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Solarium

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 67

Seasonality

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Description

Mostly south-facing area just north (up-gorge, left when facing the wall) of the "Great Wall of China"

Approach

Central Gorge descent, up-gorge, cross river.

Routes

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Grade Route

This route contains both some amazing climbing at the grade and some of the most unpleasant choss in the gorge. An amazing choss pile that won't be to everyone's enjoyment but for those that like navigating loose rock while doing some nice climbing, get on this and contribute to the cleanup of what will inevitably become a classic.

A thin crux and a bit contrived, links with Venom eventually.

An area classic, considered stout at the grade especially for the tall. An extension continues above the anchor, adding some nice face climbing above but doesn't change the grade significantly.

Gripping slopey slab climbing.

Start left of the Black Hole chimney, up the crimpy face. Smile your way up lovely jugs through the steep roof and then climb carefully through some pretty bad rock in the top half. Great movement, but a few of those blocks and flakes aren't gonna be there forever. Leaders and belayers should wear helmets.

Start up awkward chimney to gain bolted crack. Climb up this to the right of the Focus anchor. Take a breather, extend the anchor (a lot) then quest out the steep headwall. Classic of the area.

FA: Tony Puppo & Grant Schumacher, 1994

Black Hole into Flux Capacitors redpoint crux. Climb the first 11 bolts of Black Hole then bust out right towards FC via an independent bolt. Either keep trending right to clip another FC bolt (and cop loads of drag) or boulder out above the independent link-up bolt. An awesome excursion linking all the best climbing on the wall.

FA: Peter Croft

A deadset forearm melter. Either climb the arete (10b) or Flux Direct (12b) to get to the FC headwall which can be identified by a lone fixed chain draw at the beginning of the steepness.

Alternate start to FC if you feel like really squeezing the juice out of your arms.

Super long enjoyable route up the left arete on the south face of the Solarium. Rap twice to get off.

Fun and varied climbing straight up the middle of the south face of the solarium to an independent anchor down and left of the Sendero anchor on the top right edge of the pink slab.

Awesome runout and engaging climbing up an easy juggy face to an arete up high, ultimately culminating in a worryingly slippery slab crux guarding the anchor.

Takes the direct line under the Sendero anchor.

Climb featured face diagonally up and left towards crack, then follow crack back rightwards to anchors.

Currently (fall 2013) loose, but should be a great climb once it cleans up.

Climb super polished, glassy slopers, clipping homemade hangers for @90ft.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 7 Jun
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