Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Nice sit start to airy top out.

Directly below Overexposed (towards Welcome Boulders, maybe 15m) there is a highball. There is a diagonal crack line (trending up and right)The problem has room for a small boulder mat on a rocky ledge then there is a steep ramp and drop beyond that small space. Have a good spotter or 2. The problem is easy just mind the loose rock and big fall. Fun.

1 star - Sit start then straight up on good flat holds.

Stand start with high slopey holds. Up and left.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start way back in the cave on the low flat jug. 3D climb your way out and around using body and hand jamming to scramble up the boulder and out the top to glorious sunlight.

Sit start the right arete. Gaston/layaway to the top.

Deceptively difficult

Surprising thin face.

Sit start Rh on Sloper plate, Lh on low side pull.

Bridge and thrutch your way up the big chimney in the back of the fully. Then commit to an easy but very exposed mantle out to the right. Don't fall.

Up crack.

Stand start, straight up. Feet are small but there.

2 stars - Face problem on good crimps.

John Newby - 03.42

1 star - Easy slab moves tending left

Straight up the the left side of the face, with some holds from the left arete.

Sit start. From the big low ledge, rock over to get the underclings on the arete, and up to the top.

Stand start the scoop slab. If only it were longer!

Sit start matched in seam. Move up into sloper then yeet for topout jug.

As per Escape Artist but don't traverse, directly mantle.

Sit start, straight up through obvious crack

Up the steep wall and arête just right of the slab.

Up the middle or slightly right of the steepest, highest part of the wall on crimps.

Jump to start hold and mantle.

Sit start the sharp fang boulder.

Sit start on big crimps, and throw a big move to a ledge and up.

Same sit start as ‘Press Turtle’ but big move up.

3 stars - Up the obvious steep corner.

Tricky start up the arête onto the slab

From the start of Hot fudge Sundae, up and right to gain the small ledge in the middle of the face and mantle up

Slab on the left part of the face directly behind In Season. 3m left of No Fruit. Climbs the nice looking slab.

Slightly left of Morning O, Straight up.

Easier line up crack, tricky feet for the grade.

1 star - Up the right trending sloping lip to fun mantle.

Easy left trending arete

The best pool and parmy in Biggenden. Climb up the slab past two bolts and then up the zig zagging crack. For full value, clip the anchor with an extender and continue up the slab past 5 bolts.

1. Cool moves pulling onto the arete and up tiered face followed by some thin moves on each bulge.

2. Unprotected scramble up to corner, then plenty of good placements to single bolt anchor and natural pro.

1. 20m (19) The crack directly right of the large overhang. A fun offwidth, protectable by mid sized gear at the back, quickly turns into a smorgasbord of hand-jams and finger-locks, with solid rock and bomber placements the whole way. Trad belay near small tree.

2. 30m (10) Squeeze through the chimney behind the overhang and then chimney up the right-hand side of the boulder to get back to the summit.

Hard to get established in the crack, once in groan and grunt your way up the off-width past two obvious crux's to ledges then up faint hand crack to tree belay.

Located along the tape marked track behind the bluff. Up the line of weakness to a tricky section in the middle then continue up the offwidth crack to a small tree. You can walk off from the top.

Sit start matched on the sidepull jug. Make some moves up the arete to mantle.

Stand start wide compression. Rh low on flat pinch jug. LH on obvious sidepull. Fun dynamic movement

Tiny outcrop of rock on the left, easily walked past when approaching the boulders 'proper'. Sit start, balancy rock left to the crack and up. Surprisingly good for the size of the bloc.

As for Sanditos, but straight up the middle without using the big holds on the left or the obvious big footholds on the bottom and right.

Sit start Slip, Slop, Slap then move right following the obvious line topping out on Salt in the wound.

The off-width crack/ body chimney, try your best to only use the crack (almost impossible!). Too many features to avoid.

Start with both hands jammed in the crack. Move up and through the jugs to easy topout.

Sit start matched on the undercling. Move up, taking your time to set your soggy knuckle well before gaining the jugs to a slightly cramped mantle.

start L hand sloper, R hand rail. Go straight up to top out

Stant start Rh sloper, Lh on rail, pull up and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start off the rock matched on the obvious jugs centre wall. Breaking out left with high heel rock over to gain ledge then top out.

Please be careful, a fall here could be quite nasty!

Low start on the jugs at the back of the hand crack. Jam or layback your way out and up to the top of the pedestal. Descend as for Gun Flayer, down the V0 slab on the right.

Stand stant with wide compression, tick tak to victory.

Sit start using the crack and right hand side pull. Work straight up the prominent seam to mantle top out.

Balancy start using lower portion of right hand arete and left hand sidepull. Surprisingly tricky topout mantle into the lantana.

Gain small ledge for first bolt, find better feet and get second bolt, climb rails to crux, over lip to anchors. Stick clip first bolt if needed.

Sit Start. Left hand on small horn, right hand on good sloper to the right. Straight up for a nerve-wracking top out. Do what you kneed to!

Sit start, both hands on obvious rail. Up to the side pull and away you go.

Start as for Inspiration but climb right directly across roof to Finish Jug

Star in small cave in front left corner of cave climbing to start of Inspiration

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start matched on rail.

Start 2 metres to the right of Rename. Climbs the orange slab, until you hit the headwall with some insecure and reachy moves. Lower off.

An unknown route to the left of Pink Panzer. A long move to a large undercling guards the second bolt. Mosey upward, avoiding some questionable rock, after which a second crux can be found pulling the bulge above the ledge. Shares last 2 bolts and anchor with PP.

Six U-bolts to lower-off. Directly right of black wall. Overhanging on good holds.

Rebolted. A rising traverse which begins on the gritty apron to the left. Crappy rock in the lower half soon gives way to more solid terrain with a few delicate, balancy moves.

Hard start. Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broken off the start, increasing the grade from 18.

Heel hook start, quite sustained for the grade. Four UBs to chains.

Clip first bolt and trend L then follow crack features to anchor. Four UBs to DUBB. Stays to the L of the UBs, with "Right Of Passage" staying to the R (hence the name).

Similar start as to RoP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

3m R of HE, 6 UBs to DUBB. Clip second and go straight up. For a grade 24 variant, go out under rooflet, boulder crux, clip lip and keep going up.

Up thin black arete onto prominent flakes, RB. Straight up rain drain on RB's. Up onto and through steep orange wall. Start: Start 3 left of Tally-ho the fox

The best route here - a must-do! It's a pity this amazing route is somewhat spoilt by a vicious little start. Oh well. Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête. Up this to the FH and then a hard move past it to the break. Natural pro leads you up into the sweet orange rock and UB. Beautiful jugs up and R to UB, then up and L to a crack line. Up this placing lots of gear to ledge, then more juggyness past UB to cave. Sit and have a break before facing the rock again. Step R out of cave and up the pumpy, black, overhung groove to the top. Superb!

Start: Start 3m L of the previous route at the mini-arête.

3m L of the arête you can walk into a small enclave-corner. Climb the blocky corner (originally done on natural gear) to beneath the daunting but surprisingly juggy wall. Climb this overhang on jugs to a horrendously hard and sloping top out. The chain is way back, recommend bringing up a second to clean and rap down.

Starting about 30metres left of JG on obvious platform, with a gully/scree on the right. Scramble up to starting platform, but can belay from the ground. This is the right of the three close together climbs on the platform. Climb the jugs for four rings, before a hard topout. The climb completely changes character, as you move up the slab staying right of corner feature, while encountering a few sketchy moves on gritty rock. Anchor is way over the top out of sight.

Starting on same platform as previous two climbs. This is left route of the three. Climbs the steep wall trending left for three bolts before tipping out and continuing up slab for another two bolts to anchor.

Climb up corner trending right to pull the lip out left past 4 RBs to anchor on large ledge.

The vertical crackline 1m R of LB.

One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank.

Start: The arête 5m L of corner.

Marked BAM. Four BRs and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.

Start: 3m L of arête

After the first bolt, move up and right to a #2.5 SLCD at R of horizontal break, then around arete. More natural and FH. R into "pea-pod" then back L.

Just to the right of Herbal Tea. Penultimate route on the LHS of the crag. Excellent climb with some balancy moves and multiple beta. Well worth a go. Can be done direct in the middle of the wall probably for 2 extra grade points (22). Note: I have added this route as I found it was missing from the crag. It is not a route I put up and I have no knowledge of the name of the route (suggested to be Let's Bail by Graham Page), first ascensionist etc etc. Any info please update or reach out to someone who can.

Start as for 'Grey Nurse'.

Head straight up face after clipping 1st UB shared with 'Grey Nurse'. Nice moves up corner in 2nd half to below roof then an exhilarating push through roof to finish at DBB on prow. 5 UBs total. Great climbing and almost as fun to watch!

Starting on little platform, up into awkward corner and sandy ear past a couple of U-bolts to shield. Resist temptation to escape R to no-man's land. Balance L and up. Breaching final slab involves a tricky little move.

Slabby climbing on rounded whitish sandstone.

Start: 6m left of LF up slabby corner.

Yep, drive 4.5 hours away from frog to jam your way up some sandstone...

Up the slab (RB) passing by the cave/platform at 5m and onto the face above (be careful between 2nd and 3rd bolt). Up the lichenous face (RBs) to arrive at the headwall. There are two options here. If you climb the left line of bolts it is grade 19. If you climb the bolted corner (the right line of bolts at the top) you have climbed the 22 version. Rebolted.

Start: Start 6m L of BMSC at slab underneath Hovercraft's starting platform, behind the big boulder.

Exciting start moves followed by pleasant jug haul to top. Requires bolt plates. One bolt is too close to the rock to accept a plate, but is in an easy section close to another bolt so protection is OK.

Start: Not sure if there has been some rockfall, but it no longer seems safe to traverse onto the starting platform from the left. Accessible by climbing up the first two bolts of Overhanging Corner.

Not good.

Start: Initialled

The FH's up the massive flakes. Rap chain at top. The rock looks okay, but the big flakes on this are pretty creaky and fragile. Fun, but belayer beware.

Start: Initialled. 1.5m left of Sunny day.

A zero move problem! In the middle of the smooth flake are two very sloping hand-sized pocket-slots. Chalk like mad then hang for 5 seconds feet-free to get the tick! Pure sloper power only - pinching of any kind is not allowed.

Start out left through powerful moves to delicate stance then continue up slab moves to top passing 3 RBs to shared anchor with Redneck Hillbilly Methhead Gympites.

Start 1m right of What a Whopper. Delicate moves up to small roof up to good stance then jug haul up.

Traverse from Mystic Ways to Magic Days