Ascents of Squeakeasy

So close to the top!! Fell before the victory jug!! Was so close to.vomiting once I got to the ground,

TR plus a couple of lead goes

God damn, this is good. Did all the moves first go. Have to lead it next trip.

Did a TR recce. Did all the moved and gear seems alright. Amazing route. But I heard some soft tissue tear as I moved off the mono! ouch...

Got up to the last buldge before after getting completely bottled below. Rested on gear rather than committing to the crux on hands that could barely open a 'biner. Need to remember to place a purple cam in the crux crack/ pocket reaching from the flat jug to the right. Before then in the big crack, place a red cam in the pocket below. Overall happy with my effort despite being very unhappy at the time. I think the right decision was made. Had a high left foot to get past the lower crux. Must try again. Single rock of cams up to #3 and single rack of nuts with pink tricam should do.

Phenomenal, better protected than description.

Well, this one whipped my a** today! Got crazy pumped before the business even started and struggled fiddling with gear. Amazing climb though! Keen to give it another crack

Got back on it on our last day, prepared but still a bit scared. Very smooth and controlled this time, despite a bit of a gear mix up and forgetting about one of the most useful fingerlocks on the climb. Doesn't feel too bad for the grade once you've gotten a feel for the moves and aren't scared shitless.

A very educational climb for me, definitely not as comfortable on polished, bulgy rock. Took a scary whip just after the crux after pumping out and had to take a minute or 20 to get back on and finish the climb.

Beautiful line.

felt hard

Should've led this one, but it felt too intense when i got above my gear. Down climbed it, put a rope around and toppied it.

Wonderful moves, more jammy than i expected, should be back for it

oofta .. fell on toppy near the beginning and almost came down on top of the pillar --- can see how it happens pretty easy!

Took a huge whinger off this years ago, was nice to finally come back and do it. Didn't feel much easier and was definitely fighting the pump near the top. Thought the gear was all really good it just took a bit of hanging around and getting pumped to sort out

Glad to have made the safe choice on the first try, this could have been a panic inducing lead without first exploring.

Was screaming like I’ve never screamed before. Totally messed up the top and almost lost it. So surprised I stayed on.

Tiny bit of regret not going ground up on this as it felt pretty comfy but I've heard one too many horror stories about broken backs. Incredible route in any case. Delicious smears and fingerlocks along with the sickest mono I've held.

Perfect rock, loved it

Slowly regaining some core strength and confidence

the day my dream of cleaning up all the henry barber routes evaporated. spoiler alert - they are hard. thunder crack gave me hope. I guess the fact that he basically soloed that thing should have been and indication of the absolute dominance of the man.

was in a horrible headspace to start, but got through the apparently dicey bottom section, but i'm never worried about the beginning of a climb because i'm never pumped there. got to the crux pumped out of my mind and fell on a brassy. we both heard the brassy set and thought that it never coming out. however it was set in just the way i was advised to not place brassies, with contact only near the end of the nut. still pumped, still scared, I decided to finish what I started. i climbed back into the crux, realised there were no beans to be found and whipped again. well i got that nut back that's for sure.

thanks for the belay Ethan, sorry the fat winger hurt your toe. but it was really cute you were still proud of me for trying hard enough that i fell.

Nearly there ✨

Out-fucking-standing.

Been a bit scared to try this route as it has a reputation for being a bit of a benchmark and I'd heard plenty of stories (two which happened during this trip) of people pulling gear and having either huge or consequential falls.

Anyway, my quiet goal of onsighting a stout Henry Barber classic is fulfilled and it couldn't have been closer really. A full blown thrash fest with meteorically pumped arms, worryingly high heart rate, calculations about how far I'd fall if the (several) concern-inspiring cams skated out of the shallow pods, and ultimately the biggest grin when I knew I was home free on easy terrain.

Stoked to the moon, last climb of the last day at my favourite place for this season.

Maybe one day I'll try to repeat it in hiking boots and just on nuts like the man himself. Maybe...

Some quotes from my second:

"I'd be scared to lead that if it was bolted...in a gym" "what the fuck" "what is that" "the feet are shit smears but at least the hands are bad"

Such a good route happy to get it first burn after a few weeks of crack climbing, worked out the gear and moves went down pretty easy

Interesting climbing with sometimes spaced but otherwise good gear. A difficult route to attempt to onsight, but happy that I have it a go. Hardest i've tried on onsight in a long while.

Huge props to Ben for his impressive onsight attempt on this. Great climbing, felt hard for 22 even on top rope