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Routes in Northern Group for selected grade

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Harlequin Cracks Area
9 Beau Geste
1 9 50m
2 9 13m
3 9 18m
4 9 25m
5 7 30m

A great adventure.

Start below major chimney on left side of cliff.

Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.

  1. 50m (9) Up wall then chimney to terrace.

  2. 13m (9) Just to the right is a short, right-facing corner. Up this and step right to belay.

  3. 18m (9) Up righthand V-corner to roof. Move left under roof then step right and up to ledge.

  4. 25m (9) 'Diagonal' up right (as for Tale Of Woe) to huge terrace.

  5. 30m (7) Pull onto wall right of undercut arete, traverse right and go up on horizontal breaks approximately 6 metres right of arete. At ledge, move left and up. The fingery wall just right of the arete is Court Jester's finish.

Trad 140m, 5
9 Tale of Woe

A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.

  1. 30m (8) Follow the major left-leading diagonal from the terrace until it ends. Belay on ledge past first little cave.

  2. 25m (9) Diagonally right, passing large roofs on the right, finishing over a little bulge.

  3. 30m (7) As for the final pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

FA: Mike Stone & Chris Baxter, 1973

Trad 85m, 3
Kachoong Area
9 Moritz

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973

Trad 15m
Mermaid Avenue
9 Poles Apart

Delightful doddle.

Start: Start just right of 'Stone Age' up to right leaning flake

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

Trad 15m

Showing all 4 routes.

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