Now updated with all new and old climbs from the original North Grampians guidebook. Not everything has been verified, if you spot a mistake, feel free to correct.
Climbing variety on at times quality sandstone.
None
There's two ways to get there. 1) If climbing on the Western side, approach from Hollow Mt Carpark. 2) If climbing on the Eastern side, drive East along Mt Zero road for 2km. Park at the start of an old 4WD track which branches off to the right (-36.883475, 142.397560), 300m before Mt zero road passes the telephone tower. Follow the track marked with pink tape which approaches the wall in a 45-degree angle from the east (this is slightly easier than bashing in from the road.
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
First climbed in 1968, saw quite a bit of activity in the late 80's, before lying in obscurity (possibly for good reasons) until a few sport lines were put up around 2009 and again in 2017.
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
Bernie on Don’t cheat on me 21 - cheat1.jpg
Kadence on Pulled out at the last minute 19 - pulleout1.jpg
Ben on ★ Pleasuring yourself alone 22 - alone.jpg
Andreas Aachen on ★ It doesn’t fit in 24 - itdoesntfitin1.jpg
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