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Routes as trad in Jordan

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 190 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
6a Rain in the Desert

Difficult and long abseil!

Trad Wadi Rum
5+ Black Magic
1 5
2 2
3 5
4 5+
5 5
6 5+
7 5
8 4
9 3

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

  1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

  2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

  3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

  4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

  5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

  6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

  7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

  8. f3

  9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

FA: Tony Howard, Wilfried Colonna, di taylor, a baker, M Shaw, A Baker & Di Taylor, 1985

Trad 300m, 9 Wadi Rum
5b Mira Khoury

Topo: Howard guidebook #26.

Trad 300m, 11 Wadi Rum
5 The Eye of Allah
1 5a
2 5a
3 5a
4 4
5 3
6 5

Timing: Allow for a long day, more if you get lost, which you probably might, more if you want to take it easy and have a break or two. If you are a super-duper mountain guide then perhaps the guide book time of 3-4 hours is achievable.

Sun / Temperature: In August it was bearable with shady belays, but starting in the dark could help.

Gear: Expect rope drag, Cams up to Camalot 3. Some belay stations are bolted. The abseil from the plateau (Hammads ridge) back down to the traverse is about 50m.

Route

  • From the village head towards Jebel Rum and take the steps up to Lawrence’s well. Turn right in the minty area and head up the gully.
  • After passing between large boulders, towards the top of the gully on the right hand side there will be a rock ramp heading up but facing down the gully (grade 3/4). Someone has also scratched an arrow into the face at the bottom. (Between 40 mins and 1 hour from the village.)
  • Traverse the ledge and scramble up

    1. f5- large diagonal crack in the wall, 50m.
  • From the shelf traverse a little bit to the right and then head up the plateau (Hammads ridge),look out for a repel station on your right as you climb.
  • On the plateau, head left
  • find a straight, long and narrow walled chimney/gully that heads to the great siq floor and descend.
  • Go east through the great siq with a rappel and two short problems, 2nd being about f5 6m and unprotectable.
  • After the 2nd problem you will be at the base of the eye (3 - 4 hours from the village).

    1. f5- wide crack about 50m.

    2. 50m, f5- starts with a tricky chimney

    3. 40m f4 climb the ramp

    4. traverse across to the base of the eye, f3.

    5. Pitch 5 of the main route, climb the slab (and or crack / chimney), in the guide book it is f3 however there are some very tricky sections, with maybe the hardest move of the route, 40m. You are now in the eye.

Descent.

Reverse route about 6 repels to the base, back up through the siq and back up the chimney to hammads ridge. Two options exist from here.

Descent alt. Alternative abseil descent, down jebel rum east face and route mumkin. Somewhat complicated and easy to make mistakes. - 50m From the eye rap diagonally back to below the start of the final pitch. - 25m, hidden. - 50m, heading more east to big ledge at the side of the big black slab - 50m, down big black slab - 50m, - 15m, traversing climbers right, don't go down the gully. - Easy walk through sand to Mumkin abseils.

For more details see http://kbecan.blogspot.com/2014/02/welcome-to-jordan.html

Topo: Howard guidebook #57.

FA: 1984

Trad 400m, 6 Wadi Rum
5+ The Great Siq Route
1 5
2 5+
3 5

FA: Tony Howard & di taylor, 1988

Trad 120m, 3 Wadi Rum
6a Live and Let Die
1 3
2 4
3 5+
4 4
5 6a
Trad 5 Wadi Rum
5c Goldfinger
1 4c
2 5c
3 5b

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

FA: Wilfried Colonna & G. Claye, 1986

Trad 150m, 3 Wadi Rum
6b Inferno
1 5+
2 6b
3 5
4 5
5 6a

Topos: Howard guidebook #45. First 5 pitches of "Towering Inferno"

FA: Di Taylor, Wilf Colonna & Tony Howard, 1986

Trad 130m, 5 Wadi Rum
5+ Mumkin
1 5 15m
2 5+ 25m
3 5 25m
4 5+ 25m
5 5 35m

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.

FA: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 1986

Trad 130m, 5 Wadi Rum
7a Ride Mit Camel

Soft rock that comes out in chunks! Not great quality and SCARY we bailed after 2 pitches.

Trad Wadi Rum
5b L'apéritif
1 5b
2 5a
3 4
4 3
5 4

A great climb with a tricky hand/fingers crack and an airy second pitch. The climb twists and turns a lot.

Time: About 4 hours up and down. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance.

Gear: A full rack.

  • P1 f5: Scramble up the ramp, climb the hand/finger crack and question your ability to jam and balance. Belay under the small roof from the big thread.
  • P2 f-5: Head up to the left where the crack widens and you feel the air between your legs. Reach a bulge with no hand holds, heading right to a sheltered section and up the slab.
  • P3 f4: Pull over a jagged corner/crack head up more slab. Careful your ropes don't get stuck in the crack here as you climb. Head right to the summit.

Descent.

Walk off to the opposite side, repel to reach the valley floor where crack in the back is.

Trad 150m, 5 Wadi Rum
6b Troubador
1 5
2 6b

Powerful archetypal laybackig and jamming.

FA: 1986

Trad 2 Wadi Rum
6b The Beauty
1 5c 30m
2 6a 25m
3 5c 25m
4 6b 35m
5 5c 20m
6 4a 50m

A mega classic, the first 3 pitches are pure quality with interesting sustained climbing. Pitch 4 can be either direct (6b), or down then up the chimney (5). Needs large cams (camalot 5 or 6) for the upper offwidth pitches, double if you want to feel secure. Bolted Anchors. Upper pitches get sun earlier than lower.

  1. 5c layback getting steeper, green cams for the top.

  2. 6a twin cracks

  3. 5c layback

  4. 6b direct using peg or 5 going down into then up the chimney (loose blocks on top)

  5. 5c

  6. 4a

Descent: Rap via the route.

FA: Wilfried Colonna & alan baker, 1985

Trad 190m, 6 Wadi Rum
6a+ Merlins Wand
1 5+
2 6a
3 6a+
4 5+
5 5

Superb! Very famous route inspired by american crack climbs (Indian Creek or Red Rocks). However it is also possible to face climb and stem using the patina. Large cams desirable (#4 and 5#) to protect one or two locations. North facing but did get the sun around midday in summer. Descent: Repel via route.

FA: W.Collona & A.Howard, 1986

Maint: Feb 2020

Trad 150m, 5 Wadi Rum
6a V Shmal

Trad up the crack.

FA: HT

Trad 15m Cinema
4c 19
Trad 10m Sami’s cliff
4b Les Pirates

Set: Wilfried Colonna

Trad 100m, 4 Wieda Slabs
4c - 5a Moby Dick

pitons + slings are needed

Set: Wilfried Colonna

Trad 110m, 4 Wieda Slabs
4c shoes crack

linea trad in fessura non chiodata con sosta a spit

Set: Italian Alphine Club

Trad Tafilah | shubak
5b Nameless

Set: Italine Alphine club

Trad 20m Tafilah | shubak
5b Lam Tantahi
Trad Tafilah | shubak
6b Via bottiglia

5b 6b 5c

Trad 3 Tafilah | shubak
6b+ Lizard Blu

6a 5b 6b+

Trad 3 Tafilah | shubak
6c+ zio cammello

5a 5b 6c+ 6a+: climb airyly to the first bolt

Trad 4 Tafilah | shubak
6b zizzagando

6a 5a 4b 6b 6a+

Trad 4 Tafilah | shubak
2 Intro Wall

solo

FA: Tony Howard

Trad 15m Iraq al Damaj
5 The fickle finger

Trad line. Potentially has one bolt at the top.

FA: tony howard

Trad 15m Iraq al Damaj
4 Time's Up

Trad line unsure of where it is.

FA: Tony Howard

Trad 15m Iraq al Damaj
4 The good the bad the ugly

More of a scramble than a climb. A gentle morning out. Situated on the west face. Looks like it has not been climbed all that much so there is brittle rock all over. The guide book gives this route a grade f5 however it didn't seem like that, so we might have been off route.

Gear: Hardly any as there is either no point placing anything or you can't. A hand full of mid sized cams. Slings useful. Final abseil is about 60m.

Time: 4 hours up and down taking it very easy.

  • Pitch 1 f4: The climb starts to the left of all the vertical cracks which lead to the mushroom overhang. There is a less than vertical gully. Climb this, unprotectable (or pointless to protect) for about 50m till you reach a short 2m face. Belay from above the face.
  • Pitch 2 to summit, f3: Heading practically straight up the ramps. There is no massive need to do any pitched climbing if you don't want to as you can walk around any problems, but if you enjoy building anchors you can.

Descent.

Walk back down keeping a little bit to left of the route as it's less steep. 20 meters of so before the first belay head right and into the next big gully. The guide book mentions a hidden abseil. We didn't see any evidence, but set up an abseil on a big thread and went down the face, to the floor (approx 60m).

Trad 4 Wadi Rum
4 Crack in the back

A big jaggedy crack of variable width and creative protection. Guide book says it's a f4 but it could feel harder if your not used to the awkward style.

Time: 4 hours up and down, if you know where you're going 2 hours. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance.

Gear: Full rack.

  • P1 f-5: Straight up the crack, Reaching a small ledge/cave on the right with a big thread (40m).
  • P2 f4: Exit the cave back into the crack where it opens up more, with bridging and standing on what could be brittle spikes and flakes. Belay from a big flat ledge with a roof on the right just before the crack opens and flattens out
  • P3 f3: Climb / traverse right to reach a bigger plateau (limited useful protection).
  • P4 f3: Optional, scramble to the summit. If not head up right to the ridge line.

Descent.

Follow the ridge line steeply down generally staying on the right side snaking back and forth. There will be some down climbing and maybe some cairns. Eventually trending more to the right, heading for the canyon crossroad. It is possible to get down without abseiling.

Trad 3 Wadi Rum
5 Essence of rum

A tough first pitch and an exposed hard to protect but fairly easy 2nd pitch.

Approach: From the east entrance to Rakabat canyon just after the under/over boulder scramble up the ramp to the first pitch. About 20-40 mins from rakabat east entrance.

Gear: A full rack.

Time: Roughly 4 hours up and down.

  • Pitch 1 f5: Head straight up pulling over the bulge to poor holds.
  • Pitch 2 f5-: Head up the slab hard to protect. There is a big flake on the right side wall don't use it sounds very hollow. Head to the corner on the left.
  • Pitch 3 f4: From the corner cruise up the ramp to the mini summit.

Decent.

Using the tat on the huge blocks head down the other face into the gully. Walk down the gully a bit and find the abseil about midway in it back to the start.

Trad 3 Wadi Rum
PD Sabbahs Route (Beduine Route)

An enjoyable scramble up to the summit with some short exposed sections.

Approach: East face of Kazali. THere is a big black wall on the left and a small camp in the canyon.

Route:

Follow the cairns Blue dots run out towards the top. Climbing ability required in very short parts, with moves of 5- requires some experience and confidence. Route finding on the top gets harder as it becomes more meandering and less direct around the domes.

Descent via accent.

Time: 2 hours up and 2 hours down, taking it easy.

Better to do this route with a local beduine guide, route finding can be tricky

FA: Sabbah Ateeq (Beduine)

Trad Wadi Rum
5c+ Runner Up
1 5b
2 5a
3 5c+

Follows a big corner on the left, bolted stations but trad on the route, consistent climbing with a couple of fun crux problems on pitch 3. Possible to walk off and descend along the ridgeline at climbers right (45 mins) but not worth it and a bit hairy. Abseil descent recommended, but you will need two ropes or an 80m!

  • P1 5a/5b ~30m; climb either the corner or the face, has some hollow sounding flakes. Sustained and tense for a warm up. Bolted belay inside the corner.
  • P2 5a ~35/40m; Climb out the corner and head up the face bridging every now and then, reaching a big ledge with a bolt and piton.
  • P3 5c+/6a ~35/40m; Starting with a tricky chimney then slab up to the crux. The crux involves a twin cracked chimney above a ledge, which can be reasonably protected (it may have lost some good holds which is why the book grades at 5-). Then ramp up to the final problem a corner hand crack with hollow flakes on the left wall. A big thread at the top.

The name story: When the first recorded ascent by Britich/French climbers in 1987 they found slings in place, that's why they called it Runner-up.

FA: Uknown

Trad 110m, 3 Wadi Rum
6a Route 2
Trad Wadi Rum
5c A Pale Moon Rising

Set: Tony Haward

Trad 40m, 2 Wadi Rum
5a mish '5alt
Trad 25m Wadi Rum
5b+ wein elaman
Trad 25m Wadi Rum
5c+ saeba
Trad 25m Wadi Rum
6c+ Ca damne le pion Trad 250m, 6 Wadi Rum
6b Trente Six Soleils
1 5b
2 6a+
3 6a
4 6b
5 6a+/b

Mixed Trad

Refer to:
http://compagniedesguidesdechamonix.over-blog.com/article-trente-six-soleils-95890877.html
Gear:
8 Quickdraws, one set of Cams small and middle sizes, 2x 60m Ropes.
Descend:
3 abseils same route, (5th to 4th) - (4th to 1st) - (1st to the Ground).

Overall: Very nice route, with distant but solid bolts and easy-to-place intermediate protections. The difficult moves are well-protected. The wall is South Face exposed, therefore can be done only in winter times/cold days.

Pitch 1 (5b):
- 3 Bolts - Climb vertical on easy terrain (5b) but distanced bolts to a ledge and then left to the anchor (Bolted with maillon).
Pitch 2 (6a+):
- 5 Bolts - Climb above the anchor on a vertical wall, well-protected, possible to integrate, with one tricky move to stand up on a small ledge (6a+), then a traverse to the right, protected with a bolt but exposed move (6a) to the anchor (Two Bolts).
Pitch 3 (6a):
- 4 Bolts - Go up the corner, 6a, (high bolt, can integrate) then traverse on a slab to the left, 6a (easy to place protections) to a belay station (bolted with chain).
Pitch 4 (6b):
- 3 Bolts - Vertical difficult climb (6b) with a bolt very low placed and slippery feet. Then straight up with no bolts but ok protections until another bolt. Then another physical move out on a slab (6a) to the right (anchor with bolts and maillon).
Pitch 5 (6a+/b):
- 3 Bolts - Exposed traverse right with a bolt in the middle and tiny feed and holds (6a+/b), then easier terrain with a bolt and easy to protect. Reach almost the top of the wall going right. Here you can make an intermediate anchor on huge sandclocks or traverse left onto a ledge (huge rope drag) to the last anchor (one bolt and sandclocks with old ropes connecting).
Abseils
1st abseil 40m to the start of the 4th pitch. 2nd abseil, with a bit of drag to the left, to the end of the 1st pitch. 3rd abseil to the ground

Thanks To for the Details {Emanuele Gallone}

Mixed trad 200m, 5, 18 Wadi Rum
6c Crack
Trad 30m Wadi Rum
5 La Coeur de ma Poulette

FA: A.Cathala & O.Didon, 2003

Trad 100m Wadi Rum
5/5+ Garbure et Cornichons

FA: V.Seger & R.Thivel, 2003

Trad 90m, 3 Wadi Rum
5+ All Quiet on the Western Front
1 5+
2 4+
3 5

No fixed anchors. The climb follows the corner crack all the way, either staying in it or out on the face in places. Risk of loose rock.

Descent: After the final climbing pitch, head right through the narrow passage. After this head right and scramble down the dry gully (there are plants). Follow the cairns along the ridge line and after a short down climb head right then back left down another gully to a 30m repel from 2 threads. (30 - 60 mins)

Alternatively, rappel down the main face along the route "Garbure et Cornichons", on 4 anchors. The top anchor is a thread with slings, that can be reached with a slightly hairy downclimbing move of 3. From there rappel trending left, to find another thread with slings. Rap from this continuing slightly left, to find a bolt and a piton (twin 60s will reach the floor from here). 4th station on top of the block (unverified) Risk of loose rock during rappel.

FA: P.Jammeron & A.Vildard, 2003

Trad 100m, 3 Wadi Rum
6a+ Mas Bread,More Pan

FA: T.Berges/R.Thivel, 2003

Trad 110m Wadi Rum
5 The Little Beauty

Not to be confused with "The Beauty"

Approach: At the west end of Kharazeh canyon. 2 hours from rakabat east, 1.5 if you know where your going. (1 hour from the village?) From the top of Goats gully head north along a plateau. Head up the scree slope. When you reach the bottom of the face you will see an the bolted climb "the glory", scramble/climb up and round left to reach the easy but exposed ramps of the first pitch.

P1: f3, ramps, un-protectable (or pointless to protect). Head up and right to the bottom of P2 and where the climb splits into scarlet o hara.

P2: f5, a tricky move to get over the bulge then a walk to the base of P3

P3: f4, (30-40m) a beautiful sustained low angle corner crack which gets wider at the top. Two #3's can protect the top 1/3 of the crack. Finishing at a large thread.

Descent: Possible to 60m repel to the base of P2. The guide book suggest a 40m repel and walk off to another area (un-checked). Down climb P1.

Trad 100m, 3 Wadi Rum
6a Scarlett O’hara
Trad Wadi Rum
n/a
Trad Wieda Slabs
4b project
Trad Wieda Slabs
4b downclimb1

solo downclimb

FFA: Wolfgang Vogl, 2013

Trad 50m Wieda Slabs
4b - c Yellow submarine

FFA: Tony Howard & D.Taylor, 2008

Trad 50m Wieda Slabs
4c Postman

solo

FFA: Wolfgang Vogl, 2013

Trad 30m Wieda Slabs
4b Downclimb2

solo downclimb

FFA: Wolfgang Vogl, 2013

Trad 30m Wieda Slabs
4 Tamer
1 3
2 2
3 4
4 3

Very easy trad intro in Rum with comfortable places to build stations. Hard to protect 3rd pitch leads to nice 4th pitch crack.

Trad 4 Wadi Rum
TD Alan and his Perverse Frog

face climbing to the left of PPR

Trad Wadi Rum
5b Unknown

Unknown 5b trad single pitch with a fixed anchor. The corner 50m to the right of "Merlins Wand".

Trad Wadi Rum
Unknown 2

Unknown trad single pitch with a fixed anchor. In the semi circle cut out on the right hand side when traveling south from "Merlins Wand". Opposite all the scree.

Trad Wadi Rum
3b The Old Way

only top anchor consisting of 2 bolts with traditional rock stairs

Trad 7m Deadsea Canoyns
6b Rainbow Warrior
1 6a
2 6b
3 5c
4 6a

First 4 pitches of "Aquarius".

FA: 1986

Trad 4 Wadi Rum
5b Rum doodle Trad 250m, 9 Wadi Rum
6b+ Khanzerya tower

beautiful line, mixed between bolts and trad. very solid rock. abseiling notes : from the 4th anchor going down to the 3rd, go to the left not through the over hang its 40 meters long , then 3rd anchor there is only one bolt and two rings to go all the way down at least 50-60 meter long abseil

Mixed trad 200m, 6, 18 Tafilah | shubak
6b+ Black Eagle

Mixed, Trad and Bolted with glue-ins

6a|bb+|6a|6a|6b|6a

Trad 250m, 6 Wadi Rum
5c Walk like an Egyptian
1 5c
2 5b
3 5b
  1. 5c wide crack to your right, and a hidden crack to your left, committing, with a slight overhang move at the end.

  2. Climb straight up left wide crack, a bit hard to protect, chimney on the edges, use left face and body jam finding protection inside, good news ! you reach a station of 4 bolt!!

  3. Same style a bit easier

  4. The crux (Or not !) a traverse left to get to inferno line, that can be easy if you find the right line.

Form here you can try the 6a inferno pitch or just go down on inferno stations

Trad 100m, 4 Wadi Rum
5c Salim
1 3b
2 5c
3 5a
4 5b

The obvious crack in the north face of Abu Maileh Tower. Approach up Wadi S.Bach. A little harder than the guidebook grades.

  1. Scramble up to a ledge with big boulders.

  2. Awkward moves into a cave, pull through overhang with good holds.

  3. Two grovely corners.

  4. Slab then layback on sandy open holds.

Descent: 2 rappels, 50m each, down the right side of the route. 1st from big boulder on the right. 2nd from belay at the top of pitch 2.

Topo: Howard guidebook #28.

FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1986

Trad 100m, 4 Wadi Rum
5+ The Face

Each pitch around 50m, starting left of a tree then trending right to a ledge, then up to the left side of the 'mouth'. Climb up to follow the left side of the 'nose' then right above the right 'eye' and the overhanging 'eyelid' to the summit slabs, left of the gully. Enjoyable and well-protected (bolts, threads and trad pro).

Descent Walk off to the NW, veering left and down a well-cairned fairytale-type rock garden where beautiful mosaic-type rock provides an added bonus to the day. (Would be a very nice scramble in ascent.)

FA: James Garrett & Res von Känel, 2006

Trad 250m, 5 Petra +
5 King Faisal

Location: Sig Bajeah or Baaga or Ba Ja is a dark slot canyon well known to locals in Little Petra. Without assistance, it may be difficult to locate this area. The rock is consistently the best quality I ever experienced in Jordan.

Three pitches. A really enjoyable route on excellent black sandstone which follows hand cracks interspersed with overhanging features sporting huge patina holds providing a fun excursion. Bolt belays. Descent Walk to the W (towards the valley) on a huge ledge then abseil to the ground.

Trad 75m, 3 Petra +
6b C0 Bedouin Life
1 5a
2 6b C0
3 5a
4 5a

A good adventure; a striking N facing blunt arête goes in four 40m pitches with trad pro and on good rock to the summit.

Approach via the little valley where Little Petra is situated, their are Bedouin encampments and sheep herders everywhere and most will know the mountain by its name Jebel Alzrb.

Start a short ways from the stream bed up some easy slabs. The 2nd f6b pitch can be easily aided c0 to make it 5a.

Descent Initially easy to the S, down the far side to rappel anchors.

Trad 160m, 4 Petra +
4+ Barefoot Groove
1 3+
2 4+
3 4+
4 3+
5 3+

5 Pitches of varied climbing, cracks, faces, corners and mushrooms, finishing up the black groove.

  1. 3+: From a small canyon on the east side of the mountain, start up the crack and move left to a 2nd higher crack.

  2. 4+: Gain the ledge, then climb through 2 mushrooms, then walk left to belay from large threads.

  3. 4+: Easy walk left then back up right, climb up the slab.

  4. 3+: Climb up the corner crack in the black groove. (~40m)

  5. 3+: Continue up the corner crack heading right onto the face then left at the end.

Decent: Head north over the back to find your way down. Perhaps a small down climb to reach the ground. (30 mins)

FA: M shaw, Atique Auda, Tony Howard & di taylor

Trad 200m, 5 Wadi Rum
5c The Haj

requires 5mm chord to protect the crux on the upper slab

Trad 280m, 9 Wadi Rum
4 Little Sheep

Not in the guide book. Round the corner from barefoot groove. About UK grade severe.

Trad Wadi Rum
7a+ Queen of the Desert
1 6a 40m
2 6b 40m
3 7a+ 35m
4 7a 25m
5 7a 35m
6 6c 50m
7 6b 40m
8 7a+ 45m
9 6b 45m
10 7a 45m
11 7a+ 30m
12 5c 40m

Probably the best rock on Jebel Rum. Starts some meter left of 'Towering Inferno'

Topo

Phototopo by Tobias Wolf

Gear

  • 2x 60m Rope
  • 14 Quickdraws
  • 3x 1,20m Slings
  • 3x BD Cams 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 or Metolius Mastercams 1, 2, 3

Source Arnaud Petit

FA: Chris Stiller, Jan Stiller & Tobias Wolf, 15 Feb 2020

FFA: Chris Stiller, Jan Stiller & Tobias Wolf, 17 Feb 2020

Mixed trad 470m, 12, 89 Wadi Rum
7a Towering Inferno

#39. Extends Inferno all the way to the summit, finishing up the final huge chimney of 'Inshallah factor'.

FA: Tony Howard & Wilf Colonna, 1986

Trad 300m, 13 Wadi Rum
I.B.M.

#40

Trad Wadi Rum
Revienta o Burila

#38

Trad 300m Wadi Rum
6c The Inshallah Factor

#37

Trad 450m, 15 Wadi Rum
8a Rock Empire

mainly sport but trad finish with raid mit the camel

FA: Ondra Benes, Michal Rosecky & Tomas Sobotka

Mixed trad 15, 10 Wadi Rum
7a Raid Mit The Camel
1 6a+
2 6c
3 7a
4 6c+
5 5+
6 5+
7 5+
8 4
9 6a+
10 6b+
11 6b
12 6a

Bolts in difficult sections, making the first 4 pitches sport climbing-like. Need to protect in others.

FA: Claus Obrist & Hainz Cristoph, 1995

Trad 450m, 12 Wadi Rum
AD Crazy ibex

Connects all the way to Jabal Um ishreen highest peak (1753m only one meter less than Jabal Rum peak, or so says the maps). All beduine style, with one section of 3 pitches described below...

Follow the rocky valley up NNW, till you reach a view toward the rest of the valley seeing the slabs facing W.

You go down the gully, jumping over some beduine steps, then taking the first siq/chemeny left then climb zigzag north again till you reach the ledge, there a short 5m problem to a thread to reach the bottom of the slabs where the 3 climbing pitches are:

  • 3 slab, ~35m to a bolted belay visible from the ledge (could be soloed)
  • 5 slab ~25m (threads and pitons in places) to threads on the top
  • 5 Short traverse ~10m left, a scary exposed one reachy/overhang move (with knifed crimp on the left side), poor protection.

From there you put your rope away and enjoy the route-finding challenge all the way to the peak going SWW, crossing the canyon from the west end where it's not very deep, then going all the way south to a gully taking directly to the peak, Cairns exist here and there.

Descent: Reverse the way, on the 3 pitchs one 60m rap to the middle of the 3-graded slab then carefully slide down, or reverse the 3 pitches down climbing first one from the top is possible. One more possible short rap in small Siq if you go a little deeper inside.

Update July 2020: Islam Maani added a new thread, making the scary exposed traverse way less scary, inspect and replace if needed, might need a 30cm metal wire to be able to rethread.

Trad 700m Wadi Rum
6b Falcon Corner

Scramble up the Siq (canoyn), till you reach the very obvoice open-book-shaped rock formation.

Climb up right the crack in the middle.

Trad 350m, 6 Wadi Rum
5 Purple Haze
1 4
2 2
3 5
4 5
5 3
6 5
7 5
8 4
9 2
10 5

Long, but cool 10 pitches of climbing.

You can reach the summit.

P1 easy p2 traverse p3 5 2 overhang moves (A thread could be good) could be connected with p2 p4 chimney p5 nothing continue up could be connected with p4 p6 Crux move left crack p7 face then a chimney p8 stay to the left to reach 2 pitons shity pro p9 nothing continue right p10 short climb up 3 Parallel cracks

Descent the canyon next to Falcon corner abseils, or Sabbah route scramble.

Trad 300m, 10 Wadi Rum
5b April Fools
1 4
2 5b
3 4
4 4
5 3
6 2

A diagonal corner crack. Protection not very forthcoming or useful, soft rock on the left side. No fixed stations. 60m double ropes useful.

Approach
On the west face of Jebel Annafishiyyah, 100m south of the luxury camp, or 100m north of the inscriptions, the climb starts from behind a generator/mechanics where the red wall meets the white wall.
Time
Guide book states 1.5 hours, it took me 5 to reach the top. Descent 1-2 hours.
  1. f4 Swing out right on to the face to gain the terrace.

  2. f5 Swing out right from the main corner, awkward and bold crux if you can't get the gear in due to your hands being in the way. Slightly harder than the guidebook grade of -5. Back up the main corner, poor options for belay.

  3. f4 Diagonal face climbing with nice exposure.

  4. f4 Face / corner climbing over 50m

  5. f3 Face climbing over 50m

  6. f2 short pitch to reach the end.

Descent
?? Not obvious.
  • Head to the actual summit, from there go north east down a gentle slope on the east face.
  • Awkward down climb to a terrace.
  • Head right 50m past big blocks. Then down to the next terrace.
  • Head left 50m to some biggish blocks. Abseil from here 50m to the main couloir.
  • Then easy walk south out of the couloir.

There is some unusual detritus on the top which suggests there might be an easier way up and down.

FA: Tony Howard, Di Taylor & W Naiz, 1987

Trad 250m, 6 Wadi Rum
5c+ Hole to Hole
1 4+
2 4+
3 4+
4 5c+

An awesome cave!

Approach
Climb starts inside Salman Zwaidh camp, please say hello to Musa who owns the camp before starting, he's a very nice man. The hole (Cave) is pretty obvious its on the north face of Jebel Hassani. Its north facing but got the sun form around 9-12 in the summer.
Gear
You'll need at least 10 quick draws for the last pitch along with normal trad. Double 60m ropes.
Time
8 hours.
  1. f4+: Climb up through the awesome cave and pop out the top. Some in situ slings which you might not require depending on your path. Some hollow sounding threads. Scrambling up the cave entrance is pretty easy.

  2. f4+: Don't head to the left corner. Walk across the plateau and try to eyeball the black streak which goes all the way to the top. This pitch could start anywhere as there are plenty of options.

  3. f4: Climb on up cracks and features to another big ledge to reach the black face of the final pitch.

  4. f5c+ 50m: Sustained undulating face climbing all the way on black rock, has around 10 very spaced out bolts with limited trad options in between. Top out to a bolt and thread.

Descent
The FAs describe a scramble left and a 30m repel, our version is a bit different.
  • Scramble left (East), 40m repel from bolt and piton.
  • Head west then short repel from thread.

From here there are 2 options.

  • snake your way down the way you came on broken ground to a full 60m repel from a big thread (tie knots) to the plateau next to the start hole.

Or easier

  • Head east following cairns to a gully which leads to the Siq um al Tawaqi with another long repel.

FA: James Garrett & Res von Känel, 2007

Mixed trad 200m, 4, 10 Wadi Rum
6a Bedouin Camel Boys
1 6a 45m
2 5b 50m
3 5c 45m
4 5c+ 30m
5 5c 50m

An impressive climb with a big feeling. Trad climb with some bolts.

Approach
On the north east corner of Jebel Al Hasani, east from hole to hole.
  1. 6a, 45m. Sustained. A line of 3 bolts at the base leading to a shallow corner, finger cracks to a good ledge. Bolted anchor with chain.

  2. 5b, 50m. Walk left a few meters to a slab with a bolt. Proceed up broken ledges passing a few more bolts. Ignore giant thread on the right, carry on for another 10m to another tatty thread under big overhang.

  3. 5c, 45m. Pull over the lip onto slab with hollow sounding holds with spaced bolts. Bolted chain anchor on the arete. Note this is the descent anchor that takes you down the main east face.

  4. 5c+, 30m, 7 bolts. Up the arete to bolted anchor.

  5. 5c, 50m, to the right 6 bolts up the crack.

Descent
Rappel back to top of P3 via 2 short repels, then down the main face in 3 longer rappels.

FA: James Garrett & Res von Känel, 2006

Trad 220m, 5 Wadi Rum
5b The Minimalist

Approach from nearby Obeid's Camp, immediately behind and in close proximity to Obeid's Bedouin Camp. 5 minutes to the East walk from the camp.

Trad 100m, 2 Wadi Rum
5c Full Moon Waning

From Obeid's Bedouin Camp and facing the rocks behind his camp, this is located on the "Corner Crag" about a mile to the West (far side to the right of the rocks).

Trad 30m Wadi Rum
4c The Morning After

On the "Corner" Crag next to Full Moon Waning, west from an Al Hasani from Obeid's Camp.

Trad 30m Wadi Rum
6a Ish Hazak

Direct line up the water-polished cracks, begin left of "Vanishing Pillar". Descent with 5 rappels.

FA: Joel Etinger & Gili Tenn

Trad Wadi Rum
6a Silver fox

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

FA: Walter Haupolter & Albert Precht, 2006

Trad 250m Wadi Rum
6a+ Pensioners Tango

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

FA: Walter Haupolter & Albert Precht, 2006

Trad 250m Wadi Rum
6b Jordan Express

finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq

FA: Walter Haupolter & Albert Precht, 2006

Trad 250m Wadi Rum
6b+ Left of Merlins Wand

FA: O. Didou, P. Jammeson & P. Voignier, 2006

Trad Wadi Rum
6c Ehe Auf Zeit

On Jebel Abu Judaidah. Mentioned in this AAC article.

FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006

Trad 16 Wadi Rum
6b Sex (w)as Well

On Abu Judaidah’s North Gendarme. Mentioned in this AAC article.

FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006

Trad 6 Wadi Rum
6b Ritter der Kokosnuss

on Abu Aina Towers finished with lion heart

FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006

Trad 7 Wadi Rum
6b+ A0 Model TV

East face. Nice line on good rock. Mentioned in this AAC article.

FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006

Trad 6 Wadi Rum
VII L’Alba di Fabio

south face of Suweibit Gharbia, left of the classic line of The Haj

FA: Gianluca Beilin & Andrea Cozzini, 2006

Trad 9 Wadi Rum
7a No Teacher, No Gum, No Melihoul
1 5+
2 6a
3 5+
4 5+
5 7a
6 6a
7 5+
8 5
9 4

FA: Arnaud Guillaume & Christian Ravier, 2006

Trad 300m, 9 Wadi Rum
6a+ Southern Star

south face of Jebel Suweibit east of the haj

FA: Hugh Cotton & Robert Durran, 2006

Trad 7 Wadi Rum
7c+ Morning Sun Street
1 6a
2 7a
3 7b+
4 7b+
5 7a
6 7c
7 7c+
8 7b+
9 7c
10 4
11 5
12 6c
13 3

7a+ oblig, mainly bolted. East face of Barrah massif, canyon Rad al Beidah. Czech article first ascent. AAC article. Czech article Emontana.

FA: Christian Fascendini, Matěj Svojtka, Ondřej Beneš & Ondřej Tůma, 14 Jan 2019

Mixed trad 550m, 15, 12 Wadi Rum
7a Sound of Silence

Right of "Merlins Wand". Descent is by rappelling with double ropes. AAC article with topo.

FA: Jens Richter & Steffen Krug, Nov 2014

Trad 7 Wadi Rum

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