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Routes in Northern Group for selected grade

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Henry Bolte Wall
26 The Fortress

A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose).

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

FA: Dave Fearnley & Mark Moorhead via start from left. As described Kim Carrigan, 1982

Mixed trad 18m, 2
26 Wackford Squeers

Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse.

Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

Mixed trad 30m, 3
26 Wackford Squeers Direct

Very hard crux down low after the pocket (which sadly was a chip ?). Use a short draw and/or a good belayer if this is at your limit as you will fall a few times here.

Continue straight up on the R side of the top bulge. There is a very good 3/4 cam placement in a key handhold here so perhaps best to carry it with you and place it at your waist after using it.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Mixed trad 20m, 2
26 Bolte Wackford

Soft for the grade and contrived, but the climbing is good.

Up Henre Bolte through its crux to the break, traverse L for 2m into the top section of Wackford Squeers and over the top bulge as for that.

Mixed trad 16m, 3
26 School for Scandal Direct

An unprotected, dynamic crux leads into School for Scandal.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 19 Mar 2021

Trad 17m
Harlequin Cracks Area
26 Industrial Muscle

From 'Salami', move right onto wall at horizontal break. Up past bolt then up and left to crescent-shaped ledge. Up this past two carrots then hard moves up right. Rap rings.

FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1988

Mixed trad 30m, 3
Mysteries Wall
26 Historic Events

Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde.

Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'.

Ramon

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Mixed trad 25m, 2
Echo Crag
26 Fiddler on the Roof

Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'.

Thin flake out the roof (#3 RP).

FA: John Allen & Tobin Sorenson, 1979

FA: Re-established after a hold snapped by Paul Hoskins., 1994

Trad 35m
High Dive Gully
26 Sir Latsalot

Open project. Has been attempted on natural gear using 19 camalots (hence the name). Ideally needs a bolt or three in strategic places to keep you away from the gully.

Start from the large grey and white ledge 8m beneath High Dive's start. Climb up overhanging corner into flared chimney and follow blunt left facing arete to High Dive's traverse.

Cross this, then up grey wall up and slightly left to Belly Flop's traverse line. Cross this, then up (careful of ledges on the side) to meet Power Corruption and Lies near its start. Cros this, then straight up to the 2nd massive jug on Cellular Destruction. Finish as for Cellular Banana.

A completely independent companion route to Lats in the Belfry, only longer.

TradProject 30m

Showing all 9 routes.

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