Ascents in The Sporting Complex

Almost took at the third bolt (cold fingers and perplexed as to where the holds were) glad I held on! A few lucky guesses saw me up this. Three unique cruxs, bottom one KPesque!

Far out, climbs better than remembered! EOD headtorch escape mission, had a foot slip through the flake. This route alone makes me wanna get a TRS setup

Cool techy moves and a mono! Was a close call gaining that ledge... Even with a bunch of chalk to help clarify holds I found this harder than Leviathan

One fall right near the top. This is a good route and should get done more often, get on it!

still falling

2 laps to verify the route/quality. Really interesting, sustained, technical slabbing/face climbing. Now the easiest route to exit the crag with.

Clean repeat. Much better than I remembered it (and much easier)! Essentially 2 boulders surrounded by easy climbing, but both boulders are rad. With some rope management, this is very achievable as a giant single pitch.

Sick OONNEEEE did in two pitches swung lead and I lead the 2nd half.

I haven't enjoyed crimping this much in ages. What a banger Frothy! Best to extend bolt 2 and 3. Rope soloed the upper section once. Then send on the second lead attempt

Clean Repeat TRS.

After chopping the original (crappy) start, re-jigging the bolts in the upper section, repairing a super key broken hold (that was forcing a weird "round the world" sequence, and meant the crux bolts were all in the wrong place), and developing a whole new (gr21) start, I needed to see if my efforts had borne fruit.

In short, this is now one of my favourite routes on the wall. I'd call it 2nd best after Life of Riley. Its rad that with a bit more route development experience, and a bit of time and effort, this route -that has always frustrated me for having a crappy lower half, and a good but poorly arranged upper half- is now one of my favourite sporty sport routes I've put up.

I really hope this gets more traffic now, because it deserves it.

Incidentally, the gr21 Bottom section (25m to the first anchor) is proper good climbing, and would happily stand next to such contemporaries at Cosmic County.

Clean Repeat. Revenge! Had to work at the top, but still managed to punch this straight out today. So much fun.

Clean repeat. Revenge! How did I fall off this last weekend? Still awesome.

Repeat attempt, not clean today. No real problems to the top boulder, but -absent chalk- it took me a bit to piece it together. Essentially, three boulders (each getting harder than the other) with easier climbing and good rests inbetween. The top headwall is super rad.

Clean repeat. Sweet! It's been a decade since I was last on this (when I ticked it) and it was rad to get on it today and just do it straight up, placing draws, without too much difficulty.

One of the best technical, sustained, and consistently clean face climbs in NSW.

Repeat attempt, not clean today. Whoops... The unsend! Totally botched the crux. Otherwise, had a great old time. This route is always so much better than I remember it being

Three more shots. Its just the crux im insecure on, the rest is so solid now. Hard to choose between shoes and foot placements.

harder than LOR

Varied classicness

This glorious "clean on second" ascent is an upgrade for my 2015 lead dog. It still felt hard.

Three tough sections - I fell off on all three. Tough duty with zero chalk. Much better the second time around knowing where to go. [2]

Only just managed to scrape my way up this. Good and sustained.

Was very thankful for a bit of chalk and beta. Definitely would not have onsighted it. The low slab crux would be "interesting" for shorties. The top section is a wandery mission.

Deserves 2 stars - similar style to the rest of the routes on the wall. The pick of the exit routes IMO. With lots of extendo draws, rope drag wasn't an issue.

Some good bits. Nice wall climbing. Helped having some beta for the middle and top sections.

Fell at 3rd bolt resulting in delicious gravel rash right down my chest, lowered to no hands rest on slab then did the rest clean. Somewhere between a flash, a redpoint and a dog A good endurance training route, quite the journey.

Stonker route - not as sustained as expected. Good beta from the fellas and a mini victory dinger from up top

Midway anchors for a warm up then up both pitches to get back out. Great climbing

Classy bottom to top. Qual beta from Jard. Qual send by Benno.

The climb itself was overshadowed by our epic approach/exit shenanigans but great climb nonetheless! Probably doesn't deserve a 4th star but still awesome! Not very sustained, basically 3 cruxes separated by jugs. Joshy gave me great beta throughout and I was delighted to find all of the hard bits very reachy! Would certainly be a tough one for the vertically challenged.

2.5 hour approach, rapped into multiple incorrect crags, broken rocks, incorrect rope lengths, full bush bash/fence jumping exit and loads of laughs. Four star mega epic and that’s just the approach! Won rock, paper, scissors for the onsight attempt then punted immediately. Couldn’t even redeem myself on the second out! A lot bloody harder than I reckoned or maybe I’m just knackered! Either way it’s a rest day tomorrow!

Three more laps on a top solo day. Lovely but no easier than riley