grade climbs on cracks and seemingly blank walls.

access issues

The crag has a history of access problems, with the landowner having taken such measures as smearing the rock with grease and installing bat boxes to discourage climbing in the past. The situation remains delicate, so please behave responsibly and try to minimise impact on the crag and surroundings.

approach

Parking is available throughout the village. Please avoid blocking driveways or causing any inconvenience to locals.

Cross the gate beside the Bowling Club (56.036656, -3.496088) and following the uphill path behind the house on the left. At the top of the path, it forks: left goes to The Sentinel, right to Gellet.

1.3.2.1. The Sentinel 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.037171, -3.494474

description

The less popular of the two blocks. Each face is unique in it's texture and features. From overhanging, to slabs, from smooth texture to very grippy.

This is the less popular and smaller of the two blocks, as it gets less sun and climbs are generally harder.

approach

Parking is available throughout the village. Please avoid blocking driveways or causing any inconvenience to locals.

Cross the gate beside the Bowling Club (56.036656, -3.496088) and following the uphill path behind the house on the left. At the top of the path it forks, turn left to reach The Sentinel.

descent notes

Abseil from in-situ slings at the top.

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1.3.2.2. Gellet Block 31 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 56.036245, -3.493424

description

The more popular of the two blocks, with a sunnier aspect as less gloomy. All faces here are similar in nature, with both crack and face climbs.

approach

Parking is available throughout the village. Please avoid blocking driveways or causing any inconvenience to locals.

Cross the gate beside the Bowling Club (56.036656, -3.496088) and following the uphill path behind the house on the left. At the top of the path, turn right to reach Gellet Block.

descent notes

Walk down using the stairs at the back (north face).

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1.3.3. Rosyth Quarry 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 56.035325, -3.405304

summary

Despite the grotty-ness of this quarry, the distractions of the M90 and the paintwork on the rock, it's not actually a bad place to climb.

description

Some decent routes - dries quickly. Worth a visit but take a rope bag - there is a lot of broken glass lying around.

Woulnd't hurt bringing a bin bag along and helping clearing out all the rubbish.

approach

Park in Rosyth on Admiralty Rd near M90 roundabout (56.036628, -3.409293). Take care crossing road!

5 mins walk in. Or park in Inverkeithing and approach from the top. The crag is also easily accessible by train from Edinburgh, there is a station in Inverkeithing.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Grot Corner	S	Unknown 10m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
2		★ Chemical Warfare	S	Trad 10m
3		Slab Toes Climb the arête left of Sickle, staying left of the obvious crack (the only option for protection).	HS 4b	Trad 10m
4		Sickle	VD	Trad 10m
5		Wireworm	M	Trad 7m
6		Smith's Dilemma	D	Trad 6m
7		Jack's Route	VD	Trad 6m
8		Legover Groove	VD	Trad 6m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
9		Andy's Route	VD	Trad 7m
10		Poison Dwarf	E1 5c	Trad 7m
11		Drizzle	S	Trad 8m
12		★★ The Waullie	HVS 5b	Trad 10m
13		C.N.D.	S	Trad 10m
14		Hands Off	VS 4c	Trad 10m
15		★ Iconoclast	HVS 5a	Trad 15m
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
16		★★ Grenville	VS 4c	Trad 15m
17		★★ Heathy	VS 4c	Trad 15m
18		★★ Cathy	VS 4c	Trad 15m
19		★★ Broken Pillar	HVS 5a	Trad 15m
20		Ram Jam Corner	HVS 5a	Unknown 6m
21		Pogo Groove	VS 4c	Unknown 6m
22		★ The Beast	VS 5a	Unknown 6m
23		The Grinder	HVS 4c	Unknown 6m
24		★ Gift Horse	VS 4b	Unknown 7m
25		★★ Gold Foil	VS 4c	Unknown 7m
26		★ The Flying Bink	VS 4c	Unknown 7m

1.3.4. Dollar Quarry 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 56.173116, -3.671574

description

The crag has trad routes which were put up by Jamie Main back in the early 80s. In recent years, these had received few ascents and many had become overgrown. In 2021, Keith Davidson cleaned and removed a large amount of loose rock before bolting some new sport routes as well as retro-bolting some of the original trad routes. The trad routes have not been checked by the moderator but have been listed separately for completeness.

approach

From the A91 in Dollar, follow signs for Castle Campbell and park in the big car park half way up the road to Castle Campbell (56.171890, -3.670618). Walk up the road until you come to a track on the right with two boulders at the entrance. Take this which leads you to Dollar Quarry. 10 mins from car park maximum.

1.4. Edinburgh / East Lothian / Fast Castle 117 routes in Area

10 12 1 2 11 6 9 7 4 8 3 5

1 Alien Rock 1 2 Alien Rock 2 3 Corbie's Crag 4 EICA 5 Roslin Glen 6 Salisbury Crags 7 New Meggetland Bridge 8 Ratho Quarry 9 The Souter 10 North Berwick Law 11 Traprain Law 12 Balgone Heughs

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.862250, -3.062694

1.4.1. Alien Rock 1 0 routes in Gym

description

Alien Rock is in an old church on the sea front. Great climbing facilities.

1.4.2. Alien Rock 2 0 routes in Gym

1.4.3. Corbie's Crag 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.921637, -3.191759

summary

Great crack climbs, overhangs and slabs make this a versatile location for emerging leaders and top-ropers alike.

description

Lying on the south side of Blackford Hill and formed from volcanic rock this crag is quick drying and warm even on the coldest of winter days. A forgotten favourite of Edinburgh locals in the 60s and 70s, the crag is undergoing a clean up and new routes are being opened up all along it.

approach

From the Midmar Drive car park, head through the field and turn right out of the gate. Head along the path about 150m and you'll see the crag on the left. The approach is steep scree but stable once you've reached the bottom of the cliff.

From the Observatory car park head up along the road towards the telephone mast. The crag is on the south side of the knoll 150m south west of the mast and can be approached from either the north-east along a gorse path or the north-west along the cliff side.

1.4.4. EICA 0 routes in Gym

summary

World's Biggest Indoor Climbing Centre

description

The Edinburgh International Climbing Arena

1.4.5. Roslin Glen 0 routes in Crag

1.4.6. Salisbury Crags 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 55.943975, -3.169225

1.4.7. New Meggetland Bridge 1 route in Artificial

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.927260, -3.232049

1.4.8. Ratho Quarry 22 routes in Crag

2 1 3 4

1 West Wall 2 Black Wall 3 East Wall 4 East Bay

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 55.923809, -3.396384

summary

Dolerite quarry with trad routes mostly (some sport), just outside the EICA.

description

A good venue of HVS climb and up. Different styles and grades for year-round climbing as it faces all sides.

access issues

Beware the car park is barred and closed when the centre closes.

approach

Leave the M8 at Junction 2 and follow the signs for EICA. Park at their car park and walk around it to the bottom, then through and out again to the quarry.

1.4.8.1. West Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 55.924069, -3.397105

1.4.8.2. Black Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.924263, -3.396649

1.4.8.3. East Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 55.923876, -3.396040

1.4.8.4. East Bay 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.923317, -3.396350

1.4.9. The Souter 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.930851, -2.212116

description

The area around the Souter sea-stack gives some excellent sea-cliff climbing. A great venue for the mid extreme leader!

Must Dos : Skate Bush, E7, 6b, Squid Vicious E5 6a, Puffer Daddy, E3 6a, Fast Bleeder E3 6a, Take It To The Limpets E3 5c, Wallnut E3 5c, Plain sailing E1 5b, The Souter, Ordinary Route HVS 5a, Second Sight HVS 5a.

Contrary to the guide, The Wedge is non-tidal, Limpet Fin is very tidal, Crimpanzie Fin has flaky rock and getting from the half-height ledge to the peg anchor (now backed up) is quite tedious.

access issues

Check active bird bans on Scottish Mountaineering website

approach

(55.924600, -2.233013)

Take the well signposted St Abbs coastal path on the right hand side of the farm to a 3 way junction. The souter is signed from here. Follow a vague path downhill through 2 gates. A final stile leads to a well worn path down steep grass to the inlet.

1.4.10. North Berwick Law 19 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.046238, -2.715783

summary

Popular sunny spot with good demanding routes.

description

The crag is family friendly and also a good spot for picnics and having a relaxing day out. The rock is solid and the bolting is fair and adequate. The crag offers different style from vertical climbs to slabs.

Must-Dos: Necktie (6b+), Fogtown (7a), Law of Gravity (7a+)

approach

(56.049197, -2.719194)

Follow the wide track on the west side of the Law without ever going uphill. The quarried walls will be found on the left after 5 mins.

ethic

Pick up your rubbish and brush the tick-marks and holds after you climb.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Left-Hand Route	{FR} 6a+	Sport 8m
2		★ Necktie The left hand arte on its right side.	{FR} 6b+	Sport 15m, 6
3		★★ Fogtown First line to the right of the arete	{FR} 7a	Sport 15m, 5
4		★★ Law of Gravity LH Left start to Law of Gravity	{FR} 7a+	Sport 17m
5		★★ Law of gravity Starting from the low ledge on the right.	{FR} 7a	Sport 16m
6		★ Jaws of the Law Start of the ledge with a very hard move past the overlap.	{FR} 6c	Sport 16m
7		★★ Law of the Flies	{FR} 7a	Sport
8		★★ Law And Disorder Climb the corner then take the thin crack up the left wall gaining the ledge and flake above	{FR} 6a+	Sport 10m
9		★ Law of the rings Girdle starting up arte of Nectie	{FR} 7a	Sport
10		★★ Darkness Falling Climb the corner groove and continue up the slab	{FR} 6a+	Sport 12m
11		★ The Brazillian Eliminate right of the corner	{FR} 7a	Sport
12		★ Igneous Intruder Middle line up the wall and smeary bulge then easy slab.	{FR} 6c+	Sport
13		Dosage Squeezed line to right with one very hard move off a one finger pocket	{FR} 7a+	Sport
14		★ Old Lawbreaker Start below the right hand arete on the slab and climb up to this then the slab left of the arete.	{FR} 6b	Sport 12m
15		★★ Wild Iris The blunt arete of the slab	{FR} 5c	Sport 12m
16		Yumrma	{FR} 5a	Sport 12m
17		Rapp Hell	{FR} 4c	Sport 12m
18		Solitary Soul	{FR} 6b	Sport 7m
19		Anarchic Law	{FR} 5b	Sport 7m

1.4.11. Traprain Law 34 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 55.962265, -2.671469

1.4.12. Balgone Heughs 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.032191, -2.702828

description

Bolted routes along a 15m high outcrop in a sheltered setting, only 25 minutes walk from North Berwick Law. bolts replaced on the majority of existing lines with 12mm glue ins and many new lines added Autumn 2013. More new lines added 2021/22.

approach

(56.039698, -2.694459)

1.5. Glasgow Outcrops 270 routes in Area

6 2 5 4 9 7 1 3 8

1 neilston quarry 2 Auchinstarry Quarry 3 Loudoun Hill 4 TCA Glasgow 5 Dumbarton Rock 6 Craigmore 7 Quadrocks 8 smugglers trail 9 Cuningar Loop

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 55.795123, -4.386258

1.5.1. neilston quarry 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.772070, -4.432944

summary

a quarry near neilston

description

2 faces, one about 10 meters, one about 15 meters

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		pinkertons corner	VD	Trad 10m
2		Pinkertons slab same as Pinkertons corner, except that you have to get onto the ledge from the right.	S	Trad 10m
3		willie's route	S	Trad 15m
4		right angled corner	D	Trad 10m
5		corner and groove	D	Trad 10m
6		flake route	VD	Trad 15m
7		corner arete	HS	Trad 10m
8		Kristen's crack	VD	Trad 10m
9		Ally's gash	HS	Trad 10m
10		Polish direct	HS	Trad
11		Juggy crack	VD	Trad 10m
12		strawberry direct	E2 6a	Trad 10m
13		★ strawberry crack	S	Trad 10m
14		spiney Boulder	VD	Trad 10m
15		easy gully	D	Trad 10m
16		broken arete	VD	Trad 10m
17		Y-crack	VD	Trad 10m
18		Stephen slab	HS	Trad 10m
19		crack corner	VD	Trad 10m
20		polish hangover	VS	Trad 10m
21		intrusion line	VD	Trad 10m
22		punk rock	HVS	Trad 15m
23		addendum	E1 5b	Trad 12m
24		curving crack	HVS	Trad 15m
25		twisted	E2 5c	Trad 12m
26		Fornication	VS 4c	Trad 15m
27		Hyper-reality	VS 4b	Trad 15m
28		grassy crack	S	Trad 15m
29		jig-saw jive	VD	Trad 15m
30		whitehorse rib	HS	Trad 15m
31		grit gully	M	Trad 10m

1.5.2. Auchinstarry Quarry 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.970377, -4.052310

1.5.2.1. Car Park Area & Promontory 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

This is the sector immediately facing the main road and the car park. Access to the top is via a path up the left-hand end through the gate.

1.5.2.2. Mascarade Buttress 1 route in Sector

Summary:

1.5.2.3. Amphitheatre 1 route in Sector

Summary:

1.5.2.4. Trundle Slab 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

This is the sector to the right of the distinctive square-section pinnacle at water level to the routes right of the big slab going all the way to the waterline.

1.5.3. Loudoun Hill 8 routes in Crag

1

1 the pulpit

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.615010, -4.211319