Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

Looks heinous!! Two FH's lead up and to the L to a rest before the crux at the third FH. Up past one BR to finish. Chain belay.

5m R. Scramble up to high first bolt on far right of the choss ledge. A few bolts lead up and R (slab) until it kicks back. A long move to a flake begins the steep climbing. A pronounced crux lunge (stopper bloc?) leaves you with the last victory move to finishing jug.

Typhon was the largest and most fearsome of all creatures. His human upper half reached as high as the stars, and his hands reached east and west. Instead of a human head, a hundred dragon heads erupted from his neck and shoulders. 5m R. Up easy start just left of the platform, then orange wall, and steepness above. The finale through a steep little bulge is a heartbreaker.

The two-legged dragon with barbed tail, often seen as a symbol of strength and endurance. 10m R. Starts roughly in the middle of the wall, under the steepest looking section up high. Stickclip the first bolt for the tricky start, then it backs off for quite some time. At the point it becomes overhanging and you’ll jug haul through to a welcome camp in a cave where you can take your shoes off and ponder the view (24 to here?). From here, it’s all business pulling through the lip and into the superb stone of the 45 degree, powerful overhanging finale where you’ll either have some arms left, or not. 19 FH’s (long draws) to lower-off. Lowering off the top requires 80m rope. When it comes to cleaning, do it in two halves (chain+biner in cave).

2m R. Stem off the boulder L past the bolt. Up the smooth tricky slab and then oodles of climbing which eventually runs into the multifaceted overhung corners just left of the big fig tree stump 30m up (steep!). The very top, up a runnel feature is super cool. The route features a number of tricky sections interspersed with good rests. May be on the easy side for 26 but I doubt there’ll be too many complaints.

The giant tree. Tricky slab start, then onwards past lots of climbing and rests to get established in a rest below the punchy final overhang. Hard to read moves. Solid.

The white wall just right of fig tree roots. R-trending line up slab. As it steepens at about the 20m mark, there is a section which deviates 2m L to avoid a loose patch. Then, a tricky roof to negotiate on the orange rock, then steeply through blocky black overhang. Pumpy, with surprising incuts and jugs.

The monstrous hound Garm guards the entrance to Helheim, the Norse realm of the dead. 2m R. Another R-trending line. Stickclip, because it’s tricky just getting off the ground. Put a 1m sling on second bolt, and step R. Like Monster, you have a roof to pull at half height, but it’s a bit easier.

Closed. 5m R of Garm at black corner crack. The rippled top arete is amazing with a heartbreaker finale! Take a handful of 1m slings to reduce drag. At least 20 clips.

“Five cruxes!” Starts 4m R at black slab with tree against cliff. Tree can be climbed to pre-clip first bolt before starting from ground. Good solid rock the whole way with at least 15 quickdraws and a go-for-it attitude required. 70m rope might work - tie a stopper or use an 80m.

The best piece of stone on the wall. Vertical, pure technicality with a brick hard crux traverse. Channel your favourite 80s sport climbing hero, and remember to vulcanize. Ringbolts.

Up past a few bolts to perch beneath roof overlap. Inventive moves to get over this before stepping right to encounter balancy Frog Buttress-style face climbing to the top.

Span start to jug on slabby feet, left rock is out. Ride it baby...

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.

This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland completed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains.

Start on obvious jug above the end of the large boulder. Thug your way past the steep, blank barrier to rejoin Thunder vision at it's crux.

Want to know what the moves on a 27 feel like? Well you can try just about all of the hard moves right of the big boulder! Starts as for Event Horizon but heads right over the boulder. Needs a few more bolts to get to the lip of the cave. Absolute sickness!

Start as for arty project, traverse right on hangers then up steep wall tending rightish. Don't forget to breath! The loss of a good hold high up has made this harder.

The big roof at the left end of the crag is steep and powerful. Stick-clip the first bolt(s) then boulder up to the roof, out the flake, and round the lip. Up headwall more easily to chains. Classic!

Low traverse begins near Cecil and finishes up on Iron Paw. Crux is a drop down move into the base of Iron Paw, mind the dab - hence the name.

Line of bolts left of White Chump, starts with a big move.

The line of bolts left of Eat This G-Man. Steep And Powerfull

The overhanging, black arete left of the offwidth crack. Up past bolts to top-out.

8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise', starting below the fragmented crack. Varietal, unique and quality climbing. Hard boulder problem to get established in the crack, following this all the way up until it fades into a flared, shallow seam at half height and then straight up thin wall through breaks, with a cruisy finish up the final headwall to top out and tree belay. Generous and solid gear placements grace the entirety of the route.

Same start as Fast Day In Paradise but branch off onto the right line of bolts. Top out.

2 metres to the right of route three. Easy past two old fixed hangers to rest under roof, then crazy jump move, only possible if you're tall, then slightly pumpy wall to top. Mix of old hangers on easier ground and new ring bolts on harder sections.

Start as for Riptide before trending up and right on the face to finish at the top of the arete as for Slice and Dice

Start as for Slice and Dice before traversing up and left to finish as for The Snitch

Stand start match on the obvious corner block above ledge. Move up through block and into obvious corner crack. Follow to top where it is dissected by a diagonally left sloping seam. Move through obvious pocket/block at the bottom L-hand end of this seam and continue out left to sharp jug. Move up and R to finish in obvious pocket. Scope for extension.

The only roof problem here! Sit start as far back as you can right hand crimp left hand finger jug then top out. careful not to dab on back wall as you top out. warning must be low tide and make sure there is no swell or small swell to do this problem.

Stand start on jug undercling and sloper sidepull. Up and to the left via toe hook trickery.

Located on the rock platform on the right you walk past at the main beach

Very thin climbing up a blank section of wall. Leave Bereska at half height and climb the thin right wall past 2 bolts

An easy bold start, leads to the crux of Killer Clowns from Outer Space

Visionary bolting by “The Waynes” has, via strong attempts by Paul Riviere and George Fieg, resulted in a very hard wall climb past badly positioned bolts. The placement of a ring bolt has made the climb much safer though no easier!

Clip the first bolt with a stick, then follow the hanging arete to join Horticultural High

Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.

Start on the slab, traverse the whole boulder not using the top.

The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.

Pitches of 23 (Trad), 26 (Sport), 24 (Trad).

P1 (23) Brilliant technical trad climbing, a fun warm up.

P2 (26) Be careful getting to 1st clip (easier for the tall)move up left side of FH then step gingerly across right to sloping ramp. Follow a line of fixed hangers up a sustained wall of technical climbing to get to the pedestal belay (13 draws).

P3 (24) Hard start with potential to fall onto belay as the 1st bolt is quite high up, place a long sling when rapping in. Once going, it features tenuous bridging, followed by quality crack climbing in a suburb position.

Its helpful to rap in on a long static (100+m), makes for a quick escape if required

Diagonally right through slight cave and straight up (crux) to the second set of lower offs. Rebolted & Extension added 2004 - Wilde/Jefferson

Just left of Foghorn, reach the start jug off the top of the boulder. Follow fixed hangers up and right into cavelets. Then traverse left past ring to kneebar rest. Clip another ring then a tough final move to the anchors.

Starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner

Climb 5/6 of Haasnoot been done, then go across left and up staying on good clean rock. Long quick draw length required around the corner and for the last bolt runner of Haasnoot been done.

Start in the back of the cave, out to rooflet and up via interesting holds to the sting in the tail and double bolt anchor.

One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total.

Climb PYP to the plonka, then go left to join troglodyte below the anchors of pitch 1. Climb 2 bolts of trog pitch 2 before climbing up and right past a fixed hanger to independent anchors (seized wiregates). Shenanigans to avoid terrible rope drag.

Climb PYP, past it's crux. Then head hard left through small stalactite, steep but good holds. Joins in the last part of Troglodyte second pitch. A number of the draws need to be extended more than you'd think to make life easier.

An endurance resistance monster! Climb "Pull ya Plonka" then continue along the massive overhang to finish 5m left of the black leg anchors. Take long draws and about 4x 600mm slings

Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just right of "Sugar Monster"

Legless miner, continuing into COH

Start in the very back of cave, some sharp holds lead to some funky knee baring and roof moves.

Climb Trotter's Trifecta 2 to anchors, then keep traversing out right pinching and kneebar to anchors at lip of cave.

Climb the hanging prow to finish on Pinching Pigeons. Batman to first ring then head out on the pockets to a big dyno.

Sharp, tough start from ground up to an easier finish. Straight up, starting 4m left of PP start U. Might be a warm-up if you batman to the first bolt.

As for SOABD for first 3 bolts. Punchy move up & right to gain good rail and a slight stance. Pump on up using small edges to tricky redpoint crux move at last bolt. Skip or clip? After last bolt head across right to Talc anchors. Classic climbing

Awkward to get over inital buldge then reach out left to clip 3rd bolt from ledge, then punch hard!

Right of The Dreaming Wall, just left of the big tree. Up thin start to an interesting finish below the upper wall. Lower off as for Dreaming Project.

Start below burnt out stump, up the thin steep wall past 5 fixed hangers.

Hard fingery and sharp start into thin crack then straight up the wall to common anchors

V5 or V6 take your pick, either way its great! Start on jugs for A Crow, traverse left to starting holds of Donotello. Now straight up and finish as for Donotello. Drop off.

JJ

This is the standing start to Crow. It’s a one mover, but still a great problem!

Use slopey ramp with left hand and side pull with right hand, pull on and pop up to good edge. Then across to right jug for a matched finish.

• A technical boulder
• Start sitting underneath start of Fight Milk, using left hand corner jug and right hand undercling edge just above the ground.
• Traverse out right using any holds and feet to 2nd last Donotello crimp rail and Donotello finish crimp. Right side of Donotello start is out. Two hands match crimp to finish.

Line between TEoS and TCoM, starting in the back of the cave on obvious bulge in cavity. Punches straight out to edges, finishes up and right, to same finish as TeoS on the flat ledge.

Sit start low on good edges. One move up to big obvious big juggy ledge then take the pocket with your right hand. Tops out up to the left on crimps or be the first to dyno from the pocket to the top! (The main good hold after the pocket has since broken, now around V6?)

Start as for EoS, use 2 pebbly crimps with left & right hand to gain a sloping left sidepull.

Pop up to good ledge, some sneaky foot shenanigan's will help. This one chews the tips.

Sit start low and left on obvious jug, move up and right through features to pocket. Continue right into crimps in dish, big moves up and right then mantle. Probably done a while ago.

Unknown, possible project

Start looks impossible but descent further up

Thin ledges to shallow right pocket, left pinch and then up to the right

Stand start on arete with LH on a small crimp, RH on the pinchy sidepull. Hard moves up and right off bad starting feet.

Burly SDS to NE14

The holy grail complete link up of 'SS', past the wasp nest and through 'TIAB' in reverse. And seeings you've come this far why stop now? Complete the trifector by tacking-on TST.

The first rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club.

The Evan's Stone block is split in two forming a small cavern. FC is burly offwidth roof traverse through this underground crack. Sit start at the far end on double knee bars, traverse right and finish by touching the tip of the large hanging chockstone. A wild and unique fight awaits you.

Start on burly undercling, then choose your own adventure through the mixture of differ holds: crimp, pinch, jam, slopers up to the right trending horizontal rail

Stand start, delicate laybacking up the obvious feature to mantle top-out.

Up crimps and leaning arete left of Vulcanology, over pond after rain.

Sit start on the obvious sidepull with your right heel up by your hand.

Start on the same juggy hold as for Bus Driver. Low traverse of smooth slopers and ledges to the right. When you hit the end jug or sloper (further right), head up through a micro-crimp/crystally top out.

Blunt arete, with a fairly high wide pinche to start.

Sit down start with foot locks. Lots of offwidth grunting

Sit start at very bottom end of worm hole (cave). Writhe, grovel and squirm your way towards the light without dabbing. Take a headlamp. *This little low-ball ripper is also Gara's 1000th logged route.

Sit start low on uphill side of boulder on the good edge for right hand. Pull up with right hand (or try matching) to good edge, then up to sloper on arete, to the nice crimp facing the wrong way, up to the bottom of the flake scar and mantel to top out.

Stand Start at corner of arête on obvious R-hand crimp & L-hand under roof. Move up & L before finishing up through big pinchy/slap-happy lip & topping out. Sit Start potential for a couple of extra grades...

As for QR but continue R along features in seam and poor feet until you reach obvious edge & pocket in roof then up and mantle.

Start on tiny crimps and dyno to horizontal break, then up to top.

Stylishly links the two Catacombe climbs. Start matching on the sloper/lump and chuck feet on where you can. Strong moves down through the 'Catacomb Roof Right' route in reverse (try saying that quickly), before traversing low and transitioning into the Catacombs route. Beware of the dreaded dab during transition.

Start as for Spiderskin, but climb the obvious feature to the left where it ends. Then a very long reach to the left onto an slopey sidepull, then up to edge and then mantel finish.

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers.

Up thin seam, past FH then up to the easier corner. Good #0.3 in horizontal break to the right and if using double ropes there is also a good 0.2-0.3 in horizontal break on the left. Continue up to anchors on block at top.

As for Tipitina. Up the steep wall trending left along seam then back right and up to chain in Fingertip Control (placed there by misunderstanding - but left there). Four bolts in total.