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Mt Alexander

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Description

Mt Alexander is a granodiorite peak rising ~350m above the surrounding area (744m above sea level). The rock quality varies from very good, smooth and solid, to coarse and friable in places.

There are a number of sports climbs, trad climbs, and boulder problems.

Access issues

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

The mount is ~125km north of Melbourne. Approach on the Calder Freeway (M79), and take the Harcourt exit.

To reach the southern crags/boulders:

From the "town centre" drive south on the Calder Highway (C794), turn left on Farraday-Sutton Grange road and then left again on Joseph Young Drive.

To reach to northern crags/boulders:

Either follow Joseph Young Drive across the mountain, or: drive north from the "town centre" on Calder Highway (C794) to turn right on Market Street, and then left on Reservoir road. Going straight on at the left turn takes you to the Oak Forest (mountain bike park) which is the access point for some areas.

Ethic

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Tags

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
38
1,096
6m
10
22
32
3m
25
Crystal Creek boulder field
19
41
3m
4
Kingdom Boulders boulder field
55
736
3m
33
Outer Kingdom boulder field
53
261
4m
28
Lucky Find boulder
6
10
4
Spirit Boulders boulder field
28
75
4m
9
The Goldfield boulder
11
31
5m
8
 Trad climbing,  Bouldering and other styles
65
726
13m
16
High Fells boulder field
39
160
4m
21
11
11
8m
3
Land of the Overhangs boulder field
69
1,024
3m
40
 Bouldering,  Rock climbing and other styles
43
176
9m
21
Garden Boulders boulder field
25
186
6m
11
The Diamond boulder
9
26
5m
5
Pullout bouldering boulder field
34
376
4m
12
Dog Rocks area
 Bouldering,  Trad climbing and other styles
114
2,260
8m
54
Khazad-dum boulder field
22
157
3m
20
Hillside Manor boulder field
30
59
4m
15
Boundary Lane boulder field
7
6
5m
5

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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