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Route as trad in Eskimo Nell

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
10 Eskimo Nell

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

  1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

  2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

  3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

  4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1968

Trad 130m, 4

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