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Glen Canyon

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 12
  • Ascents: 257
  • Aka: Glen Canyon Park
  • Aka: Glen Park

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Summary

By far the best outdoor area in San Francisco. Super convenient (10mins walk from Glen Park BART) and with unique rock.

Description

Despite getting panned in a lot of local guidebooks, 'Glen Canyon' is actually a great bouldering area for its size, particularly if you're willing to go beyond the obvious lines and holds, and start making up eliminates and variations (in which case you'll find that the main cliff band is an excellent training area, particularly for pinch and crimp strength).

The rock is unique and cool to climb on - radiolarian chert (ultra hard, cleanly layered sedimentary rock) that has been uplifted and deformed by California's famous tectonic activity. The rock fractures into very blocky square cut holds, creating the ubiquitous "incut jug slot". While the rock is generally solid, there are a few patches that have been deformed to the point of becoming choss, and holds can and do rip off in these sections.

Another unique feature are the ultra-polished sections (slickensides) - these are the surfaces of micro-faults that have been polished by millennia of sliding past each other.

Access issues

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

Approach

Many options, but the most straight forward for new visitors is to walk up through the canyon from the rec center end of the park (Elk St at Chenery - you'll walk up Chenery if coming from BART). Follow the gravel road north alongside Islais Creek or take one of the trails up the hillside to the right to get to the 'Hillside Boulders', 'Black Overhang' and 'Choss Buttress'.

The first boulders you'll see are the 'Hillside Boulders' up high on the right. Next are the 'Black Overhang' and 'Choss Buttress', also up to the right. Passing the preschool on the left you'll reach the "kung fu bridge" over the swamp. Legend has it that a famous Bruce Lee scene was filmed here, hence the name. After emerging from the willows, you'll see the 'Main Cliff Band' straight ahead up the hill; 'The Unnatural Act Cave' is partially obscured, directly above the 'Main Cliff Band'.

Please don't cut straight up the hill to the 'Main Cliff Band' - SF Rec & Park has spent a lot of time in recent years track building and stabilising the hillside, and the stairs leading up to the right double back straight to the crag, making shortcutting unnecessary.

'Dead Cat Rocks' is visible from the top of the 'Main Cliff Band', further up the canyon and on the opposite side of the creek. Climbing is prohibited here - please stay away to preserve good relations with SF Rec & Park. This outcrop is also overrun with poison oak, so pleasant climbing opportunities are very limited.

Ethic

There are no bolts of any kind, anywhere, nor do there need to be any. If you need a top rope, bring a rack and slings (there's great gear for most of the problems).

Stick to made tracks as much as possible.

Bring a plastic bag and spend 15 mins at the end of your session picking up the trash that non-climbers throw off the top - that helps keep the place open to climbing.

History

History timeline chart

The Sierra Club is known to have climbed here since the 1930s, and many famous climbers have paid their respects (Warren Harding), or made it their go-to Bay Area training ground (Chuck Clance, Mark Nicholas).

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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