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Lower Left Wall

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Climb the first pitch of Pleasant Street, and from the tree, get over the lip and onto the dike on the right. Follow the not so obvious first moves toward the very obvious left slanting crack.

The first pitch (5.6 R) is a good mental test for the leader on the unprotected but beatiful slab/dike.

The second pitch (5.8) is a must-do for any crack climber, and everyone else. The well protected crack offers perfect conditions to practice jams, calf endurance and pain tolerance (tapping might be a good idea, although not necessary). Be ready to experience the polished slab that offers slippery foot placements and weird-angled hand jams before going up and on the small slab/crimps crux at the end, before enjoying the bliss of a good belay and a wonderful view at the top, while you recover from the experience!

Use the obvious corner/crack just left of Fun House to reach a ledge, and then continu on the same line as for Fun House.

The route is all stemming and jamming. Steady and steep, it is very fun and well protected (bring #1 to 4 cams if you want to climb with a peaceful mind). The crux is the end, where you have to step up and left out of the corner and mantle your way to the ledge.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Kemple

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393303

From the granite blocks of Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, to the schist of Smugglers' Notch, Vermont, you're bound to find your next problem in the New England Bouldering guidebook.

  • Comprehensive, revised 3rd edition features more than 1,200 boulder problems at some of the best bouldering areas throughout New England
  • Detailed maps help you find your next bouldering challenge with ease

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Tue 6 Jun
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