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Description

More classic problems, the most popular being 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' and 'Diplomatic Immunity'. Starting to get polished.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Probably gonna need some after this. Start right of burnt tree, past the obvious break. Probably easier for the tall.

Can you reach the diamond? Another spicy highball! Straight up from below the flake. Crimp ledge to the left is out.

FA: Jared Yeo, 2 Jul 2020

One for me one for you. Tic taccy finger warmup. Probably avoid the cracked jug.

Mauricio Chino

FA: Postman, 6 Jun 2020

Start low and go straight up.

Straight up the slab next to the arete.

Up the sloping slab.

Start on the two pockets and straight up the slab.

Hallelujah, I believe... undercling the big feature, then praise the lord and grab the good edge above.

Phillip Booth | Mauricio Chino

FA: Adam Griffiths

Start on the sloping undercuts and up to the ledge.

Slab right behind Ali Baba. Stand start off crimp rail, head straight up.

Straight up the middle of the slab from the crimp rail.

Single move to the top of the boulder.

Start in the big pocket and dyno to top of arete to jug. Then carefully up ramp.

Mauricio Chino

FA: Tim O'Neill

Start El Kooko and dyno up left around the corner to the starting jug of Pump Action. Finish as for Pump Action.

FA: Joe Hodgson

Start low 'matched' on the flake down below the roof. Gain the juggy ledge and lunge to starting pockets of Ascension Day, finishing up and left as for Ascension Day. Knock it down a grade if you exit via jugs.

Start: Sit

FA: Paul Westwood

Start on pockets (use a cheat stone if you have to) then tough around bulge skipping the jugs out right.

FA: Matt Wilder

Sit start low and move through beautiful slopers to roof and finish up jugs. The best problem in the Balkans?

Tsz Ying Yau

FA: Rob Saunders

Start as for El Kooko 'matched' on the flake below the roof and move right to finish up 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'.

'Sloper Dan Low' eliminate. Climb 'Sloper Dan Low' up to the crimp before the top rail then go direct to the horn.

FA: Chris, 16 Sep 2020

The original problem, hardly done anymore. Link the start of 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' into 'Ascension Day', exiting to the left of the horn. (Jugs are off).

As 'Boogie Knights (Original)', but exiting right of the horn via jugs as on 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. Significantly easier finish than the original.

Start: Sit

Mauricio Chino

FA: Matt Wilder

Start = as for El Kooko. Traverse right staying (very) low and finish up Snakebite.

FA: Diego DeDiana, 2010

'Boogie Knights' starting as for El Kooko, topping as per Ascension Day.

"Low Down Boogie (Eliminate)" with the 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' finish.

Oliver Chen

Start 'matched' on the low start below the jug rail of El Kooko as for Sloper Dan Low. Climb across this problem all staying low all the way into and then up Shell Shocked.

FA: Daniel da Silva

Sit start as for 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' climb across into the start of Shell Shocked and finish as for that problem.

FA: Charles

Up the concavity just right of 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. Mantle into left undercling then all the way to the rail then over. More sustained and committing than it looks.

FA: Tim O'Neill

Not worth the extra effort!

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into El Kooko.

FA: Fab, 9 Aug 2014

Sit start below Akhtar on the obvious slot and climb only the low lip left into Boogie Knights original finish. Knock a grade off for the variant finish.

'Chest Rockwell' lip traverse with 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' finish.

Start 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic' and climb to jugs just left of tree, up to crimps & dead point to slopey rail to finish out left. Probably a grade easier if you move a bit left into undercling & climb as for Shell Shocked.

FA: Damien Alexander, 10 May 2015

Start as for Chest Rockwell & finish with Captain Courageous Left.

FA: Damien Alexander, 10 May 2015

You have to go really fast for this one, like the Pakistani bowler! Stand start and mantle to left crimp and leap to top, then over.

FA: Tim O'Neill

Not worth the extra effort!

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

Pinch the plate, paste your feet and reach around bulge to crimp to join I10.

FA: Matt Wilder

Jump start to jug then over.

FA: Adam Griffiths

Sit start at the arete with butt on the ground and hands on the shelf.

There is lots of sitting on your arse for this one! Sit down for the first jug, then up, have a seat for the next move, up again and over … sterling!

Phillip Booth

FA: Tim O'Neill

sit/ crouch start on chalked jug rail to the left of diplomaic solution. moving up through crimps without using the usual holds on diplomatic solution for hand and feet. top out directly through dimples over the edge.

FA: Bill Zhou

Dyno from the start of Diplomatic Immunity to the top of I Am Twelve.

FA: Joe Hodgson, 2011

Sit start low in the chalked break on jugs then into the vertical seam, contort yourself (unless short) then up and slightly left to top out.

BBB

FA: Rob Saunders

Start as of The Invisible Gerka (obvious break), big move left into the pocket, then up and over via jugs. Goodluck shorties!

Chris Beers

FA: Pete Balint

Start as for Flubdub and The Invisible Gerka. Head straight up in between the 2 problems via some micro crimps. "V6" from Neil... Big pinch of salt...

FA: Neil Wallace

Start on the obvious break, move right up through the line of micros to the large pocket and finish with top out.

FA: Rob Saunders

Start up Diplomatic Immunity and traverse right through slopey break to finish up The Invisible Gerka, some where between hard V8 and V9/10

FA: Patrick Reynolds, 2017

Eliminate on The Invisible Gerka, skipping the large pocket and direct up through the crimps. (Can be easier or harder, depends on your finger strength)

FA: John Bignold, 7 Sep 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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