Lost City is a semi-secret crag within the Mohonk Preserve.
The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.
The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.
Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.
Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!
Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.
Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.
Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.
Accessed from the Coxing Trailhead
The crag is traditionally undocumented. No guidebooks are published about it, and all information about climbs has been removed from sites like Mountain Project and RockClimbing.com.
The stated intent is to preserve a spirit of adventure and solitude (though it also keeps crowds away and preserves parking spots for non-climbers). Info about the crag is meant to be obtained through word-of-mouth from people in the community.
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Andy Salo, Christian Fraccia and Eric Ratkowski
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9781938393389
Spend less time searching, and more time pulling overhangs, plugging cams and chasing your own piece of history with Gunks Climbing, a full-color, modern guidebook to the region's climbs.
Author(s): Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9781938393310
Author(s): Tim Kemple
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9781938393303
From the granite blocks of Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, to the schist of Smugglers' Notch, Vermont, you're bound to find your next problem in the New England Bouldering guidebook.
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