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Routes in Northern Group for selected grade

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Henry Bolte Wall
18 Get Your Bloody Fingers Out of My Nostrils

Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top.

FA: Lionel Clay & Kurt Smith, 1986

Trad 10m
18 Serious Callers Only

Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 2012

Trad 28m
Harlequin Cracks Area
18 A Whale Of A Time Direct Finish

This great little pitch is not really more direct but it is a good finish to this route, especially if done with the Grade 17 variant, or to "Artificial Insemination". Tiny cams are essential.

Start: Start around left of the top pitch of "Beau Geste" at a prominent right curving corner. Climb the arete and face left of the corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 2010

Trad 12m
18 Artificial Insemination

A fairly good direct line with a few nice sections and an exciting finish around the overhang at the top of the face. Big cams needed on first 2 pitches.

Even better if finished via Noddy's face 'A Whale of a Time Direct Finish' around left of last pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Start from the terrace, at the base of Beau Geste's second pitch corner.

  1. 20m (13) Follow right-leading ramp, then wide crack to ledge. There other belay options higher, including a tiny stance just below the roof but this is probably the most convenient spot.

  2. 25m (18) Continue up the line to the roof with a difficult section not far below the roof. Exposed moves out to and around the lip of the major roof-crack.

  3. 30m (7) Final ptich of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Roger Webb, Phillip Armstrong. Phillip had climbed the crux overhang with Eddie Ozols & Mark Shelton two months earlier., 1977

Trad 130m, 3
18 Columbine Corner

Start: Start as for 'Harlequin Cracks'.

  1. 15m (18) Take short orange corner just right of main line. Step right at roof and up to peregrine ledge. Seam to right of corner is also grade 18 but mossy)

  2. 33m (-) Pull over into line above and follow all way, with slight step left half-way up, on orange rock.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 2010

Trad 48m, 2
Shiralee Wall
18 Stone's Throw

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

  1. 25m (18) Diagonally right up moss to ledge. Climb wall above a faint rock scar, thence up left into lichenous weakness and back right to stance.

  2. 25m (-) Straight up, heading right at top.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone & Peter Woolford, 1984

Trad 50m, 2
18 Great Sleeping Weather

Take right hand line through overlap right of Tallness (the flake on left line is hollow), up past bolt through bulge then easy ground to nice wall. Step left and finish as per Tallness past 2 bolts. Traverse R to chains.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 26 Mar 2016

Mixed trad 25m, 3
Echo Crag
18 Silent Majority

Good overhang approache by abseil to final belay of The Leaden Echo.

Start up the last pitch of The Leaden Echo and then take crack through roof on right.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Jim Grellis, 1975

Trad 25m
Kachoong Area
18 Golden Echo Variant

This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

FA: John Moore, 1966

Trad 25m
18 Golden Echo

Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

FA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

Trad 25m
18 Ground Cummin

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987

Trad 18m
18 Mega

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2006

Trad 10m
18 Hurts

Good, pumpy wall.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 18m
18 Haiku

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 2002

Trad 10m
Evelyn and Lou Area
18 The Foxhole Escape

Follow the black trench up and out through the offwidth roof.

Rap station installed.

FFA: Chris Ferre, muki woods, Paul Graham & Jae Zhong, 9 Jul 2018

Trad 15m
Nameless Gully
18 The Climb Who Shagged Me

Does your pussy do the dog? 10m.

Start: Start: 8m up the hill from 'Because It's There' at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff. Starts off blocky ledge and heads left through left slanting crack, then straight up to top

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 10m
18 Apple Crumble

Feisty little overhang must be negotiated via jugs to pleasant face climbing, exit through large obvious groove to the top

Set: muki woods, 12 Jul 2018

FA: muki woods & Jae Zhong, 12 Jul 2018

FFA: muki woods & Jae Zhong, 29 Jul 2018

Trad 12m

Showing all 17 routes.

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