★★ Owl Rock West Crack 5.8

Morning shade, afternoon sun. Easy access. Sandstone is quite polished due to the high traffic, and the climbing a bit awkward in places. Make sure you look good, you'll be starring in 100's of tourist photos.

Climb follows the obvious crack on the western side, hand crack and jugs for most of the climb, albeit quite polished, it's well protected in the crack the whole way. The crux is about half way up past a bulge, some jamming required, then possibly a second crux towards the top as you're forced out left on to the face. Throughout, if you start to struggle to find the next big hold, reach high.

Three large bolt and chain belay under the summit, comfortable ledge, plenty of room for multiple climbers. It's then 8m of 4th class to the top, protected by 2 drilled pitons, it's worth belaying that for safety.

Descent: 1 x 60m rope reaches the base, you can angle your rappel to the side to allow other parties to climb the route.