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Summary
Sandstone
NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!
A diverse area with a hearty mix of routes, styles, and aspects to escape the weather. Free camping!
Description
A quintessential Blue Mountains climbing and camping locations. A north projecting peninsula creates a Sunny and a Shady side, though the angular nature of the sandstone butters allows shade to often be found regardless.
Many of the various areas that make up Mt York have a distinct flavour of their own so make sure you sample as many as possible, and don't make the mistake of thinking there all the same.
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Approach
Drive west on the highway through Mt Victoria township until you reach the service station. Turn right onto Mt York Rd, and follow it to the end. Various crags are located either side of the road with Mt York proper beat the very end of the road.
A climbers track runs along the bottom of the cliff with several gullies providing access to the bottom at Galactic Gully, Masterplan Area, and Wentworths Gully.
Where to stay
Mt York has free camping courtesy of council. Please try to respect their various rules and regulations so we can enjoy continued access.
Ethic
Many and varied, please try to respect them all!
Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.
History
First climbed back in the Dreamtime.
Birth of 'Sport Climbing' in the Blue Mountains in 1979 when pre-placed artificial fixed protection in the form of carrot-bolted fixed hangers where used to establish Exhibition Wall.
Also known for a number of rarely repeated bold trad and mixed lines put up in response to the new wave of sport climbing.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
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Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
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Annika Ussel on ★★ Tin Man 19 - Big Whipper @ mezzaluna
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★ Refusal 14 - IMG_9931.JPG
★★ The Obituary 14 - IMG_0287.JPG
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Fri 2 Jun
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