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I Forget Walls

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Description

A long and eclectic cliff hosting a great variety of easy to moderate sport and trad routes, walking distance from Stapylton Campground.

Be aware of potential loose rock and bring a brush and helmet as most lines are yet to see extensive traffic. All fixed protection is 316 stainless, has been installed with pure epoxy and carefully painted to minimise visual impact. All lines are equipped with rap rings or stainless clip and lower anchors with the intent of climbers rethreading rather than rappelling. If you are toproping a line please use your own draws at the anchor to reduce unnecessary wear on the fixed hardware. Packing a stick clip is worthwhile as some of the first bolts are fairly high off the deck.

The cliff generally faces West and most lines come into sun mid arvo, but there are always routes in the shade to be found on a warm afternoon. It’s a great place to be on a sunny winter arvo, but still very worthwhile if you pick a cooler day and get an early start in summer. Phone reception is a bit patchy on the walk in but ok once at the cliff.

There are still projects to be completed marked by tape on the first bolt. Stay off unless given explicit permission.

Parks Victoria (PV) have requested the use of appropriately coloured chalk in Gariwerd, please keep this in mind at IF.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

A half hour walk from Stapylton Campground thanks to an old vehicle track and the PV invasive wattle management work. Mostly on easy flat open woodland, with a short incline just before the cliff itself.

Start at the Ngamadjidj Shelter car park at Stapylton Campground. Take the right fork at the start of the Ngamadjidj Shelter Circuit tourist walking track, and when it starts to loop back left keep an eye out for a sandy 4WD track off to the right - the track that also heads to Sentinel & Guardhouse. Take this and continue along through a marshy section until it pops up a small bank and the obvious track peters out at a woodchipped clearing.

From here you can see Sentinel cave up the hill off to your left, instead go straight ahead up the valley bearing South. As the creek begins to bend right, keep heading up the left bank past a PV star picket and you will rejoin the again obvious 4WD track. This jeep track now follows the upper left bank above Potter Creek for 500m before dropping back down into the valley. Keep walking for 10ish minutes along the left side of the creek past a narrowing section until you find yourself approaching a thick and wide section of scrub stretching across the creek.

Plunge into the bush via a grass clearing (prominent huge burnt stump) off to the left 50m before the thicket at a marked track (approx gps: -36.935909,142.385252).

Continue South towards the crag for about 150m on an obvious game track through the scrub until you pop back out on open ground to the left of the creek.

Stay on the left bank of the creek and about 200m along pick up the marked trail branching off heading up SW towards the crag (approx gps: -36.939217,142.386044). After crossing a small intersecting creek, a large boulder lies ahead of the path where it forks. The right fork continues straight ahead across the hill and takes you to Brownie Points, the left track scoots steeply up the hill via switchbacks to the Bikram end of the main walls (turn right when you reach the cliff line proper).

There is a cairned trail opposite ‘Holey Diver’ that forks off down the hill at the slabby boulder and connects Brownie Points with the I Forget main cliff creating a circuit - see maps for more.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

History

History timeline chart

Adam Demmert and Joe Goding made the first recorded ascents on this cliff in 2008. Neither remembered what they climbed or what they called them, hence the name.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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