Ascents as trad by Brendan Heywood

Not the best line at the cliff but another worthy line in its own right at the grade

Footer blew on scrittle at the start, then got up the flake and traversed to the roof crack and rested. Half did the move through the lip. Pumped silly

The new gear beta is great walking or unclipping behind you, leaving just 2 reds at the first lip and two yellows at the second. Fell at crux again, the jams are fine I just need much more weetbix and more stamina.

The first third is horribly hollow and loose for gear but otherwise climbs well. Topped out on the ledge. Didn’t do the crack which needs a good clean. Not inspired to lead it

Top rope burn, shoulder felt great after I tweaked it a couple weeks ago here. Got to the crux clean feeling fairly solid, had a tussle with the rope stuck in the crack where I needed to be. Worked it all and did get the crux moves, but it feels like the crux isn't actually the crux and it's the thinner hands on the headwall which are doable when fresh but brutally sustained after the lip which is the extended crux. The top boulder problem I got first go last time and made a mess of it this time cause I was super cooked.

This one has been on the list for ages and I should have done it years ago, its one of the best routes in the gorge! It climbs well and it's in a top spot

Two goes on top rope and made a lot of progress. This feels very doable now compared to last time. The first roof is not too bad after all, pinch abd layback instead of jam. Second roof is perfect hands for me, the lip is just a constant grunt fest and is more of a stamina thing than pure technical difficulty. Head wall is just more constant fight and thins out and I think you’d want to just punch through it quickly up to the rest before the third little roof. Final section was surprisingly easy and flows nicely. Strained my shoulder / bicep somewhere on the first go and should have taken it easy and cooked it a bit on the second go

Didn't pull on, just cleaning and belaying. Found a perfect photo ledge level with the main roof with the water fall in the background

Whoa! Epic, daunting, steep, tantalizing, humbling

Lead to first roof and then shut down

Did the traverse fine and then gassed myself on the mantle. Needed to just get much deeper and palm up and fight a bit more. Don't think my commitment level was the same with time limit and heat. I think I was expecting it to feel a lot easier the second time round.

Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.

Good go, got to end of traverse and popped and my shoulder wasn't happy so rested it the rest of the day

Route was naturally a bit dirty again, takes slight bit of shine off. Progress was made. Route is in shade until 10am

Working and aided the moves

The boulder start to this is really cool

I was originally going to do the real easy far right zig zag but got a bit sketched by the levitating arch. It seems solid but I definitely won't be putting gear near it. The move onto the slab is interesting but it's over too quick and the grassy ledge section at the top out is not ideal.

Cruisy and flowly and a delight, just like impunity but more consistent. A #3 works in the first horizontal but a #4 is better

'Attempt' is being polite. I flailed on this hard. I've given Michael so many catches it was overdue I had a play. The first half is nice and easy but not trivial. Maybe grade 18 and I've often wondered about it being a route in its own right as the two sections are so different in style and grade. At the roof the doom music kicks in and its just ... hard. I may have done about 4 actual moves total on the head wall between sags

Fun and flowy, fairly consistent and a great warm up for Innocence in a similar style

So good, a couple spicy moves still but its all there

Really dogged this and had to aid to the last bolt. Surely something has ripped off, the start is great but then getting to the sloper ledge is either a big dyno, or a massive ape span, or off super minging sharp crimps. Second bolt isn't in the best position.

Toyed with a direct start, should scrub up into something

Super fun, stoked to onsight the FA thinking this would be baggy fists but its solid hands almost all the way

Great route with interesting crux, the top section needs more cleaning and wigged me out and I finished up to the right instead

Flowey

Reacquainting with all the beta. Felt nails again pulling on, crimps are sharp and none of the jams are really great. Did more or less most of the moves in three sections: off the ground to thin moves to get into the layerback, trick is to hop and swap feet and then chill out a little. For the bulge the sequence which worked well for me was avoid the Salmon tickle that Ben was doing, right hand on the okish slightly downward jam, then left hand ring finger hook into the little meat grinder and pull right through so right falls into the side pull, then feels pretty good out left to crimp the crystal then, right high step and slap the right hand up a few times and profit. Ended up right my right hand under the top rope anchor for an unfun knuckle grate

Based on the dust and cobwebs this probably doesn't see much traffic but it's pretty neat. If we hadn't left some gear at the bottom we would have been done for the day but it was a really great little one to finish up with. Nice to have some jams for a change and switch up the muscle groups.

Super fun! I think this might be my fav route of the day, the second half of pockety goodness is bouldery and very happy to pick my way through the swiss cheese

Very cruisy fun with a nice finish

Really cool rock features

YUS! 3 goes, first was typical flash pump first route of the day. Second was a pretty close one hang. Three is a charm! It is still winter but the sundeck was cooking

Short and lovely. As we were packing up my new downie blew into the water and Simon was a champ and went for a brisk swim. Walk out was hard, slow, cramped up a lot

Lovely rock, perfect first lead for Simon. If only this went for 5 pitches

First climb again post covid. Felt very drained. Afterwards bashed down the gully to the kitchen through a jungle of thorns and stinging nettles, next time better to walk around the rim and drop in from the west

Rapped into to take some pics and got a nice vid of Michael taking a whipper when a piece popped. Done a lot of jugging today, way more than the I've climbed

Slightly higher high point that last time, much cleaner sequence with less faffing. Sagged at the fist crack. Powered through the rest with a little scream, much easier than trying to be slow and steady. Classic!

Second go did it almost pure layback and much easier. A couple jams at the roof to rest, burned through the second layback section and got a no hands rest in the possum hole. Such a nice route

First go, jammed it all up to the little rooflet which was super pumpy, came down after second rest

Rapped off to film Michael, had to bail before I had a go

A mix of slab and jams from tips to fists, nice finish to glory jug

Real cool little line. Was expecting a fight but flashed it and felt solid all the way

Pretty cruisy, crack is a little gravelly

Got to about 2/3 and pumped out. Finished with 3 hangs. All the moves are there but it is deceptively steep. A truly superb route and its crazy that routes were done either side decades ago and this gem was just left untouched

First time I've been on the 'real' inertia, always been confused by the bolts. This route is quality. Take care to extend gear over the sharper lips to save your rope. Was lightly raining, the cross through move at the lip shut me down and was a bit rushed to spend time working it.