Laurentides Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.508539, -74.901978

description

Fascinating and welcoming destination, the Laurentian region is located north of Montreal. Its 22 000 km² (8800 mi²) of territory span south to north from One Thousand Islands River to the Mont Laurier; and east to west, from the Lanaudière region to the Outaouais region.

Plains and valleys of the Laurentians offer trekking over the hills and mountains and discovering a kaleidoscope of fascinating landscapes bursting with beauty. This is a little holiday realm with mountainside and lakeside cottages, lovely towns and villages, ski hills, network of cross-country ski trails, and top-notch golf camps.

Seduced by region’s nature and unique attractions, many Canadians and Americans set up a vacation home at the Laurentians.

The Laurentian region enjoys a well-deserved reputation for fine dining and regional specialties. In addition to restaurant dining, visitors can savor a meal at a sugar shack, pick apples straight off the trees, and spend a night at a luxurious inn or lodge.

A perfect destination for family vacations, the Laurentians house the National Park of Mont Tremblant, Quebec’s largest protected area. The famous bike trail known as the P’tit Train du Nord (Little Train from the North) winds its way through hills and villages for more than 200 km (125 mi). During the winter, the former railway line welcomes snowmobilers and cross-country skiers. Hundreds of destinations are there for you to choose!

Guidebooks:

Val-David: Guide des Parois d'Escalade Paul Laperrière et Bernard Poisson 1994 Les Editions La Cordee Available at La Cordée and Montain Equipment Coop

Guide des cascades de glace et voies mixtes Stéphane Lapierre et Bernard Gagnon Les éditions La Randonnée 528 pages Guide updates (2009)

Escalade de Rocher Weir Pierre Cornellier 1998 out of print

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.182028, -74.810877

summary

Unique rock type for the region, wild pristine lake with no direct road access, so no boats on the lake. Very quiet spot.

description

Sport crag. A lot of moderate to hard routes, very few easy routes. Ideal for the 5.10 climber, not so much for beginners. The routes are well equipped. Bring a stick clip, as some route have so pretty high first bolt!

access issues

The area is owned by the municipality of La Conception. Climbing is permitted even though there isn't any official agreement yet. Prepare to maybe pay acess at parking.

approach

Take the Alléluia Trail, cross the bridge, follow the edge of the lake, pass a few campsites, and keep walking untill you see a natural path to the wall. The wall is roughly 50 meter away from the lake, it is visible from the trail.

where to stay

Don't camp in the parking. Camp at Montagne d'Argent's campsite, it's much nicer, there is water, toilets, shelters and fires.

There is also a variety of camping spot at the beginning of the lake and along the approach.

ethic

Wear a helmet also to belay there is some loose rock, kids=helmet ALL the time at the cliff, bring a stick-clip, top-rope on your equipement, pick up your garbage, no fires at the crag, no chipping, absolutely no dry tooling! no stupid/dangerous/crazy dogs... only cool ones!

history

The crag was re-discovered in 2004 by Guy Parent after a long search with the few info available. Guy Parent, Charles Pechousek, Eric Paquet, Socrate Badeau and Emanuel Crevier were the main the openers of the " Golden age" of that development period. Later on, local climbers, like Jean-Dominique Saudan, opened a few lines.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.182052, -74.811724

description

Two very short routes

approach

just walk to the far left side when you reach the wall of the crag. Two short routes, steep face leading to a small roof. Fun and athletic moves.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.182041, -74.811471

description

Good area for beginners/warm up. A few moderate routes from 5.8 to 5.10

approach

Left of the approach trail

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.181990, -74.811153

description

This is where the magic happens. Chérubin is often very busy, so get here early if you want a shot a this classic 5.12

approach

The climb in front of the approach trail is Rêve orange

Summary:

All Sport climbing

approach

Starts 50 meters right of the main wall, past a do not pass beware of falling rocks sign

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.182447, -74.811905

description

Lower angled cliffs on top of Three Sister's and Main wall

approach

Walk up at the extreme left (flags), 50 meters left of "Rock the Cradle"

description

Mini deep water solo/dive rock on the side of the lake, best spot for a swim.

approach

Continue on the lake side trail for about 500 meters past the cliff for a great dive in the lake!

descent notes

Check water level before diving

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.132280, -74.675458

summary

A large selection of climbs on good granite, usually with well maintained trails, anchors, and top-cliff access for setting top-ropes in many areas.

description

Montagne D'argent is a climbing and hiking area near the town of La Conception, Quebec. Or, a more known land mark would be that it is not far from the Mont Tremblant ski area.

There are a number of well-developed cliffs on generally good quality granite.

Web site: http://www.montagnedargent.com/ (French)

Oh, and one oddity -- the guide book uses a one to 4 star rating for trad climbs to represent the quality of the protection, not the route. (This is a new and different thing I have seen nowhere else.)

Further more, it should be noted that the history of Montagne d'Argent is directly related to the owner-operator, Gaetan Castilloux, who, had initially purchased the property and subsequently transfered the property to the community of La Conception as a non-profit organisation. Mr. Castilloux is also responsible for the cleaning and opening of the majority of the crags.

A brief narrative of the history is available in the for-purchase guidebook of the area (all proceeds go directly to the P.E.R.M.A and serve to maintain the access and quality of climbs and services on site.)

As of recently, Mr. Castilloux as become the head of Section for the Laurentides section of the Canadian Alpine Club.

The local climbing community would also like to extend it's thanks for his contribution of this vastly popular and visited site.

All photo topos have been removed at the request of Gaetan Castilloux. Please buy the guide book at the registration area for topos of the climbs.

access issues

The climbing area is maintained by "Parc d'Escalade et de Randonnée de la Montagne D'Argent" (PERMA) -- primarily a climber's organisation. Daily access fee was $14 as of summer 2021, and yearly memberships ($70 as of 2021). Being affiliated with the Alpine Club of Canada, members of certain sections may climb for free upon presentation of their club membership but are still required to pay for on-site camping.

On weekends, there is generally someone there to collect the fees, during the week this is more often done on the honour system.

The site is open all year round with artificial ice falls created over the cliffs over the freezing winter months for Technical Ice Climbing.

A complete guidebook (including hand drawn reproductions, contributed by a local artist) is generally available at the hut on weekends. It has maps for access to the cliffs, and drawings of all the cliffs with routes marked on them. The current official guidebook is fully bilingual.

approach

Map your way to: 950 Rte de la Montagne D'Argent, La Conception, Québec.

Google maps link(may have to cut & past link, rather than click through): http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=950+Rue+de+la+Montagne+d'Argent,+la+conception,+Quebec&hl=en&ie=UTF8&sll=46.123493,-74.677484&sspn=0.010009,0.022724&z=16

Hike up the obvious small road to the hut (a minute or so), then after registering, hike to the various cliffs from there.

where to stay

Camping is available at the park for a fee ($14/night as of 2021) -- or it is free with annual pass.

There is no drinking water available, so make sure to bring enough water for your stay.

history

The complete history is available in the official guidebook, available at La Montagne d'Argent or in stores like MEC, La Cordée... etc.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

A 10-15m high cliff just above a small lake. There are picnic tables down at the lake, and a small swimming area, for a nice break on a hot summer day. Also, generally shady. Cliff-top for setting top-ropes is easily achieved from the right end.

Note: despite the guide indicating top anchors for most of the climbs, in fact most of the climbs anchor on trees. Be prepared for this when leading.

approach

Up the stairs left of the registration area, hike up through the Grand Canyon, then follow the lake trail from there. Walk past "Vertigineux", and down the trail a bit and the cliff will be obvious to the right.

descent notes

Easily walk off the cliff at climber's right.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

A pleasant face about 15m high. Tends to be mostly in the shade. Near the right end (normal approach end) of the cliff is a boulder pile that includes on long narrow projecting arm. (From the front, it looks surprisingly like the front of a Klingon bird of prey star ship.)

approach

Up the stairs left of the registration area, hike up through the Grand Canyon, then follow the lake trail from there. This is the first cliff that appears right beside the trail after the Grand Canyon. Maybe 30 minutes, but good trail.

descent notes

Easily walk off the cliff to climber's right.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

description

Dame Nature is a fairly short (maximum 15m) mostly overhanging wall on the opposite side of the canyon that runs along the base of the Grand Canyon wall, near the top end of the canyon.

approach

Climb the stairs from the base area, follow the trail upwards, branch rightwards at the sign for Grand Canyon, hike up along the base of Grand Canyon until you spot the obvious overhanging face on the left -- about 2/3s of the way up the canyon.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

description

A moderately high, long wall not far from the welcome area. The climbing is generally less than vertical to near vertical, and in most cases the cruxes of the climbs tend to come as the cliff rolls off at the top and the rock becomes less and less featured at that point.

Much of the cliff-top is accessible for setting top-ropes on the routes, with there being guide ropes & cabling along much of it to make it safer.

approach

Climb the stairs (or Little Beer) to the back and left of the welcome area, then follow the obvious trail up until it branches, taking the right branch (signed for Grand Canyon) and continue the hike up into the canyon.

Not more than 10 minutes from the welcome area,

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

A small cliff with a few easy routes.

approach

Up the stairs towards the Grand Canyon, then off to the left of the trail.

descent notes

Lower from anchors.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

A series of cliffs along a south/west-facing cliff line in a small valley that seems to run mostly parallel to the Grand Canyon.

There's wet land near much of the base -- so was much buggier in July than the Grand Canyon.

New cliff, opened summer 2022. Looks

approach

Leave the accueil (welcome) by the stairs towards the "Grand Canyon", but stay left on Sentier du Lac rather than right to the Grand Canyon. About half way along the ridge left of the Grand Canyon, about 50m past the out-house, look for a sign going left from the trail. Follow this, dropping down below the ridge, then turning right and keeping the faces to your right.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Currently (2009 guide) has several listed projects, but no listed routes.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

description

If you continue to follow the path left from the base of "La Petite Bière" you will come to this pair of crags. There used to be a sigh pointing the way to "Les autres bières", but that sign seems to have disappeared.

approach

Easy - walk left past little beer.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

This is an easy slab, head out left of the stairs at the main reception area, for about 20m to the obvious easy-angled slab.

This is a great first-climb for beginners, or first-lead for someone who has never sport-led before. Otherwise, it tends to get climbed as a more enjoyable way to get to Grand Canyon (and other cliffs up higher) than climbing the stairs would be.

(As of mid-summer 2011, more bolting seems to have been done on this area than described in the 2009 edition of the guide, or than existed at the end of 2010.)

approach

Easy -- about 1 minute from the campfire/reception area.

descent notes

Rappel, or walk down the stairs, or free solo down the face.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

The cliff right behind the main hut & sauna. Routes are ordered Left to Right (opposite of the walk-in)

approach

Walk up the footpath behind the Sauna and keep left at the fork (the right takes you to area Le Sauna). There are some fixed ropes (2023)

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

Some new (2015?) climbs being developed on rock between Boite a Surprise and L'Arche do Noway. Now (2021) starting to moss back over again.

They're fun slabs... please come climb them and keep them clean...

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

description

First large cliff on the left as you head rightwards from the hut. It has a large arching cracked runnning horizontally for about 20m at about 20m above the ground, for which the cliff is named.

Summary:

All Top roping

description

This is a short cliff with all top-rope routes.

approach

As you walk right from the hut, this cliff will be on the left shortly after Arche de Norway, but a 100m or so before M&M.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

description

As you follow the main trail right from the hut, this cliff will be about the 3rd cliff on your left -- but the first that is really close to the trail, and will be best recognised by the beautiful parallel splitter cracks up it.

This is an excellent face for crack climbing, and some of the best crack climbing in the region, with multiple solid cracks in solid rock that just take gear extremely well.

It has an obvious face towards the trail (on which the first 4 climbs are situated) that turns gently to angle away from the trail. On this 2nd face, M&M to Psychocrack are located. There is a bit of a seperation, and off to the right, again more parallel to the trail is a 3rd face, on which the final 3 climbs are situated.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

This is a striking face dominated by a sharp right-facing arete.

approach

Take the main trail right out of the initial encampment until you see the sign for the L'Hippocampe, at which point branch lef and up along this small rough trail.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

This is the extension of the right-side of "Hippocampe" farther up the canyon.

approach

Approach as per "Hippocampe", then continue up the canyon.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

This cliff is fairly high up, facing outwards at the top of the wide gulley defined by "Hyppocampe" and "Paroi Oblique" on the left and "Le fou" and some more broken rock leftwards and above it on the right.

It is a gorgeous and impressive face with a couple of overhanging wide cracks on the main face.

approach

Walk along the trail rightwards until you see the turn off for "Hypocampe", hike up to and past it, then past "Paroi Oblique", until you come to the face across the top of the canyon.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

The base of the fou slopes upwards from right to left, and the approach starts at the base -- so the first climbs you see are the last ones in the list.

Many of the climbs are single pitch -- but, above the lower face, there is a defnite ledge with a couple bumps, then upper walls. This does mean there are a few multi-pitch climbs, generally totalling up to 60m.

approach

Follow the path out the right side of the welcome area, until you see a sign for Le Fou at a trail branching off to the left. The cliff is just visible through the trees from the main trail, though some of the upper parts may be more visible.

About 15 minutes.

descent notes

Generally lower from anchors.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

description

This cliff has a tall (30+m) easy slab, with a few tough routes on a more vertical cliff just to the right.

approach

From the main entrance, take the path to the right, past M&M, and the Fou. Turn left at the marked side-trail, and walk a short distance to the cliff.

Mostly flat, easy approach.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

approach

This cliff is a LONG hike in.

Summary:

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 45.997248, -74.737135

description

http://www.clubmontagnardslaurentiens.com/kanata-tremblant.html

Située à St-Rémi d'Amherst Kanata est un Écovillage dans lequel on retrouve une paroi d'escalade. On y retrouve plusieurs voies en tout genre ainsi qu'un secteur de bloc bien garni.

Si vous désirez vous impliquez dans le développement de ce merveilleux projet ou pour plus d’information, veuillez nous contacter à clubmontagnards@gmail.com

access issues

La paroi de Kanata est un site, développé, aménagé et entretenu par les grimpeurs du CML affilié à la FQME. Il faut donc être membre pour pouvoir y grimper. Le développement de voies d’escalade, pose d’ancrages, coupe d’arbres, nettoyage de blocs, sentiers etc, n’est pas permis sans l’autorisation préalable de la FQME. Si vous n’êtes pas membre de la fédération, vous pourrez acheter les passes journalières et annuelles directement au Club House où vous devez obligatoirement vous enregistrer pour vous rendre à la paroi. Il est très important de mentionner que les chiens ne sont pas permis sur tout le site Kanata Tremblant.

approach

Kanata Tremblant 695 chemin Rockway-Valley, Amherst, QC, J0T2L0 (877) 734-‐3414 www.kanatatremblant.com/

De Montréal, empruntez l'autoroute des Laurentides (15Nord). Après Sainte‐Agathe‐des- Monts la 15 Nord devient la 117. À Mont-Tremblant (St‐Jovite) prendre à la sortie de la 323 direction Brébeuf. Dans le village de Brébeuf, tournez à gauche vers St‐Rémi d'Amerst. En entrant au village de St-Rémi prendre la gauche sur la 364 (il y a un petit panneau) indiquant Kanata Tremblant. Environ 2 km plus loin vous trouverez l'entrée principale de Kanata-Tremblant sur votre gauche et le Club House ou vous pourrez vous enregistrer.

À partir du Club house, vous aurez encore 5 minutes de voiture à faire et le stationnement se trouvera directement à côté de la paroi.

where to stay

Vous trouverez ici quelques suggestions d'hébergements à proximité de la paroi.

Pour une plus grandes variétés de suggestions, vous pouvez toujours consulter la page de Bonjour Québec ou encore parler à un conseiller au 1 877 BONJOUR.

Camping: Camping Domaine des cèdres: Brébeuf Gîtes et auberges: Auberge du Lac à la Loutre: Huberdeau Hôtels: Comfort Inn et Suites Tremblant: Saint-Jovite Chalets et Condos: Chalets et condos sur le site de Kanata Tremblant Le Rustique: Bréboeuf Centres de vacances et auberges de jeunesse: Auberge de jeunesse Tremblant: Mont-Tremblant

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

Section la plus à gauche de la paroi. Pour s'y rendre à partir du stationnement principal, empruntez le sentier qui se dirige vers la paroi et à la première fourche, tournez à gauche.

approach

3 minutes d'approche.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

description

Petit secteur situé directement devant le stationnement. Pour s'y rendre à partir du stationnement principal, empruntez le sentier qui se dirige vers la paroi et à la première fourche, tournez à droite.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

Section centrale de la paroi.

This is a complicated sector of huge boulders and the walls behind them, with routes on both the walls and the boulders; not a simple left-to-right wall.

approach

Pour s'y rendre à partir du stationnement principal, prendre le sentier qui fait face à la paroi et à la première fourche, tournez à droite.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

description

Premier secteur visible de la route, il est le plus à droite de la paroi. Pour s'y rendre à partir du stationnement principal, prendre le sentier vers la droite qui traverse le champ de bloc. 4 minuted'approche.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Top roping

description

Ce secteur plutôt dalleux est orienté vers le sud et il se trouve en haut du secteur Quintessence. Pour s'y rendre, dépassez le secteur Quintessence afin de se retrouver sur la route qui fait le tour de la montagne vers la droite. Marchez sur cette route pendant 150 mètres et tourner à gauche sur le sentier qui vous emmènera vers le sommet. Après seulement quelques minutes de marche sur ce sentier abrupte, vous arriverez dans une pinède situé sur un plateau et la dalle sera sur votre gauche.

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Secteur complètement à gauche

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

At the base of main cliff face very easy access park and climb

approach

Less 5 minutes

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.978172, -74.135211

summary

La paroi de Mont Baldy c'est l'endroit par excellence pour tester son niveau. Par journée chaude d'été, le mont Baldy reste relativement à l'ombre.

description

https://fqme.qc.ca/sites/mont-baldy-sainte-adele/

access issues

Il faut être membre de la FQME pour accéder à la paroi. À Baldy, on on ne crie pas

approach

(45.973170, -74.136516) Attention à ne pas se garer proche de l'entrée du voisin qui doit parfois passer avec une remorque Prenez le nouveau sentier FQME qui part vers la droite. Il est un peu plus long mais nous permet de garder l'accès à la paroi.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Première section sur le chemin, plusieurs projets en cours.

history

Équipe en 2013 par François Parent et compagnie.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

This sector is on private property and there is no negotiated access. Please be respectful of the locals in all of your interactions.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

description

Le mur le plus impressionant du secteur qui renferme plusieurs voies pour tester sa côte de grimpe sportive.

5.11b à 5.14a

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

approach

Pour ce secteur peu visité, il faut redescendre le sentier en face d’Ulysse, et ensuite suivre le sentier qui contourne la montagne par la gauche (vers le nord) pendant environ 5-7 minutes. La paroi est visible sur la gauche. Ce n’est peut-être plus accessible avec le nouveau développement résidentiel.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.924207, -74.274565

summary

Bouldering here is already well-established, but some issues (like parking, complaints) are being discussed at the moment with the city of Morin-Heights and the FQME. Stay tuned for more development.

description

Site with the crag's topo is temporarily closed due to access issues, but hopefully soon it will be back up. Only putting up problems for now to be able to log them. Feel free to add information/problems that you know.

Website: https://www.boulderinglaurentides.com/

access issues

Be respectful of others, the neighbours and the environment if ever you decide to go climb there. Don't park on the side of the road, only in permitted parking areas.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.898597, -74.253032

summary

Be respectful, be mindful of Mountain bikes

description

From parking a path is going left. After 40 meters take parh called Labyrinthe. After bump track you find it.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.901337, -74.296411

description

For Damn Daniel: From parking ( pullout on 364 ) cross river and walk on corridor aerobique for 10 minutes. Then cut in woods for 80 meters. other potential is in area 51

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.949421, -74.247251

description

To reach the 2 area of Lac Charbonneau take western trail 14 or lover's Leap 16, at junction of those 2 continue on 14 to reach 21. Area A is near junction 14 and 21. Area B is 10 minutes further on 21.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.934940, -74.274335

summary

From Parking Les Bouleaux near road 329 hike up hill on trail 19 to reach main area

description

More info is available bit for now the other website is temporary closed

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.949531, -74.257921

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.932233, -74.262853

summary

30 to 50 minutes walk from Les Bouleaux Parking. Basically trail 19 to follow green lac on north side to trail 22, 20 and 15. 45.933390, -74.260081

description

Coming soon

access issues

Tolerated

approach

30 to 50 minutes walk

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.248161, -74.477746

summary

An adventurous crag with many hard and long trad climbs.

description

This is the crag you can see on the right of "chemin du lac supérieur" when driving towards the "Parc du Mont Tremblant". It is seperated into two different sections ("Petit Nixon" and "Grand Nixon".)

Information is hard to find on this area so please update!

access issues

The Club Montagnards Laurentiens and the FQME are working to get a official access to this cliff, any access will put in jeopardy the work they are doing for all climbers.

IMPORTANT

The access as well as the crag are all on private property and the owner is not friendly towards climbers due to damage and people not following the rules. The access to this crag is thus very fragile. Many crags around the area have been closed off for this very reason.

Lets change that.

Be extremely respectful of anyone you cross. Do NOT camp. Do NOT make fires.

IMPORTANT

approach

Parking lot: (46.2427018, -74.4857661)

To get to the "Grand Nixon": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). Follow the trail straight until a "T" intersection. Going right there leads to the "Twin Towers sector" and left to the "Grand Nixon" sector. After the intersection, walk on the trail for around 50-100m and head right to an unmarked trail. Look for traces of human passage and you should eventually get to the base of the "Water Gate" sector.

To get to the "Petit Nixon": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). At some point, you will see a trail branching left, take it. After walking for around 100m, head right into the woods. There is no trail from this point. Look for the cliffs. It shouldn't be any farther than 300-400m.

description

This is the cliff on the left you can more easily see from the road. Most of it is either granite slab climbing or off-width cracks.

approach

To get to the "Petit Nixon": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). At some point, you will see a trail branching left, take it. After walking for around 100m, head right into the woods. There is no trail from this point. Look for the cliffs. It shouldn't be any farther than 300-400m.

description

Two 15 meter granite towers free standing in the middle of the forest. Many bolted climbs on it.

approach

To get to the "Twin Towers": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). Follow the trail straight until a "T" intersection. Going right there leads to the "Twin Towers sector".

description

A short, mostly overhanging crag with hard sport routes.

approach

To get to the "Water Gate" ": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). Follow the trail straight until a "T" intersection. Going left to the "Grand Nixon" sector. After the intersection, walk on the trail for around 50-100m and head right to an unmarked trail. Look for traces of human passage and you should eventually get to the base of the "Water Gate" sector.

Summary:

description

The main cliff of the area. About 120m tall.

approach

To get to the "Grand Nixon": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). Follow the trail straight until a "T" intersection. Going left to the "Grand Nixon" sector. After the intersection, walk on the trail for around 50-100m and head right to an unmarked trail. Look for traces of human passage and you should eventually get to the base of the "Water Gate" sector. Follow the base of the cliff to the valley where you will see the "Grand Nixon" and the "Roche du Roi Lion".

description

The obvious "lion king" rock standing in the middle of the valley (in front of the "Grand Nixon").

approach

To get to the "Grand Nixon": From the parking lot, walk north along the road for about 100m and turn right on the obvious trail (just before the road turns). Follow the trail straight until a "T" intersection. Going left to the "Grand Nixon" sector. After the intersection, walk on the trail for around 50-100m and head right to an unmarked trail. Look for traces of human passage and you should eventually get to the base of the "Water Gate" sector. Follow the base of the cliff to the valley where you will see the "Grand Nixon" and the "Roche du Roi Lion".

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.208495, -74.486513

summary

Une superbe paroi visible du chemin du Lac Supérieur et comprenant une vingtaine de voies de plus de 30m de 5.9 à 5.13b.

description

SITE FERMÉ Le site du Cap des Pères au Lac Supérieur regroupe deux parois de caractères très différents, soit le petit cap (fermé) et le grand cap.

Le petit cap offre plus d'une vingtaine de voies sportives de difficulté facile à modéré (entre 5.6 et 5.10). La paroi est dalleuse ou vertical et les voies font entre 15m et 20m. Cette section de paroi est fermé. Il s'agit d'une propriété privé et il n'y a aucune entente pour l'accès avec le propriétaire actuel (mai 2014). La grimpe y est donc interdite.

Le grand cap se démarque par ses longues voies sportives, toutes aussi classiques les unes que les autres. Les voies sont verticales et font toutes au moins 30m. La difficulté des voies varie entre 5.9 et 5.13b. Il faut de l'endurance et de la technique pour y avoir du succès.

Malgré son orientation sud-est, Il s'agit tout de même d'une bonne destination l'été. La paroi passe à l'ombre vers 2h30 et une légère brise du lac nous rafraîchit souvent.

access issues

Les rochers du Cap des Pères du Lac Supérieur appartiennent à différents propriétaires Qui ne donne plus de permissions . L'accès est donc strictement interdit.

Cette entente est fragile a été retiré au printemps 2019 Pour la maintenir, les grimpeurs devront être responsables de l’environnement et de la quiétude de ces propriétaires en respectant ces consignes :

Il est strictement interdit de se servir de leurs espaces de stationnement même comme débarcadère ou d’y passer pour se rendre aux parois.
L’accès aux terrains aux bords du Lac Supérieur est strictement interdit.
Interdit de camper et de faire des feux.
Interdit de donner des cours ou toute activité commerciale. De plus, les règlements de zonage l’interdisent aussi.
Obligation de rapporter ses déchets incluant vos mégots de cigarettes.
Les chiens doivent être tenus en laisse en tout temps.
Limitez le bruit et surtout les cris aux pieds et sur les parois. On nous entend très bien sur le bord du Lac. Le son porte très loin.
Le propriétaire n’est pas responsable de maintenir ou d’entretenir les sentiers. Vous utilisez les sentiers à vos propres risques et le propriétaire dénie toute responsabilité et ne pourra être tenu responsable pour tout incident découlant de l’usage de son terrain.

approach

Autoroute 15 Nord jusqu'au bout, ensuite Route 117 Nord
à droite sur la rue principale à St-Faustin
gauche sur chemin du Lac Supérieur.
droite sur chemin du tour du lac (au dépanneur)
droite dans le stationnement de l'ancienne église situé au 68 ch. du tour du lac. (1.7 KM à pied de la paroi)
Rebroussez chemin à pied jusqu'au chemin du Lac Supérieur et la paroi est bientôt visible de la route.
Marchez jusqu'au sentier balisé de rubans roses.

where to stay

Camping:

Parc du Mont-Tremblant: Lac-Supérieur
Domaine Desjardins : Saint-Faustin-Lac Carré

Gîtes et auberges:

Auberge le Versant Nord : Lac-Supérieur
Avalanche B&B : Lac-Supérieur

Hôtels:

Marriott Residence-Inn Mont-Tremblant: Mont-Tremblant

Chalets et Condos:

Côté Nord Tremblant: Lac-Supérieur
Chalet Chez Fanny: Lac-Supérieur

Centres de vacances et auberges de jeunesse:

Le p'tit bonheur :Lac-Supérieur
Auberge de jeunesse Tremblant: Mont-Tremblant

history

Unknown

description

Aucune entente n'existe entre le propriétaire actuel (mai 2014) pour l'accès à la paroi. L'escalade y est donc interdite.

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 46.169207, -74.426562

summary

Small granite crag in the Laurentians with a very short (1-3 minute) approach.

description

This is a smallish crag easily approached from the road, ranging in height from 10-25m. It offers a variety of trad and sport routes

Cliff-top access is generally doable, though may be tricky to figure out, for setting up top-ropes.

(As of spring 2011) a topo (in French) is available from: http://www.drtopo.com/quebec/246 or from http://www.fqme.qc.ca/index.asp?id=884

access issues

The site is on public land managed by the municipality of Lac Superior (not the great lake) and the Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade (FQME).

You should be a member of FQME to climb at this site.

approach

Google map link for parking: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=46.168835,-74.425464&num=1&sll=49.356499,-74.015209&sspn=8.600199,1.118575&ie=UTF8&ll=46.168805,-74.425721&spn=0.020923,0.038409&z=15

Park there, walk a minute or so west along the road, then up the obvious access trail to the cliff. Approach time 2-3 minutes.

ethic

Clean-up after yourself. Stick-clipping is expected especially on some of the tougher sport routes and they were bolted with this in mind. Don't belay off existing fixed gear. No new development of routes without authorisation of the FQME. Projects will be marked with red tape, don't climb projects.

description

About a dozen easy routes with anchors and easy cliff-top access for setting top-ropes. Off to the left of the entrance.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

description

The first sector encountered as you approach the rock, has a small pool at the bottom.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

description

The main wall, a few meters to the right of the entrance.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

description

Farther along, to the right of the main wall. Where the base starts angling upwards with some steps.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.951952, -74.135517

summary

Saint-Adèle has a few boulders scattered in the region. Since most boulders seems to have no established access, their location is not disclosed here.

access issues

No official access to many boulders. Please be respectful of the neighbors if you go around hunting for the lines.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.001690, -74.218166

summary

Val-Morin partage une partie du Parc de Val-David-Val-Morin et plusieurs blocs et voies peuvent être retrouvés à la montagne de ski Belle-neige.

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.004801, -74.217074

summary

Ce secteur accueille une vingtaine de blocs développés récemment. Le dernier Topo à jour est disponible à: https://fqme.qc.ca/sites/belle-neige/

access issues

Il faut être membre FQME.

approach

Se stationner dans le stationnement à gauche de l'entrée indiquée pour les grimpeurs.

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.030416, -74.187138

summary

Municipal park with about 500 mostly-trad routes, and extensive boulder fields.

description

Val-David, properly Parc Regional de Val-David & Val-Morin, is a municipal park near the town of Val-David, Quebec. It welcome climbers, hikers, riders, skiers, and many other forms of recreation.

There are multiple faces open for climbing, with generally well-maintained trails for access to these areas. Routes range in grade from the very easy to 5.13s; mostly 15-25m in height, though a few sectors have routes up to 80m.

There are, also, several extensive boulder fields, as well as scattered individual but significant boulders, making Val David arguably the top bouldering area in the region.

Parc information is available at: http://www.parcregional.com/

Val-David, correctement parc régional de Val-David et Val-Morin, est un parc municipal près de la ville de Val-David, Québec. Elle accueille les grimpeurs, les randonneurs, les cyclistes, les skieurs et les autres.

Il y a plusieurs parois ouverts pour l'escalade, avec des pistes généralement bien entretenues pour accéder à ces zones, et plus des boulders excellents .

Les routes rangent en grade entre très simple à 5,13; principalement de 15 à 25 m de hauteur, même si quelques secteurs ont des routes jusqu'à 80 m.

L'information du parc est disponible à: http://www.parcregional.com/

access issues

Climbing is well accepted at the park, though an access fee is required. As of summer 2018, this was $12/person/day -- though an annual pass is also available (which is free for local residents).

approach

Varies from crag to crag, but generally along well-marked and well-maintained hiking trails.

where to stay

Lots of places to stay in the local town (Val-David).

history

Val-David is one of the oldest climbing areas in Quebec.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.029344, -74.198619

description

First boulder sector after entering the park

approach

2-10 minutes from parking

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Second sector after Les Dammes

approach

10-15 minutes from parking

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.026184, -74.177698

summary

The premiere crag at Val-David.

description

The premiere crag at Val-David with some 190 routes and variations from 5.3 sport to 5.14a trad, and a height of up to 60m.

approach

Take the entrance off Rue du Lac, (parc on Rue Condor), and follow the trails and signs to Mont King.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.024273, -74.182245

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.023041, -74.184673

description

Enter from the lake road, take the trail going to Mont King. Always keep right. Their are signs to show the way.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.036643, -74.193018

summary

A collection of smaller cliffs.

description

Mont Cesaire has a collection of generally smaller cliffs, in extent of climbs if not height, fairly close to the main parking lot & entrance.

access issues

Arabesque is closed (Aug 2023)

approach

Pay online at www.parcregional.com or the main chalet, and park north of 1er Rang de Doncaster/rue du Mont-Césaire next to the street. Take a trail on rue du Mont-Césaire that will take you to Chico.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.028839, -74.195585

summary

Trad and mixed. Trail on the side for top rope.

description

Le MONT-CONDOR est la paroi la plus accessible à Val-David. Depuis quelques années, le nombre des voies y a triplé. La qualité de la roche y est excellente. La particularité du MONT-CONDOR est son aiguille, une des seules dans l'est du pays. On y retrouve plusieurs voies difficiles. Hauteur: de 15 m à 30 m (la majorité des voies ont entre 20 m et 25 m). Plusieurs des relais sont sur scellements. Les autres sont sur coinceurs ou sur des arbres. La paroi est dégagée et exposée aux vents.

access issues

National Park. Pay at the entrance for climbing.

approach

Vous rendre au chalet Anne-Piché (voir direction page 39). Du chalet d'accueil prendre le sentier (33), bifurquer à droite dans l'entrée des sentiers de raquette. Dirigez-vous vers le sentier B, jusqu'à l'intersection du sentier D. Prendre le sentier D à votre droite, passer à travers les Blocs (secteur Femmes). Sur votre gauche se trouve l'escalier pour le Mt-Condor. (massif du Mt-Condor et l'Aiguille).

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 45.945599, -74.529179

summary

Large wall(for the Laurentians), short approach, south-facing.

description

(45.946452, -74.533467)

The massif of the Weir is one of the most impressive in the Laurentians. It has long, technical routes and a short approach.

Height is about 90-100m, and unlike most other cliffs of this size in the area, mostly vertical to overhanging.

The cliff is to the east of the road, north of the satellite dishes.

Guidebooks: There is a printed guidebook available (https://escaladeweir.ca/) and a rakkup https://rakkup.com/guidebooks/quebec-mont-larose-weir-rock-climbing/

access issues

The land is owned by Tata Communications, please do nothing that might cause them to remove permission to climb.

From april 1st to august 1st, some setors are be closed for peregrine falcons. These typically include all the center walls, ranging from Mur du Capitaine to Adagio, but it might change depending on the falcons' nest. Watch out for more info at the trail start.

The climbing is managed/insured by the FQME (http://www.fqme.qc.ca), you should be a member to climb here.

approach

Hiking trails should be obvious. Watch out for poison ivy!

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

West-most and west-facing wall.

approach

Follow the main trail that leaves on the left side of the parking lot by the picnic table.

Look for the first main left branch, marked by a sign for "Mur de L'Ouest". After a few minutes, the cliff will appear on your right, with the base approached in three sections.

descent notes

Generally lower off anchors or rappel.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

An east-facing wall.

approach

Take the first left branch, then keep right at the Y.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.945933, -74.530242

description

South-facing wall right of the Mur du Capitaine

approach

As per Mur du Capitaine, but continue right (east) along the base.

description

South-facing wall left of the descent gully from Adagio.

approach

Approach from either side -- but beware of poison ivy (herbe a puce) on the approach.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

A south-west facing wall left of the prominent top-to-bottom corner that is one of the most visible features on the main cliff area.

approach

Start up the hiking trail at the left end of the parking area, then follow the signs for this sector.

descent notes

At the top, hike climbers left up for a bit, then descend keeping the cliff to the right down obvious trails and an easy (generally 2nd class) descent gully.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 45.944732, -74.527666

description

The main, huge, south-facing wall that is most visible, and best documented, at the Weir.

approach

Start up the hiking trail at the left end of the parking area, then follow the signs for this sector.

Follow these trails until you cross a stream and head up again towards the cliff where there is a huge corner between the large, south-facing part of the cliff and a more south-west facing section. This is the large steep cliff facing directly towards you. The large, obvious, top-bottom right-leaning crack system is Black and White.

descent notes

Depending on how far along the cliff, either descend the gully beside Adagio, or hike climbers right to the end of the cliff and descent that way.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.258527, -74.669185

summary

Laurentides' most beautiful cracks on a slab. Remote and quiet.

description

Opened around 2018, a 40-45m multi-pitch wall with four routes only accessible from the top. Great for top rope with top belaying. The bottom of the area can be only access by bushwalking from a trail, and bushwalking is forbidden in the area. Apparently not part of FQME, so you're on you're own. Crag is remote and rarely visited. Cellular signal is good on top of the crag.

access issues

The northern part of the previous Montagne Verte Loop, after the crag, seems now to be a private property with forbidden access. Fortunately, entering private property is not required to access the crag. You will however have to walk past a "Stay on trails" sign and follow the older path towards the north. There are no signs stating that climbing is forbidden at this place (2023).

approach

To access the area, you must follow the Montagne Verte loop and use the crest trail which is at the east of the return trail. Expect a 20-30 min walk from the parking. From the parking, head east and stick east for the crest loop at the first crossing about 100m from the parking. Walk north on the trail until it turns west to the left and you encounter a "Stay in trails" sign. Instead of going west keep going to the north for 20 m past the sign, and look for pink ribbons placed on trees along the way. This will take you to the top of the crag in about five minutes. Having a phone with the GPS coordinates entered is very helpful. A proper app/Garmin with hiking trails also simplifies the approach.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.267795, -74.688257

summary

Up to 4 pitches, sport or trad, finger to offwidth cracks, slab, crimps, flakes, divots and scenic belaying ledges.

description

A large cliff with a lot of sport routes, generally closely bolted, and often with bolted cracks.

Routes have a two-bolt anchor (unless indicated), and all pitch lengths are for a 60m rope, unless indicated. Where longer, there will be a way to rappel off with a 60m rope.

The topo information on here is incomplete, not all routes are listed, and names may be descriptive rather than correct.

There is evidence (2016) of ongoing development or potential for it -- anchors above uncleaned cracks, etc.

access issues

The site and access are on public land. As of June 21, 2022, parking has been banned on all streets surrounding Lac Gervais. The only available parking is the Montagne Verte parking.

https://municipalite.labelle.qc.ca/images/documents/reglements/R%C3%A8glement_2022-358_-_Stationnement.pdf

approach

Park at the Montagne Verte parking lot and walk North on Chemin du Lac Baptiste for 1.5km and turn left on Chemin du lac Gervais. Walk for another 1.2km until you reach a large pullout (used for emergency vehicles to turn around) on the left. The trail is at the back of this "pullout".

Follow the orange ribbons, do not miss the second tape at 30m. Where you turn right the track is clear enough and rises quickly. 10 minutes walk before you get to the wall.

The track is well beaten now, so you can't get lost. Be careful at the steep section, the ground is deteriorated and some fairly large rocks tend to fall.

where to stay

No camping on site. You can camp at Montagne d'Argent.

ethic

As the site is adjacent to Lake Gervais, sound carries away from the walls. The lakeside owners do not appreciate the presence of all climbers, so be discreet.

history

The wall of Lake Gervais was developed by Gaetan Castilloux in 2010. Some routes were bolted in 2013.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.267339, -74.688465

summary

Higher, left most sector with plenty of trad routes and and a few sport

approach

Follow the flagged trail at far left up to a ledge that gives acess to the start of Om.

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.267556, -74.688509

description

There is a little sector if you climb through the forest about 10m after the third anchor of "pur plaisir". There might be another access???

There are multiple bolted cracks but I haven't found much information.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.267508, -74.688192

description

Rather overbolted multipitch section of the crag with some classic cracks that can be climbed traditionally. Bottom section is good for cragging with moderate slab and face routes.

approach

This area is located at the very left end of the crag.

In some cases, this is pick-and-choose your multi-pitch. There are sometimes multiple choices, with short traverses, to choose different or alternate 2nd or 3rd pitches for the various climbs.

descent notes

Rap on a 60m rope.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.267804, -74.688014

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.268160, -74.687922

description

This is the first area you see coming off from the approach (far right of the cliff).

description

95 Boul des Entreprises Suite 100

Boisbriand

Quebec J7G 2T1 Canada

http://amusementactiondirecte.com/

call: (450) 688-0515

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

summary

La priorité va au groupe d'école, domaine privé, payer à l'avance les frais d'accès et remplir le formulaire de décharge.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.344445, -74.659131

summary

A small crag with pleasant easy to low-moderate routes.

description

A small (20m), granite(ish) slab with a variety of features. The climbing tends more technical than physical.

The base is flat and well-shaded by trees, and the crag faces east, giving it shade much of the day. And, with the easy routes, and short approach, would make it a good crag to bring kids to.

The top of the cliff can be accessed for setting top-ropes by following a trail up the left side of the cliff.

Laurentides Guide

Table of contents

1. Laurentides 1,941 routes in Region

1.1. Lac Boisseau 35 routes in Crag

1.1.1. Far left 2 routes in Sector

1.1.2. Three Sister's 9 routes in Sector

1.1.3. Main Wall 11 routes in Sector

1.1.4. The Roof 4 routes in Sector

1.1.5. Right of the roof 4 routes in Sector

1.1.6. Upper Tiers 5 routes in Sector

1.1.7. Dive Rock 0 routes in Sector

1.2. Montagne d'Argent 268 routes in Crag

1.2.1. Supercrackspot 9 routes in Cliff

1.2.2. Paroi du Lac 10 routes in Cliff

1.2.3. Vertigineux 5 routes in Cliff

1.2.4. Les Mousquetaires 3 routes in Cliff

1.2.5. Antre du Dragon 10 routes in Cliff

1.2.6. Dame Nature 7 routes in Cliff

1.2.7. Grand Canyon 53 routes in Cliff

1.2.8. Pit Stop 4 routes in Cliff

1.2.9. La Vallée Perdue 12 routes in Cliff

1.2.10. Porc-épic 1 route in Cliff

1.2.11. Les autres bières 9 routes in Crag

1.2.12. La Petite Bière 4 routes in Cliff

1.2.13. La Boite a Surprise 7 routes in Cliff

1.2.14. Le sauna 5 routes in Cliff

1.2.15. Arche de Noway 6 routes in Cliff

1.2.16. Chateau de Pierre 5 routes in Cliff

1.2.17. M & M 15 routes in Cliff

1.2.18. Controverse 12 routes in Cliff

1.2.19. Hippocampe 13 routes in Cliff

1.2.20. Paroi Oblique 8 routes in Cliff

1.2.21. L'Amphitheatre 8 routes in Cliff

1.2.22. Le fou 31 routes in Cliff

1.2.23. La Petite Folie 15 routes in Cliff

1.2.24. Petit Canyon 10 routes in Cliff

1.2.25. Tresors caches 6 routes in Cliff

1.3. Kanata (Tremblant) 82 routes in Crag

1.3.1. Secteur Dallecoolique 15 routes in Sector

1.3.2. Secteur Tomahawk 7 routes in Sector

1.3.3. Secteur Pacman 12 routes in Sector

1.3.4. Secteur Quintessence 7 routes in Sector

1.3.5. Secteur Skahnetati 2 routes in Sector

1.3.6. Bloc Kanata gauche 7 routes in Sector

1.3.7. Boulder near parking 32 routes in Sector

1.4. Mont Baldy 62 routes in Crag

Access: Re-opened ... Climb on!

1.4.1. Devers des anges 7 routes in Sector

1.4.2. Secteur Stéphanatique 11 routes in Sector

1.4.3. Secteur Grenouillage 11 routes in Sector

1.4.4. Secteur Dalle 5 routes in Sector

1.4.5. Secteur Petit Mur 9 routes in Sector

1.4.6. Mur Principal 14 routes in Sector

1.4.7. Petit Baldy 5 routes in Sector

1.5. Morin-Heights 190 routes in Crag

1.5.1. Parc Balser Bouldering 31 routes in Field

Access: Private property !?!