Routes in Australia for selected grade

Start as for Ladder II and when you get to the jugs, head left following the rock contours and some tiny crimps to a very slopey top.

Start as per Big Mitch then a bit left and up to little dish and a crimp then to the top break.

Top out or don't top out. You do you FA https://www.instagram.com/p/B0c2HO2jWPn/

Left variant to Prometheus. Start with the undercling and the crack, head straight up.

Sam Healy

Start on the left side of the big break, do a few long moves to top out over the bulge.

Stand start with LH on the big jug ledge out left and RH on the good edge in the roof.

Follow the crack / sloper ledge to top out right.

A one move wonder. Stand start on the reinforced crimps, trust the terrible feet and do a big slap to the lip.

Liam Healy

A classic on some of the most perfect pockets you can imagine.

Stand start in the big jug under the roof and do some big moves to a committing topout.

Stand on top of the big fallen boulder to reach the starting holds. Follow the beautiful features to a committing topout.

Another Pat Reynolds highball testpiece that has not seen a repeat yet!!!

Shared start with Obsession but go directly up instead, exiting between the two horns on the slab.

Liam Healy

Sit start on the good edges in the far back of the overhang, head diagonally left to reach the side pull flake and slap your way to the top.

Liam Healy

Start off pedestal block and compress upwards.

The Plunge into Aquarius.

The Plunge into Cruel Sea.

Direct finish of Super birdman.

Michael Tonon

Start as for Nasty and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

Scoots

Mattias BM

Sage G

Standing Start

Do the first move of Abacus, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty. No traversing straight into the Sushi Train start holds.

Start up Bowels of the Devil, finishing up The Solution of 1993.

Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder.

Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out.

Start on Elliptical jug of Blinky Bill, move directly out to the slot jug, grab any pocket and go big to the letterbox jug of Mr Smiley to finish as for Mr Smiley. Never done a move quite like this outside so hard to grade. Could be harder?

Start Redetonated, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Start up Spooged, reverse Foam, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Great moves linking in to Voodoo Child.

Start at the back wall just left of the smiley face (in a small hueco), head straight out the to the infamous slopers and a thin break, finishing over left on a jug.

Grimacing into Anthrax

Man of Steel without the dyno. Aurel Gelot

Upper body intensive moves: Campus to the good hold, followed by an easy exit.

Peter Jeavons

Emmanuel Madayag

Start with left hand in pockety feature and right hand on sloper in low break. Move up to the lip and mantle.

Sit start as for "Blue Alien" heading left to a large pocket and a sharp crimp with a thumb catch. Make some difficult moves to gain the large left hand pocket on the lip before heading to the break.

Byron Glover

Short Fuse exiting via the final Persistence Boulder. Radical!

R. Hofmann

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Sheila Binegas

Peter Jeavons

Climb Anger Management to the ledge then exit left through Danger Zone.

Start as for Persistence, climb this to finish out the crack as for Anger Management.

Peter Jeavons

Starting on the slot under Major Lightweight, climb into the hueco where From Dust Til Dawn starts, finishing right hand in the 2 finger pocket, left hand on the mega side pull jug. Not a pretty climb, but one of the last sectors left unclimbed.

Dishonour into Dust Management. 50 moves of hard v13.

Start as for Persistence climbing this for about 2m before breaking off via an obvious perfect deep 2 finger pocket heading straight out to the cave entrance via some good holds. Then make a huge span move between 2 good holds heading right. Release the span via the Rodeo move and finish matched on the starting rail of Major Lightweight on the outside of the cave. Easier if you are taller.

R. Hofmann

Start matched on the large block. Make a couple of huge moves to a pocket, then big span out left to crimp side pull, head straight up the face before a scary mantle to top out. Powerful and big moves. Deceptive and seems to be rather solid for the grade.

Tom Farrell (FA) Tom Farrell

Elijah Mercado Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Start on the right of Major Lightweight on a left hand side pull and right hand edge. Big move to the pocked with the left hand, right hand crimp intermediate then to the gnarly 2 finger pocket, hand foot match the left and hold tight to pull over the bulge to small edge via sloper. Top out "RIGHT" via slopers and edges. Gymnastic and Powerful.

R. Hofmann

Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move up via small pocket and crimp to match the lip. Committing move out left and up to mantle.

Potentially already F.Aed in the late 90's

As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Liam Buckman

The alternate unethical approach to https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/sutherland/route/13097509

Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge.

Jake Bresnehan

Start Attack mode but go direct.

Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’.

More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Links into 'Special Delivery'.

Tom O'Halloran

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Start up Cheese Monster past the first crux. At the break climb right, past the crux of "Non-Dairy Cheese-Like Substitute". At the break under the roof, head straight out past slopes and edges (V9) and finish with a big move to the break. Awesomely sustained climb, vision and bolts by Robbie Le Breton, climbed by Vince Day.

Route renamed on request of Vince Day in 2020.

Lee Cossey

Start with left hand on the undercling and right hand on the pebbly hold with a mono. Move up to the two crimps, then move up to the first break. Head left to the rail, then back right to the break.

Start as for Turbo Guns but from the first break go with the LH to the gaston slot of Turbo Guns then a super long move around the bulge and finish as per Turbo Guns.

Stand Start as for Tube Surfing, traverse right to join & finish as for Better than Plastic.

Start as for Better Than Plastic, traverse left & climb Tube Surfing. This line TOPS OUT, but can be finished standing in the scoop if so desired. Take caution if topping out. The FA cleaned and practiced this on a rope prior to sending.

He says he cant but its the belief he can.

Stand-start with LH on sidepull and RH on undercling. Move up and exit left.

Sit start on good holds down to the left, move up and right through the roof, then up arête to top out.

10m of roof climbing on pockets and pinches. Starts back left of cave, head out towards the centre of the cave mouth.

No under dogs here. Shares a similar style to its neighbour Rhythm & Stealth. A lovely start up Impossible Princess leads directly into the wall above, past the Rhythm Method anchors and trending rightward and becoming rather tricky. Finishes on the same anchors as Rhythm & Stealth.

Variation to Mr Pink.

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

Tucker Time is sooooo rad. A technical boulder problem on the face down low leads to a massive rest you can bury bodies in, then truckin' on upward is another little punch followed by the crux of Super Duper Goo and finish with the best roof climbing known to man. Skip the last two bolts in the roof, get a little slack and take the cleanest 20m fall you've ever had.

Tucker Time.

Was for four years the hardest route in the country. A classic Miller route, involving a fine balance of power and precision.

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it was the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up Fantastic Mr Fox and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up Grey Area and climb to the top of the cliff.

Ever imagined what the best route in the cosmos would be like?...wonder no longer and get yourself down to DF today! The most technical, fingery, tensiony, positiony, brain flaking hard route around. There is no route better.

To avoid entirely stealing/climbing what was Ben's project (FMF), a variant was done in which all of the business of Ben's project is climbed. Hence the name.

"The Ticklish Dog". At times a link-up is better than both halves and this recent addition proves this. An absolute classic. Climb Dogbite to the bottom of the slab then go left via a fantastic boulder problem to the marginal rest on Mr Tickle, squeeze this for all it's worth then to the top of this route.

Start: As for 'Some Kind of Bliss', then traverse a loooooong way before weaving up the wall above. A mission.

Great fun. Climbs up to 1 move before Einfinger.... crux and busts out right to finish up old open projects.

Yet another impressive send by Alex, giving it hard 34. Shared start with Astral Traveller. Head up to small ledge and straight up with increasing difficulty.

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker! Stu Monique Jorge flash

Tiger Cat to the half way jugs then across right and finish as for Beta Vinyl. The Don't Believe the Hype of Elphinstone.

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat and is feisty straight off the deck with some brilliant and brutal bouldering. Suck in some oxygen at halfway then head up to join Love Cats at its crux, following this to where LC and TS trend back left. Instead peel off rightward under roof to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish. Stu

Tiger Snatch to the jump then head right into Kitten Mittens for the drive by move. Finish up Tiger Vinyl. A classic!

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook (also possible to start up 1st 2 bolts of Tiger Snatch), then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat (opinions are divided on this...) and originally given 32, but has now seen an upgrade. Andrea , Ryan

Climb Sitting Bull to the final break. Up a few moves then start heading right past bolt to come into Bandula crux. Finish as for Bandula. Lots of moves, no rest! Tom

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.

Climb Mr Squiggle, then just before the anchor head left into steepness to the top of the crag. Tom

Steep, Hard, bloody awesome 4 metres right of Who'd be a cop project. Very hard climbing thru steep territory, many a strong lad had a crack before Chris got the tick.

Rad rock, hard moves then the crux!! pull from a tiny crimp and its in the bag! Up Motor Pussy to 3rd bolt (??) then head right.

The right hand line in the 'second' cave. Awesome climbing thru a great roof to an extremely hard boulder at the lip. Good 27'ish to the lip, * . Bolted on lead by Macca and Dave. 2 metres leftt of Activation on buttress directly above where the track meets the crag Up wall to the roof, out roof, up headwall and right then thru top roof to point then jump. Excellent climbing through roof.

4m right of Up Jumped the Devil. Climbs straight up. Nowhere to hide on this. One of the best bouldery routes in the mountains. New sequence makes it a bit easier than the FA beta.

Right most arete

Sit-start on rails and pinch on left hand side of wall. Up via slopey edges and compression to nice jug Lee Cossey