Routes in Australia for selected grade

Start low on the arete and head up laybacking the arete and avoiding rocking over onto the easy slab.

Should be a king line.

Climb the flaring arete right of Bananagrams, okay holds, bad feet

Start low laybacking the arete with a good foot. magic your way up the arete and finish matching the small juggy ledge. FA up for grabs.

Stand start under roof on the right side with left hand in jam crack. Climb through the roof and up right side arrete

Stand start matched on the undercling in the back left side of the roof. pull through the roof to a good edge then finish up and right to top out.

Sit start on whatever holds are comfortable. huge through up to slopy crimp on the lip, match and head up through holds on the left.

Sit start the front of the left hand pinnacle is a very hard looking 30 degree overhanging finger crack. Hard to grade V6-V9?

As per The elusive white rhinobut don't use the large sidepull. Note that sidepull is excluded because there used to be a dead tree here when the project was originally set. Note the original name for this project is likely either the Nanook Project or the Hellhound project.

Sit start on the right hand side of the boulder with left hand on pocket under the arete and left hand on crimpy pinch. move up and left to top out as for Tàijí Quán.

Hard to grade, need a second opinion but somewhere between V6 and 8.

Stand start project on the right of the boulder finishing as for Car Parks. Right hand on good hold, left hand on nothing good

Sit start with right hand on slopey arete, left hand low on bad crimps, harder than it looks

The right arete.

Start as for Spiderskin, but climb the obvious feature to the left where it ends. Then a very long reach to the left onto an slopey sidepull, then up to edge and then mantel finish.

Sit start on good horn hold in the centre of the wall, make some big moves to mantle

Sit start then up the crimpy edges.

Sit start. Right hand on slopey lichen rain just above overhang. Left hand on crimp 30cn diagonally up and left. Feet in break. Move straight up on crimps then mantle. Do not traverse left into jug of Ant Man. Beware that 4th hold is flexing. Likely needs to break then send with what remains. Grade likely to end up around V5 or V6, but would be higher or lower depending on how things play out.

unbolted face with DBB

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

A slightly easier variant to Baccarat King. Clip the first Baccarat King roof bolt and then traverse left via a bouldery sequence on underclings until to get to the nearest Marlboro Red footer. Then straight up from there into the Marlboro kneebar and finish for that route. The second roof bolt can be clipped from the good kneebar (if you have long arms), or the sharp blade half way along the traverse. The sharp blade looks sound, but it is worth your belayer being vigilant in case it breaks!

Boulder up the beautiful right arching arete past a balancy stand up to a BR. Smear, edge and pray up through extremely thin and technical climbing.

Hard, bouldery climbing up the uniquely Gritstone-esque arête joining 'Wide World Of Sports' for the last bolt and up to the shared anchor.

Thin and powerful. 6 rings and #3 Friend. Lower off last bolt.

Not including unclimbed projects, this is the hardest climb in Nerriga.

Funky moves on immaculate sandstone through thin technical crux finally to fight the pump on final overhang.

Sit start on rail. Powerful and balancy up to squeeze the aretes. Start hold has now come off - in need of a new FA! https://vimeo.com/289030491/

starts at the back on the ledge and goes directly out (there is a intermediate crimp in the roof as well)

Some tough moves between the breaks lead to a congealed conglomerate jug and from here it will scary to the top.

Climb Brandy but use the boulder on the left for feet

Low shouldery moves from the start holds of “fat Finger” into the start of “members only”. Continue up members only to the top.

start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos

start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos

"Either a two star v6 or a one star v7." Sit start, up the face on unlikely looking holds which all seem to face the wrong direction.

Stand start on furthest right small horizontal edges. Traverse left along the horizontal edges and make a big move to the top. Mantle.

Sit start starts on the sloper and remains unsent.

A classic of the area! Sit start on good incut's, move up to the large side pull and prepare to go big. After the all points off dyno, a few nice techy moves lead to the top.

Overhung wall 5 metres to the left of “Porcelain”.

Low crouched start off RH sidepull and little LH sloper. Up and across into Lovely Legs.

Continue "Fall from Grace" left along the slopey lip till you reach the other arete and mantle here.

Sit start on pair of low undercling jugs in middle of face. Traverse out right along obvious horizontal rail to gain the right arete. Trend slightly left to gain edges over lip, before heading up and right to top out.

Falling from above the lip is likely to land you in the ankle breaking pit behind, be careful.

Found just on the uphill side of the Understing boulder.

Starting on the same arête as "2" finishes on. This sit start problem starts low with a small chockstone for feet; pull down on with two desperate sloper sidepulls and throw for the big jug.

Bouldery sit start proj on good sized holds. Funky. Named after watching a hard warm up flash by a ol timer- “was that your warm up?” The ol timer replied, "I never really cool down"

Start one hand on jug-crimp-flake below the lip at the lowest point of the cave, and the other on the face-sloper, throwing up and right ( toward the other end of the cave) to gain a decent ledge. Traverse along the reverse of Alfred to the centre and make the throw to the Bane jug.

Probably the only possible line on the boulder. start in the big undercling and jump out right to arete, cruxy mantle

Start matched in obvious crack on left side of the boulder, bust straight up to top out on jugs

Note - There is a low flake to the right that could be used as a start, but it doesn’t add to the difficulty or aesthetic of the line, and could easily rip off with too much use

Sit start with hands on the lowest holds either side of arete and feet pressed on block underneath. Stay on arete line for glory.

Stand start goes at about V2

True sit start (bum on the floor!) under the wave on the bottom bulge - with the crimpy lump LH and sloper to its right, move up with strenuous moves to gain the sloping lip, wrestle over the top out.

Difficult somewhat height dependent

Nick Foulds

Start as per Roof Ninja, after reaching the jug over the lip traverse right through slimper to good edges topping out right of the start of Like a Samurai. Only the large chock stone with the starting holds is in.

Kieran Pates

Sit start from the same undercling as River Journey. Hard moves right to gain the crimps in the middle of the short face.

Stand start using small holds on left hand side of the boulder. Ascend in glorious style. Boulders to the left are out.

Has been climbed in the past. Grade needs confirmation.

Sit start matched on low hold and up into a tricky top.

Sit start far left and traverse right on slopey holds avoiding the lip until the end of the low feature then mantle. Pumpy and fun.

Sit start on the far left with jugs and traverse rightward to topout just before the bush. Pumpy with a cruxy finish. Pretty good

Sit start. Up the obvious slopey layback groove. Committing move to the final jug.

*This climb is pretty chossy. In less than 30 minutes of punting, the starting holds and various footholds has broken off. The starting holds are now sharper jugs.

Crouch start matched on the jug undercling. Couple of powerful moves. Avoid the right elbow dab on the back boulder! https://youtu.be/HcMGlrhMkdA?t=60

Sit start low under the first roof in the obvious chossy break then up the double roof feature trending left to the top. Looks meh, climbs sick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKNnNzY3WJA

Climb 'Calling the Manager' but continue to sloper traverse around the corner to topout. Really awkward transitioning around the corner.

Sit start as for 'Jarrod's Traverse' but instead of continuing right on the seam head up to slopey edges up on the face and up to the flake to top out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4V0Ajy2U_Ls

Sit start with obvious blocky jug. Up to the seam and traverse rightwards avoiding using the lip of the boulder. Crux comes at a long move from the horizontal seam to the slopers out left and coming in for the match. After this crux topping out is trivial and can be done anywhere - for full value continue all the way around to top out where the holds end and there's a nice juggy top out.

https://youtu.be/4V0Ajy2U_Ls?t=78

Sit start with hands low along the crack. Work your way up the crack to a good left hand sloper, then set up for a jump to the lip! Beware the barn-door to wetness below!

10:10 @ https://vimeo.com/680229826

Sit start as 'La Petite Astuce'. Exit out the left face with rad moves to gain edges. The obvious protruding rock feature underneath you is out for feet (using it nets you a v3).

Sit start with both hands on the undercling. Rad moves through the overhang with sidepulls. A classic! https://vimeo.com/104841442

Face problem to sloper topout. Hard to find boulder on the left in the trees beyond Hank's Problem.

Stand start with edge. Up to slopers and tricky moves to top out.

Low start with high right hand on crimp and low left hand on side crimp. Tricky start. The rock that you start hate crime on is out. Claim the 7 if you start with your bum on the ground .

Sit start then up the arete. Awesome climbing. Stand start is V5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HWmHljwAwU

Sit start. Traverse the seam to the original.

Oliver C

Michael T

Climb as for Rover finishing via the left exit of chimney.

Climb roff then continue back over to Smokestack via Crumper moving right into and up the chimney exiting on its right side.

Sit start with RH on arete and LH in low undercling. Up to lip and top out. Boulder to the right is off for hands and feet.

Sitstart at low right jug. Move directly up to juggy lip and then head slightly right and up to mantle.

Some very tricky climbing. Start at the dyno hole and avoid the dyno ledge as well as the better holds out right. A little easier for the tall.

Note: This should appear before Dump Divers Dyno (currently No.8)

Dyno - hands on the jug below Just Don't Care and big dyno to the horn above the break. Same top.

Start matched on brain hold shared with SSSS, move left using rail and jug into crack. Finish same as Shai-Hulud.

Sit start under the small prow on the low left hand crimp and right hand low on the sloper rail. Right heel up and continue directly up the prow and mantle in the little cavelet.

Ledges and back wall for feet are not in. One of the best lowballs going.

Start on the same juggy hold as for Bus Driver. Low traverse of smooth slopers and ledges to the right. When you hit the end jug or sloper (further right), head up through a micro-crimp/crystally top out.

Sit start low and left on obvious jug, move up and right through features to pocket. Continue right into crimps in dish, big moves up and right then mantle. Probably done a while ago.

Up the nicely featured arete, sit starting with opposed pockets and up using hold on both sides of the arete. Best climb in the area so far! Unsure of grade

Tough stand start matched on the obvious hold on the left side of arete between AtA and FT. Hard for the grade. Will go from a sit start via a couple of proper hard moves. Static start for the grade, V6 with a hop.

Open for business... The full traverse from right to left. SDS on Molly's big undercling, dropping down through start holds of Speedfreak, eliminating crimps on Toot, and finishing up 8 Ball.

Sit start with pocket for LH, RH on slimps or undercling. Arete is out. Powerful pull on then drive to lip.

Left of Cruising. Sit start at good flake and dyno to jugs, mantle up and commit to the thin and exciting top out. May need a brush up high.

Sit start as for 'The Hurricaine' but instead of dropping off at the underclings continue to quest up as for 'Crosswords'/'Listen To The Wind Blow'

FA done as a boulder problem after working the top on toprope for many months. Probably more accurately described as a free solo or alternatively if done as a sit start with harness and gear a sit start to the trad climb 'Crosswords'.

Right side of arete to DBB

Incredible rock, incredible climbing and incredible position. Take plenty of draws (18ish), especially for pitch 2. Generously bolted (I think). Interested to hear what people think .

1. 25m (20) - Easy slab, face climbing. Up corner, flakes and crack. Some fragile rock. Take care on top out. There is loose rocks your belayer won't want on their head. DBB for P2

2. 40m (26-28?) - Insane pitch up crack and arete to upper bulge. The crux at 2/3 height is very cool. Come out of the corner, onto arete and face and span to a committing pop. Then easy and to ledge and TBB (18ish bolts?)

3. 25m (26-28?) - Pull mini roof to some balancy face climbing. Scoot around little prow then up and right, then back left and up to ledge and TBB. (Not sure what is happening with old rope, gear. Needs taking out).

4. 30m (26-28?) - Easy off ledge to little roof boulder. Airy and committing through roof. FA involved swinging wildly off the jug to establish toe hooks and heel hooks on lip then hands follow. Up balancy prow to ledge and TBB.

5. 30m (25) - Fantastic swooping pitch across vertical wall. Could be a sting in the tail. Up to ledge and DBB.

6. 15m (10) - scramble through vegetated corners out left to topout. Clip bolt on small exposed slab after top out then belay off big gum tree out right. 120cm sling or use your climbing rope as anchor.

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

Open project. Needs bolting. Could be great!

S1. Start on the triangular ledge, move up and left through roof to top just right of arete/nose.

A harder line the traverses the crackli

The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten.

Abseil down from tree with sling at top of dome down about 15m towards dead tree. Look for 2 bolt anchor with rings beside tree on small ledge. Abseil again from anchor 20m to slab.

Route takes the orange vertical face on thin crimps to a slight bulge with incipient seam through it. Once through bulge angle eases to anchor.

No bolts are in place yet, just the anchor.

Sit start at the left of the low face and finish at the top of arete.

To the left is a steeper harder feeling project. Getting off the ground might be the crux.

Start as for Reverse Mortgage but head right to finish on the bulgy arete, could be a scary finish above the slope.

Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure.

About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch.

Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).

1. 20m (26 M1) Traverse right to a bolt. Up arete and into corner until its possible to clip bolt on right side of corner. Aid off this to gain opposing holds on either side of blunt arete, and continue freeing for the rest of the pitch. Funky, exposed, gymnastic steep climbing, with as much down as up. Finish at Green Spandex belay.

2. 20m (27 M1 R) Climb the first 2 bolts of Green Spandex, then truck right following horizontal weakness. At 2nd new bolt (4th bolt total), clip and aid off bolt to gain reinforced jug further right. Then continue freeing along technical rising traverse until last bolt, then head directly up to gain 2 bolt belay.

NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall.

To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream.

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain lower off.