Routes in White Mountains for selected grade

A good rewarding, though not sustained route up the slabs. There are but a few moves of 5.5, and only a few sections of 5.4 climbing -- most of the climbing is 5.3 and easier. But, often with long run-outs at the easier grades, requiring confident leading at that grade. The "Standard Route" is a better-protected choice.

Start below a large isolated pine tree about 35m up near the right side of the slabs.

1. 120ft (5.2). Climb the easy slab to a 2 ring-bolt anchor left of the pine tree.

2. 140ft (5.4) From the anchor follow a vertical crack over the left side of an overlap, then up a narrow vertical dike up a steeper slab past 2 bolts to a small stance with 2 ring-bolts on the left.

3. 110ft (5.1 R). Continue up an easy low-angled groove to another double-bolt anchor.

4. 90ft (5.2) Follow a prominent right-slanting arch until it ends at a double-bolt anchor above a small flake.

5. 140ft (5.5, 5.4R) Step up from the anchor through the headwall (5.5) then up and left (5.4 R) to and past a few hidden pockets (gear!) then up to a Grinch-face belay ledge with double-bolt anchor.

6. 100ft (5.4). Go up and right into a left-facing groove with a lay-back flake, then up the flake for about 50ft. Then step up and right, then up a 20-foot head wall with old pitons. Belay on a good ledge just above the head wall , and below the last big overlap.

7. 100ft (5.3). Traverse left from the anchor past a detach block to a gently rising ramp, then past an old bolt (good for route-finding an keep the rope off the ledge, but wouldn't trust it to catch a fall). Continue until you can break right on good holds through the overlap then up to a tree anchor.

8. 4th class. Follow the obvious dike up the next section of slab.

9. 4th class (one 5.1 move). Follow the dike diagonally up and right through the next section of slab.

10. 4th class (a couple 5.0 moves). Friction up the easy slab to the summit. One slightly steep friction section.

The last three pitches are usually climbed un-roped as a scramble.

This climbs the obvious right-facing arch up the cliff, then up through (crux) overlaps and finishing on the upper slabs. From near the center base of the slabs:

Pitch 0: 45m (5.0?) Scramble 150ft up an easy depression to the starting ledge.

1. 24m (5.3) From the right end of the starting ledge, friction up and right to a large pothole called the Toilet Bowl. Two bolt anchor. (Be careful, the bowl is often wet inside, where you stand... and leading friction with wet shoes is exciting.)

2. 27m (5.2) Up and left past a flake to good ledges at the base of the obvious arch. Double ring bolt anchor.

3. 42m (5.4) Climb up the arch, gentle laybacks to a possible piton & gear semi-hanging belay. (Or combine with next pitch on a 70m rope.)

4. 28m (5.2) Continue up and right along the arch and up easy slabs to a sloping belay stance on fixed slings around a natural thread anchor.

5. 44m (5.3) Continue up easy slabs up and right to the end of the arch, then up easy climbing at the natural break in the head wall to the Lunch Ledge. 2 Bolt anchor.

6. 45m (5.5) The crux pitch: up 15' from the right end of the Lunch Ledge, one friction move right to a bolt, down climb a ramp for 10', step right onto a brownish spot foothold, to another bolt, then delicate slab onto a left-diaganolling ramp. Possibly belay here (rope-drag issues later) or continue up the ramp to a short layback corner. (Nut anchor.)

7. 25m (5.2) Friction 40' left traversing an easy slab beneath an overlap to an easy dike, then up to the comfortable ledge above. (Tree belay, or nut.)

8. 43m (5.2 or 5.5). Follow the easy, stepped, dike up to the left of a tree to an overlap, bypass on the left to a tree ledge (5.2 R) or climb directly over the ledge at a double crack (protectable, one 5.5 move).

9. 70m (5.2 R) Finish up the upper slabs to trees, following either of the two upper dikes. The easier is up the left-hand that has a bolt without hangar visible from the belay, and then a second later bolt. (With less than a 70m rope, either belay somewhere, possible the bolt, possibly the later gear placement, or possibly trees off to the left about 2/3 way up -- or simul-climb for a bit.)

Walk off to the (climber's) right.