Routes as trad in Africa

The route is located between 'George' and 'Headache'. Between these climbs prominent overhangs cross the face about 1/3 to 2/3 way up. The first overhang is passed by climbing the same recess used by the first pitch of 'Headache', but 3m to the right. The route avoids the second overhang by traversing across the undercut face between the overhangs and ascending to a prominent nose.

1. [18] 15m

   Start from same ledge as 'Headache' but 3m to right. Ascend white recessed face, past fixed piton 3m up to a small stance (piton belay).

2. [X15,A1] 12m

   Diagonally right, 9m up. Traverse right around rib into crack. Ascend crack then traverse about 3m across face with 3 pitons (A1). The piton crack used is 1,5m above the undercut bottom edge of the face. Climb diagonally right from the last piton into a shallow recess. Ascend the recess to overhang and then swing out to right onto tip of nose. (Piton belay - this stance is 6m to left of stance at top of pitch 3 of 'George').

3. [10] 15m

   Ascend sloping face to top, finishing with short chimney.

Variations: 2a. 18 Instead of traversing on aid, continue up for 8m, then move right across wall over to the nose. 2b and 3b. 25m 19 Instead of traversing right on Pitch 2, climb directly up the flared crack to the top.

The route starts about 20m downstream of 'George' midway between two large trees, of trunk diameters approx. 3/4 to 1m. Ascend easy rock to a rock ledge about 9m.

1. 18m 11 Follow the line of a very definite corner vertically up from the ledge to a small stance where the corner ends in an overhang.

2. 3m 16 Ascend to a narrow ledge to the left of the overhang at the top of the sloping slab, slightly to left of the start.

3. 12m 8 Traverse 14m left into prominent crack/ 'Easy Option'.

Variations:

3a. 18m 17 For an independent finish traverse left 6m from the stance at top of Pitch 2. Then ascend into a small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out to the right and ascend a steep face (strenuous) to a big ledge where a small block rests. This pitch is midway between pitch 2 above and the crack of 'Easy Option'.

3b. 18m 17 From the top of pitch 2 continue up crack directly above to top. This is a more direct finish than 3a above.

1. 12m 10 Ascend rough rock to top.

Start 5m to the left of the first pitch of 'Headache', where there is a small recess leading up to a smooth face. Ascend easy rock for about 9m to a large ledge below the recess.

1. 30m 17 Gain the recess by a difficult layback move and continue up the face just to the right of the recess for about 5m before traversing back left into it. Climb up for 3m, step out left onto the arete and continue up a further 2m to the slanting overlap at the top of the recess, where a small nut runner can be placed. Move up a few meters and then step out left onto the steep face. Climb up this, diagonally left for the first 5m and then diagonally back right and up to a small stance with thread belay about 5m left of the stance on top of pitch 2 of HEADACHE.

2. 24m 17 (Same as variation for pitch 3 of 'Headache') Ascend diagonally leftward into small alcove, above which is an overhanging V-shaped crack. Traverse out right and ascend steep face and then continue more easily to the top.

15m downstream of 'Swiss Army Knife' is a gully. Walk up gully for 10m to the start of rock proper.

1. 18m 13 Climb the corner formed by a left slanting crack and a face to the left of it for 10m. Exit onto big ledge to the right. Walk along ledge for 8m to a broken corner.

2. 30m 14 Climb broken corner and follow recess above to top. Tree belay.

Note: Surprisingly good climbing on clean rock. 2 very old pitons were found on pitch 2.

Start about 3m to right of 'Easy Way Out'.

1. 22m 11 Ascend face moving left for 2m then straight up for 6m. Climb left into diagonally right sloping corner crack up to corner belay 14m.

2. 20m 9 Proceed directly up easy face. Ascend to top moving slightly left.

The start is from approximately the same position as for 'Easy Option'. Having gained the rocky ledge about 9m above stream bed follow this to its left extremity from where a 3,5m wide slab inclined at an easy angle slopes up almost to the summit. The route lies on this slab all the way to the top.

The climb is situated just below 'Easy Way Out', starting behind prominent pinnacle.

1. [11] 18m

   Start up face. Traverse 3m right into crack. Climb overhang in crack and continue up crack to stance below face.

2. [17] 18m

   The pitch follows a shallow crack, sloping slightly left, with an eye hole at the top which is visible from below. Start pitch by mantelshelf and then move left to crack. Follow the crack to the eye hole which is at an overhang and finish up short face to top. This pitch was opened artificially, but has since been found feasible free.

The climb is situated just below 'Easy Way Out', starting behind prominent pinnacle.

1. [17] 18m

   Climb the steep face immediately behind the pinnacle.

2. [17] 18m

   The pitch follows a shallow crack, sloping slightly left, with an eye hole at the top which is visible from below. Start pitch by mantelshelf and then move left to crack. Follow the crack to the eye hole which is at an overhang and finish up short face to top. This pitch was opened artificially, but has since been found feasible free.

Route takes a column and then a wall to the left of 'Fanlight'.

1. 20m 15 Climb front of column turning the headwall on the left.

2. 10m 17 Step across from summit of the column onto the wall (4m to the left of FANLIGHT). Step diagonally left into shallow recess, then straight up steep wall 5m. Then good holds lead to belay stance.

3. 10m 19 Traverse left on a slab wall to stance directly opposite by using hand rail or by making fine moves slightly higher.

4. 10m 19 Step back right onto wall and climb shallow recess making gymnastic moves near the top to reach small stance under summit overhangs.

5. 15m 17 Traverse right 5m (where a stance can be made if rope drag is anticipated). Step up left onto sloping block and make exposed moves over roof then climb wall to summit.

Note: Owing to zigzag nature of route the pitches have been kept short.

The climb is located about 10m upstream from 'Proboscis' and generally follows the buttress on the right of 'Proboscis'. The crux of the route is a series of small overhangs at the same level as the crux pitch on 'Proboscis'. The route here bears left until a ledge is reached just right of the nose of 'Proboscis', thence up and slightly right (steep) and past a small cabbage tree. A grey face finishes the climb. There are several variations to the lower part of the climb.

The climb starts about 15m upstream from 'Crescendo' opposite a large tree with trunk about 60cm in diameter. There is a small but prominent triangular overhang about 18m up which resembles a nose. The nose points downstream. The route goes to the left of the nose.

1. 15m 7 Start on a staircase which goes up to the left. Then climb diagonally right to a wide ledge. This pitch is on grey rock. The remainder of the climb is on red rock.

2. 8m 12 Start at left hand end of ledge with a pull-up. Continue up to another ledge on which there is a tree over to the right.

3. 14m 17 Start at left hand end of ledge again. The face slopes back initially but is rather devoid of grips. It then steepens but the grips are good. At the top of the steep section which passes to the left of the nose, climb out to the right onto a small ledge. Piton belay.

4. 12m 10 Continue up pleasant clean rock to the top.

The climb starts about 30m upstream from the start of 'Hospital Hill', at a point where a tall tree is growing close to the cliff. Beginning up a small chimney and continues up an attractive open book to a small tree, then traverses left over Lobotomy and back right again to finish straight up above the starting point.

1. 20m 11 Climb up chimney and open book until you reach a small stance with a small tree.

2. 40m 19 From the stance move slightly right and up for 3m to a small rest point on a large sloping ramp. Then traverse left for 7m (strenuous) to a very exposed rest point below a large semi detached flake. Move around the flake on the left and continue rightwards (awkward), then move rightwards (10m) to a small ledge with 2 good pegs in place.

3. 15m 13 Traverse left for 15m and then climb up short steep face above, between 2 large aloes to the top.

Note: A pleasant and exposed route spoilt by poor protection and bad rock.

The route is on a prominent yellow face immediately upstream of a large high "Gothic" cave, the pointed roof of which reaches nearly to the top of the krantz.

1. [11] 15m

   Start on a small grey face in a small corner climbing to a good ledge with two trees.

2. [15] 18m

   Take off from the ledge on the downstream side, climb upwards for 6m, then bear right into a corner. Climb as high as possible in the corner until it is possible to slide one's fingers along a prominent horizontal crack in the nose on the right and taking the weight on the hands swing round the nose. Traverse right 6m to a ledge and tree.

3. [15] 22m

   ('Cat Walk') Ascend the face directly above the stance. To get onto this face, a small overhang must be negotiated followed by a delicate traverse to the right (difficult). Then continue directly upwards on steep rock with good holds to the top. This variation is easier and less strenuous than the original pitch 3.

The route is on a prominent yellow face immediately upstream of a large high "Gothic" cave, the pointed roof of which reaches nearly to the top of the krantz.

1. [11] 15m

   Start on a small grey face in a small corner climbing to a good ledge with two trees.

2. [15] 18m

   Take off from the ledge on the downstream side, climb upwards for 6m, then bear right into a corner. Climb as high as possible in the corner until it is possible to slide one's fingers along a prominent horizontal crack in the nose on the right and taking the weight on the hands swing round the nose. Traverse right 6m to a ledge and tree.

3. [17] 22m

   Traverse left and diagonally upwards for about 6m where a piton can be placed which safeguards both the leader and last man on the previous pitch. Climb up onto a small leaning-out ledge by means of a long arm pull then traverse 12m to the right round a nose and up past a clump of aloes.

Note: Exposed. Strength and balance required.

The route is on a prominent yellow face immediately upstream of a large high "Gothic" cave, the pointed roof of which reaches nearly to the top of the krantz.

1. [11] 15m

   Start on a small grey face in a small corner climbing to a good ledge with two trees.

2. [15] 18m

   Take off from the ledge on the downstream side, climb upwards for 6m, then bear right into a corner. Climb as high as possible in the corner until it is possible to slide one's fingers along a prominent horizontal crack in the nose on the right and taking the weight on the hands swing round the nose. Traverse right 6m to a ledge and tree.

3. [15] 22m

   Ascend the face directly above the stance. To get onto this face, a small overhang must be negotiated followed by a delicate traverse to the right (difficult). Then continue directly upwards on steep rock with good holds to the top. This variation is easier and less strenuous than the original pitch 3.

This climb, which has a common start with 'Crescendo' follows an exposed line to the right of the high cave of 'Hospital Hill'.

1. 15m 13 Climb directly up to a large tree 5m above the ground and then continue diagonally rightwards via a small overhang to a small ledge. Stance is common with 'Crescendo'.

2. 15m 15 Climb the recess above the stance for 5m and then traverse left for 3m along an exposed ledge. A long pull up leads on to another ledge and then continue straight up the exposed face to a very small stance with peg and nut runner belays about 3m below the overhangs and 5m right of the lip of the cave.

3. 22m 20 Step down 1,5m from stance and traverse left for 3m across the face to below a 2m recess capped by an overhang. Climb the recess to the overhang and make an exposed traverse left and then up to surmount the overhang. Continue up steep rock to a small ledge at the base of the recess. Traverse left for 1,5m and then climb the slightly overhanging face, initially on good holds, but getting poorer higher up to an off-balance resting place where a small nut runner can be placed for protection. Traverse left across the exposed face just above the roof of the cave and continue on off-balance traverse to the grey face opposite, where the angle eases. Climb easily to the top.

Start 5m upstream of 'Casualty Ward' i.e. at the upstream entrance to the cave which is several meters above the ground.

1. 25m 17 Climb up to a recess and continue up to a roof 20m up. Traverse right around the arete to gain a ledge just above a small tree on the Apex face.

2. 30m 20 Climb up diagonally right past a large loose block to a ledge then back diagonally left to the top of a block. From there move strenuously up to big jugs and finish diagonally right on smaller holds. Exit just right of aloes.

Note: Steep sustained face climbing mostly on good jugs.

Start as for 'Hospital Hill', i.e. scramble up to the base of the high "Gothic" cave which reaches right to the top of the crag. In the right wall of the cave is an overhanging jam-crack.

1. 25m 21 Climb the jam-crack into a small resting cave. Continue up the steep crack to belay in the deep, sloping cave. (Large nuts useful for runners.)

2. 25m 15 Chimney out spectacularly and horizontally to the lip of the cave and up the slab to the top.

Start a few meters downstream of 'Crescendo' from a cave high up. An intriguing route.

1. 12m 9 Traverse right and ascend 12m into gloomy gully closed in at top. (This is the cave with the pointed roof referred to in description of 'Crescendo').

2. ?m 15,A1 Ascend 5m and then traverse left out of the gully onto steep face. Around the corner is a fixed piton. Abseil 8m from piton and pendulum to ledge 3m to left (piton belay).

3. 17m 17 Ascend 9m then traverse 8m to the left between two overhangs. The overhang above is very large, the one below smaller and ripple-marked. (The first 1,5m of the traverse is the crux.) Piton belay at end of traverse.

4. 18m 15 Up and slightly right on steep rock with fair grips.

Variations:

2 and 3. 20 Avoid abseil by dropping down onto rail. Rail left strenuously.

3 and 4. 20 From crux move slightly left, then up overhanging recess strenuously to top. (Oct 1979 D. Cheesmond, B. Gross and C. Lomax)

The climb is located between 'Eve's Pleasure' and 'Hospital Hill'. Start at cave.

1. 22m 15 Climb obvious crack just left of cave, continue easily to a little cavern on right. Belay.

2. 25m 17 From right hand side of cavern climb diagonally right past fixed piton and up a further 2,5m. Traverse 1,5m right to below little overhang. This is just left of third stance of 'Hospital Hill'. Ascend overhang strenuously to welcome resting place. Continue straight up to fixed piton driven in deeply. At this point the face is overhanging. Swing out right, onto little nose, ascend diagonally right to top.

Note: Protection is good but scarce.

The climb starts 2m to the left of the "obvious crack" in 'Deception' first pitch, crosses the line of 'Hospital Hill' and finishes up the steep face to the right of 'Hospital Hill' top grade 20 pitch.

1. 25m 15 Climb to top of open book. Move right and step onto the face on the right. Move around the corner and climb diagonally right for 6m to stance at a peg 2m below the steep recess of 'Hospital Hill' top 20 pitch.

2. 25m 20 Traverse 2m right to beneath a short open book capped by an overhang. On the undercut right hand wall of this open book is an obvious horizontal crack. Reach up to the rail and climb up and to the right until you can stand out on the tip of the nose formed by the right wall of the open book (crux). Climb diagonally left for 2m then continue up steep face to the top bearing slightly right (sustained).

1. as per 'Bliksem'

2. as per 'Bliksem'

3. 20m 15,A1 A bold lasso on the third pitch avoids the use of excessive aid. From the top of the second pitch, step across the open groove and gain a steep recess by an awkward move. (Peg in place.) Climb the recess moving right at the top to a fixed piton under an overhang. At this point, the original route traversed left. Lasso a spike above the overhang and, using a sling for aid, climb the overhang direct. After moving up for a few meters, traverse right around a nose and then climb to a good stance and belay.

Begin just right of the cave above the scree slope.

1. 9m 7 Climb as for 'Eve's Pleasure', then traverse out to the right and up until past the tree in the open book on the left.

2. 5m 13 Straight up in the open book. (Variation: Traverse out right at the first opportunity.)

3. 22m 13 Climb over the crack on an overhanging slab and traverse right and then up to a fixed piton, then left and up to a block from where the overhang can be overcome. Again right and up until past the last overhang. Scramble 3m to belay.

Start 20m upstream from 'Skeleton' cave and scramble up 10m to large cave. Walk left and upwards to tree belay.

1. 40m 10 From tree traverse left (very exposed) to overlook 'Skeleton' cave, then ascend steeply, exiting to the right just past a tree. Continue easily to the top.

The route starts immediately to the left of a cavern situated above a prominent scree slope.

1. 18m 15 The first pitch starts on a ledge on top of sloping rock. Above this stance the rock wall forms an obtuse vertical angle. The first pitch goes up the easier inclined face to the right of the angle to a small platform.

2. 22m 13 Up the angle for about 2,5m then a traverse of about 4m left, thence diagonally up towards the right to a shallow recess which starts at an overhang. There is a small tree in this recess. Pass the tree and continue up the recess to the summit.

Note: There is some loose rock on the second pitch, which can, however, be avoided with care.

The climb ascends the steep red wall immediately left of 'Skeleton' and follows the arete to the top. Ascend the slab to the left of 'Skeleton' cave and chockstone belay, below the corner.

1. 18m 18 A meter-and-a-half left of the corner taken by 'Skeleton' is a shallow groove running up the red wall. Ascend this (18) for 6m, then follow good incut holds up leftwards to the arete. Continue up the arete to a ledge and peg belay.

2. 12m 13 Continue up the arete to the top.

This climb is on the buttress about 15m downstream from 'Skeleton', starting to the right of a very large block at the foot of the face.

1. 8m 15 Ascend a steepish face, with sloping grips, to a platform with a small tree. This pitch can be obviated by scrambling up easy rock around to the right.

2. 22m 15 Ascend loose-looking but easy rock for 5m (fixed piton), traverse left under a small overhang and then ascend 5m to a larger overhang (eye running belay point). From here traverse left and ascend easier rock for 12m to a small stance (fixed piton).

3. 12m 11 Ascend then traverse right and ascend to a cubby hole in which there is a stamvrug tree.

4. 22m 10 Ascend the face to the left of the recess above the cubby hole. About 12m up, the climb proper ends at a wide terrace, but one can continue up the face for another 9m on steep rock.

Variations: a. 13 At the level of the terrace on pitch 4, traverse left under some creepers and ascend the face about 9m downstream of pitch 4. b. 17 From top of pitch 2 ascend straight up i.e. avoiding the traverse right to the stamvrug tree. One can then end up on the normal pitch 4 or continue up and out left with variation (a).

Scramble up to a recessed crack in a steep face midway between 'Pinnacle Route' and 'Pink Corner'.

1. 15m 17,A2 Climb the steep recess 4m to a peg. Aid up (5 points) moving left at the top. Pull up and climb into a niche. A more comfortable stance can be made 3m to the right.

2. 10m 15 Traverse to the right, crossing the Pink Corner route, until beneath a tree. Climb up to the tree. Stance common with 'Pink Corner'.

3. 30m 9 Traverse right 2m, then straight up just to the left of a ridge. Continue to the top.

The route starts between 'Pinnacle Route' and 'Pink Corner' and goes up the right hand side of the prominent red wall between the two routes.

1. 12m 5 Scramble up the obvious recess to a broad ledge below the red wall.

2. 18m 19 Climb the vague break directly above the recess of the first pitch, bearing left just above a bolt (found in place by the opening party). Belay on a small stance on the right, close to the belay on 'Pink Corner'.

3. 24m 19 From the top of the last pitch, climb up for about 1,5m before moving right, then up a further 1,5m until it is possible to move left into a corner. Climb the corner to the top.

Start just downstream of 'Pink Corner' at easy grey slab with corner on right. Scramble up slab (5) to ledge and continue leftwards past trees to base of pinnacle (upstream side).

1. 25m 10 Ascend corner between pinnacle and main cliff and walk through behind pinnacle to far side (possible stance behind pinnacle). Step down slightly on downstream side of pinnacle and then traverse (crux) to tree (slight ascent) and on to large ledge (slight descent) and good stance.

2. 30m 11 Climb easily up leftwards to top of large block (15m). Step off block to left and ascend steeply to top.

Variations possible on front of pinnacle (10), and to the left of the block on pitch 2, (5) or right (13)

The route takes the arete on the prominent pinnacle to the right of 'Illegitimate'. The start is directly below the arete and just to the left of a set of overhangs at ground level.

1. 34m 11 Climb straight up the grey face to the arete of the pinnacle. Use layback flake on the arete to gain the overhangs. Move onto the right hand face to avoid these and once above them swing back onto the arete. Continue up the arete for 5m to a ledge.

2. 20m 19 Continue to the top of the pinnacle. Step onto and ascend the smooth face above using a peg for aid to gain a ledge. Move left off the ledge and continue to the top.

Notes: 2 pegs on the route suggest that part of and perhaps the whole route has been climbed previously. It is unknown who made the first free ascent.

Downstream from 'Pink Corner', on the same side of the kloof is a small pinnacle, the top of which is lower than the top of the kloof wall. On the left of the pinnacle is a crack which runs the whole way up the krantz, ending in a spectacular open book.

1. 18m 16 Ascend short wall to the left of the crack climbing right in a series of short steps to foot of crack. Ascend the off-width crack to the first reasonable ledge where there is a tree belay. (The face to the left is easier.)

2. 12m 10 Continue up the crack to just below the open book. There is a good chockstone.

3. 15m 18 Climb the open book (chockstone half way up).

The start is 5m downstream from the start of 'Illegitimate' and is marked by a prominent pinnacle, whose top is a little lower than the top of the face. The first pitch takes the recess.

1. 25m 11 Climb the shallow recess and then diagonally leftwards across the grey slab to the tree.

2. 34m 13 Climb up the grey slab to just right of the white bulge at the foot of the steepest part of the red face. Ascend the face on good grips to a little ledge level with the pinnacle on the right. Climb diagonally left up to the top of the face.

Starts 7m right of a corner crack which provides an easy ascent to the right hand end of 'Retribution' ledge.

1. 25m 15 Start on a grey wall. Move up and left for 3m on an ascending traverse to a ledge. Move slightly right. Follow an obvious shallow depression up to a large ledge.

2. 25m 13 Climb the yellow wall with a bulge in the middle behind the stance. Keep right of an obvious easy crack to the left which joins Retribution top pitch. Climb the left side of the bulge following a definite crack. Finish up easy rock.

Immediately downstream of an easy grade 7 crack formerly incorrectly known as SOLO is a root covered cave. Start 4-5m upstream of cave.

1. 16m 11 Ascend the wall to a ledge and nut belay (or tree belay on right).

2. 12m 13 Continue directly up the wall above the first pitch to a small overhang. Either move left under it or move left above it to gain a large ledge and block belay.

3. 18m 17 Ascend the chimney or rib on its left which leads to the left hand side of the "ogive" (arched overhang). Traverse right under the overhang, step down and make an awkward move right to gain the front face of a detached pillar. Move up right to a chockstone belay in the chimney.

4. 12m 7 Continue up the chimney to the top.

Notes: The top pitch runs very close to 'Retribution', keeping parallel with it and joins the same crack system to the top. A direct finish at grade 19 has been added by T. White and S. Morkel.

Start 5m left of cave with hanging roots upstream from the start of 'Retribution'.

1. [14] 15m

   Climb a narrow crack.

2. 20m 13 Climb narrow slanting crack from a ledge about 4m right from top of first pitch. From top of crack bear right up face. Exit from the top of the crack with blocks on other side to a large ledge.

3. 40m 17 Climb the crack with a tree and roots in it on the corner of a buttress. Step right, around onto the face, climb up to overhangs, traverse right (small tree) and hand-traverse on a good ledge to a small platform (strenuous). From there climb to top.

For a direct start, start 1m right of the tree at the base of easy grade 7 crack (formerly known as 'Solo').

1. [17] 25m Climb up into a small recess with a little overhang. Move left and up a crack to a tree. Continue above the tree to a short wall, move slightly right and up to a ledge. Move diagonally left onto a steep wall on good holds (small blocks which appear to be loose are in fact sound). Continue up to an undercut block. Traverse slightly left to a good ledge. Move up and over right to a large ledge with tree. Continue above the tree laying away on a slanting crack to the top of pitch 3 above using the same belay stance (chockstone in a slit).

The climb starts about 20m upstream from 'Onderstebo', 2m left of a slender tree.

1. [11] 12m

   Ascend a crack to a wide ledge screened by trees.

2. 12m 15 Up approximately the centre of the grey slab above ledge. At about halfway up a short traverse of about two steps to the right thence straight up to a wide platform.

3. 12m 11 Starting at the extreme right hand side of the platform climb up in corner of red rock to a point immediately underneath the very large overhang. Traverse right about 6m to a stance adjacent to a slit through which daylight is seen. A chockstone in this slit can be used as a belay.

4. 20m 14 Traverse right round the nose and up to other side of slit where chockstone can again be used as belay. Then straight up to summit.

Start 2m downstream from the small tree at the start of 'Retribution'.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb a few meters of the start of 'Retribution'. Move awkwardly left into the corner, then continue up until level with the large ledge on the right. Traverse onto the ledge. (Same ledge as found at top of first pitch of 'Retribution').

2. 18m 16 From the left side of the ledge, climb diagonally up left to the overhangs 8m away, via a delicate step up at 4m. Traverse boldly left on good grips for 5m before moving up. Ascend 6m to a large ledge on the right.

3. 34m 10 Climb the face above trending leftwards to the recess which is followed to the top.

1. 25m 17 as per Trivia

2. 30m 15 Above the first stance there are two breaks leading to the face between 'Trivia' and 'Onderstebo'. Take the left break leading onto the face. Climb up the middle of the face to the top.

Start about halfway between 'Onderstebo' and 'Retribution', just left of the roots coming down from the face and below a shallow cave 4m up.

1. 25m 17 Scramble up to the foot of a short, steep face, just right of the cave and just left of the roots. Delicate climbing diagonally up left leads to an easier angled ramp above the cave which is followed to a stance on a ledge.

2. 15m 19 Climb straight up for 4m and then move diagonally up right to the base of a shallow open book. Climb this to a small overhang and then step very delicately right onto a ledge and stance in the recess, about 3m below a large overhang.

3. 25m 17 Climb up to the overhang and then make an awkward, strenuous move out left onto a small sloping ledge. Continue diagonally left to the base of a shallow recess above the overhang which is climbed to the top.

Start on the left hand side of a recess 3m right of 'Onderstebo'.

1. 25m 15 Climb a groove on the left hand side of the recess until it is possible to move right under the overhang and across a short wall. Follow the groove above to a stance and tree belay.

2. 28m 13 Move diagonally right over easy rock to the foot of a steep red wall. Ascend a corner on the left until it is possible to step onto the wall. Either climb straight up the centre of the wall or move across to a rib on the right hand side and climb that.

The climb starts immediately below a small cave at a point where many prominent thick roots descend over the rock face from a tree growing out of the rocks.

1. 22m 7 Vertically up an obvious easy rock face to a large tree.

2. 9m 11 Up from the tree for about 3m and then diagonally right to a ledge. Scramble 12m to right into a corner (tree belay).

3. 10m 13 Straight up the corner in the rock wall to a small overhang. Move right (strenuous 'Onderstebo' move). Continue to climb the recess to top.

Using the first grade 7 pitch of 'Onderstebo', gain the large tree. Step right onto blocks.

1. 20m 13 or 17 Climb a V-shaped recess capped by a roof until under the roof (4m). Break out right (13) or break straight through (17). Continue up a clean recess/ crack slightly to the left to the top.

To the right of 'Midnight Crawl' there is a cave at ground level, and right of this an obvious overhanging crack line.

1. ?m 23 Start up the hanging tree roots for 6m to join the crack. Follow this through a roof. It is possible to step left above the roof onto a block (which forms the roof of the cave). Continue up the very overhanging crack to the ledge.

Start in large cave bounded on the left by a smooth red face and on the right by an overhanging wall. There are some blocks trapped in the "roof". Ascend the upstream facing left hand retaining wall of the cave.

1. 15m 15 Climb the slab, initially up a faint crack in its middle and finally in the corner on the right, the crux being the rounding of the final overhang to gain a belay ledge.

2. 15m 11 After a delicate step over to the right, traverse 3m to the right to a big ledge. Scramble 12m up easy rock to tree belay.

3. 28m 15 Climb up in corner until forced out right by overhang. Diagonally right to a block jutting out from face 40cm, where a piton safeguards the move onto the ledge (the last 5m to the block are strenuous). Easier climbing on face to top.

Variations:

3a. 28m 11 Step down and traverse right for 8m into corner, from where it is possible to climb up to the block mentioned above from the right (easier) and to top.

3b. 28m 16 Continue up crack through overhang to top.

This climb starts left of 'Midnight Crawl'.

1. 20m 14 Climb the short face, pull through an overhang and continue up to a good ledge.

2. 20m 13 Climb the break above to the top of the crag.

Start as for 'Solo' in a crack to the left of an upstream facing slab.

1. 15m 9 Climb up and left over dark coloured bulging rock, then up to tree.

2. 20m 9 Move right into corner then do a step over onto the front of the prominent arete.

3. 20m 9 Climb steep face moving left past tree to top, or go directly up corner (10).

The climb starts in the middle of a small face set at right-angles to the main kloof, immediately after the first narrow part of the kloof, after the junction with the side kloof on the true left side.

1. [7] 16m

   Climb a crack about 0,5m wide, in which is a large root. The first 6m is grade 7, after which the crack eases off and the next 10m is 5/6 which leads onto a sloping grassy ledge with a big tree.

2. 17m 7 Continue the same line, behind the tree and into the recess; at the second tree, more pleasant moves are made by climbing the face on the left of the recess, although the recess may also be climbed. 17m of grade 7 rock and scrambling to top.

To the left of the polished slab of the first pitch of 'Midnight Crawl' one finds 'Relapse'. The route commences about 3m to the left of 'Relapse' on the corner of the block proceeding up a shallow undercut recess.

1. [17] 12m From where the earth bank falls away to the left around the corner, traverse left to under the base of the recess. Using a small foothold stand up and pull into recess taking care not to dislodge a very loose block on the left page. A piton affords some protection from this point. Proceed easily up recess to large ledge. From here various easy routes lead to the top.

Note: There is no protection for the cruxes.

The climb starts on the right hand (i.e. upstream) side of the dark face just downstream of the polished slabs ascended by 'Solo' and 'Relapse'. The start is 5m to the left of an overhang 6m up the dark face and 8m downstream of the polished slab.

1. [13] 25m

   Climb the face using a vague recess until it peters out on narrow ledge going up to the right. Gain ledge, move left and continue directly up to the large ledge. There are two large trees at the back of the ledge from where the shattered chimney/corner used by SOLO begins.

2. 30m 11 Start 5m to the left of the chimney/recess used by 'Solo' at a short crack. Climb up trending slightly right for 5m on steep rock with good grips. Move left and then up to gain a short corner and continue directly up to the top.

The climb starts in well defined small corner about 20m below 'Solo' and either a grade 7 or 8 start may be made.

1. [9] 17m

   Climb a shallow recess with a narrow opening at the top. 7m of grade 8 onto a square ledge. Or alternatively, climb easy rock about 5m to the left of this, moving up and to the right to reach the same square ledge (7). Climb straight up following the crack for 10m to tree stance.

2. 11m 7 Move to the right onto big block of rock and around the corner 3m and climb in recess to reach sloping grassy ledge 3m. Walk 5m to big tree for belay.

3. 17m 8 Climb the main face behind big tree (at this point climb crosses 'Solo'). Belay at ledge with tree growing out horizontally.

4. 12m 7 Climb up and to the right to final V-shaped recess at top.

Variation: 2a. 10m 10 Climb the steep crack directly above the tree on good grips. Continue straight up to the large ledge. (M. Arsenjevic and D. Peters)

The climb starts in well defined small corner about 20m below 'Solo' and either a grade 7 or 8 start may be made.

1. [9] 17m

   Climb a shallow recess with a narrow opening at the top. 7m of grade 8 onto a square ledge. Or alternatively, climb easy rock about 5m to the left of this, moving up and to the right to reach the same square ledge (7). Climb straight up following the crack for 10m to tree stance.

2. 10m 10 Climb the steep crack directly above the tree on good grips. Continue straight up to the large ledge.

3. 17m 8 Climb the main face behind big tree (at this point climb crosses 'Solo'). Belay at ledge with tree growing out horizontally.

4. 12m 7 Climb up and to the right to final V-shaped recess at top.

A few meters upstream from 'Bite' is an obvious steep slab bordered on the right hand side by a steep wall.

1. [13] 30m Ascend the slab, easily on the left hand side or with more difficulty on the right, to gain a small ledge below an undercut shallow open book. Climb open book to top.

This route ascends the obvious overhang a few meters to the right of 'Berg Adder', immediately before 'Grass'.

1. [15] 30m Ascend open book to gain the base of the overhang. Traverse out right to gain a small ledge. Finish as for 'Grass'.

On the left hand side of the kloof approximately 200m upstream from 'Double Vision' is an obvious short buttress/ pinnacle. The climb takes the obvious line through the large flakes above. Cairn.

1. [17] 30m Ascend gully on upstream side of pinnacle to gain the start of the flake. Ascend flake to top.

On scrambling down the gully just downstream of the 'Midnight Crawl' buttress one comes across a groove system at the downstream extremity of the buttress. A salient feature of the route is a small rock pinnacle just underneath a horizontal dinner plate protrusion. The route starts on top of a large block just up from the start of the crack-cairn on the top of the block.

1. [15] 30m Climb the crack just below the erectile projectile. Move cautiously up, pass the little pinnacle, and climb the faint open book above to reach the top of the gendarme. Move across the little gully and climb the rough wall behind to reach the comfortable belay stance on the top.

Notes: The holds slope in such a way that it feels as if the route is trying to spit you out. An excellent route on rock which is not as easy as it first appears.

Just downstream of the 'Midnight Crawl' buttress is a scramble gully. A long sloping ledge starts just upstream of the base of this gully. Start at the upstream extremity of the sloping ledge below the crack system on the left hand side of a gendarme.

1. [16] 25m Climb the steep crack making for the short curved crack high up out on the arete. Ascend this and then climb up the blocky arete to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.

Notes: The holds slope in such a way that it feels as if the route is trying to spit you out. Descend by moving slightly upstream and then scrambling down the gully.

The route climbs the pronounced chimney some 5m downstream of 'Low Earth Orbit'. Start from the same long sloping ledge marking the start of 'Low Earth Orbit'.

1. [14] 25m Climb the chimney, delicately at first, to reach the tree above. Regain the chimney, with difficulty, and continue to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.

Notes: Protection is adequate though hard to find. When the tree disappears one suspects that the grade is going to jump a tad. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

The route takes the vertical crack up the downstream retaining wall of the descent gully downstream of the 'Midnight Sprawl' buttress. Start just up from the start of the descent gully at the start of the crack - cairn.

1. [8] 35m Climb the crack breaking through the roof above and take a stance on the comfortable ledge on top. Be careful on pulling the jug at the outer extremity of the roof as its integrity may be suspect.

Notes: Protection is excellent and the route is easier than it looks. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

On reaching the bottom of the scramble gully downstream of the 'Midnight Crawl' buttress, one finds a slab reminiscent of that climb on the downstream side of the gully. The route ascends the crack on the right boundary of the slab - cairn.

1. [8] 40m Climb the slab using the crack on the right for protection. Exit at the top of the slab and move slightly right up the groove to take a comfortable stance next to the tree at the top.

Notes: A good route for its grade. Descend by moving slightly upstream and scrambling down the gully by zigzagging upstream and zagging downstream. At the downstream extremity of each zigzag down climb the groove until the scree slope is reached.

Takes the crack up the centre of the 'Midnight Sprawl' slab - cairn.

1. [8] 40m Climb the centre of the slab using the crack for protection. Climb straight up to take a comfortable stance on top.

Notes: A good route for its grade. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'

The route takes the bottomless laid back open book(s) immediately downstream of the 'Midnight Sprawl' buttress - cairn.

1. [14] 40m Climb up the base of the first open book (approximately 4m up). Gain this with some trepidation (crux). Climb up the laid back open book above to reach the bulge at the top. Move through the bulge on left to gain the second open book above. Climb this. Careful of the loose block above the tree. Move left and climb the clean crisp rock above until forced to exit left. Climb up to the comfortable stance on top via the short wall. Careful of another possibly loose block on top of the wall.

Notes: Easier than it looks. The holds are all there. Superlative clean climbing. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

About halfway between 'Dancing on the Ceiling' and 'Library Freak' is a pronounced roof and curving crack above a smooth slab. The route takes a line up the centre of the clean buttress just downstream of this roof/slab combination ( cairn ).

1. [10] 30m Take an arbitrary line up to the top. Probably the most interesting part is pulling through on huge jugs to exit before taking a stance.

Note: Despite the easy grade a worthwhile pleasant clean climb for a beginner. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

The route takes the clean crisp deep open book capped by a roof approximately 3m up. The line is the first salient feature when moving upstream from the route 'Bridge Over Troubled Waters' (approx. 20m). At the right extremity is a left leaning, tree root choked slab which moves up leftwards to meet the line, next to the roof (cairn).

1. [16] 28m Move up the open book to just under the roof. Move rightwards, doing a foot swap in mid stride and lay back up to reach the base of the clean open book above. Climb the open book dodging to the right at the top to clear a clot of vegetation. Ascend an arbitrary line to the top. Take a comfortable stance.

Notes: Protection is good at the crux. A worthwhile, technically pleasing, mid range route.

Approximately 5m upstream of the Beetle bonnet duet is a grotty looking broken groove. The route follows this until it becomes very steep, traverses right and then moves up a small broken corner to reach the top - cairn.

1. [17] 30m Climb the groove to reach a small ledge above which the groove becomes very steep. Move up for about 2m and then traverse delicately right (crux) across the steep wall to reach the small broken open book. Climb this and tend diagonally leftwards to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.

Just upstream of the low buttress sticking out into the kloof (see 'Under Pressure') is a Volkswagen Beetle Bonnet shaped feature. The route takes the right hand crack line of the Y - cairn.

1. [13] 25m Move up to the base of the crack. Climb this, fighting through the tree close to the start of the crack. Climb up steepening rock to exit right. Fight through some hanging creeper and then take a line straight up to a comfortable stance on top.

The route takes the left crack line of the Y-shaped Volkswagen Beetle Bonnet feature mentioned in 'Right Beetle Bonnet'. Start at the same point as this route - cairn.

1. [13] 25m Move up to the base of the left leaning crack. Climb up to the large left leaning detached block. Climb up behind this to reach the left leaning open book above. Move up to exit left. Climb up to the comfortable belay stance on top.

Approximately 40m upstream of 'Double Vision' is a low (more or less two body lengths) buttress sticking out into the kloof. The route takes the broken looking faint open book just downstream of this buttress. The route makes for the white alcove (capped by a roof) high up and breaks right to clear.

1. [17] 32m Start up the faint open book (cairn). After a few meters move slightly left and pull up by means of a long reach. Climb up to the white alcove beneath the roof (by moving slightly right). Step down to the right and gain the upstream open book awkwardly. Pull up to easier ground and climb the crack (clearing the ledge on the left) and steep wall above to clear the small roof. Take a stance on the top of the prominent gendarme.

About 5m downstream of 'Under Pressure' is a left slanting rock. The route takes this crack - cairn.

1. [13] 26m Climb up to the clearly defined left slanting crack. Move up the face to the left of the crack, at times awkwardly, until able to clear on the left. Climb up the broken rock to reach a comfortable belay stance above.

The route is about 80m upstream of 'Double Vision'. A steep (slightly overhanging) face is partially obscured by a large and prominent stamvrug (forked near the base), which also marks the start of the climb.

1. [17] 20m Climb the well defined recess behind the tree, following its natural curve. Break through the recess in the overhang to belay at a stamvrug bush.

This is a steep short crack about 50m upstream of 'Lifebuoy' but on the opposite side of the kloof. It is about 20m upstream from 'Double Vision' and just before a very large tree.

1. [20] 15m Climb the crack in the red rock breaking out right at the top to a tree belay. Scramble off on right.

The climb starts about 3m downstream from 'Before Breakfast' following a crack just right of the roots.

1. [19] 17m Climb the crack to a platform on the left. Step right and up onto bulge gaining a handrail on the headwall (piton). Rail right awkwardly and then up to stance.

Note: The piton was found in place.

Ascends the obvious couloir capped by a large overhang, on the left hand side of the kloof, directly opposite the First Aid dump.

1. [18] 38m Climb right hand side of couloir on good but extremely polished holds. Move into the back of the couloir and ascend to below the overhang immediately right of slab. Move up and left across slab to gain easier ground. Finish up easier rock above.

When descending from the lower crags on the right hand side of the kloof, a steep slab on the left hand side is encountered.

1. [13] 10m Climb up the middle of the slab.

The route is situated on the overhanging face immediately right of the lower swimming pool above the last waterfall. i.e. about 10m upstream of 'Castle Gorge Corner' and starts at a recess with a small tree growing in it about 15m up. It follows a line through the two lower overhangs to the top. The route was pre-practiced on top rope.

1. 40m 23 Start at the base of the recess and climb up to the tree and then diagonally left to the roof (last resting place). Climb through the roof using the flake immediately above, and move immediately right to a mantelshelf move (crux). Climb up to the roof above and through on thin holds. Climb up to the final roof and traverse left to easier rock directly below the roof.

Note: The crux move can be protected by a Hex no 11 about a meter below the bottom roof in the recess and a Hex no 6 directly under the roof at the resting point mentioned. These protections are both bomb-proof and protect the leader from cratering from the crux. A friend no 2.5 can also be placed above the roof immediately below the crux (with difficulty). No runner should be placed behind the flake, as this would not reduce the fall factor markedly, and break the flake. The rest of the route can be protected easily.

This route shares the start of 'The Joy' but takes a vertical line above the flake.

1. 35m 23 Take off as for 'The Joy', continue straight up left of the lichen and top out through the roof.

Notes:

1. Don't place any protection behind the flake or sling it, as it won't take a lead fall.

2. The pitch was done once on top rope before being led.

The climb lies up the corner on the right overlooking the deep lunch pool, opposite 'Pool Ascent'.

1. 12m 7 Climb the small gully just downstream of the corner to a large earth ledge and tree halfway up the corner.

2. 11m 11 From the tree climb up a small crack for 3m then traverse right around a nose In an exposed position to a ledge overlooking the pool.

3. 15m 6 Climb the easy face to the top of the kloof.

The climb starts at the base of the first pitch of 'Talmud', on the tree roots described in that route. Instead of climbing 'Talmud' to the left, take the obvious line up and to the right up the sloping ramp to at pinnacle at about 15m. From the pinnacle the climb follows a line up t the left of the prominent overhang in the headwall.

1. 18m 17 Climb ramp for 8m, moving right where angle steepens. Climb up red rock to pinnacle on good lay-away holds. Belay on small ledge to right of the 1.5m high pinnacle.

2. 12m 19 Start from top of pinnacle. Move left and up to small ledge. Move up and left using good undercut and incut holds. Climb up and left on good but small holds to left of overhang. Ascend on easy rock to top. Being off-balance, there is no good resting spot on this pitch.

Note: A sustained and clean route. Protection on the whole climb is good. Spectator value is good. Wear clean underpants.

The climb is situated about 30m downstream of the last waterfall and 'Castle Gorge Corner'. It finishes up a prominent open book which is more closed than open - hence the climb's name. Clamber up to a tree (with many exposed roots) about 6m to the right of a point beneath the right-hand containing wall of the open book.

1. 12m 15 Traverse left for gm over a delicate slab. A tree growing at the base of the slab can be reached from this slab and used as a sling placement. At the end of the slab ascend steep rock with good holds to a narrow ledge where a small bush serves as a belay point.

2. 12m 10 Traverse about 2.5m left and then ascend a steep face until a small overhang is reached. Traverse right under this overhang and then ascend to a large ledge which is below the open book.

3. 18m 11 Ascend the open book and climb out to the right at the top (or to the left which is more difficult) .

On the left of the open book of 'Talmud' is a prominent vertical ridge which starts about 30m above the bed of the stream.

1. 12m 15 As for first pitch of 'Talmud'.

2. 12m 10 Start as for second pitch of 'Talmud' and before reaching the small overhang. Climb out left onto a small stance on the ridge 6m above the start of the ridge.

3. 11m 19 Ascend the ridge by means of a slightly overhanging slit, into which one cannot get one's whole body. A small platform is reached a few meters above the slit.

4. 11m 15 Continue directly upwards through a cleft on the ridge (strenuous) and then ascend easy rock to the top. The cleft can be avoided by climbing the greenish face to the right (easier).

The route takes a near vertical line midway between the crack of 'Pidgeon Hole' and the ridge of 'Talmud-Direct'. The start is below a pronounced overhanging recess which appears at first glance to offer little chance of a route. A crack runs up this recess. 1. 6m 15,A1 Take off from a shoulder. Then by of means of one piton and an etrier ascend within reach of the hand grips. Strenuously pull-up into a small recess at the bottom of the overhanging crack. Piton belay.

1. 12m 13,A2 Traverse right and ascend 2.5m up a narrow chimney closed at the top. By means of a sling in the roof, lean out and climb past the overhang, then diagonally left of an eye hole sling point in the crack which runs up from the previous stance (approximately four pitons). Free climb from this point to a small stance with a piton belay below the overhangs.

2. 30m 17 Ascend the cracked recess until forced left by the closure of the crack. The short traverse left is followed by a quick move up onto a sloping ledge (crux). Continue up to beneath a small square-cut overhang. Turn this to the left and continue more easily to the top.

Note: Strenuous climbing and small stances.

The climb is situated 20m downstream of 'Talmud'. It starts in a crack/chimney in which are some chockstones.

1. 12m 8 Ascend the crack behind the chockstones to the roof of a large overhang. Eye belay.

2. 8m 19 Traverse left onto the face by means of a stirrup placed on a fixed piton about 1 m away from the stance and at the same level and ascend using the stirrup, or climb up strenuously without the aid of the sling. Climb a few meters of steep rock to a good stance at the base of the chimney.

3. 12m 11 Climb the chimney until the chockstones at the roof are reached.

4. 9m 16 Continue to the top of the chimney and step right onto the ledge. The chimney actually becomes a shallow recess about 5m up and this is strenuous and exposed.

Situated 5m downstream of 'Pidgeon Hole'.

1. 30m 13 Start in the recess. Climb 15m on a slightly overhanging section with the help of the roots. Then continue up the recess. finally moving right and up to a large sloping ledge.

2. 5m 11 Squeeze through an impossible looking opening between two chockstones in the cave-like recess above and at the right hand end of the sloping ledge. Belay from immediately above to prevent the rope snagging.

3. 30m 8 Proceed upwards and then out right and up to the top.

Variation:

2 ?m 15 Ascend the face on the right and traverse left into the recess above the chockstone move.

Situated 5m downstream of 'Pidgeon Hole'.

1. [13] 30m

   Start in the recess. Climb 15m on a slightly overhanging section with the help of the roots. Then continue up the recess. finally moving right and up to a large sloping ledge.

2. [15] ??m

   Ascend the face on the right and traverse left into the recess above the chockstone move.

3. [8] 30m

   Proceed upwards and then out right and up to the top.

Starts just to the left of the very steep recess with roots coming down it, to the left of 'Pidgeon Hole' recess. There is some thick tree cover around the start.

1. [20] 25m

   Climb a small steep recess for 5m to a rusty fixed piton. Traverse left for 1.5m and then diagonally up steep rock for 5m to a small block above which there is another fixed piton. Move up the steep shallow recess above for 1,5m and then move strenuously up right onto some blocks. Step back left into the shallow recess and move up to 1,5m below an aloe where there is a fixed piton. Traverse right for 1,5m and then climb steep rock to where the angle eases. Then diagonally right to a stance in the main recess.

2. [13] 21m

   Climb the recess for 9m and then traverse left onto a large ledge. Move up from the left hand side of the ledge onto an open face and the up easier rock to a large ledge with a tree belay.

3. [6] 18m

   Continue to top.

Starts just to the left of the very steep recess with roots coming down it, to the left of 'Pidgeon Hole' recess. There is some thick tree cover around the start.

1. [20] 25m

   Climb a small steep recess for 5m to a rusty fixed piton. Traverse left for 1.5m and then diagonally up steep rock for 5m to a small block above which there is another fixed piton. Move up the steep shallow recess above for 1,5m and then move strenuously up right onto some blocks. Step back left into the shallow recess and move up to 1,5m below an aloe where there is a fixed piton. Traverse right for 1,5m and then climb steep rock to where the angle eases. Then diagonally right to a stance in the main recess.

2. [19] 25m

   Step back down left from the stance and traverse delicately left into the corner. Move up strenuously on good holds and continue up the steep corner to the large ledge. Climb the crack above for 3m and then step left on to the easier angled face which is climbed to the large ledge and tree belay.

3. [6] 18m

   Continue to top.

Start 6m to the left of the pink-white face, right of 'Caterpillar'.

1. 12m 15 Up the crack using the roots then up the tree trunk to a ledge. Belay on the same tree.

2. 9m 19 Traverse right 3m around a corner to the bottom of a narrow chimney and ascend the chimney. The crux is at the start. The difficulty is due to the narrowness of the chimney at the bottom and the paucity of grips. The pitch ends at a narrow ledge just past a large overhang on the right. Piton belay.

3. 8m 19 Up the right-angled corner. At the overhang, move left by a layback move to a good ledge.

4. 8m 17 Up the recess through the final overhang.

The climb is on the face immediately upstream of Castle Gully. It starts about 15m upstream of Castle Gully and about 10m left of a prominent white-pink patch at the base of the krantz.

1. [8] 3m

   Climb up the little buttress to a ledge with a block belay. Scramble to the left for 8m.

2. 15m 7 Climb (straddle) the recess and ascend easier rock to a ledge with a tree belay.

3. 12m 10 Up a 3m thin crack, then over easy rock to a large ledge below an overhang. Belay on a tree.

4. 20m 11 Up into obvious chimney through the overhang and out to the right when upward progress is blocked by a tree growing in the face. Up to a second overhang and then right across a thin face to a ledge, then up a thin slab to the top.

Variations:

1. [17] XXm

   Instead of first pitch as described, ascend the diverging overhanging recess 5m to the left.

2. 15 From the block at the top of pitch 1, go up an angled overhanging recess (difficult) 3m high to a small cubby hole in the left hand wall of the recess. Then move diagonally on easier rock to join pitch 3 at the bottom of the 3m crack.

3. Original

4. 19 (Direct finish). On reaching the second overhang in pitch 4, climb directly through the overhang and on to the summit (15m).

Three-quarters of the way up Castle Gully there is a prominent buttress, which in fact separates Castle Gully from Rock Gully. On the buttress, on the Castle Gully side, there is a prominent wedge-shaped ridge on top of which there is a small pinnacle. The climb is situated on the downstream face of this ridge.

1. [17] 18m

   Climb the face, starting near the outer edge, for about 5m on small flat holds. Then move diagonally left into the recess at the junction of the ridge with the buttress. Ascend the recess to a tree belay.

2. 15m 18 Traverse right across the face on small grips to a narrow crack near the right hand edge. Ascend the crack, (mainly on arms) as far as the base of the pinnacle. Thence traverse to the right and up the back of the pinnacle to the top.

This climb is situated on the buttress referred to under 'Theme and Variations'. It starts about 12m down and to the left of 'Theme and Variations' and follows a ridge on the buttress.

1. 18m 11 Commence on the steep face to the left of the ridge, and work upwards and to the right, reaching the crest of the ridge at a tree.

2. 18m 8 From the tree ascend the ridge immediately above (steep but with good holds) and work out on to an easy face on the right.

Start in the same gully as 'Diverimento', directly above a steep rock incline. To the left of 'Diverimento' is a sub-gully and the climb starts on the buttress to the left of this.

1. 21m 7 Take off and pull up to a ledge at 3m. Traverse left for 10m and then up 8m to a ledge below a smooth face.

2. 15m 8 Traverse left to a grass ledge.

3. 10m 8 Follow an open book keeping to the left of a pinnacle.

Note: Appropriate for a large party of beginners.

Start on the upstream side of a 10m buttress on the true right hand side of the gorge, about 30m downstream from Rock and Castle gullies. This point approximately at the point where the stream makes a sharp turn to the left.

1. [15] 8m

   Starting just to the right of the buttress climb up and the traverse left with difficulty to a stance on top of the buttress.

2. 25m 17,A1 From the left hand end of the stance climb up into the steep recess above, using one point of aid to get started. Climb up steeply to the tree, where the angle eases. Continue up to a stance on the large ledge.

3. 20m 15 Traverse right and climb the shallow recess to the top.

Note: Originally, the route was climbed by H. Vogl and party by using the tree.

From the point at which Rock and Castle gullies join. traverse left(downstream) on to main kloof face. After traversing 45m, ascend 45m to top by any of several possibilities up a recess.

Starts to the left of 'Beginners' Traverse'.

1. [7] 10m

   After a tricky take-off, ascend an easy face for 6m bearing slightly left. Traverse 3m left and then up 1,5m to a ledge. Tree belay.

2. 9m 10 Ascend the steep face for about 2m, move around the corner and diagonally left up a sloping face into a crack. Tree belay.

3. 9m 8 Ascend the crack for 5m and continue up an easy face to the top .

Starts at the shallow pool directly below the highest part of the face. Actual start is at a large boulder.

1. [13] 25m

   An awkward take-off with two mantelshelf moves on to 1m wide ledge which slopes up to the right. Walk right for 11m and take a direct line to a wide ledge 15m higher.

2. 30m 17 Start at a stout tree. Up a shallow ill-defined crack bearing left past a small tree and up diagonally right to a narrow ledge resting place. Continue up the steep section on small grips to a large ledge. The final 5m red face completes the climb.

In the main kloof downstream of Knight Gully a long pool extends the whole width of the kloof, so that it is necessary to wade to cross it. This section of the kloof can be negotiated in either direction, and wading avoided, by ascending the right hand wall of the kloof to a ledge about 12m above the pool. Ascend to the ledge at the downstream end is assisted by "monkey ropes" hanging to a rock step at bed level. A traverse along this ledge for the whole length of the pool is possible.

This is a 15m high pinnacle on the right hand side, reached by following the stream past Castle and Knight gullies and wading through pools for about 100m. The pinnacle may be climbed by a difficult route on the stream side (15) or by a route (10) on the upstream side starting where the pinnacle joins the wall on the kloof.

Start in front of the big rectangular the ledge 12m upstream from the ascent to the swimming pool on the true left-hand side of the stream. (Opposite the start of 'Castle Gorge Corner')'

1. 20m 17 Ascend the front of the block or scramble onto it from the left. Step over the gap onto the face which is marked by vertical white streaks. Continue up bearing very slightly to the left. Surmount the slightly overhanging bulge (crux) at about 17m then climb straight up past a piton to a good ledge and belay.

2. 15m 10 Climb the recess to the top.