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Fruehauf Rock climbing 38 routes in crag

Fixed Gear: Sharp old bolt next to fifth U bolt on Dildo Gaggins which has the potential to snap a rope.

Left of the 5th U bolt on DG there is a sharp single bolt protruding with a sharp nut like thing on the end. When working the Moves above it with no bolts above 5th clipped, if you fall the rope can wrap around the old bolt and tear it apart and potentially even snap it. Will post a photo of what it can do as it just nearly snapped my rope.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
38
AU
171921232527

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
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D

Summary

Sport with a touch of Top, Trad and Bouldering.

Description

Popular suburban location with easy access and a good handful of intermediate routes.

Access issues

Like all Tassie sandstone quite soft and likely to be damaged if climbed on while damp. Please all consider not climbing for a few days after rain.

Approach

Park on Tara St, in the lot over the bridge. It's a 2 minute walk from there.

Ethic inherited from Hobart and surrounds

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (hobartcraglets@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

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Guidebooks

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Mononeuron Top rope 23m
2
24 Leger Frenzy Top rope 18m
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3
17 ★ Bedside Manners are Extra Sport 18m
4
21 ★ Plastic Extras Sport 18m

This has now been bolted.

5
21 ★ Plastic Erection Sport 18m
6
25 The Chodd Sport 18m
7
27 Cadwallada Sport 15m
8
27 ★★ Dildo Gaggin's Sport 15m

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

FA: T. Caldwell & S. Claus, 2012

9
26 ★★ Gun Ho Sport 15m
10
26 Heaps Good Sport 15m

Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Contrived.

11
25 ★★ Suck Ethics Sport 15m, 6

The classic of the crag

12
27 Jack Jumper Top rope 15m
13
25 ★ Anaphalaxis Hobbit Varient Sport 15m, 5

If you're too short to do the Anaphalaxis dyno then use the good initial hold to move left to bolt and then up to the horizontal break and finish as for Anaphalaxis.

14
24 ★★ Anaphalaxis Sport 15m, 5
15
24 ★ Play Launch Sport 15m, 6
16
25 ★ Play Launch Direct Start Sport 15m, 6
17
24 ★ Wasted Daze Sport 15m
18
25 ★★ Wasted Daze RH Variant Finish Sport 15m

At the final overlap on WD make a tricky move right to join the crack. Past a U-bolt then to the WD Chains.

19
26 Mozzie Fodder Top rope 15m
20
22 ★★ Dazed and Confused Sport 17m, 5
21
22 ★ General Benefit Sport 15m, 4
22
20 ★ General Discipline Sport 18m, 4

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

23
20 ★ Bondage and Discipline Sport 18m, 4
24
23 ★ Bad Habits Sport 18m, 4
25
21 ★ Gibbon Habits Sport 15m, 5

Start with the 2 first bolts of Bad Habits, go right around the arête to the big hole and then up to the chains

26
23 ★★ Genital habits Sport 15m

Climb the crux of Genital thrust into the crux of Bad habits.

27
23 ★ Genital Thrust Sport 15m
28
21 Gibbon Tactics Sport 15m
29
25 This is Steep Mum Top rope 18m
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30
V2 ★ Big Mutha Truckers Boulder 2m

Large boulder to the right of the sport climbs. There is a low wave wall on the north side of the boulder. Start on the right hand side of the wave on jugs, move left to big sloper, bust to jugs and top out.

31
V3 Big Mutha Trucker Boulder 3m

Start very low on the far right of the boulder on big jug and low feet, bust out to the start of the V2 then finish. Fun but low.

32
V5 ★ Fruehauf Traverse Boulder

A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.

33
V4 GH Boulder

Gun Ho - The first few moves of the various climbs can be done as boulder problems as a lot of the climbs have cruxy moves in the first 4 metres or so!

34
V3 SE Boulder

Suck Ethics

35
V5 JJ Boulder

Jack Jumper

36
V3 ★★ A Boulder 3m

Anaphalaxis

37
V3 PL Boulder

Play Lunch

38
V3 WD Boulder

Wasted Daze

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Climb Tasmania Selected Best Climbs

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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20 ★ Bondage and Discipline
V3 ★★ A
24 ★★ Anaphalaxis
25 ★★ Suck Ethics
27 ★★ Dildo Gaggin's

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Charlotte Lory on ★ Plastic Erection 21

Fri 2 Jun
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