Routes in Teddy Bear Cove

Find a thin seam between 2 roofs and follow it to corner system below the anchors.

Follow dark colored rock through two roofs that lead to a deep slot below the anchors.

Start left and behind a large juniper tree, follow a corner system in mostly tan rock to the anchors.

Start right of the juniper tree. Follow bolts through easy climbing to fun, steep double corner. Crank through interesting features to the anchors.

Scramble up to an obvious weakness in the roof band and pull the roof into heavily feature tan rock. Follow the corner system to the anchors.

Follow the weakness just to the left of a large double roof.

Work up to an obvious undercling and lieback around a huge flake.

Layback off the ground over a boulder and move up to a brown face that is easier than it looks. Great climbing into a shallow corner.

Climb up to an overhang with a small shelf and follow a left leaning overhanging corner to the anchors.

Carefully pull on fragile but cool hueco features to a stance below a steep headwall. Take good but thin crimps to the anchors.

Climb and stem up to a hand crack and follow the sharp hand crack to the anchors.

Climb up and right to a huge ledge and continue moving right to a steep fun finish.

Climb a corner with orange lichen to a stance below a steep brown face with right trending thin crack. Follow the crack and good pockets to the anchors.

Follow a corner to a bulge and pass the bulge by moving slightly right. Continue to the anchors.

Start in a shallow double dihedral to gain a ledge, make a hard move off the ledge to gain a left facing corner. Continue on sustained pockets to the anchors.

Follow cool hueco features up and right to balancy corner, move slightly right to gain a stance below the final headwall. Follow pockets and crimps to the anchors.

Directly behind the big juniper follow a weakness to deep double dihedral. Take the left side of the double corners to the anchors.

Climb up a crack to a right facing corner.

Hard, steep climbing off the ground leads to left leaning rail and a very hard pull onto a shelf. Move right then left up a tricky arete to the anchors.

Start in a left facing corner with excellent rock. A series of stout moves leads to finger crack through the bulge and a stance below a tree. Move up and right on slightly slabby rock with good pockets to the anchors.

Start interesting feature rock and move up into an overhanging left facing corner. Pull through the apex of the corner on pockets and move left to the finishing slap of 'Busted'. It's possible to avoid the crux and move left to the stance below slab. Still a nice climb but only 5.10 on this variation.

Climb up the left slide of a small pillar to a stance below a bulge. Move left on ok hands and horrible feet. Finish on a nice face following pockets and crimps to the cable anchor around the tree.

On the right side of the pillar move up to a thin crack and follow it through a bulge to a stance, move left on steep pockets to the anchors.

Face climb up to big roof and take the weakness to a left facing corner and the anchors.

Start in an orange corner and pull a tricky bulge, follow a crack system to the anchors.After another broken section, ~200 feet, there are a couple short routes.

Shares anchors with 'Yogi'

Shares anchors with 'Hey Hey Hey Boo-Boo'

Another broken start leads to a decent crack/corner system. Climb an overlap to a brown face and finish on the anchors of Watt's Up?.

Broken start leads to very shallow corner and a balancy brown face. Finish in a left facing leaning corner.

Climb up the broken section to flared finger jams up a shallow left facing corner, finish on a nice brown face.

After the broken start, pull into a very obvious left facing yellow dihedral with a beautiful hand/finger crack. Pull on to a stance and move right to a shallow brown corner with nice facing climbing to the anchors.

Broken start leads to a triangular flake and steep hand crack, 10

Left most route, after the common start move left to a blocky corner that leads to a clean crack through tan rock. Pass an overlap on the left and finish on brown rock and a shallow left facing corner.

Center route, climb through a steep bulge on big holds and finish in a very appealing right facing crux dihedral.

This is the right of 3 routes that share the same first 2 bolts. Move slightly right and up to a pillar like formation. Wrestle the pillar and step left avoiding a large bird nest. Finish on a discontinuous crack in excellent brown rock.

Climb up to the start of a white crack.Traverse left on small crimps to a blunt outside corner.Continue up on more small crimps.Thought to be possible 13.

Climb the corner system right of big graffiti ''JR'.Share a couple lie back moves with 'Barely Legal' then move left under a flake and small roof.Pull the roof and follow a crack to the next roof.Big moves up left through the roof.

Just left of the big cave with the huge fire ring, scramble up some blocks to a right facing corner with a lieback crack, move right a an undercling flake to gain another crack and pull a small bulge.Continue up a ramped corner to a huge roof.Pull the roof at it's weakest point and power through a blocky overhang on mostly big holds.Step left and finish on an easier face to the anchors.

Start on the right side of the large cave and fire pit.Climb up to a stance below and obvious smooth corner with a short jam/lieback crack.Struggle to the lip and do a burly pull onto a small ledge.Continue up two short overhanging corners two anchors on the rim.

Pull a small roof to a steep shallow corner with thin crimps.Crimp and stem to the right side of a large overhang.Climb the corner to a stance below the final face.

Stick climb the first bolt.Boulder up to the bulging hand crack, pull into the offwidth and exit right to ledge. Move left and climb a fun corner on excellent rock.

Stand on a small boulder under a roof and obvious hand crack and pull up on starting holds to gain a block.Use the block to gain the hand crack.Burly initial thin hands lead to more solid hands. Pull onto a ledge and gain the top of a small pillar.Pull on to a classic prow and face climb for 3 more bolts to the anchors.

Climb up sandy hueco's and make a thin move and long reach to a ledge. Follow steep rock to a final committing overhang.

Climb up featured grey rock with huecos and pull slightly left into a shallow corner below a small overlap.Continue up to an awkward clip at the anchors.FA Mike Engle, Terran Engle Sept 27 2016.

Start in the same corner as 'Buck Fever' and move right to an undercling below a big roof. Reach out and gain a series of hueco features and follow them up the overhanging arete until you can pull left onto the face. Continue on the arete up more moderate climbing to the anchors.

Climb up to the bottom of a large prow and move to the corner left of the prow on insecure liebacking. Once established in the corner follow the corner system to the anchors. Shares anchors with the 5.10 to the right.

Climb up to the bottom of a large prow and move right into a right facing corner. Stem, face climb and jam up to blocky small roof. Pull through and climb to the anchors.

Climb up tricky slab moves into a creamy colored right leaning double dihedral, stem up to the roof and move slightly left through the roof on mostly big holds. Excellent climb.

Boulder through a roof 8 ft above the ground and pull onto black slabby face with a right diagonalling crack. Face climb up to a blocky double overhang. Surprisingly tough crux pulling through the second overhang to the anchors.

Boulder through the right side of same roof near the ground as 'Slave Boy' do a hard pull onto the black slabby face. Dance through a tricky section with some rat poop and pull through the roof to a thin finish on excellent tan and brown rock.

Climb up featured rock to a major blocky roof and the pull through another small roof on thin tip jams to gain the anchors.

Start on a short vertical wall and pull onto a ledge. Continue on easy ground to a large roof and pull through with a tough barn door lie back to a stance just over the roof. Continue on steep terrain on good tan rock to a small roof at the top. Pass right pull up to the anchors.

Climb vertical grey rock to a ledge, continue on easy ground to the first of 3 roofs. A heal hook leads to a hard pull with a lot of body tension over the first roof. Pass the second roof on the left and continue up steep rock to the last roof. Pass it on the right and work up a corner to a horn like feature and a hard pull to the anchors.

Climb up to a hard pull through a bulge at mid height. One or two hard moves on an easier climb.

Climb tough opening moves up grey rock to a stance below a bulge. Stay left and pull the bulge.

Up grey rock to a stance below a bulge. Finish right.

Just left of 'Holey Roller', follow shallow corner and work the left arete until you can pull right through an overlap into another shallow corner system. Easier rock leads to the anchors.

Climb up and through an obvious thin finger crack. Look for a hidden hold that makes it slightly easier. Left route of 3 that goes to the same anchor.

Climb the left side of a prow through featured 'bubble rock' to a suspect looking flake. Take care not to snap it off and pull through to gain easier terrain to the anchors. Share last bolt with 'Holey Moley'.

Climb on the right side of a prow like formation with swiss cheese features.

Left hand of 3 routes on creamy colored at the far right side of the Caves area, just before the crag becomes to short.

Climb up and left to an undercling flake below a small roof.Move left out of the roof on underclings and gain small holds just above the lip.Crank through roof to the anchors.Short, powerful.

This is the middle of 3 routes on creamy colored at the far right side of Send Town, just before the crag becomes to short.

Right hand of 3 routes on creamy colored at the far right side of the Caves area, just before the crag becomes to short.

Climb the south side of the detached pillar. 2 bolts to sport anchor.

Climb the east face of the pillar.

Stem up the gap between the pillar and main wall. Finish on the 'Pillar Talk' anchors.The majority of the routes at The Sandbox start just right of the detached pillar. The south facing wall is characterized by short, hard routes on excellent stone. The wall gets taller to the right as the wall's aspect turns toward the southeast. The wall gets much taller but the good rock is guarded by a chossy band.

Just right of the pillar, face climb up to large roof just below the anchors.

Climb a right arcing tan crack featured with small finger pockets.

Climb a slabby move to a shelf and climb into a deep tan dihedral. Follow the dihedral to the top and move left to the anchors on 'Your Own Private 'Idaho''.

Climb another corner system to the right of 'Monkey Woman'.

The right hand route and another corner system. The previous 3 routes and this one share the shelf about 8 feet off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner and make a hard reach to a decent 3 finger pocket. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Start on brown rock and face climb into a nice and continuously thin shallow open book.

Start on creamy tan rock, pull through an overlap to a thin seam in a shallow corner. Climb up to the anchors situated in an alcove above a small roof.

Start in a creamy tan corner low to the ground and pull through a tough overlap on relatively big holds and follow a discontinuous slotted crack to the top on mostly brown rock. Decent hands and poor feet. Sustained and pumpy.

Hard boulder problem start on excellent rock. Pull past a flake, and slap left and crimp right to a small ledge. From the ledge follow good holds on solid brown rock in a shallow corner.

Hard opening moves with good feet and bad hands, leads to a shelf and easier, pleasant climbing up a white creamy face with pockets.

Start on slabby moves on a large detached flake. At the top of the flake, step across to the main wall and follow a featured blunt arete to the top.

Follow a crack in a brown corner to a ledge and finish on the last two bolts of No More Mr Nice Guy.

Jam up a steep thin hand crack in a white corner, gain a ledge and move right onto a face just left of a wide crack.

Scramble over some blocks down low to a flared hand crack. Continue up and slightly right to a splitter crack in a brown face.

Follow thin parallel cracks to a right facing corner until you can move left to the anchors of 'Feeling Frisky'.

Climb up to stance below an obvious blunt arete. Tricky face climbing right then left leads to a stance below deep short corner. Pull through the corner to a ledge and anchors below a tree on the rim.

Start on stacked blocks to gain a nice hand crack and follow it to the top.

-, after a brief chossy section, pull onto nice featured rock and work a seam and hueco's to roof with a triangular block at the lip, pull through and face climb to right side of a huge cap stone roof.

Climb 10 feet of chossy blocks to gain a tough thin hands crack and crank hard through a small overlap to fully gain the crack, continue to a ledge at 2/3 height and work slightly left up a tough face with a hard move at the anchors.

Work a corner/arete with the right hand and face climb with the left.

Climb up to a nice looking left facing corner with a couple welded in blocks at the bottom of the corner.

Trad

Take a decent start on mostly good rock to an overhanging handcrack in an obvious deep corner. Difficult moves to gain the anchors.

Follow the left side of ''Africa' to a steep headwall crack with fused, stacked blocks.

Climb the right side of an ''Africa' looking feature high on the crag.

Climb a slot through a small roof using face holds to the left. Continue up to the question mark feature and grovel up an offwidth or layback the edge and swing right onto the face. A couple finger jams leads to a stance and the anchors.

Scramble through brief easy choss to solid rock and a super fun right facing dihedral. Pull into a small stance follow good rock to the anchors.

Pull through most of the overhang on big holds and continue slightly left but mostly straight up to a crack/corner system. (Sport Anchor is missing a carabineer).

After the second bolt, face climb right over the bulge on thin edges and side-pulls. Finish on independent anchor.About 100 feet right of the JJ routes and just right of the detached pillar is a garbage pit from people tossing shit off the rim. This garbage will likely be gathered and burned this winter. The first of the next four routes starts directly over the garbage pit.

Climb through a rotten layer to a nice shield with an improbable feature in the middle of the shield.

Scramble up dirty corner until is possible to clip a bolt and pull right on to better rock. Continue up towards an overhang and pass it on the left. Continue up a nice corner to small triangular roof and pass this on the right to the anchors.