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Northern Formation

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 31

Seasonality

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Description

The first and most extensive of the 4 features on the East Peak of Mt Tamalpais. Bring lots of long slings, or better yet a second rope, for slinging blocks for an anchor. A small rack may also be useful - there are a few options for wires and cams.

Access issues inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Approach

From the carpark head up the boardwalk towards the summit, until you hit the first switchback (there are some prominent rocks here). The Northern Formation is located about 20m down from here, with access to the bottom to the right (facing out).

Routes

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Grade Route

A sun trap - this face can get very hot in summer, and has minimal shade at the base.

The left most line on the feature. Hard to top-rope from the same anchors as the other routes.

Up to the obvious overhanging block. Undercling right to join Sun Slab Center.

Up the blank bulgy wall between Sun Slab Undercling and Equinox. Harder & better if you avoid the large cracked hold to the left.

Reportedly there's a hard squeeze job between Sun Slab Center and Equinox, but it looks pretty blank.

The obvious crack.

A squeeze job up the steep prow 1' right of Equinox.

The groove / gully right of Equinox.

The prominent arete separating the South and East faces. Better if you stay just on the right hand side.

The featured slab left of the crack.

The crack in the middle of the East Face.

Over the bulgy block right of the crack on East Face Center.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 6 Jun
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