Castle Crag Mostly Trad climbing 35 routes in cliff

Sensational jug hauling traverse

Start: Start as for 'Trapeze' & 'Swinging'

As for 'Trapeze' until the end of the traverse, then head diagonally up and L to ledge on arete. Keep moving L (above the roof) into Procul.

Latch onto the hanging flake just L of Trapeze's start, then finish up the wall R of 'Trapeze'.

Fun! Climb Swinging to second bolt then step left and follow weakness to top. Good wires protect the crux.

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

Crimp straight up from where Siva Direct spans left. A better finish.

Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start.

The first grade 25 in the country.

As for 'The Butterfly', but continue traversing across 'The Undertaker' and finish up 'Swinging'.

Follow 'Elusive Butterfly' to 2nd piton, then traverse L, almost into 'The Undertaker', then climb up R into groove.

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

Tries to free an ugly bolt ladder, but bails when the going gets too hard.

Up the the seam past a fixed peg.

Start: Below the wall with 'Red Baron' is a tiny seam. If you can't find it you might need a microscope.

Climb the face just R of the arete.

Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge.

Originally freed with the aid of a fixed peg placed on abseil. It's gone now thanks to the Law of Ethical Entropy, but small cams will do fine.

Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).

Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.

Climb the slimey, curving crack, past a few old pitons, to the ledge.

Start: At far L end of lower wall (below 'Iron Cross' and Mickey Finn).

1m left of Dynamic.

Originally done with a fixed wire, this is now a popular top rope problem.

Start: About 10m R of Kor is a thin seam.

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

Climb the wall R of 'Mickey Finn' past the unnerving rattly block.

Up the wall 1m R of SP (contrived at the beginning), until able to move R past tricky moves to jugs.

After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol.

Start: As for 'Warmonger'.

The country's first 26.

Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).