★★ East Ridge 5.4

The first 4m is the crux at 5.4, then mainly 3rd and 4th class to the top, well protected with bolts, almost a sport route except for the first 4m.

Make your way to the base of the east ridge, the start is just on the south side.

CAUTION - numerous sightings of rattlesnakes bathing in the sun at the base.

1. 30m, 5.4, climb the crack/flake, 2 good hand holds, can place a cam at each. This places you on a shoulder with the first bolt, extend with a long sling. It's the 3rd and 4th class past a couple of bolts, with a final little step before the below, maybe 5.0? Belay on large ledge with 2 bolts, 1 has a rappel chain.

2. 29m, 5.4, straight up the ridge, well protected with bolts, 3rd class at first, then steepens. Perhaps a second crux of 5.4 friction for 4m between bolts, but, you can step right and walk up moki steps. Belay on ledge with 2 bolts and rappel chains.

3. 30m? 4th class, a bolt is up and left to show the way, walk up to double bolts and belay. Note, the free-hanging rappel anchor is about 10m to the left of the last belay (looking up) in an alcove.

Walk up to the summit and enjoy the desert panorama.

Descent:

Option 1: 35m free hanging rappel, the anchor is in an alcove 10m south of P3 belay. You abseil through an arch. Once down, you can walk up to a higher ledge, re-attach to the rope and swing out - it seems to cause a lot of wear to the rock beside the anchor and presumably rope too.

Option 2: Walk down to the top of P2, rappel the route with a single 60m rope.

Option 3: Walk down to the top of P2, rappel off the northern side with 2 ropes. You'll need to walk out from the base a fair way to reduce friction and pull your ropes.