Northern Group Guide

From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up.

Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top.

Very pumpy.

Start: Start near the top left end of the wall.

Harder and bolder than the original.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

Traverse as for "Follow Your Nose" and keep going, past "The Fortress" to a bolt on "Lord Of The Rings".

Start: Start as for "Follow Your Nose"

Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

Start up Fortress to 2nd bolt, then right and up trying very hard to avoid going back L into the original (and better) version.

Start as for Slinkin' Leopard, then head left after the crux "drive by" through punchy boulder (trad) then finish up Fortress.

Straightens out Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin' but go direct and up to the end of the L-wards traverse

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors.

A righthand finish to Slinkin'.

Start: Start as for Slinkin'.

Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse.

Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard".

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer

Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company.

Start as for "Wackford Squeers".

The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard.

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem.

Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct".

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

As for Wackford Squeers Direct, then arbitrarily follow the difficult C-shaped sickle to the L in the upper section (rather than the obvious line of least resistance).

Very hard crux down low after the pocket (which sadly was a chip ?). Use a short draw and/or a good belayer if this is at your limit as you will fall a few times here.

Continue straight up on the R side of the top bulge. There is a very good 3/4 cam placement in a key handhold here so perhaps best to carry it with you and place it at your waist after using it.

Soft for the grade and contrived, but the climbing is good.

Up Henre Bolte through its crux to the break, traverse L for 2m into the top section of Wackford Squeers and over the top bulge as for that.

Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day.

Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.

1. 13m (17) Crack and chimney to terrace.

2. 29m (16) Easily up on right for 3 metres to the big diagonal ledge/break. Traverse down left to the end of the break and step left onto the wall. Continue up steep, juggy wall right of "Going For The One".

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed". Feel like it climbs a bit contrived by where the bolt placements are, but it's a fun little warm up for the main events up the hill. A cam is good for the top if you scare easily

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

Cautiously up the grey pitted face trending R to join School for Scandal.

An unprotected, dynamic crux leads into School for Scandal.

Maybe 20m below Barbed and 10m up from the Clown a doglegged thin crack doesn't reach the ground. Up seam in grey slab until desperately thin moves gain crack. Rap anchor. Gear is rather sketchy.

Start as for School for Scandal but continue up and right to small corner leading into The Clown chimney finish. Rap as for SfS. Pro is a bit fiddly, take small wires and cams.

Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.

1. 12m (12) Struggle up chimney.

2. 36m (-) Traverse right onto easy-angled shoulder and on to nice layback crack on right. After this, move past large ledge and up corner to another wide ledge. An alternative is to move left at the start of the pitch and go up unleasant narrow chimney (grade 12).

3. 30m (7) As for final pitch of 'Beau Geste'

Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top.

Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor.

Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge.

"An obvious leftward-curving line starting high up on the buttress, not far right of the all finish of 'Going For The One' ." The Carrigan guide (ad hence the Shepherd one) has it starting 2 metres right of pitch 2 of 'Barbed' but that doesn't fit the description of the start "under a tight, awkward roof". In fact it appears to be the huge roof-flake up high on the right, which is on the left of the final scramble section of 'Beau Geste' etc. Approach from the right under a tight, awkward roof and then follow the diagonal line over some steep walls and overhangs.

This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise.

Wanders up the left side of the buttresses. A bit scrappy but worth a look.

Start some distance uphill of 'Beau Geste', just left of a deep horizontal break.

1. 24m (10) An undercut start leads into a wide crack. At top, step right and up to ledge.

2. 10m (-) The crack above.

3. 18m (10) Pull up steep wall and continue upo crack and jug-strewn wall.

4. 20m (10) 'Layback' crack on steep wall up left to terrace.

5. 30m (12) Pull up on flat holds just right of undercut arete and then up to top. This is just left of Beau Geste's final pitch.

Not a bad pitch. Could be used as a start for 'Artificial Insemination'.

Crack about 10 metres left of Beau Geste, avoiding top overhang to right (dirty)

Another long ramble, about half of which are bits of existing climbs.

1. 40m Climb A Whale of a Time until level with the big terrace on the right. Step left and belay on the shoulder of the ridge.

2. 25m Diagonally left to the base of the left-leaning line (the right-hand line is Court Jester – steep and loose).

3. 25m Up left-leaning line, to finish steeply up right wall – highlighted by a classic mantelshelf and incut jugs.

4. 20m Easily up ridge to terrace.

5. 30m As for 5th pitch of Beau Geste.

Another pleasant ramble.

Start: At toe of buttress just left of "Beau Geste"

1. 35m (-) Follow prominent line until it fizzles out. Step right and up to good ledge. This pitch has also been climbed slightly to the left.

2. 25m (-) Up front right side of buttress, over overhang and nice wall then up next wall past ironstone jugs to spacious upper ledge. The first two pitches have been climbed as one but rope-drag is a problem.

3. 25m (14) Climb prominent crack, curving right to arete. Climb arete and continue easily. Belay near top of major left-leading diagonal.

4. 20m (-) Broken corner to big ledge.

5. 30m (-) Top pitch of "Beau Geste"

A good pitch but a bit out of place with only easy options for approach and finish.

Start at second belay; this is also the second belay of "Beau Geste", at the top of the neat little corner.

Climb orange wall up and right to arete and continue up arete until it joins the original line (crack curving in from left) and eases. Continue easily to belay.

This great little pitch is not really more direct but it is a good finish to this route, especially if done with the Grade 17 variant, or to "Artificial Insemination". Tiny cams are essential.

Start: Start around left of the top pitch of "Beau Geste" at a prominent right curving corner. Climb the arete and face left of the corner.

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

A fairly good direct line with a few nice sections and an exciting finish around the overhang at the top of the face. Big cams needed on first 2 pitches.

Even better if finished via Noddy's face 'A Whale of a Time Direct Finish' around left of last pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Start from the terrace, at the base of Beau Geste's second pitch corner.

1. 20m (13) Follow right-leading ramp, then wide crack to ledge. There other belay options higher, including a tiny stance just below the roof but this is probably the most convenient spot.

2. 25m (18) Continue up the line to the roof with a difficult section not far below the roof. Exposed moves out to and around the lip of the major roof-crack.

3. 30m (7) Final ptich of 'Beau Geste'.

Pleasant access route to the big terrace.

Blunt, slabby arete starting 10 metres right of Beau Geste.

Follow 2 corners to easy ground, aiming for large left-facing flake. Pass this on left and up.

Start: Start at short corner 2 metres right of 'BA Mosquito'.

A wonderful excursion all the way. Takes steep wall between Tale of Woe and Bung.

1. 45m BA Mosquito to terrace.

2. 50m Bridge up block then wall to Tale of Woe, which is followed for a few metres to a vertical line. Swing up this until you can trend a bit left to the next steep line. This leads direct to the terrace.

3. 30m As for the last pitch of Beau Geste.

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Looks great but is just OK.

Begin up Tale Of Woe then step right and follow sinuous line up and slightly left on wall.

Similar to Bung.

Start as for Bung but after stepping right continue straight up the wall rather than following line.

Climb Harlequin Cracks until it’s easy to move out onto the left wall. Follow arête, finishing up line past the left edge of the Harlequin Cracks roof.

The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.

1. 36m (10) Up line to ledge taking care with some loose blocks just before the belay.

2. 12m (8) Avoid the bottomless chimney (grade 12) by climbing the face out right up to the terrace.

3. 32m (10) The best line is to continue up the left-facing corner directly above. Alternatively, traverse 3 metres right to a shallow corner. Up this, loose blocks to ledge, traverse 5 metres right to another corner and up to top.

Start: Start as for 'Harlequin Cracks'.

1. 15m (18) Take short orange corner just right of main line. Step right at roof and up to peregrine ledge. Seam to right of corner is also grade 18 but mossy)

2. 33m (-) Pull over into line above and follow all way, with slight step left half-way up, on orange rock.

Very good, but beware the runout halfway up the 1st pitch. Some say that the poor protection is not a problem given the straightforward nature of the climbing. However there is also the case of a leader who backed off this and went on to 'Orestes' for his next, successful, climb.

Start 4m L of 'Salami'.

1. 35m (17) Not well protected through half height, although technically not too hard. Crack to ledge at 3m. Take fading crack then face to a ledge. Traverse 2m R to huge flake, then meander R over blocks to belay at the top of Salami's chimney.

2. 15m (16) The crack up the middle of the buttress between 'Salami' and 'Salami DF', with a fun roof. Belay on terrace, or continue up easy ground for another 15m.

A variant that links P1 of Calabrese into P2 of Salami.

1. 35m (17) Up Calabrese P1 until the comfy ledge at about 20m (optional belay, as for Calabrese). Instead of stepping right to the flake as for Calabrese, continue up the thin intermittent crack, to join the sharp undercut flake on P2 of Salami. Once past this, build an anchor.

2. 20m (-) Dawdle to the top.

1. 36m (11) Monster left-facing corner to ledge on right.

2. 15m (9) Move left under overhangs to a sharp, undercut flake. Up the flake to ledge.

3. 30m (10) Either scramble up to the right or, from left side of large, scrubby ledge an undercut start leads to shallow, right-facing corner.

A good finish for 'Salami', starting from the first belay.

Climb steep cracks and corner above the first belay.

This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.

1. 36m (11) As for Salami P1.

2. 11m (5) traverse, through crack to the right to belay.

3. 10m (1-2) scramble up to small boulder next belay.

4. 15m (6) up small face to the right, follow up and around left to overhang and ledge.

5. 25m (12) from end (rightmost) overhang, crux first move out over the overhang for an awesome finish.

Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left.

From 'Salami', move right onto wall at horizontal break. Up past bolt then up and left to crescent-shaped ledge. Up this past two carrots then hard moves up right. Rap rings.

As for IM, then take extended leftward finish up the mighty headwall. 30 metre rappel.

Start: Start as for 'Industrial Muscle'.

From conifer below 'Salami' climb face on right for 2 metres. Traverse right to weakness in bulge, then straight up.

Prominent broken diagonal right of 'Salami'.

Start at short red corner some metres right of 'Salami'.

1. 30m (12) Follow red corner then taverse right across mossy slabs to base of diagonal. Belay a few metres higher.

2. 23m (12) Take the diagonal, ignoring branch on right wall to big ledge.

3. 15m (12) Follow either of 2 short corners to next ledge.

4. 23m (12) The diagonal continues to tricky exit above 'Salami' Corner.

Takes the prominent roof.

Up clean flake and over roof.

Climb middle of face right of 'Goonkachoong'.

Good corner.

V-corner a few metres right of Goonkachoong.

Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary!

Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper.

A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall.

The original route followed the line L all the way, but a far better finish is to step airily R off the sloping ledge and up the headwall at a fairly solid 19 (as described).

Large cam/s size 4 or 5 could be handy at the bottom and small ones stepping off the ledge.

Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall.

Traverse right into the left-curving crack and follow it past a bulge. From just past overhang move out right onto face and up.

A direct on Rosshalde. Up the slippery seam past 2 bolts, follow Rosshalde to the roof and then R and up past another 2 bolts. Take lots of long slings or double ropes. After the first 2 bolts there are good small wires where Rosshalde traverses in but they are hard to see, and after rain the placement sometimes fills up with sand - a nut key may be handy to clean it out as they are pretty crucial. Might be 23.

Thin stuff.

Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left into the crack of Mysteries. Undercling the crack to gain gravelly crimps past two bolts, then easier ground above.

The most attractive climb here. The start requires some small micro cams to protect adequately. If you're not confident at the grade it is recommended to rap in to pre-place or double check the first bits of gear. It is a good idea to anchor your belayer until a few pieces are placed as the consequences of a fall are very serious.

Start below vertical seam that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to single bolt, up past desperate crux then easier ground. Lower offs at top.

The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.

1. 15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into 'Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.

2. 20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right to Model Phantom and up steep face.

Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde.

Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.

Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'.

Ramon

Serious unprotected overhung arete right of 'Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below.

Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops.

Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'.

Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes.

Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of 'Spanish Eyes', the start of the second pitch of Gardener's Delight. Pull up onto wall and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings.

Nice line with fiddly pro.

Thin line up face just around right of Cundall's Arete.

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section.

A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route.

A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks!

Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.

The original start steps off the pillar at the 2nd bolt (left hand in pocket), and is a couple of grades easier.

Toby Pola - pulling on above the direct start... but below the original start!

Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete.

Tweaky

Climb the bulging arete to the right of Pooh Sticks - beware the tweak factor!

Good route but runout.

Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from Pooh Sticks.

A few jugs then run-out to first RB, which is clipped while leaning well L off poor handholds and facing a possible groundfall. There's another RB then DRB lower-off.

First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch.

Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.

1. 26m (12) Diagonally up wall to short left-facing corner. Up this, over the small overhang and up the line to the terrace.

2. 18m (11) Pull up onto the undercut wall 3 metres right of the cave (Spanish Eyes starts at the cave) and traverse left to the prominent crack. Up this to finish right of the overhang.

A fun novelty, involving some airy bridging between two aretes.

The arete left of Mohawkman, pulling onto the pinnacle for the final moves.

2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff.

Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall just right of Gardener's Delight.

The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix.

Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff. Righthand slab route with hard start just right of Mohawkman.

Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived and generally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side...

Start: Down right of the 'Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack.

Climb wall just left of wide crack and go up to ledge on the left. Step up and right into left facing flake-crack and follow it.

Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam.

Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'.

Up face past 2 FH then move right and up to ledge. Step back up left onto the face, up and left to middle of face. Up past FH to break, step left and up to anchor. Some people have had trouble pulling the rope so be careful where it runs over the edge.

Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start.

Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.

1. 12m (19) Climb past the bolt to the crack, avoiding touching the flake that is on your left. Finger-crack and thinning seam to large ledge.

2. 18m (14) Move right and up to next ledge. Climb the wall to ledge with abseil anchors for A Goat's Song.

Ultra technical face climbing.

Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of 'Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song).

The good section hardly makes up for the horrible start and way off.

Start: At lowest point on wall.

Better than AGFTG despite sharing the start and much the same finish

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

1. 25m (19) Up the mossy slab then take orange diagonal on the steep wall just right. At the top of the diagonal, step right and up through overhang to ledge.

2. 25m (-) Line on right wall of gully.

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

1. 25m (18) Diagonally right up moss to ledge. Climb wall above a faint rock scar, thence up left into lichenous weakness and back right to stance.

2. 25m (-) Straight up, heading right at top.

Not worth the star. Protection is a bit fiddly to get though it is good on the hardest moves.

Start: Originally started as for A Gift From The Gods but is better as for 'Dingbats'.

1. 20m (17) Go up to ledge. Step right and go straight up compact orange rock being careful not to stray right into 'Dingbats'.

2. 30m (-) Up slightly left on good rock to easy finish. Better would be to traverse easily right for 10 metres to the Shiraleee abseil anchor.

Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.

1. 20m (14) Straight up then step left to gain ramp leading diagonally right.

2. 30m (14) Step left and climb bulging groove on good rock.

Tenuous climbing into the orange scoops that would have been very scary before microcams. Deserves to be climbed more often and might be now that the abseil anchor has gone in

Put up in a rainstorm during which a child almost drowned in Central Gully!

Start: Start below line of orange scoops.

1. 25m (15) Climb easily up just left of the smooth face to orange rock and up into the line to the overhang. Traverse right and then back left above the overhang to rap-anchor.

2. 30m (9) Abseil off of follow jugs up the line.

A direct start and finish to 'The Shiralee' makes for a very good climb. Take some tiny cams and a #3 (blue) Camalot in your rack.

Start at short crack 6 metres right of 'The Shiralee', up blank wall past pocket (crux and no gear) to crack in overlap then up wall. Quite good climbing on spaced gear. Traverse R to chains on I Am An Expert on Bananas

Takes the deep crack not quite reaching the ground right of Crumpet then step left and up wall past 2 bolts. Traverse off to anchor on Banana Expert

Take right hand line through overlap right of Tallness (the flake on left line is hollow), up past bolt through bulge then easy ground to nice wall. Step left and finish as per Tallness past 2 bolts. Traverse R to chains.

Up black and orange clean streak left of Cold Episode of Influenza, 2 bolts plus gear, take micro cams and a 3 camalot. Rap anchor.

Takes the low angled groove at right end of wall. Shares anchor with I am a Banana Expert.

The Beatuitiful Possiblities of the Northern Group! Ok, maybe not quite, but it is a delicate line up the front of a buttress. Gear is fiddly. Up seam right of Cold Episode, continue up front of buttress and through overlap at top. Traverse to anchor on Banana Expert

Up wall left of easy crack, past 2 bolts and small bulge. Take a 2 RP.

Up easy crack in centre of wall, cross left over I will build a great wall to next easy crack.

Up wall left of Unauthorised Mice to small ledge, crank through bulge and up. Fiddly to protect below bulge and on top wall. There is a good cam above bulge on the left that you can't see from under it.

The right arete of the orange wall uphill from Tea is Full of Good Things.

On left side of arete of Lacuna is an undercut start to easy flake, then slabby wall and short corner to summit opposite Hurts Wall.

The left arete of the 'Heath Row' buttress. Start as for 'Trotskyist Tendency' and after the initial black bulge, continue up the arete.

Climbs the centre of the face left of 'Maiden Voyeur' despite continually heading for the left wing. Good climbing throughout but the regular need to step back right to avoid the left arete detracts a bit. Take cams up to 3.5 (blue Camalot). Belay as for Heath Row or on a small stance a few metres higher below the left-hand diagonal line. Move up left to the bulge at the start of the face and pull over onto the black face. Continue, keeping right of the arête. At each bolt, step right below it and climb straight past. Belay on a ledge about 5 metres above the third bolt. Scramble, roped up about another 10 metres to another good ledge that leads off into the gully below Hurts.

No prizes for guessing who put this up. Following the left-most of the ddiagonal lines this is quite a good climb. Used to be hard to locate because the guidebooks mangled the writeups of this and 'Mammary Lane'.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row' Go up into the left crack and take the wide layback flake (big cam). Finish up nice thin crack.

This and 'Maiden Voyeur' were described in the wrong order in the guidebooks so it was hard to work out where things went. The FA date in the Shepherd guide was also incorrect. The majority of this climb is very easy but the upper wall is great.

Start: Start as for 'Heath Row'.

Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur!

Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route.

Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'.

Thin flake out the roof (#3 RP).

Bald orange arete from ledge just below and right of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

Not without merit, despite the long scrambling start. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.

1. 35m (8) Potter up the easy-angled ground for about 15m until a corner leads up and can move around right onto righthand face. Follow line left past little roof to small stance above arete.

2. 35m (8) Around the steepening and follow the flake (could extend the previous pitch to top of flake and belay level with ceiling of Fiddler On The Roof) . From the centre of the wall go up and slightly left.

The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.

1. 15m (12) 'Layback' easily up left to orange overhang at 5 metres, traverse 3 metres right and move up.

2. 15m (12) V-chimney

3. 12m (12) Bulging crack then continue on rib on right wall of corner-gully until crack peters out. Belay in gully.

4. 18m (12) Traverse across right wall and climb arete and back left onto wall and up.

Some exciting moves up the front of Touchstone's big block but hasn't caught on. The tree at the start has fallen over so start may be a little more challenging. The first pitch could make a good start for 'Touch-Type'.

1. 30m (19) Bridge against conifer and onto face 7 metres left of 'Touchstone'. Go up right to the right side of the block. Traverse left into line up centre of block and up to ledge.

2. 30m (-) Step left to next ledge. Follow hand-crack and wall.

Two very nice pitches.

1. 25m (14) Follow the line diagonally left, quite tricky with poor protection, until able to go up easily. Up to right-facing corner on right side of huge block. Corner to Ledge.

2. 25m (14) Up the face for 12 metres to where the wall steepens and continue up, veering slightly left to finish just right of the arete. The original finish traversed over to the arete.

A bolted direct finish to Touchstone. Follow second ptich of Touchstone but, instead of veering left, continue directly up wall past two bolts.

Seam a couple of metres right of headwall of 'Touch-Type' and just left of the finish of The Singing Wire.

This is the name given to the most common way to finish Touchstone and isn't considered a separate climb. This was the first recorded ascent of this variant and left for documentary purposes.

Nice climbing all the way; a fitting companion route to 'Touchstone'. Follows a direct, continuous crack system in three distinct parts. Some of the first pitch is not new, but the whole climb as described is a new conception.

Start: Start 3m right of Leaden

Echo.

1. 40m (17) Climb diagonal crack up the right wall. Continue up line when it steepens and becomes thinner until a hand traverse left allows you to step across the main corner to a ledge on the left. Follow the right-hand line (the easier left-hand line is Leaden Echo) and flake system over a little roof. Continue up flake and wall to ledge (Leaden Echo's second belay).

2. 20m (17) Up balancy seam in wall straight above belay. This is left of Leaden Echo's final corner and right of Kieran's variant finish to 'Touchstone'.

The major corner system.

1. 22m (10) After a hard start, go up easily to the next overhang, which is avoided by moving onto the right wall and up to ledge.

2. 38m (10) Traverse delicately left across corner to long flake on left wall. Up flake to ledge. Taking the corner directly is grade 11 : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth 05-10-1968.

3. 18m (10) Chimney-corner.

Good overhang approache by abseil to final belay of The Leaden Echo.

Start up the last pitch of The Leaden Echo and then take crack through roof on right.

Taking the wall left of 'Honeycomb', it is highly likely that this is a retro-bolt of 'Adapter'.

Access by 25 metre abseil to small stance in corner.

Up wall past 2 bolts and small cams.

Apparently a rope is allowed for the descent, but not the ascent! Unfortunately it seems likely 'Mr Buffalo' is actually a retro-bolted repeat of this route.

Rappel down to a small ledge 4m under the second belay of The Leaden Echo. From this climb straight up brushed slab to cave. Traverse 3m right and finish up

Fantastic finger-crack up the righthand wall of 'The Leaden Echo'.

Start: Either scramble in from the right to a stance or abseil 35 metres from the anchor above 'Mr Buffalo'.

Follow lefthand weakness through bulge then move left and climb the pencil-thin crack through the overlap and beyond.

Great flake line which can be escaped at half-height but why would you?

Follow left weakness through bulge (as for Honeycomb) then up flake-line above until it rejoins arete. Continue to top, taking care with some hollow rock.

Warning Flora and Fauna: Active Bees

The obvious right-hand companion to 'Nativity'.

Start as for Nativity but take right-hand weakness through bulge. Up bulging seam directly above to arete and up to re-join Nativity.

Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt.

Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular.

Starting just right of arete, climb pretty orange wall through small overlap. Continue steeply up wall to small stance and rap anchor.

The desperate, unprotected start and the huge detached block higher up make this an unattractive proposition.

Start just left of 'Lone Pine Corner'.

Up face, moving right to overlap Over and up break between orange and black, past flake to top.

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

Use whatever you can to roll onto ledge above roof, and then climb corner. The grunt can be avoided to the right at about 12.

Start: Right of 'Lone Pine Corner' is another sweet little corner with a steep roof in the way at ground level.

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.

Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up.

Start as for 'Capilano' and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases.

A better direct.

Go straight up from start of Dr Paul.

The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.

This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

A scary direct start to Golden Echo. Looks worthless but in fact has a fascinating crux section.

Links the initial wall of Kachoong into the top of Golden Echo RHV via an exciting traverse left at the roof of Kachoong. Bring a #3 camalot for the traverse. For full value, start at the the steep crack/bulge that leads up the the belay ledge of Kachoong.

Line in between Sounds Like and Kachoong, start directly below where Kachoong is typically started, easiest to rap in from the bolts that get you to the photographer spot. Directly up the orange wall merging with Golden Echo at the left hand end of the Kachoong roof. The wall takes small medium cams, RP's and small wires. Make sure you build a good nest of gear about 4 meters before the roof, then make thin moves to the roof. Bigger gear required from the roof to the top, 0.5 to 3 Camalot.

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.

The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right.

Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and 'Moritz'.

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

Loads of steep traversing.

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

Good, pumpy wall.

Start for Hurts and at the obvious big block traverse int In Phase and finish up that route

Very good and very strenuous.

Avoids the annoying start of Cyclic and makes it into a worthwhile route, unless you are a grumpy old guidebook editor who thinks it ruins the integrity of the existing line. Up In Phase to the finger lock then step right into main line of Cyclic.

Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.

Looks awful.

Not the best part of town.

Start: Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of 'Hurts' Wall.

Nice little wall climb. Faces the same way as 'Hurts', Max and 'Moritz' but just one level below them. Appears to be a repeat of A Taste of Bin Laden.

Start: From 'Hurts', go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut.

Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. Appears to be the same as Constance Little.

There are too many aretes in these route descriptions for the available cliff! Given the absence of any thin grey walls right of either arete, I am wondering if this is the thin grey wall left of the arete of CL's wall. It didn't have enough gear to inspire me to check out the grade. Or it may be squished in between Haiku Climbing was Super and CL.

Start: Right of the arete is a thin wall. ?????

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Even when after climbing here with the first ascentionist, we're not sure where these routes are!

Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts. Unless this is also squished in with Constance Little, it appears to be the line on the next short wall heading directly to the belay for Kachoong. Felt a little more like 15 though.

Beneath Kachoong, R of ATOHDS. Up rib then corner to the belay for Kachoong.

Won't make many "best of" lists but the climbing is surprisingly good. Aside from the off chance of toppling 40m down the gully, it's more like a highball boulder problem.

Start up Cellular Destruction, but instead of traversing right, continue up the steep overhanging crack to top out 3m left of the finish of Cellular Destruction.

From the big chalked plate at the top of the gully, move up to disappointing holds from where key gear needs to be placed, then right and up to hard (or is it ?) top-out.

Only 22 if top roped or gear is in place already

By quite some margin the most pointless route on the wall - if not Arapiles - and included for historical reasons only.

Traverse right from start of "Cellular Destruction" through the letterbox slot on "Power Corruption and Lies" to the easy finish crack of "A Taste of Honey".

Up this if you must.

"Power" your way along the slopey traverse line 4m down and right of "Cellular Destruction" to a bolt.

Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#0.75 BD cam or better, #0.1 BD cam in the smaller gap leaving space for your hands).

Up (being careful not to escape out R to the easier ground on the arete and incur the ridicule of the climbing community) into Cellular Destruction at the end of its traverse and finish as for it, complete with its hideous mantle.

This has been a common warm up for the harder routes here since at least the 1990's so not sure of its FA details.

Starts at first bolt of Power Corruption and Lies by (clipping first, and then) leaning scarily and irreversibly across the chasm. Shorter people (under 180cm) will not be able to reach and will have to grab the bolt to start.

Swing onto the jugs (if you can reach) just under the 1st bolt and climb up past Power Corruption and Lies's 2 FH's to finish as for that route, thereby avoiding the much more difficult crux traverse.

Note: The same trick can be done at the 2nd bolt at about grade 23 or 24 and a slightly less reachy (but still intimidating) lean, avoiding Power Corruption and Lies's second crux.

Start about 5m up the gully from High Dive at an enormous horizontal break.

Forgettable traversing R-wards leads to High Dive, where instead of going up, the route (improves significantly and) continues along the lip of the roof that caps the Taste of Honey traverse, eventually joining that route.

(A much better variation is to start up High Dive and finish along this.)

Originally graded 30, it has settled as a solid grade 28 and offers the longest piece of continuous steep climbing at Arapiles.

Start as for High Dive (although the FA started by traversing in from Belly Flop).

At the major horizontal break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, don't trust this (back it up !), but continue anyway through to "Power, Corruption and Lies" and another, even more horrible piton. Ignore this and instead, clip the 2 bolts and continue straight up to finish as for Cellular Destruction.

(Don't escape off R to the arete after the letterbox slot lest you be ridiculed by the climbing community)

Climb "High Dive" until its crux and continue up underside of arete past 2 bolts to join "Power Corruption and Lies"

You're Terminated Direct. Open Project. Direct start possible (will require a bolt) up the blunt arete between Dark Matter and A Taste of Honey.

Direct finish possible straight over bulge after 2nd bolt on You're Terminated. Would make the line completely independent of Lats in the Belfry.

Climbs the inverted staircase just left of "A Taste of Honey" and is a superb companion route to it. Dave Jones used to solo this regularly as a warm up for the harder routes in this gully

Starts at a heavily chalked ledge low in the gully. Traverse R about 4 metres to a fixed wire before heading up on flat holds to the large break of Belly Flop. Traverse R to just before the arete, then up to the next break just below the first bolt of "You're Terminated" (virtually impossible to clip on this route). Now traverse with difficulty R around the arete to easier ground.

Finish up the lovely grade 10 headwall or backjump if you don't suffer from summit fever.

For gear, virtually every cam ever made could be placed at some point in this route, but a #0.3BD protects the crux on the arete nicely.

Linking Cavities into this can be combined for a 40m excursion from bottom to top and gives it mega pitch. Careful of rope drag - roller 'biners recommended. Or Start as for High Dive, but before the major horizontal, traverse into A Taste of Honey and along its hand traverse. At the end reach back onto the Belly Flop lip and mantle it just R of the arete up to High Dive. Continue up past previously dodgy death-block (now pinned & glued, staying about 1m R of the arete the entire way. Top out just R of the shared PCL / LITB / YT / CD finish.

Start up High Dive, finish up Belly Flop. All the fun of High Dive, a roof to finish and with none of the difficulty.

Open project. Has been attempted on natural gear using 19 camalots (hence the name). Ideally needs a bolt or three in strategic places to keep you away from the gully.

Start from the large grey and white ledge 8m beneath High Dive's start. Climb up overhanging corner into flared chimney and follow blunt left facing arete to High Dive's traverse.

Cross this, then up grey wall up and slightly left to Belly Flop's traverse line. Cross this, then up (careful of ledges on the side) to meet Power Corruption and Lies near its start. Cros this, then straight up to the 2nd massive jug on Cellular Destruction. Finish as for Cellular Banana.

A completely independent companion route to Lats in the Belfry, only longer.

Start just left of "A Taste of Honey Direct Start" at the bottom of the gully. Up overhanging crack (this was Kim Carrigan's "Cavities" from 1984) through bulge and off-width to a large grey and white ledge.

Continue more easily up corner to High Dive's initial traverse (thread runner) and step off left to finish. Given that the grade for the first half was 24, this may be quite solid at 23.

Originally described as "contrived", this route starts around the corner to the left of A Taste of Honey Direct Start.

Climb the flaring crack through an overhanging bulge into an offwidth and up to a grey and white ledge about 8m beneath the start of High Dive. A bit dirty, but also completely superseded by Dark Matter which incorporates all of this into a longer route.

Absolutely thrilling, difficult for the grade if you don't like having your heels above your head, and generally more difficult to second than to lead.

Start at the belay at the top of the pillar L of the Kachoong wall. This can be approached by "A Taste of Honey Direct Start", "Echo System" or the corner scramble between it and the Kachoong wall.

Up surprisingly easy overhanging crack to a very steep section beneath a roof with a fairly blank wall on the right. Traverse R across this wall using the line of jugs just below the roof with disappointingly few footholds to a ledge at the end and safety.

The route continues up on lovely rock at about grade 10 to the top.

The original aid line was the low crack (now known as "A Taste of Honey Variant") and the original free ascent (Henry Barber) used the roof crack above at the same grade but the best climbing is as described.

This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.

Ultra-low variant on Taste Of Honey. Traverse right along the lowest crack, just 20cm or so above the lip, with feet swinging, to the arête, then up to the ledge.

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

Up the middle of the wall left of Generation Gap, finishing up left arete. Some friable rock low down.

Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn.

Start up 'Generation Gap' then step onto right wall above roof at 8m and up.

Vigorous crack through a ceiling.

Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'.

Follow the black trench up and out through the offwidth roof.

Rap station installed.

Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone.

Start: Start at wide crack right of James.

Over roof just right of 'Pumparama' and finish up short crack.

Start: Start just right of 'Pumparama'.

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

A short route with shallow pockets. Three bolts to join Evelyn at about 2/3 height.

Thin and energetic

Start: Start at thin crack 4 metres right of 'Broom Hilda'.

Up the crack right of Evelyn then wall past bolt to where crack reopens.

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

Reputedly a tough lead.

After the initial crack on Lou, continue up just right of mossy streak to where the crack reopens. Gear is probably better than the original but still a little exciting. Look out for a 3 rock to the left of where you climb (it's in the moss) after the crux.

Right of Lou past 2 bolts and some fiddly cams and small wires

Bouldery seam between Greg Will be Amused and Lou's not 19.

Short crack. Very short.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

Start at crack under bolt, move up weakness to second bolt and through roof to fixed anchor.

Start in small left facing corner at right-hand end of wall. Follow crack to top.

The blocky staircase-like feature that leads right and up. Shares finish with Kueh Lapis. Walk off descent.

The major left leaning line on the left hand end of Nameless Wall. Tricky moves through overhung blocky territory lead to final crack to top out. Walk off descent.

Does your pussy do the dog? 10m.

Start: Start: 8m up the hill from 'Because It's There' at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff. Starts off blocky ledge and heads left through left slanting crack, then straight up to top

Feisty little overhang must be negotiated via jugs to pleasant face climbing, exit through large obvious groove to the top

The face with a wide horizontal. On the other side of the gully from - and facing - 'Stone Age'.

Start at right hand end of wall at the right hand of the two weaknesses up hard overhung start to scalloped wall, trending right, then back left and up to finish through the right hand side of the roof at a bolted anchor.