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Access: Access road closed for upgrades

Perrys Lookdown access road and picnic area will be closed for upgrades from Monday 9 October to Wednesday 20 December 2023 and from Monday 5 February to Friday 23 February 2024.

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/lookouts/perrys-lookdown/local-alerts

See warning details and discuss

Created 6 months ago
1 23 20m
2 25 30m
3 24 20m
4 21 20m
5 24 30m
6 22 30m
7 23 40m

description

One of the first lines bolted at Perry's Lookdown, and one of the finest moderate multipitches in the Blueys. This recently freed route tackles the stunning aretes on the left side of a major buttress, generally staying a few metres R of Moonlight Corner.

Access by either abseil (via Date with Density raps) or walk in (check access description for this area).

Start on line of rings 15m left of A Date with Density (8-10m left of where the abseil lands). It’s worth taking a good look up the corner before you start; if pitch 1 is a bit seepy but climbable, the corner sections of pitches 3&4 may be soaking wet and unclimbable.

  1. 20m (23) - Enjoyable face and arete climbing.

  2. 30m (25) - A brilliant pitch of thought provoking slab climbing. Originally graded 24 and probably not dissimilar in style or difficulty to many other old school 24's around the Mountains. From the belay ledge make your way slightly right and up following the meandering line of bolts up the beautiful orange slab. (An additional bolt has been added to this pitch due to concern around a potential ledge fall. The pitch remains sportingly bolted yet safe.)

  3. 20m (24) - A short but technical pitch. From the belay head left and climb the face and arete to the base of a small rooflet. At this point climb around the arete and make your way up the face and corner until you are able to return rightward to the arete. Follow arete to the next belay ledge.

  4. 20m (21) - The route begins to feel airy at this point. From the belay head left into the corner following this upward until an improbable rising traverse allows access across the face and up the arete to belay ledge.

  5. 30m (24) - Follow the stunning left arete on perfect orange rock.

  6. 30m (22) - A tricky start leads to some steep glory jugs in a wildly exposed position. Move awkwardly up and off the right side of the belay ledge following grey rock up a short slab before moving back left onto the arete and up the steep jugs.

  7. 40m (23) - Interesting climbing on more excellent rock. As for A Date with Density Pitch 5 - Navigate your way up and rightward on the scoopy red rock then head straight up the low angled grey rock to the finish.

If you're looking for an easier but similarly excellent outing on great rock, a good link would be p1 of Beggars Banquet, p2 of Upstaged, then p3-7 of Regular Route, for pitches of 22,23,24,21,24,22,23.

Route history

1 Sep 2002Route setter: Justin Clark & lee cossey
2015First ascent: lee cossey

Warnings

19 Nov 2023 Warning Access: Access road closed for upgrades

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.59871, 150.34610

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

23,25,24,21,24,22,23 Assigned grade
lee cossey
25
26 [25 - 27] ++ grAId

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 21 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 2
Red point 3
Tick 12
Attempt 5

Comment keywords

jamming lip face adventurous crazy feet rest arete interesting crap crack traverse crimpy epic bail dry steep slabby weird bad short easy roof technical jugs sharp layback amazing enjoyable stoked beautiful exciting fantastic perfect classic rad pleasant sweet good super cool superb brilliant great awesome wicked fun nice crux tough sustained tired pumped solid hard fall exposed intimidating tricky committing dangerous scary runout terrifying

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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