Routes in Laurentides for selected grade

Second route from the left, situated in the center of the sector. The guidebook shows that it shares the anchor with Bruno, it would be more natural to continue straight into the finish of Parcours d'ange. Still, the route lacks of its own character and melts into its neighbours.

3rd route from the left, situated in the center of the sector.

Slightly right-sloping crack up the face near the left end of the cliff.

At the base, there was a waist-height separated flake, which is now laying flat on the ground. This has made the start far harder than it was -- probably 5.9+ or so.

Up past two bolts to a thin crack (gear section -- small gear needed, don't bother hauling anything big up this climb). Follow the crack upwards and right for a bit, to two more bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

First set of bolts, just to the left the boulder pile with the projecting finger, and to the right of the huge, right-pointing flake/crack that is "Boris".

Climb the series of flakes up the bolt line that is to the left of the obvious shallow dihedral up the center of the wall.

There is an obvious shallow groove in the center of the cliff, with three bolts leading up to it. Traverse in to the first bolt from the left, then up the bolted section to the crack (small gear) following it up then right to the shared anchor with "La Gaillarde".

While listed as a 40m climb in the guide, and it can be climbed as such, there is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the interesting climbing at about 28m. The crack continues from there, but it is very dirty, mossy, and treed.

A variant finish for Titanicomanie which makes the route sport the whole way.

The bolt line to the left of the obvious block of rock coming out of the wall.

Head up on vertical rock for the first bolts, then onto an upward-right slanting ramp. After leaving the ramp the climb finishes on slab.

High anchor at top is about a 32m lower.

It may be possible to step right to the anchor for Crocodile and lower-off with a 60m. (From the top anchor, a 60m rope and rope stretch may get you to the ground, depending on amount of rope stretch.)

Climb leftwards up blocky rock to a steep left-angling widish crack. Pull through, then finish with the usual Grand Canyon thin moves at the top (bolts).

While listed in the guide as "mixte" (mixed, suggesting that gear is needed in some parts, but bolts are used in others), this really climbs as a sport climb. There is no point on the lead where you need to place gear.

This climb is above the lower (right) end of the main Grand Canyon wall.

From the bottom of the canyon, hike along the small trail rightwards, until it doubles-back (with fixed rope) up some 3rd class slab, as you would if you were going to set top-ropes for the main Grand Canyon walls. As you finish the roped slab, and come out near the top of the first climbs, look right (down into canyon is left) and you will see a bolted anchor, and bolts heading up from there. This is where the climb starts.

1. 5.8 (32m) Thin slab past the first couple bolts, then straight-forward climbing to an anchor on a ledge.

2. 5.8+ (25m) Traverse left along the edge to an obvious right facing corner/crack, up this over a small roof, as the crack widens to off-width to anchors up top.

Enjoy the view.

Descent: rappel the route, but if rappelling on a 60m rope, use the anchors directly below the crack of the 2nd pitch, rather then the anchors used during the ascent (climber's right of the crack/corner). Else, you may run out of rope getting to the base.

Climb thin slab to the right side of the roof, traverse a bit, pull the roof, then traverse left above the roof, before heading up again to the anchors.

If hard moves on opening slab are avoided, probably goes around 5.9+; not sure how hard opening slab is if climbed on the bolt line.

Bolted line about 10 m right of La Gardienne. Climb the face to the thin upward-right travelling crack. Balancy slab finish to the top (2 bolts for anchor)

Right most of the main wall, start at the bottom of the pyramid with 4 bolts then restart in the vertical crack filled with black cubic crystals that extends into a slab where you stay left of the bolts because right is to easy. Athletic, nice ambiance.

Bolt line about 4m right of Arche de Norway, curves to the right around a flake, then curves back leftwards to bolts.

At the top end of the fou, look for the flake bolted to the wall.

This is the obvious left-leaning ramp with a crack running up the right-side of the crack. It protects very well.

Starts in a low chimney that narrows as it leans up and leftwards, then pulls up onto the slab to the right of the chimney.

Bolts: 8, 6

The first pitch of Lollypops is often climbed as an independent climb.

The wide crack at the top of the cliff. An alternate finish for "Le centenaire" or "Lollypops".

If you skip the final bolts to belay off a tree, you can go about 7 meters climbers left to another set of rap bolts. You can do a full rap to the ground with 2x60m.

Start just below the obvious roof formation and follow the right-leaning crack to it. Go around to the right and keep following the crack to a tree. Since there isn't a dedicated anchor for this route (or any bolts), you may stop and build an anchor on the big pine tree. Another option would be to top off at the permanent safety line and hike off.

Climb in the dihedral (not visible on photograph), up through the overhang, staying right of the overhang, then after topping, left to anchors.

La voie se trouve sur une section de paroi au dessus de Déclic. Pour s'y rendre, allez vers la gauche et juste après Déclic, il y à un gully genre 5.0 avec une corde fixe. La voie est à environ 100 mètres sur la droite en haut du gully.

Also belays from the spruce tree on the big block.

Dirty wide crack. Big gear, or top-rope. Is it a route if it has an anchor at the top?

Suivre l'arrête de gauche diagonalement vers la droit et topout

À gauche vers une fissure à doigts sous une vire avec un gros pin. La troisième longueur en 5.5 n'est pas très belle.

This is the longest moderate SPORT route on good rock, closest to Montreal.

P1 18m Climb the route " Accès à la dalle" 5.8 A0 (or 5.10a if you are over 5'11)

P2 25m or 15m; scrable 10m with 2 glue-ins to a glue-ins belay at the ledge at 2:00 o'clock 5.3 or continue to a belay 10 m up on a rock ledge 5.9 .

P3 the candy: About 30m of slab with sustained sections 5.9

From the station on topof P3 rap down in a straight line. 30 m , 30m, 20m to the ground.

Protection All sport. 13 quickdraws 2 ropes recommended. Minimum 1 rope of 60 m

Climb P1 " Voie d'acces à la dalle". P2 trad climb right to the cypress (5.3 16m) to a bolted belay with rings. P3 5.9 48m straight up over the flake to the 3 ring bolts belay.

Superbe voie sur la face blanche au début du secteur de Grenouillage.

Suivez une série de fissures horizontales qui se protègent bien en vous dirigeant vers une fissure à doigts dans le haut.

La dalle, ligne de droite. Très jolie.

Une nouvelle petite voie de réchauffement. Si elle est mouillé, votre journée de grimpe est officiellement terminé.

Can easy bail left onto easy holds, original goes straight through bulged and deserves 5.10a rating, if no mantel was done consider 5.9 variativion

RH on diag hold LH on other hold go left to reach vertical crack

This is still in process of cleaning (half completed)

Climb small face

Il faut monter sur le dessus du bloc et redescendre jusqu'à un petit plateau. Ensuite on grimpe vers un gros trou dans la roche.

La deuxième longueur est entièrement sportive.

Sortie sale mais facile.

Third bolt line leftwards from the obvious corner with the thin crack in the back in the upper part.

2nd bolt line left of the corner.

The left side of the deep chimney/gulley/chasm. Start with some stemming, then pull onto the left wall.

Now bolted for sport.

"The Chasm"

Almost a sport route -- but a couple run-out sections where gear would be really nice to supplement the bolts.

Not clear where to finish after last bolt-- no anchor directly above it... either left towards the anchor for "L'entre Deux" or right towards the anchor for "L'Abeille".

Climb the corner with the thin crack in the back (small gear) until the crack runs out, then follow 4 bolts directly up to the anchors.

Départ assis à la grosse rampe du centre.

Départ debout, grimper le dièdre.

Départ debout. Grimper la fissure.