Cocaine Gully Mostly Sport climbing 33 routes in area

Just uphill from Freebase, this route is great fun on little pinchers. If you enjoyed Chicken McNuggets, you'll enjoy this one. It's a nice test of strategic resting - bad rhythm will get you all pumped out. Expect it to be pleasantly stiff for the grade.

A Smith classic with bomber, vertical stone and excellent, consistently engaging and committing climbing. After a mid-height technical crux this route turns to sweet reaches between incut crimps. The good climbing seems to go on forever!

Stick clip the first, a fall from here would be a catastrophic tumble down a rocky gully.

There is a bolt in the wall for the belayer to clip into - strongly recommended (a couple extra slings and carabiners will make this a bit easier)

A classic 5.11 pump-a-thon. A stick-clip is recommended to clip the first bolt to protect the insecure and overhanging first moves. The climbing is steep and consistent with a crux coming in the middle, but the pump combined with an odd finger-crack sequence will send many climbers for a ride near the top.

Tough lie back to start then soe excellent Smith Rock nubbin climbing. There is a loose hold below the first bolt, so be careful if you have not stick clipped.