Start to the right of a 3m high block in an nice dihedral, Traverse right onto a ledge avoid nettles, some scary moves up a sloping dihedral to a small ledge, move left and up passing a small tree on the right.
21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.
From the start of Naked Orange, walk along the rock face to the right until a ledge is reached. Continue along the ledge (about 150m) to a 4m open book with a beacon at the start. This is about 50m to the left of C cad.
25m (F1) Climb the open book, traverse 2m to the right and continue up a crack and a face to a ledge capped by overhangs.
10m (F2) Climb the recess, traverse delicately 2m to the lef, then climb a smooth bulging face to a stance with a wedge belay.
25m (F2) Move up to just below an overhang, make a tricky move to the left and continue traversing 13m on the same level to a stance in a recess.
45m (E3) Climb out diagonally to the left to a little tree to the left of a steep face, then move to the right and up a recess to a big tree.
30m (F1) Continue up to the left at first, then diagonally to the right onto a smooth ledge. Move to the right into a corner, do a delicate pull-up mantleshelf out to the right and move up to big ledge.
45m (E3) Scramble diagonally to the left at first, to an obvious crack in a little buttress. The route here crosses Cycad. Climb up to a stance 5m below a tree.
45m (E2) Climb past the tree and continue up just to the left of a cycad to a comfortable ledge with two trees. This stance is shared with Cycad.
45m (E1) Continue up the face.
Further scrambling leads to the top.
Start in a chimney abut 10m to the right of Vegetarian. This is 15m to the right of a very prominent chimney.
40m (F1) Climb the chimney past a little tree to a little ledge. Continue up just right of the edge of some long slabs to a big block.
20m (F2) Move to the left and climb up just left of the slabs to below a little overhang. Climb awkwardly up right onto a ledge. Step slightly left then with the aid of underhand grips and a layback gain a ledge up to the left. Move onto a big boulder then diagonally right to a tree on the face.
40m (F1) Continue diagonally up right to a slight overhang and traverse right up to atree.
45m (D) Traverse 45m to the right to a slight recess. This is about 5m to the right of a big tree.
38m (F2) Climb the slight recess to a small overhang. Move up to the left then up a few meters until one can step to the right. Make a tricky move left then up 4m to a stance.
45m (F2) Climb up 1m the traverse delicately left into a corner. Move delicately left to reach a thin vertical crack 3m. Ascend the crack (strenuous). Continue to top.
Approximately 200m to the right of the fence is a big brown patch of rock 40m up. The right-hand side of this has a big overhang and the left a recessed crack, with a tree about 8m up.
30m (F1+) Start at lower rockband, below recess line. Climb short open book, moving out left and up to grassy face. scramble to foot of main rockband.
15m (F1) Climb the crack up to a tree, then traverse to the left over a big block to a good tree belay and stance.
40m (F1) Continue up to the left over blocks to a little overhang. Traverse 2m to the left, then climb a grassy face to a good ledge with a tree belay and stance.
40m (F2) Move a bit to the left and climb up to a tree directly above the belay ledge. Traverse to the right, step down and across the main crack. Continue up to the right onto a block, then climb a weathered face above a little overhang. Surmount this and continue for 6m to stance above.
43m (F1) Traverse 8m to the right to a smooth open book. Straddle and pull-up to the right. Continue diagonally up to the right to a good stance.
30m (E2) Move up 3m then diagonally to the left to the top.
Note: This route partly resembles a climb called Spinnekop opneed in April 1950 by D R Bell and B I Harris. The first pitch starts 50m t ot the left of Carnivorous. The second antd third pitches are synonomous. Unfortunately it was not possible to trace the original route rom pitch four onwards.
25m (F2) Start in centre of face. Ascend face to join diagonal recess running from right to left. Follow recess to big ledge.
25m (F1) Climb left hand chimney system to narrow ledge below first bulge.
15m (F2) Follow crack system. Surmount three successive bulges to grass ledge above. Traverse left around pinnacle and scramble up to ledge with blocks.
20m (F1) Ascend left hand side of pinnacle to top.
The climb follows a line up the centre of a buttress to the left of a large
grass ramp, which ends at the neck between the main krantz and the free-standing
upper section of the buttress. Scramble up to grass ledge below buttress. Take
the second crack from the right, which has a tree growing out of its lower
section.
40m (F2+) Climb crack for 30m and step left onto ledge below crack in open
book.
28m (F2) Climb crack for 20m to platform. Step down left 3m onto face.
Tension traverse left fro 3m (peg in place) to stane around corner.
15m (F2 A1) Climb bulging crack above (A1 - 2 moves) and tontinue to ledge.
25m (F2+ A1) Climb crack to tree (2m above large ledge). Traverse 10m right
into recess (topped by large overhang).
15m (F2 A1) Climb recess to small stance and chock belay.
20m (F2 A2) Climb via bulging face (A1) to below overhang. Traverse left and
surmount overhang (A2) to ledge. Scramble right and up to top.
The climb is situated on the left side of Amphibian Tower.
25m (F2) Climb crack system directly to the left of the Tower to large
cubbyhole.
25m (F2) Climb out left of cubbyhole and continue straight up to ledge.
Traverse 2m right to bottom of crack and climb same to ledge and large block.
20m (F1) Walk into corner and straddle up open book to ledge and then
diagonally up left around Tower. Ascend a shallow corner to gain the main
recess.
25m (F2) Move up to neck. Start on the left corner of the final tower,
traverse back right and climb corner and up right to a small awkward ledge from
where it is possible to traverse right to virtually the front of the tower, then
ascend to the top.
Start 20m left of an obvious chimney with round overhangs.
35m (F2) Climb the corner of a crack for 15m then move diagonally right to a
recess. Climb straight up the recess to easy ground. Tree belay.
40m (E3) Climb straight up keeping left out of gully in easy rock.
40m (E2) Continue up to a short chimney. Block belay at top.
30m (F1) Traverse right to a small recess (2m high). Climb straight up for 5m
then traverse right into a chimney stradling up into the back of the chimney.
Belay (poor).
20m (F1) Bridge and straddle up and out of the chimney and to a ledge.
35m (F1) Traverse left over a fault to a wall and climb to a ledge. Traverse
right along edge to a wall on the right side of the fault. Climb up to a
platform and tree belay.
20m (F1) Scramble into the back of a chimney and up through a hole to a
ledge. Tree belay.
The line goes up a big open book about 100m to the left of the right-hand gully.
It starts to the left of some impressive overhangs capping a huge sheer face.
The climb commences up the very next open book to the right of a prominent rock
buttress seen on the lower section of the climb.
15m (F2) Climb open book to ledge and tree belay.
20m (F1) Climb fault on the left up into chimney and chock belay.
25m (E2) Climb deep left-hand chimney and traverse out right to ledge.
40m (E1) Ascend recess to ledge and then walk diagonally right to face and
climb same; walk right around corner to below huge open book.
25m (F1) Straddle and surmount chockstone and then walk into back of recess
and chimney up and out of recess via big leaning flake. To avoid overhanging
recess with bush at its top, traverse out right and climb up to next ledge.
Traverse back into crack and chockstone belay.
25m (F2) Follow fault to large ledge below open book.
20m (F2) Climb open book with some strenuous moves and mantleshelf awkwardly to ledge and stance.
20m (F2) Continue up open book. Stance below final roof on ledge.
Walk along ledge to first corner and scramble to top.
The climb spirals up and around the buttress and starts 100m up the kloof.
20m (D) Up broken grey face to ledge, slightly right of obvious open-book recess in the face above this ledge.
30m (E2) Traverse right (out of kloof) along ledge.
20m (E2) Continue traverse to bushed section of ledge.
30m (F2) Scramble unroped about 30m along the bushed section of ledge onto the corner. Belay at this point. Climb up 6m immediately above the highest point of the ledge, traverse 18m right, then 6m up open book (using left hand side) to ledge and piton belay.
33m (F2) 5m up open book immediately above belay point. Traverse right 23m. Towards end of traverse two steps each of 3m are made. (First 5m is F2, rest is D-E)
18m (F2) Continue traverse over delicate section and make exposed "swing up" move to piton belay on ledge.
12m (F2) Move down 3m into cubby-hole at foot of vertical crack which is then climbed for 9m to ledge at foot of the second section of the crack.
18m (F2) 6m up crack into chimney of easier standard which is climbed for 12m to ledge.
33m (D) Traverse 15m into corner of relatively large recess, the left hand
side of which is climbed for 18m to belay point on ledge.
30m (E2) Diagonally up out of the main recess onto large platform on left
hand wall of recess.
30m (C) Traverse right 18m, diagonally up to left 12m, 30m scramble then leads to a nek overlooking the kloof and almost immediately above the start of the climb.
15m (E2) After walking 30m along grass ledge from the nex, traverse 3m round corner into grassy open book which is climbed to ledge at foot of vertical
section.
33m (F2) 6m up right-angled corner, traverse right 9m and then up 3m over
grass. Traverse right 9m and up 6m also over grass.
30m (E2) 5m up open book. Easy traverse right 25m to corner and tree belay (first on climb).
30m (E1) Up broken ridge to small beacon. Unroped scrambling along the ridge for about 115m then leads to the summit beacon.
3m right of the grey slab of 'One-eyed Jack' is a buttress.
35m 13 Climb up a break 2m left of the edge of the buttress (at approximately 8m is the crux.) Straddle up and move diagonally right crossing a shallow recess. Continue across sloping rock. Move up and left around a corner to a recess then up easy ground to top.
Starts about 9m to left of 'Cave Crag' and just on right of a small ridge below slightly overhanging rocks.
34m 13 Move 5m up on very firm, smooth rock to a slight overhang. Traverse a short but difficult section 2 ½ m to the right to avoid the overhang then up 2m. Traverse to the left to a point immediately above the start of the climb then straight up for about 15m to an impassable zone of smooth rock. At this point traverse right for 5m to a clearly visible stance made by a boulder (slightly loose) sticking out of the main body of the krantz. A better and wider stance is found 3m further up.
30m 9 From upper stance traverse a few meters left to a rock ridge which is followed to summit.
Starts in bush-covered scree opposite a 'Cabbage Tree' on the slope and about 20m to 30m to left of 'Carmen Crag'. Start at a flake of rock below a sloping face to left of a crack.
22m 9 Move up 6m on left of crack, traverse right over top of crack to point above aloe. Traverse further right (4 – 6m) round a corner and up a few meters to a stance on a ledge which can hold four people.
15m 11 Straight up recess to a large grassy ledge. Immediately above this ledge on right is a sheer smooth face.
22m 13 Straight up to left of smooth face to a point below an overhanging block. Traverse right below the overhang then step down and across to right in a delicate movement leading to easier rock, round the overhang and back to left to stance above overhang.
22m 7 Straight up to summit ridge.
Variation:
3 22m 8 Step down from grass ledge and traverse to right to edge of smooth face then up on right of smooth face to easier rock joining up with first route to right of overhang.
Commences some 5m left of the start of 'Hammer Route' at base of sloping slabs.
20m 13 Climb easily up slabs to corner crack where wall steepens. Semi-layback up crack past aloe to belay on large dirty ledge.
25m 13 Climb up in corner to overhang, then diagonally right following overhang. Traverse right 3m then up steep wall to small ledge. Cross aloes on right and climb easily to ledge. Chock belay low in horizontal crack.
35m 9 Ascend easily up small arete then more easily still to top of krantz.
Start on the rib 2m left of the start of 'Rack Route', 4m to right of a prominent right-angled corner.
15m 9 Climb the rib to a projecting narrow block to the right of the rib.
15m 13 Climb above the block for 2m then move back onto the rib. Continue up on sparse small holds (crux) for 10m, until the angle eases on passing a group of aloes. Belay at a small tree 5m below a split overhang with a light brown stripe on its underside.
30m 8 Climb the gully to the left of the overhang and on up grassy rock to the top.
At the top of the face is a large overhang with a white patch on the lip. On the left edge of the face below this overhang is a shallow recess or corner. This is the start of 'Rack Route'. 5m left is a grassy gully, sloping up left and ending 10m up at the base of an obtuse-angled corner. There is a sloping smooth slab on the right.
15m 11 Traverse left 3m onto the slab which is stepped out on the left. Ascend a steep lichen covered recess for 15m to a stance on a small platform.
15m 13 Diagonally right and up about 10m to grassy area. The crux is the first 5m. The stance is on a big ledge.
15m 8 Up crack or gully above and slightly to the left.
The route starts to the right of 'Tweedledum' in a prominent but shallow cleft about 3m wide in the rock distinguished by a black streak running up its inside.
12m 13 Vertically up the cleft below a slight overhang then at 4m up traverse left 3m. Work straight up the ridge for a further 5m to a ledge 60cm wide. Traverse right 5m to ledge. (This ledge is 6m to the right of the start of the climb.)
9m 10 Straight up, to the left of a clump of aloes vertically above and to the right of a larger clump of aloes (5m x 2m). About 8m up is a small sloping ledge just above the larger clump of aloes, and 1 ½ m further up to the right is a flat-topped projecting rock providing the second stance.
12m 8 Traverse right beneath an overhanging rock, then proceed up a ridge slightly inclined to the right and facing the ridge immediately above the overhang. The next belay position is on a sloping ledge immediately below a jagged series of overhangs interspersed with aloes.
30m 8 Scramble through grass-tufted ledges.
FA:M. Burton, G. Strachan, Miss M. Lear & B. Harris, 1939
20m 10 Climb up the easy rock spur until able to traverse right across a wall and up to first tree on a ledge.
20m 13 (At this point it is easy to traverse right to the top of the first pitch of 'Roman Candle') Continue above the tree belay stance onto left wall of a small recess. Move up and left, out, the recess onto a wall. Climb up to a small cubby hole, and a tree.
20m 11 Continue up obvious breaks in the rock to top.
Start on a buttress about 150m to the right of the left-hand descent gully. Just to the right of this buttress are two bushes about 3m apart. About 5m up is a crack in a corner.
33m 13 Scramble about 5m to base of crack and climb crack to grassy platform. Above the platform is another crack in a V-shaped groove. Climb this for about 5m to a tree belay.
25m 11 Climb the chimney above, exit left at the top, then move back right and up arete to the top.
Just to the east of the western descent gully is a compact grey face, split at half height by a ledge. The route goes up the center of the wall and then moves to the left edge to avoid the line of overhangs stretching across the face. Start at the left side of a small pillar approximately in the center of the face. Cairn.
35m 13 Climb up on small holds for 3m until a series of layback holds enables a tree to be reached. Continue up 10m to the obvious tree on the ledge at half-height. Climb the wall behind the tree for about 4m until it is possible to traverse to another tree on the left edge (4m) overlooking the descent gully. Belay at the foot of a steep holdless groove.
15m 10 Traverse below the holdless groove to a second groove, which is followed to the top.
Starts 5 to 10m to right of 'Rheebok Crag' but crosses latter on grass ledge and finishes to left thereof.
The climb follows the line of a crack or recess which is the most important feature to left of 'Rheebok Crag'. The route adheres to this feature in an almost direct line.
From the main descent gully at Eureka, traverse right along the faces (i.e. towards Hartebeestpoort). After 300m one crosses a fence and at the same time the cliff has changed from short greyish faces to long black ones topped by overhangs in most places. The fence is level with the end of these faces. The cliff now becomes more vegetated and has a few long cracks cleaving it height. As one continues the cliff loses height and its base becomes more broken. The climb starts at the base of the first large break in the face. About one third of the way up can be seen a deep open book recess leading to the top. On the right of the recess there is a long thin tower of rock terminating in a 6m face at the top. Scramble 15m (B - C) diagonally left to the base of a reddish open book which lies on the left of the large recess.
34m 13 Ascend the rock at the open book for 9m and traverse diagonally right onto a licheny ramp and up. At the top of the ramp is an open book. Ascend this to a broad ledge, which is the start of the 'chimney/open book'.
15m 10 Traverse right to the pinnacle of rock leaning against the face. Ascend this to its top. Caution should be exercised as the rock is not too firm.
9m 13 Take off directly above the pinnacle onto the steep face. Move left to a crack and ascend it for 3m (6m 13). Continue easily to the top. Rock is poor on this pitch and should be tested.
Note:
The first pitch is very pleasant, but the following pitches are somewhat less satisfactory, owing to the quality of the rock. Protection is poor on the first pitch.
The climb lies between 'Black Man's Burden' and 'Agony View' .
35m 13 Climb nose of small grey face and proceed up to small open book. Step up into crack and then out to left at once on thin footholds. Belay above.
35m 13 Continue over mixed grass and rock to large ledge with much evidence of vulture occupation.
35m 3 Walk left along ledge to small beacon.
30m 13 Climb up 6m, traverse left 4m and then up on good holds to ledge. Up left of gully - mantle shelf. Continue to top.
Notes:
Geological beacon No.2 at top of climb.
Rock generally clean and steep with good holds.
FA:A. Suessegger, V. di Lisa, R. Jaroslynski, J. Brittain & Merv Prior, 1978
Start 30m left of the descent gully west of 'Eureka Dome' closely follow the rock edge on leaving the descent gully to reach a small buttress with a wide diagonal crack on its right surmounted by a large tree.
30m 13 Climb 4m on grey rock to a pile of loose blocks at the base of a 12m layback type crack slanting 20o right in brown rock. Climb the crack (crux) and scramble up scruffy grade 8 rock to a face capped by brown overhangs.
12m 10 Move up 3m and traverse right 9m to easy rock. Walk off into gully.
Note:
A short exercise close to the meet point. Two persons can complete the round trip in less than one hour.
The route takes the obvious chimney that runs the full height of the krantz and lies 50m downstream of RHEBOK GULLY.
23m 13 Climb the chimney and continue up the face to the left of the recess. Move to the face on the right side of the recess and climb it until level with the overhang blocking the chimney above. Traverse left to the overhang and pull through to gain a good stance.
Start where the perennial spring gushes out of the rock on the true right-hand side of the kloof.
20m 11 Climb diagonally left up an obvious crack / fault, and finally straddle through a small overhang to gain a ledge.
20m 10 Climb 5m up to a corner just right of the prominent rib 15m up. From the corner traverse left round the prominent rib to a ledge with a large tree.
20m 13 Climb the face at the back of the ledge to the top, by keeping to the corner.
The climb takes the steep gully mentioned in the description of the location of 'Golden Goose' (i.e. immediately underneath the second pitch of that route). A large tree marks the start of the route.
[13] 45m
Climb the gully/chimney direct to the large triangular overhang at the top of the crag, passing several large chock stones at 35m.
[13] 10m
From the belay, traverse off right, under the roof, using a large ledge, passing a small tree at the exit.
Just below the arete described in 'Golden Goose' there is a short gully. Two crack lines go up the face on the downstream side of the gully. This route generally follows the left-hand crack line.
25m 13 Climb the centre of the rib just to the left of the left crack until level with a tree on the face on the left. Move right to the crack and follow this to the top. Very good climbing.
Start about 20m downstream of the 'Fee', 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum' buttress in an open book recess with a large tree nearby.
20m 13 Climb up the open book to a ledge with a tree on it. Continue climbing up the corner on the left of the ledge to a wide crack. Follow the crack up to the top of a small pillar. Move right using a mantelshelf move to the ledge.
20m 13 Move up the crack system behind the ledge to a tree. Climb the face behind the tree, then continue up easier ground to a broad ledge. Scramble to the top.
Starts to the right of 'Icepig' i.e. at the base of the ramp with the large overhang.
10m 13 Traverse right from the ramp to a good ledge. Climb the corner with the crack on the left side of the ledge to a broad ledge. (Alternatively - climb the easier crack/chimney around the corner to the right, however, it is loose.)
20m 12 Move along the ledge to the base of the chimney. Climb the face and chimney to the top of the crag.
Note:
Good climb for beginners.
FA:D. Margetts, Martin Seegers, Tanja Truter, A. Mercer & E. Boyes, 1988
Start 10m upstream from 'Mark The Ripples' where there is a small recess and crack running up to some overhangs.
35m 13 Climb the crack to a slab and move left to a flake leaning against the face. Climb this and step around right below a large overhang and move up slightly and traverse diagonally up right under the overhang (tree growing from crack). Turn the overhang at the extreme right-hand end. Continue up the crack and climb the fault line to the top.
This climb ascends the face and corner on the gully leading up to the climb 'One For The Pot'. It is just upstream of 'Softy'.
30m 13 Start on the right hand side of the slab. Move onto slab and across it to the upstream facing corner. Ascend corner to a point where one can climb a short recess on the left hand wall. Climb recess to ledge. Continue moving left and up to top of crag.
The climb starts 30m upstream of the minor gully between 'The Swarm' and 'Stoep Polish'. The first pitch goes up the obvious 10m high crack in the corner with a flake on the top of it. The left side of the corner is formed by a smooth shiny white face which faces downstream.
10m 10 Climb the crack in the corner and move left to a very large ledge beneath a large overhang (it is possible to scramble onto this ledge from the upstream side).
20m 6 15m to the left there is a broken corner. Climb this for 15m and move onto a large ledge on the left (shared by 'The Odyssey').
30m 13 From the right-hand side of the ledge climb diagonally right past white roots and continue up the corner to the top.
Starts about 75m west of 'Fanny's Ridge'. The slab from which the climb is named starts half way up the krantz. It presents a greenish grey appearance and is bounded on the left by a buttress of broken blocks ('Emerald Crag').
[8] XXm
The first pitch leads upwards to the left to the base of a cleft in which are two aloes.
?m 10 The second pitch goes up the cleft to the base of the slab, the lower portion of which is 8 standard.
?m 13 Third and subsequent pitches ascends straight up the slab, although a traverse from the slab to either side leads to easier rock.
The climb starts at a low buttress slightly jutting forward.
[9] 17m
Climb a series of blocks in a shallow recess on the right of the buttress to a large ledge on top of buttress.
11m 8 Climb short chimney up to second ledge.
25m 11 Up chimney formed by pinnacle buttress leaning against face to a small cave and belay. This is the crux pitch and can be done in two portions.
4 25m 13 Climb through roof of cave (crux) and then up closed grassy crack to top.
The climb is on the left-hand wall of Remhoogte Gully going up. It is opposite the climb 'Gully Crack', i.e. it starts about 30m up the gully and follows a diagonal crack running up the wall from left to right.
30m 13 Start at left hand edge of ramp below the crack. Ascend 10m and then move right into crack. Ascend crack to small tree.
8m 8 Continue up crack and then scramble to the top. Instead of scrambling to the top after the second pitch, a pleasant variation can be climbed 9m to the right (13, 22m).
Start 12m to the right of 'It's A Happening'. There is corner here with two trees about 2m up and another at about 6m.
20m 13 Starting in the corner climb the face diagonally left then back right to the upper tree. Move about 2m above the tree then traverse to the left for 6m to a ledge and tree belay.
12m 10 Behind the ledge is a small sloping ramp. Immediately to the left of this is a shallow groove. The route goes up this groove to a large grassy ledge then up to some large blocks, slightly left to meet the top of the first pitch of 'It's A Happening'.
40m 13 To the right is a gently sloping slab about 50m high. Start on the left hand side of the slab working up to the right of a dead tree then back to the left. Then move up and diagonally right on small but adequate holds to the right hand edge where there is a small but good stance.
12m 11 Move out to the centre of the face and straight up to the top.
Start at a recess below a prominent overhang about 10m to the left of the meeting place.
[13] 45m
Move up the recess until it is possible to step left onto the blunt arete on the left end follow this to a cubbyhole (7m). Step across onto the right wall end climb a steep crack to a recess. Climb the right wall of the recess until it is possible to step back onto a large ledge. Scramble up to an obvious belay beneath a steep wall. A prominent recess leads off to the right.
40m 13 Start at the right corner of the wall. Move up until it is possible to traverse delicately across the face to gain a prominent ledge slanting to the left. Move along the ledge to an obvious jamming crack. Climb this (7m) to reach a horizontal ledge. Traverse back right and climb up close to a prominent arete (10m) to reach an obvious ledge and belay.
15m 13 Above are two parallel cracks. Start in the right hand crack until it is possible to swing into the left hand crack and thus to the top.
This is a direct route following the line of the ridge on the left of the recess forming 'Porthole Crag'. Start in recess slightly left of ridge forming left wall of recess of 'Porthole Crag'. Move left to ridge and follow directly to top. Last pitch follows groove directly above the 'porthole'.
Note:
The porthole of 'Porthole Crag', actually is a hole through 'Porthole Ridge' about 35m below the top.
Directly opposite 'Skeleton' cavern is a steep wall topped by a series of open books leading up diagonally leftwards. Scramble 10m up to the base of the wall. The route starts at the base of the wall approximately 5m to the left of a long prominent overhang which occurs very close to ground level.
35m 13 Ascend the wall in a shallow recess (strenuous) to a slight overhang. Traverse right to a comfortable ledge with tree (15m). From the ledge ascend diagonally leftwards through a pronounced series of open books to the top where a large tree in the centre of a gully may be used as a belay. The crux is on the wall at the beginning of the pitch.
At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.
An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face.
A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.
The climb is situated on the first sizeable face on the right hand side of the kloof, ascending. The face is topped by a prominent overhang.
[11] 18m
Commence from the path which runs along the base of the face at this point. Ascend to within 3m of the prominent overhang where a piton belay can be made.
18m 7 Traverse left, gaining height at the same time, to a small ledge of white rock 6m up. (Fixed piton.)
12m 13 Ascend the steep red face above the stance on small but sharp grips, and finish up a crack 3m to the left of the start of the pitch.
Variation:
A slight recess midway between the normal start and 'Bat's Overhang' takes one from the ground to a point about three-quarters way along the traverse pitch.
A slight recess midway between the normal start and 'Bat's Overhang' takes one from the ground to a point about three-quarters way along the traverse pitch.
18m 7 Traverse left, gaining height at the same time, to a small ledge of white rock 6m up. (Fixed piton.)
12m 13 Ascend the steep red face above the stance on small but sharp grips, and finish up a crack 3m to the left of the start of the pitch.
Begin just right of the cave above the scree slope.
9m 7 Climb as for 'Eve's Pleasure', then traverse out to the right and up until past the tree in the open book on the left.
5m 13 Straight up in the open book. (Variation: Traverse out right at the first opportunity.)
22m 13 Climb over the crack on an overhanging slab and traverse right and then up to a fixed piton, then left and up to a block from where the overhang can be overcome. Again right and up until past the last overhang. Scramble 3m to belay.
FA:H.M. Verloren van Themaat & J. du Plessis, 1966
The start is 5m downstream from the start of 'Illegitimate' and is marked by a prominent pinnacle, whose top is a little lower than the top of the face. The first pitch takes the recess.
25m 11 Climb the shallow recess and then diagonally leftwards across the grey slab to the tree.
34m 13 Climb up the grey slab to just right of the white bulge at the foot of the steepest part of the red face. Ascend the face on good grips to a little ledge level with the pinnacle on the right. Climb diagonally left up to the top of the face.
The climb starts immediately below a small cave at a point where many prominent thick roots descend over the rock face from a tree growing out of the rocks.
22m 7 Vertically up an obvious easy rock face to a large tree.
9m 11 Up from the tree for about 3m and then diagonally right to a ledge. Scramble 12m to right into a corner (tree belay).
10m 13 Straight up the corner in the rock wall to a small overhang. Move right (strenuous 'Onderstebo' move). Continue to climb the recess to top.
Using the first grade 7 pitch of 'Onderstebo', gain the large tree.
Step right onto blocks.
20m 13 or 17 Climb a V-shaped recess capped by a roof until under the roof (4m). Break out right (13) or break straight through (17). Continue up a clean recess/ crack slightly to the left to the top.
The climb starts on the right hand (i.e. upstream) side of the dark face just downstream of the polished slabs ascended by 'Solo' and 'Relapse'. The start is 5m to the left of an overhang 6m up the dark face and 8m downstream of the polished slab.
[13] 25m
Climb the face using a vague recess until it peters out on narrow ledge going up to the right. Gain ledge, move left and continue directly up to the large ledge.
There are two large trees at the back of the ledge from where the shattered chimney/corner used by SOLO begins.
30m 11 Start 5m to the left of the chimney/recess used by 'Solo' at a short crack. Climb up trending slightly right for 5m on steep rock with good grips. Move left and then up to gain a short corner and continue directly up to the top.
