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The Infirmary

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Description

The perfect crag for a cold and sunny day with routes from easy to steep and long in the high 5.12 range. As so many crags at the Red it is crescent shaped with some part in the sun any time of the day.

Access issues inherited from Miller Fork Recreational Preserve

The RRGCC received grant money from the Access Fund to help make a $45,000 down payment, and has a plan in place to make five yearly mortgage payments of $40,000, after which the RRGCC will own the MFRP, securing climbing access on that land in perpetuity.

Approach

From the main parking area cross the creek and walk down the road until reaching the second road on the left. Walk down this road, passing the obvious trailhead on the right leading to Serenity Point, until reaching a road on the right which crosses a creek. This road is marked by a muddy parking area just before the main road angles right and continues uphill to the Deep End. Cross the creek and continue down this muddy road for about five minutes until the road severely breaks down near a stream. At his point look for a trail on the right which winds uphill to The Infirmary. You will meet up with the wall near a gigantic boulder and the route named Trephination.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

These climbs are on the left when you arrive, pass left of the big boulder to reach them.

The dirty crack on the slab with bolts higher up.

Overgrown crack.

These climbs start on the ledge.

FA: Matthew Seto & Sid Trogden, 2014

FA: Brent DuPree & Dustin Stephens, 2014

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

Starts on the right of the ledge.

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

These climbs start from the ground, just right of the ledge.

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

Starts right with the hueco.

FA: Dustin Stephens & Art Cammers, 2014

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014

Starts in the corner with the boulder and follows the arete. Has an extension.

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2015

The extension of Typhoid Mary - just continue past the anchor.

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2013

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

Shares the first 2 bolts with Push Present and then heads right.

These climbs start just right of the arete, where the ground drops down a bit.

Open project

Start in the corner / on the slab with some laybacking and work your way up on the slab before the steep fun begins.

FA: Kris Hampton & Mike Wheatley, 2014

Same start as Diminished Gluteal Syndrome. Trends right through steep jugs and all the way to the top. Perma-drawed.

FA: Dan McMahon & Dustin Stephens, 2014

FA: Dustin Stephens, 2014

FA: Dustin Stephen & Symon Ardila, 2015

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

Starts with the corner / crack and passes left through the roof.

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

FA: Scott Cooper & Linda Cooper, 2015

FA: Mike Wheatley, 2013

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Brendan Leader

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9780645299915

Onsight Photography:
Comprehensive Sport Climbing Crags of the Red River Gorge, Kentucky

The Red River Gorge in Kentucky is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the world and the 2nd edition of The Red guidebook has all the info you need to plan your next climbing adventure.

  • 2nd edition adds 245 new climbs, 4 brand new crags, fresh action shots, additional topo shots and maps plus improvements to overall usability
  • Includes details and descriptions of 2,586 routes and 106 crags

Author(s): Dario Ventura and Mike Williams

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393327

Wolverine :
Selected from the area's more than 3,000 routes across 54 crags, Red River George Select presents enough classics to fill a lifetime of weekend climbing fun in Kentucky.
  • Index of classic routes highlights the grade of each climb and indicates if the climb is better suited to sport or trad climbing
  • Helpful icons help you plan your day with driving times, walking times, sun exposure, rain protection and kid-friendliness
  • GPS coordinates and detailed directions help you find your destination easily

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 8 Jun
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