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Discussion: Gym critique

  • Started: about two years ago on Tue 14th Jun 2022

Public discussion This is a public discussion in Gyms forum.

Beakerboy started this discussion about two years ago.

Gym critique

I’ve been climbing for about a year and I was keeping track my ascents in Evernote. After my brother told me about this site, I’ve just finished adding most of the routes at the climbing gym I visit: https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/united-states/kentucky/area/1649747775

I’d love any feedback on what I’ve done wrong or what I should improve. My only question is, should each area inside the gym also be tagged as a gym, or as ‘artificial area’?

replied about two years ago.

Cool, happy to work with you to make this better.

Firstly you can use normal area types below the gym. So setting Gym is required at only one level.

Near the header there is a Display mode which flattens the area and sub areas. I have done this for the boulder section so you can see what it looks like.

Does the gym use grades or just colors? This can be customized.

How do you propose to keep it up to date (ie archiving removed routes and adding new ones). Ideally it would be good to include the gym management so they tell you.

Beakerboy replied about two years ago.

The gym has a couple sheets of laminated paper that describe the color to rating conversion. In the lead area, color and number rating are equivalent. However, 5.11a and 5.11c will both be blue. In the bouldering area, start holds are designated with different colored washers, so the washer color indicates the rating, but the hold colors are just used to distinguish one route from the next.

I was about to test the archiving process since one of the boulder walls was being reset yesterday.

I was just doing this initially for my own record-keeping. I was going to share it with some friends who climb there too to see if they find it useful. Then I was going to mention it to some of the staff that I know.

Beakerboy replied about two years ago.

This gym has both boulder (using the V-scale) and lead routes which use the US climbing scale. The bar-chart at the top of the screen appears to convert all routes to the V-scale and present them together. Is this the desired display? I would think separate charts for each area would be better. I admit that for the purpose of creating a universal climbers rating, there needs to be a way to translate difficulty from one scale to another, but I don’t know how useful that is writhing one specific facility.

Also, when an area is in the Flat display mode, I feel there should be a more intuitive way to select the individual areas. Some of the areas have took maps, and when it’s in Flat mode on mobile, you have to click up to the menu to browse to the sub-areas to see those.

replied about two years ago.

The system can handle grade colors across multiple grades.

We cannot do two different profile charts on one page. Maybe gyms should not have a profile chart.

You can assign hold colors and washer color.

Flat mode means you can tick everything at once on desktop. If it does not help then just go back to normal mode.

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Beakerboy
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Simon Dale
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