A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position.
On the E face of the Bard Buttress there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.
33m (18) Up the crack to the niche past a very old BR, then head up and slightly R from the niche to a good ledge.
32m (17) A tricky steep move gains the long R-facing corner. Near it's top move R then up to the Bard Terrace.
Ann Pauligk's mid 1970s ascent, first go, was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.
18 Jul 1965 | First ascent: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson & Ted Batty |
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1975 | Notable ascent:
Ann Pauligk Ann Pauligk's mid 1970s ascent, first go, was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. |
14 Apr 2022 | Warning Access: Closure |
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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
18,17 | Assigned grade |
18 | ★★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs |
18 | ★★★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite |
18 | ★★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria |
18 [17 - 18] | grAId |
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Overall quality 80 from 286 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
Based on 1 ratings.
Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780987526427
This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.
Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780987087461
444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Warren Price on ★★★ Eurydice 18 - Kate Belaying first pitch.jpg
Geoff Woods on ★★★ Eurydice 18 - Geoof and Lauren soon to be benighted upon Eurydice :)
Paul Badenoch on ★★★ Eurydice 18
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