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Pensioners Wall Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 25

Seasonality

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Description

A little piece of English gritstone tucked away below the treeline just north of the mighty 'Sandinista' Wall. These short routes are only worth doing on the way to other climbing areas and are also suitable for top-roping. The crag gets little sun apart from early in the morning.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

Follow small track right from 'Sandinista' Wall for 30m to find the blocky north east facing Pensioners Wall and south facing bolted boulder of 'Moral Vandal' Block.

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The corner which veers left then back right to the top. Harder than it looks and a bit vegetated.

Start: About 30m right of 'Etendard', in the gully formed by the 'Moral Vandal' block the gully widens to permit climbing on the left wall. About 15m into the gully. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb!

FA: Greg Davies, Garry Wills, Isa ? & Stan Kucik, 1988

Start off the ledge with a hard move to the pocket (if you're tall enough you can probably reach the pocket from the ledge): continue. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb.

Start: On the right of the gully a round boulder sits on a ledge 2m off the ground. Opposite the boulder is an overhanging line formed by an 'obvious' pocket, flake and crack through the bulge.

FA: Peter Martin & Stan Kucik, 1988

The balancy face on the far left of 'Moral Vandal' Block with a BR (no piking around the arete). Finish up the seam on the right.

FA: James Falla & Mike Myers, 2000

Shocking pile of poo. The guidebook author walked past this three times before realizing it was actually a climb! Old school chimney for dwarfs.

Start: East facing wall 12m right of 'Sedition'. Don't get it mixed up with the boulder problems surrounding it.

FA: Jack Lewis & Peter Baker, 1992

Really worthless. Short and loose.

Start: Climb the line through the bulges 4m right of 'Ignition', entered from the right. Dodgy block.

FA: Jack Lewis & Peter Baker, 1992

Very good technical gritstone-like climbing.

Start: The central line on this wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorf, 2000

Bouldery start. Take some RP's.

Start: 2.5m left of 'Moral Vandal' at rightward leaning seam/thin crack. Up this to join original after BR.

FA: Adam Darragh, 1989

Packs it in for a short route and is also reminiscent of technical gritstone. Would get a few more stars if it wasn't an overgrown boulder.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Moral Vandal' at right edge of block. Marked.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983

Right variant to 'Sedition'. Much easier than the former route.

FA: Dave Mudie & Lionel Clay, 2000

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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