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description

Start down on very small ledge (build a semi hanging belay). Follow easy ramp slightly right to first rooflet. Short boulder through this and up easy slab crack into the big main roof. Bust out this through the lip turn (crux). Continue up pumpy headwall then tackle the final third rooflet boulder problem to topout at DBB.

Original aided at 20 M1 and exited left through vegetated alcove, must do third rooflet for the full tick.

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Route history

Oct 1982First ascent: Paul Bayne & John Lattanzio
26 Apr 2024First free ascent: Michael Moore

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -30.60503, 151.80960

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Grade citation

26 Assigned grade
Michael Moore
20M1 private
24 [23 - 25] -- grAId

ethic

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 88 from 4 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 1
Tick 1
Attempt 10

Comment keywords

hands epic steep lip pinch easy roof technical rest crack layback perfect good great super crux sustained solid hard fall

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Fri 2 Jun
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