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Sooty Crag

11

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Summary

A lovely remote orange face with a good collection of wall routes. Shade until midday in summer.

Description

This cliff is rarely visited, however the routes climb good rock and cracks that remain in good condition despite its lack of popularity.

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Many of these crags are located on private property - and could be closed at any time. Do not piss off local residents by parking cars at the end of Belgravia St - park back near the train line and walk 100m up the road.

The Belgravia St descent track and Devondale bouldering is located on private property (it is NOT owned by the Hydro Majestic Hotel). This property changed hands in 2018 for a cool $1.9 million, and the new landowners have not expressed concerns about the public on their land - yet. It is very important that this property is treated with utmost respect - and if you are approached by the owners then please be courteous. If they have concerns please get them to contact ACANSW.

Blue Mountains City Council is the land manager for The Block, Katoomba Bros, Sandpit, Valley Farm & Sooty Crag. Access to all these areas is via the private land mentioned above.

The mega lux Hydro Majestic Hotel owns private land that includes the Sunbath Wall, Reservoir Dogs, Sporting Complex, The Underworld & Pole 28. Access to to these private land crags is NOT guaranteed and could be closed at any time.

DJ crag is also located on private property - with the owner apparently living below the cliff itself.

Approach

Note this cliff is located on the lower cliffline. Best access as for Sunbath (it's about a 15 min extra walk in from that crag). Park at Belgravia St, walk to Sunbath. Keep walking downhill past The Block down steps through "tunnel". At the bottom of the steps turn right (facing out) onto Valley Track. Follow this for approx. 200m until a sharp hairpin left. At hairpin continue ahead/rightish. The track is good but then seems to disappear at some ferns. Push ferns aside and keep following track until you cross the creek almost at cliff base. Keep walking 200m to the ringbolted orange wall of Sooty. GPS -33.668228972776085, 150.27503745680545

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

History

History timeline chart

The first routes were established here in the 1980 but never written up. In 2003 the wall was "rediscovered" and some of the original trad routes were retrobolted as sport routes.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Excellent technical slab and vertical wall. Far left bolted route 2m to the left of Abbey Road and finishing at that routes anchors. Climb direct to the anchors via pockets - don't bail right at horizontal break.

FA: S. Bell, 2003

This landmark right facing bolted flake crack is the best warm-up at the crag. Originally climbed on natural gear in 1980 and accidentally retrobolted in 2003 (where is was named Chimera).

FA: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

Ignore first set of anchors and mantle onto ledge. Stem madly up brilliant retrobolted corner crack to loweroffs. This extension was how Rod's original trad 1980s route was done.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

Not the best route here but totally worth a go. Funky start through opening bulge then stop start featured wall above.

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

Spectacular pocketed orange face guarded by a damn hard chimney and bulge down low. Apparently a hold broke off in this lower section in 2017 and it is now quite desperate. Alternatively stem up the nearby tree and step onto the rock.

FA: M. File, 2003

Info unknown. Potentially this is the bolted extension to Wildfire up the arete?

FA: M. File, 2004

Fantastic arete that shares the first two bolts of Wildfire then breaks right. The chimney start is not grade 22 however after a hold broke in 2017. Stem up the tree or batman to first bolt.

FA: S. Bell, 2003

Continue up past the anchors to a short tricky crux.

FA: S. Bell, 2003

FFA: Jason McCarthy, 4 Jul 2021

The left of the two routes on the wall left of Windy Row. Stick-clip bolt out left of Windy Row's corner (or place trad) and layback up crack for a couple of metres to start.

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

The sport route up grey face just left of Windy's corner.

FA: M. Rofe, 2003

1 16 25m
2 15 20m

Mega corner crack that would have to be one of the best 16's in the Blue Mountains. Worth lugging a rack here just for this route. There is a convenient lower-off at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch seems very vegetated and unclimbed.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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