Routes as trad in Jordan

Trad up the crack.

Trad line unsure of where it is.

Trad line. Potentially has one bolt at the top.

solo

450m (horizontally) dry canyon

• Approach from the street walk around a 100m, climb a little 6m boulder.

• 25m (4a climb) hard to protect (nuts)

• Climb few easy boulders (3-7m) pass side to a little tiny water lake

• Very very nice secure chimney (5a), 25m, hard to protect (thread, .5, .75 cams)

• Boulders and walk again in a corridor for a 100m

• Climb the Crux 5c, 30m, chimney, ok protection (.4 - 4 cams, threads, nuts), rock can be loose in some sections.

All the climbs have very good 2 glue-ins at the end (The quick links are not certified, good for static loads only)

Decent, you can walk off north and down all the way back to dead sea street, or walk south up to panorama st. But it's more enjoyable to just reverse the route.

only top anchor consisting of 2 bolts with traditional rock stairs

solo downclimb

solo

solo downclimb

pitons + slings are needed

linea trad in fessura non chiodata con sosta a spit

5b 6b 5c

6a 5b 6b+

5a 5b 6c+ 6a+: climb airyly to the first bolt

6a 5a 4b 6b 6a+

beautiful line, mixed between bolts and trad. very solid rock. abseiling notes : from the 4th anchor going down to the 3rd, go to the left not through the over hang its 40 meters long , then 3rd anchor there is only one bolt and two rings to go all the way down at least 50-60 meter long abseil

Each pitch around 50m, starting left of a tree then trending right to a ledge, then up to the left side of the 'mouth'. Climb up to follow the left side of the 'nose' then right above the right 'eye' and the overhanging 'eyelid' to the summit slabs, left of the gully. Enjoyable and well-protected (bolts, threads and trad pro).

Descent Walk off to the NW, veering left and down a well-cairned fairytale-type rock garden where beautiful mosaic-type rock provides an added bonus to the day. (Would be a very nice scramble in ascent.)

Location: Sig Bajeah or Baaga or Ba Ja is a dark slot canyon well known to locals in Little Petra. Without assistance, it may be difficult to locate this area. The rock is consistently the best quality I ever experienced in Jordan.

Three pitches. A really enjoyable route on excellent black sandstone which follows hand cracks interspersed with overhanging features sporting huge patina holds providing a fun excursion. Bolt belays. Descent Walk to the W (towards the valley) on a huge ledge then abseil to the ground.

A good adventure; a striking N facing blunt arête goes in four 40m pitches with trad pro and on good rock to the summit.

Approach via the little valley where Little Petra is situated, their are Bedouin encampments and sheep herders everywhere and most will know the mountain by its name Jebel Alzrb.

Start a short ways from the stream bed up some easy slabs. The 2nd f6b pitch can be easily aided c0 to make it 5a.

Descent Initially easy to the S, down the far side to rappel anchors.

You need a full rack and especially size 5 on the 3rd pitch.

Bolted stations location : (30.21546, 35.41651)

Access: you go down from rajef village to this gpx point (30.21009, 35.41773) then go down on side canyon that's connect with atajra canyon untill reach this gpx point (30.21546, 35.41651) this is the start point for green shirt also.

P1: Shared pitch with green shirt you can use existing statio

P2: traverse after finish first pitch go direct left up to juniper tree (عرعر) you will find a thread behind crack

P3: Straight up you need size 3 can for crack little bit soft stone when you finish you will find bolt to traverse left for station and you will find thread behind crack

P4: Go back to crack or climb the face of crack you will find thread when you finish will find a column and 2 juniper tree use second one for station

P5: If you have enough experience you can just do it buy using short rope technics

After you just walk 15 min to car you will find in the way up old ruins

Locatedinrajefareawadialmaite in this location ("30°12′59.55′′N35°25′00.33′′E).

P1: Scrambling, you can use some protection, loose rocks be careful of people below.

P2: Good rockquality, you need normaltradrackyouwillfinda silverpiton5meterbelowstationenditwasamistakefrommetoputitonjustuseitifyou wantandcompleteup5meterforniceledge Thirdpitch:5c30metergrad5closerockinhardsectionafteryouwillfindanicecavethatyou canmakestationbehinditandcompletewalkingfromtheretoyourcarorcamp

6b or 5c A1.

Descent: Rappel "Boules Brunes".

From the car park follow the Jebal with lots of cairns from the south ridge all the way to the peak. Nice V2 boulder at the peak to reach the very top point.

Descent: Reverse the way or better continue down the north ridge to the shoulder above the col between Wadi Es-Sid and Wadi Sbakh (Rakabat Es-sid), then go back through Sbakh.

2-3 hours.

Topo: Howard guidebook #5.

Topo: Howard guidebook #10.

Topo: Howard guidebook #11.

Topo: Howard guidebook #12.

Topo: Howard guidebook #13.

Topo: Howard guidebook #18.

Topo: Howard guidebook #19.

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

8. f3

9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

Topo: Howard guidebook #26.

The obvious crack in the north face of Abu Maileh Tower. Approach up Wadi S.Bach. A little harder than the guidebook grades.

1. Scramble up to a ledge with big boulders.

2. Awkward moves into a cave, pull through overhang with good holds.

3. Two grovely corners.

4. Slab then layback on sandy open holds.

Descent: 2 rappels, 50m each, down the right side of the route. 1st from big boulder on the right. 2nd from belay at the top of pitch 2.

Topo: Howard guidebook #28.

Above the Champs-Élysées ledge, they joined Ramedame (Remy-Remy, 1986) and followed this route for another six pitches (up to 6b) to the top. They placed 11 protection bolts on the new pitches and outfitted the belays with anchor bolts.

Article. Video. AAC article with topo.

#33

#32. Crazy exit.

#31.

#30. 6c or 6a A1.

#29

Timing: Allow for a long day, more if you get lost, which you probably might, more if you want to take it easy and have a break or two. If you are a super-duper mountain guide then perhaps the guide book time of 3-4 hours is achievable.

Sun / Temperature: In August it was bearable with shady belays, but starting in the dark could help.

Gear: Expect rope drag, Cams up to Camalot 3. Some belay stations are bolted. The abseil from the plateau (Hammads ridge) back down to the traverse is about 50m.

Route

• From the village head towards Jebel Rum and take the steps up to Lawrence’s well. Turn right in the minty area and head up the gully.
• After passing between large boulders, towards the top of the gully on the right hand side there will be a rock ramp heading up but facing down the gully (grade 3/4). Someone has also scratched an arrow into the face at the bottom. (Between 40 mins and 1 hour from the village.)

• Traverse the ledge and scramble up

  1. f5- large diagonal crack in the wall, 50m.
• From the shelf traverse a little bit to the right and then head up the plateau (Hammads ridge),look out for a repel station on your right as you climb.
• On the plateau, head left
• find a straight, long and narrow walled chimney/gully that heads to the great siq floor and descend.
• Go east through the great siq with a rappel and two short problems, 2nd being about f5 6m and unprotectable.

• After the 2nd problem you will be at the base of the eye (3 - 4 hours from the village).

  1. f5- wide crack about 50m.

  2. 50m, f5- starts with a tricky chimney

  3. 40m f4 climb the ramp

  4. traverse across to the base of the eye, f3.

  5. Pitch 5 of the main route, climb the slab (and or crack / chimney), in the guide book it is f3 however there are some very tricky sections, with maybe the hardest move of the route, 40m. You are now in the eye.

Descent.

Reverse route about 6 repels to the base, back up through the siq and back up the chimney to hammads ridge. Two options exist from here.

Descent alt. Alternative abseil descent, down jebel rum east face and route mumkin. Somewhat complicated and easy to make mistakes. - 50m From the eye rap diagonally back to below the start of the final pitch. - 25m, hidden. - 50m, heading more east to big ledge at the side of the big black slab - 50m, down big black slab - 50m, - 15m, traversing climbers right, don't go down the gully. - Easy walk through sand to Mumkin abseils.

For more details see http://kbecan.blogspot.com/2014/02/welcome-to-jordan.html

Topo: Howard guidebook #57.

#40

Probably the best rock on Jebel Rum. Starts some meter left of 'Towering Inferno'

Topo

Phototopo by Tobias Wolf

Gear

• 2x 60m Rope
• 14 Quickdraws
• 3x 1,20m Slings
• 3x BD Cams 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 or Metolius Mastercams 1, 2, 3

Source Arnaud Petit

#39. Extends Inferno all the way to the summit, finishing up the final huge chimney of 'Inshallah factor'.

#38

#37

mainly sport but trad finish with raid mit the camel

Bolts in difficult sections, making the first 4 pitches sport climbing-like. Need to protect in others.

#36

#35

#34

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.

A nice corner just left from Inferno. Ends with traverse right to the Inferno bolt and abseils via it. Few bolts included.

Topos: Howard guidebook #45. First 5 pitches of "Towering Inferno"

1. 5c wide crack to your right, and a hidden crack to your left, committing, with a slight overhang move at the end.

2. Climb straight up left wide crack, a bit hard to protect, chimney on the edges, use left face and body jam finding protection inside, good news ! you reach a station of 4 bolt!!

3. Same style a bit easier

4. The crux (Or not !) a traverse left to get to inferno line, that can be easy if you find the right line.

Form here you can try the 6a inferno pitch or just go down on inferno stations

Powerful archetypal laybackig and jamming.

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

First 4 pitches of "The Inshallah Factor".

First 4 pitches of "Aquarius".

Soft rock that comes out in chunks! Not great quality and SCARY we bailed after 2 pitches.

Bedouin Route. Howard guidebook #60. Summitpost route description with satellite picture. Topo.

350m in Total

It is possible to climb the first 5 pitches (100m) of 'Coup Par Coup' as an alternative to the final section of the approach, and then start 'The Pillar of Wisdom'

Topos: Howard guidebook #65. & Verticalpirate.

Topos: Howard guidebook #66 Graded TD: Tres Difficile/very difficult (Alpine grade)

Bedouin route up the canyon to the summit. Takes the right side of the canyon.

Bedouin route up the canyon to the summit. 2000 years old. Takes the left side of the canyon.

The first recorded route in Rum, by wife and daughter of Tom Longstaff. Ascends the W side of Jebel Rum, Jordan. About 2km

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

Direct line up the main crack system. Classic of the area, sustained climbing with scrambly finish.

on Abu Aina Towers finished with lion heart

Mixed, Trad and Bolted with glue-ins

6a|bb+|6a|6a|6b|6a

Connects all the way to Jabal Um ishreen highest peak (1753m only one meter less than Jabal Rum peak, or so says the maps). All beduine style, with one section of 3 pitches described below...

Follow the rocky valley up NNW, till you reach a view toward the rest of the valley seeing the slabs facing W.

You go down the gully, jumping over some beduine steps, then taking the first siq/chemeny left then climb zigzag north again till you reach the ledge, there a short 5m problem to a thread to reach the bottom of the slabs where the 3 climbing pitches are:

• 3 slab, ~35m to a bolted belay visible from the ledge (could be soloed)
• 5 slab ~25m (threads and pitons in places) to threads on the top
• 5 Short traverse ~10m left, a scary exposed one reachy/overhang move (with knifed crimp on the left side), poor protection.

From there you put your rope away and enjoy the route-finding challenge all the way to the peak going SWW, crossing the canyon from the west end where it's not very deep, then going all the way south to a gully taking directly to the peak, Cairns exist here and there.

Descent: Reverse the way, on the 3 pitchs one 60m rap to the middle of the 3-graded slab then carefully slide down, or reverse the 3 pitches down climbing first one from the top is possible. One more possible short rap in small Siq if you go a little deeper inside.

Update July 2020: Islam Maani added a new thread, making the scary exposed traverse way less scary, inspect and replace if needed, might need a 30cm metal wire to be able to rethread.

On the outer east face, not in the canyon but in wadi Um Ishrin, decent walk off following cairns back into canyon.

Up from the canyon to the ridge. Descent is by following the ridge and then down a gully.

rap descent

a system of chimneys, Descent is by rappelling and downclimbing into the canyon.